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Jeeeeealous

Had to get it outside for a few shots, it is starting to look like a real car again...

All tail lights on now, as well as bumper cover and trim. Have to fit the center panel yet, but that's easy. Also got the trunk liners back in. Starting to take shape. Soon...

Really nice work!

I continue working on this car, today i dealt with all the rust on the surfaces. The hood had lots of stone chips, the rear arches has some as well. Then i started doing the body work in the passenger side doors. The door dings got filled and all the clear coat got sanded because it was starting to bubble. I'm using 3 different body fillers depended on the spot. The rocker panel is a real mess i glue couple of studs to try pulling the dents the big dent is going to require welding for sure.

Hi, any advise on a 505 mechanic in northern California preferably east bay?

Ok guys, thanks for this info., going to show it to my mechanic and we will have a look at all this. That's what I love about this forum...

I've done 5 rear beam bearings on a 405 and they are lot more work than modern cars with rubber bushings but once done right with original skf bearings and shafts with grease nipples they outlast the car, one of my old cars that got crashed ended up in a junk yard there they swaped the rear end that was bent in the accident in to a taxi. That taxi drove more than 600 000 km on it i'm not sure if he ever greased it. Every time i've seen his right wheel is crooked where i got hit and fliped.

Hello everyone! I've found some time to get back to my 505 to address some of the things that are still giving me issues. I've got the FSM but, for removing the cluster it just says "remove cluster". I need to get it out to address electrical issues as well as determine why my speedometer isn't working. I assume there's some sort of tension clips? Thanks so much for any insight!

Once bad geometry is evident in driving behaviour, it's too late, the rear beam will have been scored and will need replacement. It's an absolute must to do this job pre-emptively. The "seals" on the inside of the trailing arm where it meets the beam do absolutely nothing to keep dirt, water and salt out of the bearings and I guarantee they will be rusting right now. Maybe not quite turning to powder. Even rusty roller bearings damages the beam. If not, one day you will be making a low speed turn and the car will suddenly oversteer at an impossibly low speed. Or if you're unlucky, on a freeway cloverleaf....eventually the trailing arms will set up a regular oscillation that shakes the car like hell. Slide hammer may not be powerful enough to dislodge the arms so be prepared to use an air chisel with sacrificial bolts threaded into the torsion bar ends, to be replaced over and over while you get the rusted splines to move one more mm. It's a hell of a job on a car that''s seen winter, but it MUST be done.

Haven't done too deep of a dive, but all I can tell you is the car runs and drives well, and tracks straight as well. Once this cosmetic phase is complete, we will be doing a deeper dive into the mechanicals, including a timing belt, water pump, etc. You might be surprised to hear that the car is very solid underneath, just mostly surface rust in some areas, but no rot or holes anywhere. If there were, we would have addressed when we did all the trunk welding, etc.

Have you inspected the trailing arm bearings? The undercarriage looks very rusty (surface). With the bodyshell rusted out like that, I've no doubt that those are suffering, if not gone completely. I'd recommend a preventative re&re and then installing grease nipples and packing the (large) void with grease. This is - next to the atrocious electrics - the worst thing about the 405. My 405 had no rust perforation at all when it was scrapped, despite living in HARD winter//salted areas for many winters. And despite this, the trailing arm bearings were totally shot at 200,000 km, to the point of no camber, toe or other geometry being stable.

Tons more progress over the last few days. Got the car cleaned up and then undercoated all the areas that were metal patched (plus a sizeable area beyond), including the inner trunk area as well as the wheel wells. Then got all new stainless hardware (with tons of grease for future removal needs) to re-attach the bumper support, plus repair and mount the reverse light housings. Today I ran the wiring loom for the reverse lights and rear side marker lights. Tail lights and center panel next...

does your sump look similar to this? is it 405 or 406?

Peugeot 406 VF38ER Manual gearbox just bought this peugeot recently and on my inspection I noticed the crankcase breather hose probably has been leaking for years without attention - probably the O-ring is bad. The leak is on the far left side and has dripped down onto the coolant pipe which now looks roasted but still together somehow. I will need to clean that up or do a complete coolant pipe replacement if its too brittle. But first find the leak. In the second and 3rd pic you can see the coolant pipe with the oil on it.

Peugeot 406 VF38ER Manual gearbox is this the drain plugs for gearbox & engine? and is there a way to see the gearbox oil level - I cant find any dipstick only the fill hole plug next to the engine. there seems to be a glitchy feeling with the gears esp the reverse gear keeps slipping out once its shifted into gear.

Mike thanks for that, I think they just matched it kind of like they do at hardware stores with a chip/sample, etc. Either way, I’m pleased…

Should be Vallelunga Red P3K8.

The bumper mounts are very different than euro models. Paint looks great, do you know what paint color code that is.

Gentlemen, the car is back home as of yesterday, and I'm very pleased with how it came out. Paint match is great, and it should last a very long time, lots of metal replacement involved here, finished off with waterproof duraglass. I spent the rest of the day cleaning it up and am now preparing for re-assembly, hopefully this coming week...

I continue with the body work, the trunk has a dent that i hammer out, then used 2 layers of body filler to fix, i actually measured the body filler and its less than 0,5 mm. After that i continued with sending what was left of the clear coat on the doors and the roof, i hate body work but if i want it done right i'll have to do it myself.

Hello, is it still for sale? Best regards Gerhard

Looking forward to the results! Hope they mail the paint match as well…. Rabin