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I used Ghidra for the disassembly - one of my other interests is restoring vintage computers, and it's my tool of choice for reverse-engineering software - it's got support for all sorts of processors. That's unfortunate about the driver electronics differences; I suppose it makes sense though - no point in populating components that won't be used. I'd always wondered why there was a separate ignition module! Guess it's one of life's little mysteries why they did it that way.

Nice catch, what tool did you use for disassembly? Concerning ECUs boards not all of them have the daughterboard that you find on the XU9J4/XU9J4Z ones, I suspect it is related to knock sensing. The XU9JAZ ECU having no IAC valve some other components might be missing. Another quirk is that unlike BMW Peugeot used the Bosch blue "123" external ignition amplifier instead of simply having the ECU drive the coil as intended so no T500 on the board. Bdw the "123" amplifier isn't supposed to be used like that, on the original units the square signal mess with the Dwell calculation and the amp act as a dumb one but on the newer units this likely undocumented feature isn't as reliable and ignition can be messy.

I've had a bit of time to go back and revisit this, and using the other two .bins I found, I think I've managed to reconstruct the corrupted data from my original 1 267 355 730 EPROM. Looking at the checksum (thanks for that info by the way, SRDT!) the checksum in the header was 1A3E but the checksum of the data was 1ABE. This could either be caused by a single-bit flip (bit 7 of a single byte going from 0 to 1), or very specific combinations of multiple bits being flipped in different locations. Assuming that a single-bit flip was a lot more likely, I started comparing my collection of ROMs for locations where only that bit was different. None of my ROMs exactly matched my original, but the differences were largely multiple-bit changes. There was only one location where bit 7 was changed, and it was in a part of the ROM that otherwise had no differences - it appears to in a chunk of 8051 code rather than a map table, and the flipped bit (my bad ROM on the right in the screenshot) changes the instruction stream to something that doesn't really make sense - it's loading a sequence of values from ROM into RAM, and the flipped bit completely messes up the sequence that it's reading from. I flipped that bit back and burned a new chip, and it seems to be happy! Starts and runs just fine, and no code 54! Also, while investigating all of this, I'm starting to suspect that actually, all M1.3 ECUs are the same, no matter the part number - the only difference, I think, is the EPROM chip. I might buy some old E30 BMW ECUs for cheap and experiment by loading them up with the various Mi16/BX 16v/309 GTI .bins I've accumulated - I'm curious to try out the differences but don't really want to have to keep opening my ECU box up. I've attached a .bin of my reconstructed 1 267 355 730 EPROM for posterity. No guarantees that it's actually correct, but it seems to me like it works! 0261200161_1267355730_fixed.bin

Jenn and Matt came over today to help with the installation. Now to mount the accessories etc......

Preparing for paint, still alot of work to do

Flywheel goes on once the engine's off the stand and on the crane, then into the car she goes.....later this month, I expect.

https://www.canam-peugeot.com/forum/index.php?/topic/1742-tamas-505-engine-mods/&page=2#comment-35815

Car is still working perfectly! The first version of the engine was built 22 years ago.. time flies... I've done some additional mods to the car such as replacing the TO3/4 with Holser HX35 Super and larger intercooler. I'm still running 1,4 bar boost and with the Holset i feel having more power with the same boost. Now the waste gate seems to be stuck and im running 1,7 bar and having lot of power. I havend done any long pullo with that booster but seems working fine.. so far... When I drive the car I feel that I'm 18 again as you can see from the videos 20240731_103517.mp4 20230722_193518.mp4

Hello again, been a while but no news is good news in this case. Still lots of little things to do on the car, but the main one up next is fitting a front mount intercooler. I'd taken out my AC condenser and it's fan so I have a good amount of room up front. I'm assuming changing to FMIC wont need a retune or anything? also where do people usually route the tubing? cut a hole in the sheet metal beside the headlights? Glad the thread was helpful! A bit of a summary might also be helpful for others who stumble on that issue so: Car had a dead alternator and when revved above ~3000rpm the knock sensor light would flash until the car was tuned off. The flashing was in a specific sequence which was 4 flashes in a row then a pause, meaning error code 4: fault with knock detection circuit. Other symptoms were it wouldn't rev high and had intermittent ignition cut out while driving until it was cycled off/on again then would be fine. Seems when the alternator dies, it can damage the ignition ECU as well. I tried replacing a few components on the board itself along the path of the knock detection circuit, but made no difference, so got a used one online which solved the issues.

