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  1. Last week
  2. Coming soon: a bilingual online Register for all the Canadian Peugeot VINs I've managed to get so far (3900), with encouragement of owner uploading capability to grow the list. Stay tuned..... Peugeot-Canada.ca will be the URL. Prochainement, une site de recensement pour toutes les Peugeot Canadiennes que j'ai trouvé depuis 2009, (3900) avec possibilité d'encourager la soumission par les proprios de leurs voitures pour faire agrandir la liste. A suivre...Peugeot-Canada.ca serait l'URL. The site at this moment is showing all of the worldwide 404 data but this will be shifting to only Canadian Peugeot data of all models of car in the coming months. La site au moment est une copie de la recensement global des 404, mais dans quelques semaines ce serait pour Peugeot Canadiennes toutes les modèles de voiture.
  3. Earlier
  4. Test fitting roof rails and first night drive since re-assembly...
  5. Bearing shells arrived from our friend John Waller in England: Should resume engine assembly Monday.....
  6. Hey what do you guys use for a good performance tire these days? Stuff like Bridgestone Potenzas and Michelin Pilots are discontinued in this size unfortunately...
  7. Door cards installed. They did a really nice job blending the paint in the jambs as well. They also re-sprayed the bottom chip guard. Very pleased...
  8. Started cleaning the car both inside and out, to prepare for the reinstallation of the door cards, speakers, trimwork, etc. Coming together nicely so far...
  9. Ok, got the SW back from paint, very pleased with it, they did great work. Going to get everything cleaned up again and then re-assemble this week. After that, pulling the wheels off for a deep clean of them and the wheel wells, and then this one is pretty much done (or as done as any 34 year old car can be...).
  10. Well I ended up having to cit a slot in the bearing and then chisel it inwards until it basically fell out. It was very messy but finally got it out after hourrrrs of hammering. Went ahead and started putting everything together, Flywheel -> Torque tube is in and the rear sub frame is dropped back in place. Waiting for some differential mounts and seals to arrive before I put that in. In the meantime I have been cleaning up the pedal assembly. I decided to swap in a manual one instead of drilling a hole, it was very rusty so I sanded and resprayed... I used my balcony to hang it from to paint lol. Car will be ready for a test drive before I know it.
  11. Progress at the body shop is well underway, these guys do great work, hard to tell there was ever any rust...
  12. Love all the pictures! I’ve always had good luck with heavy grease in the pilot bearing hole, and then used a tight fitting socket, with extension in through the hex so the end is flat. A very hard first hit with a hammer and it usually pushes the bearing out. It sometimes take refilling with grease a few times, but usually works. Rabin
  13. Got a bit of a longer one for ya Dont worry I know you like pictures so I put some in. Oh boy I got another 505 Turbo. This one is a 1986 with the 4 speed auto.. or was at least. This car actually came from the same guy I bought my blue 89 turbo from. It was stored at a different location so I didnt know about it until he messaged me a few weeks ago. At first I wasn't interested but then he told me it was FREE so I knew I had to get it for parts at least. After 75$ for gas and a rental tow dolly I had what I thought was a rusted out seized engine parts car... but man was I wrong. Once I get it home I had a proper look underneath and to my surprise it had only a bit of surface rust under the trunk. And some other meaningless rust in the front corners. To me any low rust frame/shell is a car worth fixing, so I'm fixing this thing up. Also its the first one I'v seen with a blue dash, which is super refreshing I just love the blue interior. It last ran over 20 years ago but thats pretty much standard for me at this point. I did a couple things before I tried to turn it over. I took the plugs out and dropped some old oil in the cylinders. I Checked the oil it looked like someone just replaced it. No coolant in the radiator which was suspicious at first. I turned the key and it was turning over. I hooked a compression gauge up soon after and it was running on 70-80 psi across all four... At this point it was time to reassemble the missing parts and diagnose it to try and start it. The spark plugs were lose, and there werent any plug wires and the intake up to the manifold was removed. I used a boroscope in the spark plug hole to see if it had rusted badly, but it was just full of spider webs haha. Better spider webs than rust I guess. Things took an interesting turn here... I tried to start it with some gas dumped into the intake before installing all the missing intake pieces, and I must of had the timing 180 off because it blew out a big ass dirt daubers nest.... Yep there was a big ol nest inside the intake manifold itself. So off that came and I put on another one that I cleaned up nicely. And after installing the intake and flipping the ignition 180 it was firing right up . The previous owner mentioned it sat because he bought it from another guy who was trying to fix it (Peugeot Pete was who he called it lol). Pete couldnt get it to idle right and neither could the owner before me. Well I knowing this car inside out found the issue, the auxiliary air device/cold idle valve was stuck and wouldnt open when cold. After tossing a spare on and letting it run for a few minutes it was running great. Now its turn key and starts right away and idles right. Of course I needed to keep an eye on the cooling system, the pipe under the manifold was removed and other various hoses too, but I have plenty of spares and getting it sorted was no issue. The coolant level seems steady now, no coolant in the oil either. The tachometer, oil and coolant temp gauge all work (how in the world is that possible????) Everythings looking good so far. NOW ONTO THE FUN STUFF I have enough automatic turbos. So I'v already removed the manual drivetrain from the other 86 GL turbo as well as removed the automatic drivetrain from the new car. Its actually a simple and not to bad process. There is a bit of wiring to do in order to bypass the neutral safety switch but if you have a manual parts car you just plug in the manual harness and your good to do. For the clutch pedal you either have to drill a hole in the pedal box or swap one in. Those bolts are always a pain so I havnt decided what im doing yet. The only real roadblock in the manual swap has been getting the STUPID pilot race in the crankshaft for the torque converter out. It just wont budge. got any brilliant tricks? I'v tried bread, pry bar, torch, pilot pullers... I think im going to have to cut it somehow. I plan to fit this thing with a danielson spec cam at some point, since the other danielson powered car just isnt performing right hehe. Not sure where I can get another but I will
  14. This same car is still unsold and is now at an asking price of just under $5000. Reasonable.
  15. That's pretty much what I did by using the chassis saver on the insides of the doors, and then the rustoleum on top. As far as drilling holes to squirt in oil or something like that, I don't think it will be necessary, given how clean the car is otherwise, not to mention the use it will see going forward.
  16. Will you get the car rust treated in the cavities as well as a precaution? Definitely does look like it’s in excellent shape and just some maintenance to keep it that way. Rabin
  17. Applied the chassis saver over the last couple days to all areas needing treated, specifically the bottoms and insides of the drivers side doors and the driver's front door sill area. For whatever reason, there were some areas of bubbled paint, but after scraping/grinding it all away, the metal was still solid (no holes). After applying the chassis saver, I then went another step and sprayed a rustoleum inhibitor over the top. I think this should keep the rust away for the rest of my life at least, given the use these cars all see now (nice weather only, and about 500 miles a year)...
  18. Got a set thanks to John Waller in Northumberland, who found me a Glacier AE set over there. Also have a guy in Ontario having a look in his old stock and I'll buy that set as well for future considerations. It's just a question now of when they arrive determining when I can resume work.
  19. Wow this was a very helpful thread for me! I had the exact same problem with error code 4. I just revived a car that had been sitting and the alternator VR is bad, producing over voltage. I likely have a damaged ECU as a result. Very grateful you did all the heavy lifting for me on this. I'll swap in a good alternator and then a spare ECU and see what happens!
  20. Handbuch WHB XD3 XD3T deutsch.pdf HANDBUCH XD3TE.pdf
  21. Was planning to put the bottom end together last weekend but I either misplaced my new mains or didn't order any. Small setback in the scheme of things, so I cleaned the sealing surfaces of other parts in anticipation of the eventual assembly. Powder-coated elements: Timing cover with Kugelfischer injection pump drive wheel visible. This surface was gooped up with Permatex and gasket residue from the 2021 assembly. I did have the rod bearings.....
  22. Oh, and a word about asbestos sealing. The originals contained asbestos. There is a torque for the cylinder head screws. For those without asbestos you need a slightly higher tightening torque. This puts strain on the thread in the head! I avoid this by sealing with asbestos.
  23. Hello, I have a question! Were there taillights with red indicators for a 504 Station in the USA or Canada? I would like to install one of these on my station. If so, is there anyone who would let me have one? Thanks Jens
  24. Hello everyone, I read the whole thread again after months. I would like to post the manual for the XD3TE. The data for choosing the head gasket and its notches are also given there. And a lot of other very interesting things. Jens Handbuch WHB XD3 XD3T deutsch.pdf HANDBUCH XD3TE.pdf
  25. Hello i would like to find a detailed procedure of an Xn6 head gasket replacement. where can I find it? thanks a lot tom
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