Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates

  1. Today
  2. Just test drove the car with the new Transmission and torque tube. The sound is the exact same as it was before, except this transmission is occasionally reluctant to come out of first. A great learning experience I guess... but was completely a waste of time. Hopefully a few miles on this transmission will make it work properly. Next up is a Valve adjustment, and some Polyurethane control bushings, then I can *hopefully* enjoy this car.
  3. Yesterday
  4. Check the trunk seal and taillamps, there must been standing water to make it rust that much, in the 405's any water from the trunk usually ends up under the bottom of the back seat when it drives downhill. Its defenetly fixable, you just need a good metal guy.
  5. Last week
  6. High Bean, the rest of the car is basically rust free, where the rear quarters were replaced the bodywork is starting to show through, more a function I believe of just bad body work done in the first place, which my shop will certainly remedy when they repaint more or less the whole rear of the car. Quite honestly, because of how good the rest of the car is, it allows me to rationalize spending this money to do the bodywork correctly, i.e. metal replacement where needed, etc. It will not be cheap, but in my opinion, it is the only way to save the car properly…
  7. Agree the rust is quite minimal and very much isolated to the areas you exposed… We deal with rust a fair bit in our climate and I’d be pretty happy to have that kind of rust problem! I assume no body work or body paint needed? Are lower door seams, trunk and hood edges rust free as well? Rabin
  8. Mike, the rust here is fortunately all in the trunk/inner fender area. It's not something I was happy to find, but it's nothing structural, and the rest of the car is surprisingly free of rust. Again, not ideal, but it's not the end of the road for this car. I brought detailed pictures of all of this to my body shop, and they aren't intimidated at all. We will soldier on and make this car right...it's now a mission... This is regrettably what we sometimes deal with in these great lakes climates. Thankfully none of my other cars are afflicted with any of this. However this car has certainly seen some winters in its lifetime. But it will never see that again once I'm done with it...
  9. I've just removed the block and crank from the acid bath now, and cleaned it. It's nice to look at really clean and rust free old parts.
  10. Man that is some nasty rust! Are a lot of them around you that bad? I remember in 2004, being in Québec City and seeing a red MI16 with MASSIVE portions of both rocker panels missing. That was the only time until now that I have seen a 405 rusted that badly. Seen below: I recall being on a Peugeot factory tour at Sochaux just as the the 405 was about to be introduced. The tour guide said that the 505 and the "model that will soon be introduced" have/will have significant panels made of galvanised sheet steel, but that was highlighting a new problem: the only places where there is not a sacrificial anode is at the spot welds. Which is of course at key stress points, where you don't want corrosion at all. They were working on weldable primers that would seal the spot welds at the time. None of those coatings last for long anyways. Good luck with the rebuild.
  11. In order to fully process all of what is ahead, I took a step back for a minute to figure out a plan. At the moment, I have an excellent body shop already lined up to basically re-do the rear 1/4 panels, since the bodywork just hasn't held up. It will be done right. All the inner work, ie. trunk floor and wheel wells, I'm going to tackle. My friend has a welder, and since none of this work will be visible, we will just get some good metal back in there, and once done, will seam seal everything from the inside, and undercoat it all from the outside. Since this car will never again see winter driving, I believe it will all hold up. Again, not what I was hoping to find, but these are old cars with stories to tell... I thought it deserved a wash today, so I pulled it out of the garage and did so (in 38 degree weather no less). It will be worth it when done...
  12. This project just took a little turn... As you all may recall, I've mentioned before that this red Mi16 has had it's rear quarter panels replaced. I had assumed a rear end collision to likely be the culprit, but after taking a real close look at the car on my lift, there was really no sign of that, however what I did find was something else...rust... Nothing too terrible, but enough to make me now think that it was rust issues that may in fact have warranted the rear quarters to be replaced. After pulling all the trunk carpets out, I was able to reveal some of the fun. Well, nothing to do here but start grinding away until I get to good metal. We will make this car right, I just wasn't prepared for all this...
