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Welcome to the forum! Your best option would be to have the pump rebuilt/resealed since finding a good used pump this old will be very difficult. Here in Canada there are still places rebuilding and tuning these pumps, and while other cars use similar pumps, there are no bolt in replacements. Rabin

Hello, the pump on my peugeot 505 2.5t need replacement, does someone know where can i get these pumps? (preferably - used) or maybe someone has...

Hello, the pump on my peugeot 505 2.5t need replacement, does someone know where can i get these pumps? (preferably - used) or maybe someone has one for sale? Also… are there any other cars/engines that use the same pump? Regards..

The only way to race in Gr.B with a 16v head was to build 200 street cars with it and Citroën didn't have the money for that. It was in the older Gr.2 that you could just add it to the homologation papers, like BMW with the 24v head on the 3.0 CSL. The stock 4TC is simply bored at 0.3mm under, even the special pistons are likely just machined out of regular blanks. That is again the cheapest way to do things, they probably didn't care about the Danielson head because for the race car they could do a lot of work on the regular head, cast a similar looking one or make a Evo head the next year as long as it was still 8v and single cam.

Wasnt the 4TC 16 valve? it not twin cam? Also thats funny you knew it was Youri, yeah its him. The cam in question isnt supposed to be for super high rpms (maybe 7,000 but stock rpms still use it well), at least from what Youri told me. Yes it has insane amounts of overlap compared to stock and danielson cams.

Great info in the BX 4TC homologation papers, but I wasn’t completely sure it was documenting cam specs as there was no English to confirm. My thought was to collect what info I could to provide to the cam grinder and then ask for feedback. The 4TC motor aside from being slightly destroked looked like it used the stock head design. Was also curious if the document had actually specified the intake port lengths? Rabin

I’ve chatted with Youri as well - he’s done a LOT of work with camshaft design for his purposes, but a cam set up for high RPM NA race motor won’t be a great cam for turbo development. I’m no cam expert either, but I do know NA race cams push the overlap way more than a Turbo motor would like. There’s an awful lot of good info to be had, and even the cam grinding shops will likely have the best advice especially since these are low compression stock bottom end engines for the most part. Rabin

So I had actually misspoken, as I believe its more closer to gr.A cam. But its been modified, tweaked and developed by a guy who messes with Murenas. And he asked me sadly to not reveal cam specs, but just know it has alot more lift and duration than stock. So yeah its a NA cam not a turbo cam, which maybe will make it not work well. Im not a big expert on camshaft, yet

Peugeot had the 505 Turbo homologated in Gr.B but they did the bare minimum: https://historicdb.fia.com/sites/default/files/car_attachment/1601078101/homologation_form_number_252_group_b.pdf Are you talking about a BX 4TC cam? https://historicdb.fia.com/sites/default/files/car_attachment/1601077801/homologation_form_number_279_group_b.pdf

Hi Rabin, I‘m looking for a US Special 505. Regards Gerhard

Hi Gerhard, I assume you are looking for one in Europe since your location is Germany, but might be good to add some specifics. I’d add specifics to your title as well as we do have some members that might be able to help out if in Europe. Rabin

Hi, I'm looking for a Peugeot 505 Sedan or Wagon, Diesel or Gasoline in very good original condition. Regards Gerhard

Do you have specs for the group B cam? I didn’t even think of finding specs for that motor. Rabin

Yeah the engine still remains stock. I think im going to skip the traditional danielson cam and go for something more aggressive. That is if I do a cam at all, because I very much like the how this car is now. I think the group B cam is what I was looking at

I tried the site and it was $428usd installed for the closest city in the US, or $268 for just windshield. Good to know if I can’t source one in Canada. And I meant going through the effort & expense of a new windshield. I personally love a new windshield, and the flush install looks great - so kudos to the installer. Is the motor stock on this car? Have you played with any of the Danielson parts? Rabin

Haha, dont give me credit, I had a company do that part lmao. I got it from autoglass.net for both cars. One was 300$ the other was 160$ Heard similar from other folks, so I will give it a try once I know this transmission has stopped leaking

Very nice install on the windshield Jayden! Looks great - Curious how you sourced it? Great progress on the manual swap as well. For your trans not shifting - I’ve had great luck using Redline 75W90NS gear oil. The no slip additive really helps tired synchros work better. Rabin

Well I meant to post about the finished product for the longest time but never got around to it. The manual swap went super well, some wiring from a manual car was needed to allow the reverse lights and starter to work, but I had that available and so it was all plug and play. I welded in my own exhaust (no cat or muffler). As usual with these cars it took a few days of driving to figure out the electrical running issues (Ignition coil, relay connectors etc). After that I was driving the car for a month without any major issue until a Deer attacked the windshield. It took me weeks to find one, which I had to drive 12 hours to get. Now I am fixing a couple leaks it had, the transmission output and diff input seals. You can see in one of the photos the torque tube is just full of gear oil. I gotta say this car has easily become my favorite to drive. Its the most comfortable and the most fun. My only complaint is second gear requires some force to get in.

I'm not sure really where to put this, so figured, the off topic section. Anyone know (in the MA area preferably) any places you can go to donate your cars for demo services or to get crushed in monster truck jams? I'm have like 3 cars that everyone wants to call "junk" and I'm cool with that. Simply trying to watch them get crushed then. Not interested anymore in selling, headaches etc. they are junk..just trying to enjoy watching them get crushed, rather than just give them away to someone that takes "junk" cars when you know there just going to part it out. Junk is junk, I just want to see my junk get crushed that's all. Thanks for any suggestions!

These are the new rims, manufactured by BBS and originally sold as an optional extra for the Volvo V40/S40. The name of the rim is 'Heila,' and they measure 7 x 16" (ET44). Tires are Toyo Proxes TR1, size 205/55 R16. The only modification made is the addition of Peugeot rim caps. I found the rims at a scrapyard, and the price was 2000 SEK (164 EUR / 167 USD) for all four. I have updated the album with some more pictures: Peugeot 505 Turbo 1987 Project 1

Just as well - the exhaust pipe was moved to the side to prevent fumes from getting into the cabin. My sedan had the exit there (but not the cutout) and at one point when the rear panel rubber (new!) was torn, the car filled up with fumes and I had to repair the seal!

No, the bumper had been taken off it...

I don't recall that indentation in the rear bumper, but my sunroof car surely had it... hey, that's clue, I wonder if it shows in the photos I took a couple of years ago?

A bakery owner in Fort Langley bought the car. It's got the low flexibility suspension and tightly wound coils, simplified anti-sway bar on the front, rectangular air vents with "Climatisation" heater control, protuberant rear reflectors, thick body side trim. Rear bumper with exhaust cutout in the central section.....body colour wheels...... The 1963 model I had, 4326224, had ball bearing strut swivels. They were reliable enough - when I replaced the shockers in mine in the eighties the only issue was the lower race was cut into the strut body and I had to do a little work with emery cloth to clean it up. Worked a treat for five years in the salt after that.

Missed one important change... The spring base on the strut, I think it changed about 1962 or 1963 (Euro and Nth America). Previously a spring seat sitting on ball bearings, it went to a broader base on a Torrington bearing which had much better life prospects. Commercials kept the earlier style because they needed more tyre clearance and had smaller diameter springs. This all came about (the whole idea of using a spring base which rotated around the strut - or, really, vice-versa) because of the early uptake of the Macpherson strut. Their initial use on British and French Fords (also German?) had showed a weakness with heavy shaft wear that appears to have been something Peugeot wouldn't tolerate. So the designers went a little overboard to eliminate the problem. I don't know if any other manufacturers ever did this...