Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates

  1. Today
  2. Cleaned the goop off the liners and will have to do it to the block soon. Removed the flywheel from the crank, ordered another set of 0.3 mm oversize bearings from Dean Hunter in case the crank does not actually need a regrind. Monday it goes into Mid-Island Engines and Machine Shop in Duncan, along with a set of 0.5 mm oversized rod bearings (the 0.3 set is en route as of Friday), the 4 rods with pistons attached so Chuck in the shop can check the roundness of the big ends.... It seems that Coachwerks, who restored my bodyshell and recommended Anderson's, is now using the shop my crank's going to. I suppose we both experienced some issues at roughly the same time. Chuck warned me that it could be a while because his main machinist is working intermittently and he may have to do the work himself. It'd be nice to get it back at the end of February.
  3. Good work, hopefully someone makes the most of it!
  4. Greetings speaksgeek from LHD world, I believe I've sold the non microchip black 505 turbo as a whole driveable vehicle to a member here. Our restorers here in the wacky USA still appreciate what a Peugeot 505 is. Thank you for your interest. Keep 'em alive whether left hand drive or right hand drive... Eric
  5. Last week
  6. Not just you Norman! The 8 valve hydraulic shocks and long travel suspension are just amazing! Can’t help with the Flex, except to say I’ve always seen them as the closest thing we got to a domestic wagon in recent memory. Quite like them, and have often found myself looking and the Lincoln MKZ version with the 3.5 Eco boost. Rabin
  7. Is it me, aren’t the peugeot505 suspension spring superior?, they ride so good. I wish I could transfer them to my Ford Flex. I know, I’ve had sw8,s. And 3 505’s and my first one 504. I really enjoyed those cars. Any ideas ? norman drapeau. [email protected]
  8. Hi Rabin, thank you for the information. I'll reach out to Savo!
  9. I thought it was supposed to be 3 bar at idle, and the FPR is boost references which means fuel pressure goes up with boost. You should be able to add pressure to the FPR and see pressure increase with each psi of boost. Stock is just 1:1 ratio so 1 psi boost should add 1 psi fuel pressure. Rabin
  10. Welcome to the forum Tim! Being in California means you’re in the same State as @my3AWDgst (Savo) who’s famous for his 405’s… If anyone knows of one for sale it’ll be him. Rabin
  11. Hello, I am new to the forum from California. I had been a long time gear head, and recently got an itch to get back into Peugeot. If anyone is selling a 405 Mi16 or know someone is selling one please PM me. Greatly appreciated! Tim
  12. If you run the boost signal hose from compressor directly to wastegate you’ll bypass the ecu boost control. But you need to test and verify the wastegate is working with a bicycle air pump or something that can make a controlled 10psi signal. You also need to make sure it holds that pressure. @SRDT - I’ll try to find the details on the Turbo S “overboost” feature. It was in the sales literature of the time as I recall it, but haven’t found any references yet. Rabin
  13. Ah ok. Do you know what I unplug to keep it from overboosting? And I know you'v said 2.5 Bar of fuel pressure at idle, but what about under load - should it just increase the pressure as boost goes up?
  14. I was talking about overboost like in the 405 T16: +20hp for 45s if you floor it and conditions are right. You need to floor it every 45s if you want 220hp instead of 200. I think the 505 has 180hp as standard unless the weather is too hot or you're using low octane fuel.
  15. http://www.canam-peugeot.com/tech/n9_ignition_checks.pdf
  16. Aha! That makes much more sense! It seemed to be blinking in a bit of a pattern but I thought that was just to get your attention haha. Is there a key/table to see what blink sequences to look for?
  17. Awesome! Good to hear it’s running pretty nice! That yellow LED isn’t just knock, it will blink a code, so you need to count the flashes to see what code it’s throwing. Rabin
  18. Ahh ok that makes a lot more sense! The French manual I had found is missing a few key pages here and there, but I think I can get most of the info I need from it and the English one with the different ignition setup. I did the ignition timing - idle speed - TPS setting roulette and seems to have had a positive effect! Swapped back to the new spark plugs, and to some other electronic ignition plug wires I had from another project. Re-cleaned the knock sensor mating faces and torqued it to spec. Anyways, I took it out for a test drive today and it went really well overall! good throttle response, idle stability, AFR, gave it the beans a little and it pulled strong. Wasnt much heat form the hvac so I'll probably have to do a bleed on the coolant. The knock light issue is still there though... Once its warmed up, it flashes pretty consistently so I still need to chase that down somehow. Other than the knock issue, up next is oil changes/ greasing of the driveline components and finally that new power steering pump.
  19. Turns out the handbrake issue was within the piston itself, and not just the spring. Going to be rebuilding another caliper in the middle of this winter snowstorm. I have also bought a fuel pressure gauge to test on all my cars at some point.
  20. Earlier
  21. Jayden’s 89’ has ECU controlled boost, and will do overboost when all conditions are met…. The overboost is what bumper the rated HP to 180HP over previous versions rated at 160HP. Whether all that is still working as designed is a different discussion. Steering shudder: Definitely the cause if one or more are loose! Rabin
  22. Tonights issue is brakes While driving around testing boost I noticed a strong smell of burned brakes. After feeling which wheel had the most heat eminating from it, I found the spring on the rear caliper that is connected to the handbrake mechanism was very stiff and would not self spring back into normal position. This was an easy fix as I have about a dozen spares.
  23. Oh wow yeah I can jiggle the wheel side to side and vertically too, both ball joints and outer tie rods are wiggly. The wastegate might just need to be adjusted, since It does maintain boost and the cutout switch for boost is unplugged. Just a little high on pressure though.
  24. On those early turbo cars the only overboost you can have is with a wastegate that is slow to close. The last models with EZK 200 ignition ECU have boost control but I don't know if they also used it for overboost.
  25. Check the lower ball joints and tires rods (inner and outer) for play. Use a pry bar for lower ball joints to see if there is any up/down play. Over boost should be triggering higher than the ECU’s overboost. Pretty sure normal was 9 psi, and overboost was 12psi. I tried getting a bit more out of the car and stock injectors and the ECU just can’t keep up. If you’re seeing 13psi then you are likely hitting overboost legit - make sure your wastegate is working properly and it holds vacuum. Rabin
  26. The steering wheel shakes pretty badly. I had thought the car had a feature where if conditions were right the car would run higher than 12 PSI of boost for a short time. I just want to disable it to get a proper boost reading. I did another boost reading last night and 13 PSI was what I saw it maintaining it at, but I don't know if it was overboosting.
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...