Now there are sub-searches within model series (e.g. 204) on the body type and model years, etc. The French language version of the site is also more developed.

Photo loads are done, background photos done. French language pages still needing to be updated. Any additions to this Register are welcome! https://peugeot-canada.ca/browse.php?

A goofball mispelled patch “Peugot” is on ebay. 266928800640 Item number

Soft launch: The new Canadian Peugeot VIN Register is up and running! Thanks to Ashton Wong for the hard work on this! The basic functions are all there, but the following remain to be done: load the French language version - Il faut attendre quelques jours pour la version de la site en Français. load many photos of individual vehicles where I have them. update background photos. Meanwhile, have a look and be sure to spread the word about the site. The "+" sign is a means for new vehicles to be uploaded by anyone (with a small delay, as I do it manually to avoid spam) and for any updated records to be added. https://peugeot-canada.ca/browse.php?

Interesting! I think the one I installed should be OK!

Probably no where near the correct size, but it caught my eye! https://youtube.com/shorts/XmSykQdr1F0?si=N5sZM03Tpi9aYTTf

The Canadian Peugeot VINs are up, but other info like photos, self-data upload and search functions are a work in progress. Stay tuned..... La version Française n'est pas mise au point au moment, il faut patienter un peu. Ça va arriver !

Looking for a 505 parts car with good body and decent interior. I'm restoring a 505 Wagon and sedan and need the interior for the sedan and the front end for the Wagon. Preferably close to North Carolina. Not concerned with engine/trans.

OK so the Granfondo was on the 14th and a week later I tackled the replacement of the belt. First photo is a comparison of the Peugeot Classic reproduction, which is known to be fragile, to the EAI (Australia) supplied belt that I bought in 2009. Left is the repro and right is the EAI belt. The Rilsan plastic is a bit lighter coloured on the repro and the reinforcing wires are golden coloured. The EAI one looks like the one Michel Aubé sent me a photo of. I initially test-mounted the best-looking of the used belts to the injection pump and once tightened up, the belt was overly loose and floppy. I therefore decided to use the EAI belt, which I think/hope is OEM. Bolted up the front cover, doing a better job of tightening the bolts so the cork gasket does not split! (The last time I found it had been compromised by excessive tightening.) Then the sump and now it's ready to receive the head.

BTW I think my comment about chains is intended to be with respect to the idea of retrofitting a chain rather than designing the car from the beginning with a chain drive. The oil pressure circuit would be the main impediment to both!

Totally correct, Rabin. The fuel just stops being delivered and the car gets towed! The problem with chains is that the 1 inch spacing apparently makes it more difficult to package the injection pump and drive it at the correct angle, given how it's mounted on the timing cover block. Also there is the matter of wear compensation: there is no oil circuit near there that could hydraulically do that, so it was a bit of a workaround. The BMW 2002 tii has a similar setup, though their toothed belt is a different length. Interestingly, a pre-series of 404 engines was delivered with a SEDIS Rilsan belt to drive the camshaft, but that experiment was not too successful (I suspect the extra load from valve springs meant the belts tended to snap - still, a non-interference engine). The belts are a lot quieter than chains.

Curious why they didn’t run sprockets and chain to drive the injection pump? Good thing you have choices, but I assume worst case if the belt has an issue you just loose fuel and nothing catastrophic happens to engine correct? Rabin

Michel Aubé has one in NOS and its the same ivory like colour as the one from EAI on the bottom right, so I may use that after all. Michel's belt and parts info tag:

The other belts I have. The three reddish-brown ones are original used belts. Botton left is the original from my car. Bottom right is one bought in Australia in 2009, so pre-reproduction era. Bottom left will likely be going in and the bright white one will come out.

Michel Verdier recommends putting the red plastic (Rilsan) belt back in, so I will.

https://www.sedis.com/en/ But these puppies were not chains and as you say the collective memories (and molds) have been lost a generation or two ago!