All Activity

Thanks!

I spent a little bit of time the other day looking for some of these flare nuts for you, Mike.. The picture tells the story: On the left we have a couple which have been replaced at some time in the past. Whether or not they were supplied as genuine Peugeot spares or not I don't know, but I'd suspect they were. Note that they have the unthreaded nose section and these have been used with a replacement tube made from copper. The next four are from assorted bits I have lying around, all are identical with ⅜" UNF threads and 10mm hexes: the first (going from left to right) is from the line screwed into the flexible hose of a disc brake line, the others next two are from the line between the limiting valve and the left hand wheel cylinder, the other from another rear axle line. The three interlopers to the top right are from a Dodge rear axle, so they have the ⅜" hex as well as the same ⅜" UNF thread as the others. I've come to the conclusion that the best place to source good quality used ones would be from the line which joins the two wheel cylinders inside the front brakes, these would have been protected from most evils and are probably easy to undo. But the only ones of these I have (these days) are on the two cars and aren't for dismantling. I'll shake my old memory banks up to see if I can work out where there might be some that I can access in the shor time between now and when I leave.

Finally got around to working on this one again, turns out it was pretty much the same issue as the first car; Alternator/voltage regulator fried and also fried the ignition ECU as well. This was difficult to diagnose as the coil driver module was also a dud (previous owner had put a new one in that was already dead), but I didnt suspect it for the longest time because it looked brand new. After swapping parts with the good black car, found out the issues. Ordered 3 more times new ignition drivers from rock auto and they were all dead right out of the box. I though I was going crazy drying to diagnose it. My only explanation is that they were probably returned as duds before and I got the bottom of the barrel so to speak. Anyways got it all fixed and running and the car is almost perfect. Only outstanding issue is the auto transmission slips a lot under load. I changed the fluid once now and the stuff that came out was very burnt. Hoping a few more flushes and idling around the driveway will clear things up. Either way the car is now posted for sale!

Has anyone found a source or a substitute rubber surround for the front wind screen?

Anyone in the US still interested in 505's? Located near Greenville, South Carolina, I am the original purchaser of this 1987 V-6 STX with manual 5-Speed. I have kept this vehicle in my warehouse for the last several years, taking it out for short drives every few months. When I last parked the car, it was running perfectly. I let it sit several months and when I went to crank it, apparently the timing tensioner had failed and it bent several valves. Engine work is not in my wheelhouse so I decided to let it go to a new owner with that skill set. It will not run and currently has spark plugs out and valve covers removed. All pistons are moving but no compression is several cylinders. It has 165,000 original miles (by memory, need to confirm), the exterior is close to flawless and the leather and interior is just ok for its age. No rust and has never been in any type of accident, no dents. I have not done much to the interior. The only other issue I am aware of is the clutch slave cylinder needs repair. Everything else is original, including the clutch. This group knows more about values than I so it is up for reasonable offers. I would just like to see it go to a good home! I would also consider keeping it if someone has a working or conversion engine for sale.

I ran into a pretty similar situation a while back with an older vehicle I had — the locks were being stubborn, and no matter what I tried, I just couldn’t get the door to open properly. One of the locks would turn slightly, but nothing would actually unlock. It was super frustrating. I ended up calling a professional locksmith who specialized in car issues, and honestly, they were a lifesaver. They had the right tools and knew exactly how to deal with the problem without damaging anything. If you’re in a similar bind, I’d recommend getting in touch with a trusted expert. You can check out Value Signature Locksmith — they’ve been super helpful and reliable in my experience. They offer a variety of locksmith services and could definitely point you in the right direction.

For anything that isn't a PRV you need another bellhousing. Jeep had a 4.0 L6 bellhousing that should also fit the AMC V8. If you can't find a ZN3J or a Volvo B280 try to get your hands on a 3.0 Eagle Premier engine.

Have my one owner 505 with a PVR V-6 up for sale due to an all of a sudden bent valves from a timing chain tensioner failure. Haven't had much response on selling it with a non running engine so now I am considering a motor swap. Not a new topic but I would appreciate info if there is something that will fit up to my bell housing (5-speed manual) 4 Cylinder is fine, something simple, not looking for performance upgrade, just want it back on the road! Any help is appreciated

https://charm.li/Peugeot/1989/405 L4-1905cc 1.9L DOHC/Repair and Diagnosis/#Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/ Hope this helps! These are much better diagrams than the (next to useless) ones from the Haynes manual - I have a suspicion that they might have come from Peugeot USA's official service literature - if anyone's lucky enough to have a copy to compare them against, I'd be interested to know if that's true.

Hey guys, been way too long since I've had an update here. I've been working on my latest Lotus Esprit project, but it should be wrapping up soon. I have also since picked up another Peugeot 405, details will be shared soon, as there will be some work to be done on it as well...

How many psi resists 84 505 xd2-s 147 turbo diesel engine handle and how many factory psi?

thanks for the advice, hopefully someone might have one, i guess luckily for me the abs system had been removed long ago on this car so that kind of makes things easier.

I had the non ABS V6 (505 GLX) and it also had the open diff as well. I have the same STX V6 now with auto, an similarly has the open diff. Hoping once my daughter is comfortable driving and has her license, I can 5sp swap it. Rabin

I just found out that the V6 existed with and without ABS so maybe they had the regular LSD and not the Torsen.

505’s with ABS got an open diff like he has now. IIRC only the 505 Turbo’s with ABS got the Torsen differential, possibly only in 1989 as well. Rabin

A 505 with ABS should use a Torsen diff, that's why Peugeot had to stop using the cone type LSD for the Turbo and V6.

Welcome to the forum! And a fellow Canadian as well no less! You might want to look for an XN1 5sp rear diff which is LSD and 4.11 which should help with acceleration out of corners, but the holy grail is the Torsen diff out of 89 turbos, but the ratio is 3.46 I believe. https://youtu.be/ojbEdwZIY1c https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yH-n_IT_ZwQ Rabin

hello I've recently acquired a 1987 505 stx v6 auto, I'm planning to use the car as a ice racing and tsd rally vehicle during the winter. unfortunately I've jacked it up the found it has an open diff, i believe the ratio is 3.889 so I'm looking a lsd diff of the same if not similar ratio.

Thx a lot, it appears it is the same ref number. I could not find any information in french groups, I got it here, I will remember it. Thx again

You can find out here: https://public.servicebox.peugeot.com/classic/index.html 604 on the left and 505 on the right.

Hello all, do you think XD2 and XD2S have the same oil gauge ? I just bought a 604 with XD2S motor but can't find an oil gauge which is missing... but i did find a XD2 oil gauge. Wondering if it will work ? Thx for reading Greg

I think the nuts I've been using are not 45 degree units....so the plan at the moment is to re-use original brake fitting nuts, after de-rusting and replating. Actually I'm feeling optimistic now....

Braking fiasco continues: I just put one of the new rear wheel cylinders in. I have come to the conclusion that - yet again (!) the type of brake unions I used in the lines I've made up are not correct, with insufficient taper that you see in the original one in this photo. I may have to redo all the lines again, if I can find the correct unions at last..... The type I used on the latest version of the lines has a taper but it's only about 33% as much and that has meant the union cinches up against the cylinder and the brake line is still loose!! (And the flare is destroyed in the process.)

here they are with a coat of Krylon.