  13. Rods are H-beam made to original dimensions by Mespiecesauto in France. https://www.mespiecesauto.com/en/produit/peugeot-505-turbo-forged-conrod-n9t-h-beam-conrod/ Standard length and large and big end diameter. So they are for OEM bearings and sizes.
  14. Crankpins are Ø52mm nominal for both engines. Speaking of crank maybe a SAAB crank could be machined to fit the N9T block, the bore spacing seems close. There is also a Ford U.S. engine the 2.3 and 2.5 HSC with a 103,632mm bore spacing.
  15. Are the rods made for std dimension bearings? So if you get a good used crank they’ll still work? What kind of rods are they? Stock rods were heavy, but should be strong - it’s the pistons that are a known weakness in these motors - they don’t tolerate knock very well at all, but if they’re in good shape and the tune is good they should be fine. Rabin
  16. It all depends on the small and big end sizes. I would like to keep my forged H-profile rods if possible. In worst case I would have some special order parts by size. It all comes down to cost really. It's also possible to get a bespoke crank for about 2500-3500USD. But I really don't have that kind of money to use on a crank. In any case, I will not put in rods with a lesser quality than what I have. So OEM Saab or Cosworth is out of the question. But Chinese made forged could be. Unless it's cheaper to get usable oversized bearings. It's kind of silly to buy new rods, grind the crank even more AND modify rods, when all I theoretically need is either a supplier of oversized bearings or a used OEM crank that could be saved with a polish.
  17. Is there no way to use Cosworth YB or SAAB H engine rod bearings by machining the rods?
  18. Just a little update here. After the last posts, I actually never used the car after the trip to the first owner. As I could hear a slight engine knock when the engine got hot. I didn't want to take any chances as parts are really hard to come by for these engines. So in October last year I removed the engine from the car, and dismantled it the day after. What I then found out was that because of a large dent in the oil sump, my pickup for the oil pump was smacked down in the bottom of the pan. And probably for this exact reason, the car couldn't produce the correct oil pressure. This is taking some time as money is somewhat limited nowadays, as well as parts are really hard to come by for these cars. But this weekend, my block is in a acid bath for stripping. And I will start with some machining when I can. But if someone know of a undamaged crank I can use, it would be really helpful. Both rods and block is 100% But crank is really bad, and one of the crank to rod connections is already grinded to the overdim bearing I was able to get. Even standard bearings is really hard to get hold of. Overdim is almost impossible. And especially when already ground to one overdim.
  19. As they are quite heavy, I would think that yes. The engine was rebuild in a really "amateur" way when the car was painted. And the problem that made the engine fail the last time, was not fixed. When I disassembled the engine now, I found out that the oil sump is so badly dented, that it hits the oil pickup. So I recon it is way to close to have decent oil flow. This time I will do it properly myself. I'll try to take pictures and do some updates in my project thread along the way.
  20. Finding one near you would be ideal - Ne from North America would be very expensive to ship. @V-M maybe? Rabin
  21. A mistake was made by the Lithuanians that grinded my crank for overdim bearings, and now I need to redo the work myself. And unfortunately I really would like to get hold of undamaged crank for my engine when I am completely overhauling it. I put the block in the acid for stripping today, and will take it out on Monday to assess the damage more. But I do think the block is 100% fine.
  22. I don't know if you can simply machine the J4R block to J4RS spec, if not you could still create some external plumbing like on the Sierra Cosworth engine. If you don't have a XU10J4R yet then looking for a XU10J4 engine is not a bad idea, the head is the same than the 405 T16 minus the cams and sodium filled valves so you know the design is fine with boost. In fact it is based on the 205 turbo 16 evo head and was also used on the 206 WRC by taking advantage of homologation rules.
  23. The 135hp XU10J4R engine block doesn't have pistons oil jets (unless it's one of the very first ones from a 605/XM) so if you want to run plenty of boost later it's better to start with a XU10J4, XU10J4RS or XU10J2TE engine if possible.
  24. How has the build been going, any news?
  1. Load more activity
  • Create New...