andrethx Posted October 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 had a bit of time this afternoon so i changed out the non-matching vent window. rabin, you were totally wrong -- the top bolt is 7mm, not 8mm. seriously, though, your directions were spot-on and it took exactly an hour. the only thing i would add, is that i found it easier to put the replacement glass back in after i also removed out the inner and outer window strips (at the top of the door/bottom of the door window frame). it came out great, the replacement piece is even the same brand as the rest of my glass so it looks original. here's a couple of in-progress pictures: here's that top bolt: and here's the hole that bottom bolt goes into, under the door panel: lastly, here's a comparison shot of the old piece (left/gauche) and the replacement piece (right/droit); andré edit: here's the new piece, installed: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal505 Posted October 4, 2011 Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 Very Naice (borat voice). Andre, to be fully honest, I'm not fully sure anymore..haven't seen my car in over a month.. My dad replaced the rear windsheild to with a NOS Peugeot piece due to a messed up defogger on the old one..and I am sure that it's tinted bronze. However, last summer (and again this summer) my car was vandalized by a 'mysterious' neighbor who slashed the tires several times, and scratched the front windshield up so that when it gets wet, I can't see jack ... think it's repairable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted October 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 don't know how far gone your rear window defrost system was, glad you got it taken care of. for future reference, there are companies that sell kits to repair rear window defrost systems. wrt to your front windshield, there are materials you can get to "refinish" your windshield, and i've read about various techniques in the detailing forums, but overall it doesn't sound good. It seems like only the most minimal scratches can be buffed out...if you try to buff out anything much worse, you run the risk of making the problem worse. this bums me out b/c i have a bit of scratching on my front windshield, looks like a PO ran the windshield wipers after the rubber dried up & fell off... andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal505 Posted October 5, 2011 Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 Great to know Andre. We had repaired the defroster on both the 505 and the 240 before, using a DIY kit supplied from ipd. However, this one was VERY far gone.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted October 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 more new parts; got this bit from the UK my roof panel console is in OK condition, except for the little spring clips that hold the sun visors in place...they are worn out & the visors fall out of them frequently. so i got a NOS console: andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N9TE Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 eBay or do you have someone on the ground there that does parts sourcing? I have relatives in France and I've wondered about sending them out with a "shopping list" before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted October 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 UK ebay. wrt to shopping on the foreign ebay sites, i have discovered that most merchants are willing to ship internationally even if the listing says that they don't...it must be some kind of default setting on ebay. so unless they specifically say they don't ship to the US (which is pretty clear), i have found that it never hurts to ask. when i ask them, i always include my postal (zip) code so that they can include the price for S&H, rather than us having to go back & forth. the guy that sold me this part was pretty funny...he was not inclined to ship to the US initially, but i guess i talked him into it and the transaction went fine. it isn't that he doesn't like americans, it's just that he has had bad experience with stuff getting lost & broken in the past. i wish i had relatives i could sent out for parts, but they would kind of have to have at least a dim awareness of how cars work. i am the closest thing my family has to a person who understands cars. god knows what i'd get if i sent my family out for parts... andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N9TE Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 Ya, I know what you mean. I have a couple of Nieces in Nice. Noooo, just Paris - just thought that would be funny! And they're not petrolheads in the least. Dare I say it, but they might not even know what a Peugeot is. I've bought from matramagic.co.uk without incident. In fact, it was a very frictionless deal. Cool guy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted October 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 so recently, i've been working on my fuel system -- specifically, the area under the left-side rear seat where the inline fuel pump, the accumulator and the fuel filter are. when i disconnected the fuel filter earlier, lots of black stuff and little chunks of rust poured out into the catch basin i had set under the assembly. i have been planning to clean out the fuel rail fairly soon, but now i'm thinking it might not be a bad idea to have the fuel distributor reconditioned*, given how nasty everything leading to it is... here's a shot of the fuel filter, before removal: note the worn out feed line, which is going to be replaced with a new line. i got a few new fuel filters -- my 86 xn6 uses the bosch 71039 -- but they came without the little brass sealing rings. fortunately, i was able to pick up a bunch at a local NAPA parts place (parts numbers for top & bottom seal rings are NAPA-1242 and NAPA-1243). as before, i cleaned up the parts as best i could with a wire brush wheel. they were coated with (what looked like) a thick layer of road tar. here's a before & after of the fuel filter bracket: i found a reputable plater down in the south bay area (about 30 minutes from my house). so this morning i brought a few pieces (including the fuel filter strap, the in-tank fuel pump frame and some of the fuel system banjo bolts) to them to find out what they could do for me. they told me that most people plating old car parts use cadmium now, it's more durable than the zinc plating and only about 20% more expensive. to get a small box of parts dipped (cleaned) and plated in yellow/gold cad would be about US$100 and take two or three days, though they told me if the box contained a lot of bolts, it'd be a bit extra because of the additional labor involved. so now i'm going to be pulling lots more parts from the car and getting a batch of stuff ready for the platers. not too far away was an auto paint supply house, so i stopped in to see about some things. my car came without a spare tire, so i got an alloy wheel to match the set on my car (thanks again, jeff!)