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  1. Today
  2. It's a 20°C increment: 90°C (194°F), 110°C (230°F), 130°C (266°F) and 150°C (302°F):
  3. Changing gears a little bit here, let's talk about oil temperature... I know several pages ago I expressed some concern over my oil temp., and the consensus seemed to be that my readings (assuming the gauge is to be believed), were normal. I've also done a lot of reading on engine oil temp. as well, and some interesting findings. From all I've read, oil temp. around 230-260 is supposedly not just normal, but even good. This seems awfully high to me, but that's what I've found. With synthetic oils (I use Mobil 1), you can apparently be well north of 300 degrees. Not even sure engines can handle this? Anyways, let's talk about the markings on the oil temp. gauge specifically with the Peugeot. Starting with the relevant markings, it has a 190 reading, and then 2 blank dashes, and then 300 is the last one. Assuming they are spaced evenly (which they appear to be), those middle dashes would represent ~37 degree increments, so it would go 190, ~227, ~264, and then finally 300. So lately, my car has not only been running at the ~227 dash pretty consistently (seems like before it would be somewhere between the 190, and ~227 dash, usually the middle area, I'd imagine around 210ish), but I've noticed lately it has temporarily gone past the ~227 mark when driving it harder, but not much and not for long, probably topping around 240-250 if I had to guess, and then it settles back on the ~227 mark. I posted a picture below from my drive yesterday. Important to note it has been quite hot and humid these days, mid 80's and high humidity. Using the a/c does not seem to affect this, fyi. Here' are my questions. Is the slight increase in operating temp. concerning to any of you? Is it because of the outside temp. being so high? Do your Mi16's exhibit similar behavior? Anything I can do to bring the temp. down (changing oil type,/viscosity, add oil cooler, etc.), or do I not want to do that? Thanks in advance guys...
  4. Soda blasting, maybe not the best for cleaning but it dissolve in hot water so it's easy to get rid of it on a carb or a throttle body.
  5. Depends how oxidised the aluminium is, i've had good luck cleaning it with gasoline and brass brush. The best way to clean aluminium is with glass blasting, here is a link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4mCmv0jrya4 3:45 to 4:45 they show the process.
  6. If anyone has tips for how to non-destructively clean cast aluminum - specifically, the throttle body, and two parts of the huge intake manifold - I'm all ears. They're a little stained and dirty-looking. It's raw cast aluminum. I suppose silver paint could help but I'm not sure I want to go there. Apart from cleaning, the throttle body needs to be disassembled and cleaned out, just as a precaution. I have new bearings for the throttle plate axle, if needed. I probably want to plate some of the associated hardware as well. But I'm going on holiday for two weeks so not much is going to happen, I expect, but if it does, I'll post it here.
  7. Yesterday
  8. The second Turbo diesel was in much worse state, all the important parts wore in good condition, the injection pump is dry not leaking, the turbo seams good has some shaft play but they are know to last like that. But i could not get the engine to turn over, i lay it on its side and removed the oil pan, oil pump, and looked at the cylinders from there, there was no rust, but they wore some drag marks like overheated marks. I removed the bearing caps and remove the crankshaft, the bearings has some scratches but are still in good shape, the crank is good also. Try to move the pistons, 3 of them moved but number one was stuck good. Because of this i had to take the head off and there was rust and other marks in all the cylinders, i maned go remove all the pistons using a long bar and big hummer, those bores and pistons are junk, i'll have to get bigger pistons if i want to use this block, i have suspicion that this car was junked because of bad compression cause of overheating.
  9. I sent all my bits and pieces left over from my 405S and MI 16 to Joe Popielarczyk in Buffalo a member on this site. He should be getting them soon and will want to get rid of some of the parts as he has an MI 16.
  10. Ok guys, I think we're going to call this car fixed... Just drove the car about 40 miles, ran excellent, no cel at all, and again the cold start was great... Going to continue to drive and monitor everything, but these early results are fantastic... Before I forget, let me use this opportunity to extend my sincere thanks and gratitude to everyone here on this forumthat has helped guide and educate me throughout this process over the last several months. This car was a particular challenge for me for many reasons, mostly due to the lack of parts, people willing to work on it, and just general lack of information out there. Without you guys, this car would not be where it is today. I am so appreciative, and I hope my daughter who will be driven around in this quite a bit learns to love the car as well… Many updates still to come…
  11. The turbo intake valves are not the same. The exhaust valves can be, depending of the year.
  12. I'm glad to hear that joe, what have we learn, on any car after 10 years the fuel injectors need attention. if it's that bad i can't wait to hear your thoughts on the power delivery of the engine, it's shame peugeot never exported the 160hp mi16 in the US the high compression engines are much more lively and free revving.
  13. Some more before of the injector findings, and now installed after...
  14. Ha, what can I say Rabin, you win. I agreed with you then, and probably should have done this sooner, however I was kind of working my way through the fuel system, and the injectors were the last stop on the ride. Took a little longer to get here, but that's ok. The fuel system is now completely new (both fuel pumps, fuel filter, FPR, and now correctly cleaned injectors), and I have no regrets on that end... Again, not going to say we're done, but with how nicely it idled up on the cold start, hard to imagine it isn't. At the very least, it idles wayyyy better. I didn't even realize it until now, since it has only been in that state since I've owned the car... Send me your address for where to send the flowers...
