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  1. Yesterday
  2. I've been pleased with the ride comfort on my Mi16x4 they are a bit firmer than normal 405, if you want it to be very comfortable, buy shocks for a 405 1.6i 94 year and up, they are much softer, i've had 405 with 500 000 km on the clock and the shocks just start to leak, that one was a Taxi in germany, around here bumpy roads, parking on the sidewalk they last around 2-300 000km. As for the LCA if they are together don't mess with them, i check them by kicking the front tire when parked in neutral with my feet. They should move considerable, anything over 2" with the hardest kick it excessive,
  3. Hi Mike, I should've clarified in my last post, however the subject was also covered very early in my thread, the front shocks are still original Peugeot. I expressed much surprise that after 170,000 miles the original shocks could still be good, but they have great rebound and they are not leaking, so I stuck with your guys suggestion, and I am glad I did so...
  4. Yesterday I got the last batch of plating work back from Victoria. The job was good on what they returned but somehow they managed to lose the crankshaft pulley (I have a spare) and a small clamp for the injection system piping (I likely have a spare and if not it'd be easy to fabricate). Anyway, I have two complete sets of steel fuel lines and both were plated in copper. The fittings are copper so I thought it would be the best way to protect the steel and would help the fittings too. One set was used on a running engine as little as 14 years ago (the car's) and the other from one tha
  5. Peugeot struts? Aftermarket ones are to be avoided if you value the ride comfort.
  6. Took the Mi16 out for about a couple hours this evening, still running great. One thing I think I might want to do is the front LCA bushings. They are the only thing I did not replace when I redid my front end this year (for no particular reason other than looking like they might be annoying to do). While the handling is great, it takes the bumps more harshly than I would think it should. Maybe that's just the way they are. Regardless, extremely pleased with where the car is at. As we roll into the cold season, I intend to drive it as often as possible throughout, so long as the roads are clea
  7. Yeah, all 4 of the 505's I have all doors work, but on the 405 only the Rear left door worked... Fixed front left, and sorta rear right. Trunk also wont open (which is annoying since I kinda need the spare wheel). Hood wouldn't latch at some point either.... haha
  8. Last week
  9. 405 doors are a problem, my locks used to machine gun randomly and in cold weather the latches would freeze and the doors would open but not shut - had to hold it closed until the car warmed up and they thawed.
  10. Update on the 405: Took off the fuel rail, and took injectors out to test the injectors. Injectors all click, but wont spray anything. I tried spraying some carb cleaner and brake cleaner in the injector, but still they wont spray. Called around places near me, may have somebody to clean the injectors for me. Been trying to fix the door, since it would not latch closed, I had it held up with a bungee cord, haha. Got that fixed, so now I am trying to get front right door to open. The rod shown in a picture below wont move, I think something is stuck, same with the outside handle, you cant fu
  11. The inspection pit is taking all of my spare time but it's coming along.
  12. They looks like it but they aren't, the pressure is quite low compared to a diesel injection pump so they are probably more fragile.
  13. Yeah I will be running the car reasonably hard on highway drives, like at 120 km/h up the 8% gradients on the Coquihalla at high sustained RPM.
  14. I should have clarified - I knew the gap was adjusted depending on if it was running Nitrous or Forced Induction / Boost, but didn't realize there were differences between street spec and high performance spec engines with no power adders - But sure enough: For a street engine, multiplying your bore size by 0.004in will give you the top ring gap you are looking for. 004 x 4.00in bore = 0.016 inch ring gap For high performance engines, the multiplier changes to add more clearance, but the math stays the same: Modified or Nitrous Oxide - 0.005in x 4.00in bore = 0.020 inch ri
  15. Likely no ceramic coating. I'll think about it though. Setting ring gap is standard for speed shops and shops that work on sports car engines. Engines worked very hard will need a slightly larger ring gap.
  16. Will you get the exhaust manifold and or stainless header pipe ceramic coated before install? I've never heard of adjusting ring gaps differently on how the motor is used - Did they mention what that difference would be? Rabin
  17. Renault cold chiselled the VIN into the shell under/beside the right front seat on all models. Every Peugeot since WWII has had a cold chiselled number too. So any car without one has been stolen or messed with very illegally. I can tell you from first hand experience that maybe 1 in 25 404C models in France has been renumbered illegally, some very crudely and others a bit better. It is dead easy for anyone to spot because there are other numbers that become incoherent after renumbering. The thieves are not a sophisticated lot.
  18. I dropped these bits and a little more off at Anderson's Precision Engines on Monday. Also, they will set the ring gaps for quick street use (not racing!) and I may also get them to build up at least the bottom end. Sent them the workshop manuals in PDF. They also have the cast iron exhaust manifold and will rectify the plane where it contacts the head and fine tune the stainless steel header pipe which is pretty good but requires a small adjustment to one of the three bolt holes.
  19. I fixed the link. A slide hammer and some ingenuity should work well, but there's lots on line for building DIY cleaning set ups and tools. This one looks like a great way to clean them, but I'd use a syphoning blow gun and some BG44 or Liqui-Moly injector cleaner to blow through until it sprayed nice.
  20. They are high pressure lines so they need a wrench to be taken off maybe two, one to stop the injector from rotating.
  21. Oh ok. Also the link provided didnt take me to a vid/article. Do I need to use the wrench to loosen the hex nut? or does the fuel line come off like a vacuum hose?
  22. You need to undo the fuel lines from the injectors before pulling them off, but you shouldn’t have to pull them from the Fuel distributor. If you pull lines off you should run them into bottles and ensure they all flow fuel and that it’s clean fuel. From memory the injectors aren’t held in with retainers like the Mercedes video - Pull them straight out like the VW article linked after. Rabin
  23. oh, was I supposed to take off the lines from the distributor? Silly me im such a dummy. They rotate easily without wrench
  24. Jay, what progress have you made, did you undo the lines going to them and the retainers, can you rotate them with a wrench?
  25. Yeah I didn't get any of the injectors out, but at least I got a workout trying to... those things are in there REAL good. Thanks for the video, I actually learned a lot from it, and from you guys.
  26. Oops - just watched it and the MB is held in different. They do just pull out but this might be better for removal: https://forums.fourtitude.com/showthread.php?3508551-Awesome-Fuel-Injector-Removal-Tool-for-CIS-and-CIS-E!!!!!! The testing and cleaning should be the same however. Good info and it does sound like the injectors are crap - Especially the one that filled the cylinder with fuel! Rabin
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