...i'm going to try stripping the paint and polishing the wheel that's going to serve as my spare. if i don't like the look, i can sent it out to get refinished by a pro. as it turns out, CA recently ratcheted up its emissions laws for paint products, so lots of good paint removers are no longer available here. the paint guy and i settled on a paint remover designed for use on aluminum-bodied airplanes. i also picked up a rubber wheel to remove the pinstripe and glue residue on my car (from the chrome door-edge guards that were on the car when i got it). "it's 30% larger now," the guy told me. while i was there, i also priced out the paint i'm going to need to respray my car. for the whole two-stage system, the paint (base and clearcoat) is going to run about US$280. i had the guy print out the paint label for me for glacier blue metallic (1477): more to come. andré *edit: here is a link to a really nice writeup by a 928 guy on his CIS fuel distributor rebuild...my xn6 has a similar fuel distributor (albeit with provision for only four cylinders!). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted October 27, 2011 Report Share Posted October 27, 2011 Getting the wheel blasted, or finding a "do it yourself" blasting shop would be highly recommended. Chemical stripping a wheel sounds like a lot of work. Here in Regina you can usually get a set of wheels blasted for $100 - 140. EZBlast self serve place charges $20/wheel if you do it yourself. Once it's bare - you'll have more than enough work for you to polish it out! Come to think of it - I'd take the box of parts you want to get plated there as well to bead blast. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peugeottogo Posted October 28, 2011 Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 Your welcome on the spare wheel Andre! I still haven't done anything with the wheels you brought up to me back in July. I can tell you I picked up 4 more in San Jose on a business trip in the bay area a couple of weeks ago. What a nut case I am for spares Now back to our regular posted topic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryancohnracing Posted October 28, 2011 Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 Random notes on things in this thread: The Smart Erasure work so well you will be shocked! 3M makes or made them for awhile (could not find them last time I looked in the spring) and we stripped a 40 ft gooseneck trailer of stripes, decals, lettering from the previous owner (race team logos, name, sponsor, etc etc) in a matter of hours rather than days. Highly reccomended and now I know what brand to buy! Try toothpaste on your windshield to remove scratches. British cars used to have this problem and we'd fix the windshields with toothpaste and elbow grease. I assume one could get brave and try a rechargeable variable speed drill and buffing pad. It worked good enough to keep from having to replace many windshields. No, I do not recall what brand or flavor toothpaste! I love cad plating! I'm also surprised you found someone to do it in Cali. The chemicals are highly toxic and nasty. I found someone in Topeka to do a bunch of nickel on my last race car and it was worth every penny, matched perfectly. Cad for brackets, bolts, etc just look right to me. Looking good Andre! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick@nite Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 I Chemically striped my BBS RM's with gasket remover, little did I know they also were dipped in a rubber protective coating that would have needed to be powercoated. I only wanted to do the cheap and easy way or thought it was to paint... So I started sanding & found out it was awful to sand off the coating... I had about 120 hours with disassemble, striping+ sanding, painting and also polishing the lips then reassemble... I would bead blast for the easy way out... Though the Pug wheels should be pretty straight forward on striping and do not have a protective coating underneath the paint.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 One thing to note about hand sanding wheels is that it's easy to round the edges of the wheel design, so it's pretty easy to change the design. Often it's uneven as well - then it looks like it was hand sanded! My buddy owns a wheel refinishing shop - all their wheels are glass beaded, then machined, then polished. for a wheel like ours - sanding / polishing in between the spokes would be a nightmare. If I was to do it - I'd bead blast them, paint them to get all the internal crevices, then machine the flats and polish just the flat areas. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted October 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2011 thanks for the advice, all. ultimately, taking my wheel to a wheel refinishing shop and having them stripped & repainted would certainly yield a good result. i'm going to be chemically stripping the wheel i have then polishing it with my porter cable, so it might be time consuming but not physically demanding. and it it doesn't turn out well, i'll take it to a pro. i've seen a few polished alloys recently and i really like the look, so we'll see how it goes. rabin, as best i can tell, there are no self-service media blasting places around here...maybe it's a liability insurance issue? i don't need to clean the parts i have as the platers do that as part of the service. long term, though, i may build or buy a media blasting cabinet, since i enjoy working on old cars and can see myself doing this from here on out. also i need to take a class in welding. so my work on the fuel system continues. had some projects around the house so i only got a bit of time later this afternoon to work on the car. i found a box similar in size to the one they showed me at the platers' shop the other day and have started to put stuff in it, beginning with the parts i took to show them the other day (the fuel filter strap, the in-tank fuel pump frame and some of the fuel system banjo bolts). i removed the fuel pump/accumulator assembly and started to disassemble it. everything was filthy, of course. the most fun surprise was the fuel accumulator -- one of the lines going out of it that connected to a hard line junction had no hose clip securing it...there was part of a hose clip, apparently the clip had corroded and most of it fell off