  15. Congrats! Can’t wait to read the report from its next shake down run. If it is fixed - Who wins the diagnosis sweepstakes? I believe I suggested checking injectors on 06/15 and on 06/25 figured injectors 2 & 3 had to be the cause of the fouling plugs. Did I win? Rabin
  16. Well guys, my car finally may be fixed… The new injectors went in this evening, and I fired up the car, and it started in a way that it is never started before in my tenure of ownership. It was very smooth, consistent, none of the lumpiness that I had before, although I never realized how bad it was either since it is all I ever knew. Most telling though, is that after idling for quite a while and getting up to temperature, the CEL never came on at all... It is late now, calling it a night, will report back again tomorrow… Hard to even describe this feeling, but it is exciting to say the least…
  17. Last week
  18. I've heard that broken timing belt can cause stretch head bolts, i've got the feeling the other Td engine will be worse, than engine won't turn over. The first engine looks to have new valves, let's hope the other one has some good parts as well so i can piece something together without spending lots of money. Tomorrow i'll be inspecting it, trying to turn it over.
  19. Totally agree. Hoping you're right. Will report back once reinstalled...
  20. Fuel rail cleanings are - at best - only good for regular maintenance, same with the in tank cleaners. The only proper way to clean them is to do what you're doing now. Once clean they should be able to ensure they've got nice spray patterns, and ideally are matched flow wise as well so that they're all within a certain cc/min. The condition of the injectors, and the fact that 2 & 3 were also the plugs fouling means this looks very promising as the root cause of the issues. My guess was that atomization sucked bad, so at low RPM it wouldn't burn as well which caused the O2 CEL - also way those were the plugs that fouled. Rabin
  21. The cam belt snap, the pistons hits the valves, the head bolts extends a bit before the camshaft is broken... Check the camshaft bearings caps, it's not hard to find some that fits but not all of them do as they are machined with the head.
  22. I needed to clean up the garage so i can start on making the adapter plate for the diesel, also i may need to do some emergency repairs on couple of other cars. After making couple of trips to the dump i dispose of the plastics and insolation. This left me with two engines, gearboxes in the middle of the garage. The first engine N/A has oil in coolant, so i took the cylinder head to see if i have a blown gasket or bad cylinder head. Thankfully the engine looks much better inside, the valves look like new also the pistons look new but they have masks where sometime in the past they had hit the valves, no big deal the fault is the head gasket, i found two spots were they gasket was blown and the head bolts wore pretty loose almost like someone torqued the head and forgot to tighten it by degrees.
  23. Disconnect the battery overnight, and when you fire it up for the first time let it idle up to temp, then drive it and again let it idle in that time check engine will come on as it makes new fuel map, then give it a spirited drive and tell as do you feel the difference. See how it reacts on throttle/ off throttle and do you get small pop in the exhaust when shifting at redline.
  24. Hi Goce, I have not looked into testing the air fuel just yet, want to get through this phase of work first and see where it took me. On my way to pick up the injectors as we speak, they told me that all four had some restrictions with the filters, but they cleaned up well and are flowing very nicely now, so going to clean the head ports really well before reinstalling today and see where we end up…
  25. I've seen better, i've seen worse typical for 29 year old car, ethanol fuels that are now at the gas pumps cause real issues for older cars. Did you found a place to check the air/fuel mixture, dyno places have the equipment and knowledge to do it.
  26. Hey guys, some updates... Went to my mechanic's today to install my new cv/axle boots, but realized we did not have the proper clips. So that will be another day. But not a total loss, as we installed the new fuel pumps (both in tank and outside the tank). This was not needed, but I had already bought them and figured they were the last pieces in the fuel system that I had yet to replace. So that's done... Next up, I wanted to revisit my injectors. The shop that cleaned them, did so with a product through the fuel rail, and while maybe it helped, it still didn't give me a full understanding of the health and operation level of them. So when I got home today, I decided why wait any longer. Off they came, and here are the findings. Cylinders 2 and 3 were pretty gunked up, compared to 1 and 4. See photos... The injectors are at a machine shop that does ultrasonic cleaning and bench testing. They should be done tomorrow, and I'll promptly re-install them. Really thinking the state of these could be behind my on/off cel...causing slight misfires, leaning out the mixture, etc...
  27. Scrap man finally come, loaded the parts car body shell i throw out a lot more spare body panels, they are taking too much room and now days if a have a big enough cash to need body parts i'll probably get another car. Now i need to make couple more runs to the dump to get rid of the plastic and garbage.
  28. I know that and that is why i chose to keep it lightweight, at this point is around 1 ton and if i can keep it at that it will be good with 100 hp and 200 Nm of torque, the transfer case and the slow diff i have are pretty strong. In the mountains around here if you see what those nivas take on daily basis and still keep going i'm not worried about breaking the driveline.
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