at some point (the area in the yellow circle). i was able to pop the line off of the junction with a firm tug. after i get the fuel system in good shape, i'm going to give the braking system a good going-over, who knows what i'll find. here's the assembly removed from the car, have started taking it apart. the strap-support piece is going to the platers -- you can see the surface rust on the underside in the first pic -- along with the metal standoffs that go under the fuel filter strap. i'm also going to remove the other strap-support piece to get it plated -- it's the U-shaped bracket that attaches the accumulator/pump assembly to the underside of the car, you can see it in the upper left of the second picture (kinda blurry, sorry). will likely replace the fuel pump and accumulator. since the platers i'm using are not crazy about plating bolts, i just might replace those altogether. i am already putting an order together with mcmaster-carr for replacement seat track bolts (some broke when i took the seats out), assorted nuts under the car (wildly mismatched) and some things i need for projects around the house. i've also bought a used fuel distributor. i've done a bit more research on fuel distributors since my last post, and i've learned that 1) they can clog easily when you have crap in your fuel system, and 2) rebuilding them is a task best left to experienced hands since it's easy to screw it up in ways that are not immediately apparent. i'm going to have the "new" one tested and rebuilt if necessary; once it's installed i'll have the old one rebuilt so i'll have a spare. more to come. andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted November 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 a few quick updates: continuing to go through the fuel system. got a rebuilt fuel distributor, next step is to get it checked out & tested. i got a good deal on it, an "almost too good to be true" deal, is why i'm being so cautious with this. once i'm sure it's good to go, i'll install it & get the old one rebuilt to keep as a spare. here are a couple of pics of the "new" unit: spent a little time cleaning the glue residue from the bodyside molding. as with most 505s, the chrome strip on my molding was AFU so i pulled it out of the molding & now i'm removing the whitish hazy glue residue that's left behind. i'm utilizing fernando's armor-all cleaner & rag method, with a soft-bristle toothbrush thrown in for good measure. comes up nice but is extremely slow going. i do a bit of it at a time, about 1-2 beer's worth. before: after: lastly, did a bit of chemical stripping on my extra alloy wheel. here are some in-progress shots: and here's a shot of my work so far: still not sure how far i want to take this. according to the wheel whores guys, next step is to sand with 120 then 220, then move to wet sanding with 400/600/800/1000/1500/2000. not sure if i feel like doing all that, the whole time i was using the stripper, i kept thinking of all of the other things i'd rather have been doing. so we'll see. by the way, i'm using the spray-stripper shown a couple of posts ago. to anyone thinking of using this, be sure your arms and legs are covered as you don't want to get any of this paint stripper on your skin. ask me how i know... andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted November 3, 2011 Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 Quick tip for removing the schrader valve is to just slice the end off the inside of the rim and it just pulls out. I used some nice metal ones that bolt into the hole and they look pretty spiffy on the BMW wheels I have for the 505. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted November 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 brought the coil springs & sway bars to the blasters today; should take about a week. also found the guy who's going to do my powdercoating, will be getting the springs done in red. since i was out that way, i stopped out at ukit's. he apparently checks out this forum from time to time, said he skipped the LA french & italian car show this year for the first time in many years (because of the rain) but that he enjoyed my pics. we talked about peugeots, peugeot people & parts...i'll be getting some parts from him in the next week or so. andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted November 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 got the coil springs and sway bars back from the blasters today; they were actually ready yesterday, but i got busy and didn't have time go pick them up (the sandblasters i used are in the butt-end of nowhere). cost was US$30. as a reminder, here's what they looked like before: and here's the after: next is powdercoating. andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohms Posted November 23, 2011 Report Share Posted November 23, 2011 youre really spoiling your 505, you know that...haha got the coil springs and sway bars back from the blasters today; they were actually ready yesterday, but i got busy and didn't have time go pick them up (the sandblasters i used are in the butt-end of nowhere). cost was US$30. as a reminder, here's what they looked like before: and here's the after: next is powdercoating. andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted November 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2011 absolutely, omar. like a lot of 505s out there, mine has suffered from years of deferred maintenance, so many of the things i'm doing are long overdue. i'm also enjoying this tremendously... andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryancohnracing Posted November 26, 2011 Report Share Posted November 26, 2011 Hey, those parts look pretty damn nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d00zer Posted November 26, 2011 Report Share Posted November 26, 2011 The parts gonna be better than new Keep up the good work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted November 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2011 thanks for the encouragement. it makes me want to spend more time working on my car, but i haven't had as much time as i would like to spend on it lately... these suspension parts came from bryan, btw...thanks again... andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted December 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2011 just got a pic from the guy powdercoating my springs, they'll be done tomorrow: also found some machine shop classes not too far from my house. also planning to sign up for a welding class at a nearby community college... andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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