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  1. Today
  2. Pretty sure the hall sensor is the same as a VW distributor from a 1.8L Jetta from say 1987 (I think). They use the same distributor cap, so should be easy to source. Same wire, and same plug - so should be good if you can source the VW one. Rabin
  3. Yesterday
  4. Fuel system is now sorted out and seems to be working. Main problem now is a very intermittent spark. I took the plugs out and they were pretty fouled, so put some new ones in. Tested to see if they spark ok and in 10 seconds of cranking with the plugs out and grounded, I only got a few sparks. Same thing when swapping the ignition ECU. I suspect the coil or maybe the hall pickup at the distributor are flaky. Coil is relatively cheap, hall sensor not so much without testing it first.
  5. Some glow plugs can stay on after starting the engine to avoid a rough cold start and cut on emissions, there is usually a more sophisticated control box with external sensors to go with it. One good thing with the control box is that you are unlikely to burn the glow plugs, you will also power them for the shortest time so they should last longer.
  6. Last week
  7. Damn - That’s too bad! The plus side is that it should be an excellent parts car, and it’s parts will help other cars stay road worthy.
  8. Uh oh Well I finally cleared out my garage and got rid of the ant infestation of the car... I pulled the car into the garage and got it on jack stands to look around for rust. What a shame, one of the rear trailing arms has rust holes in it, the driver side frame rail has pretty big holes in it as well. The rear foot well is completely rusted through, its just carpet left. Such a shame to have to use it as a parts car... I suppose that was my original intention for this car though.
  9. Ah ok, interesting. I just assumed when the light went out, they were up to temp. It also occured to me today I think the plugs are only actively heated until the engine is running? It never really occured to me before but if I'm not mistaken that's kinda of the point of diesel engines? This makes the manual GP setup make more sense to me as to it's simplicity on operation. The plugs are brand new. I do have a small leak at the pump over yet to address so I guess until that's done and I check the timing I can't rule anything out. I've been dealing with little things here and there like getting my turn signals to work consistently and other little electrical things popping up. I've found that if I want my fuel gauge to work, I need to not mess with the radio...... I'm waiting on a part for another car and when that arrives I'll be diving in fully to ask the issues with the 505. I'm thinking I may forgo driving it this winter if I don't fully sort out the fuel/starting/etc issues.
  10. I can't tell you about the older box but the newer one is a bit more than a dumb timer. It will power the glow plugs for a set amount of time unless you cut ignition or try to start the engine, this maximum duration is for a cold engine in cold weather. There is a temp sensor inside the box to shorten this duration when possible, it doesn't act on the relay itself but on the light on the dash. This way you are the one shortening the heating time by engaging the starter as soon as the light goes off ; that means you can also choose not to do so if you know the glow plugs are old and need a bit more time.
  11. As for the lights - There are grounding trees under the dash, in the rear quarter panels, and on the core support. Also make sure the car has good chassis to engine block grounds, and battery to chassis, and battery to block grounds. I take all all electrical connections apart, clean, tighten, and protect every one - Same for the grounding trees. Rabin
  12. The vacuum system should be a closed system in that it should be able to run, build vacuum, then shut off until something like brake booster or HVAC controls use it. It’s not going to be completely sealed, but it shouldn’t run continuously, or even cycle very quickly. I’d put a vacuum gauge into one of the hoses so you can see how much vacuum is being built up, where does it shut off, and how fast it leaks down. When I was using a vacuum pump I borrowed to test the filter head for leaks, it worked, but what I didn’t realize was that there was no set vacuum and it destroyed my freshly installed primer pump diaphragm during testing! Expensive lesson learned, but just make sure you know what the details are. If it’s not holding a vacuum at all, then you’ll need to find the leak - using a smoke machine might be the best way to figure that out… (There are DIY versions to make smoke machines online) Rabin
  13. I replaced the switch and the pump with the same ones. When it works, it works perfectly. I am now trying to sort out why it only seems to work intermittently. I feel it has to be something in the wiring so I am going to remove everything and reinstall, paying particular attention to splices and wire gauges. As I hadn't found a good switched source, I was finding initially that it worked great just wired directly to always hot power. When I wasn't driving, it wouldn't take much to create a vacuum and maintain it, as all the check valves seem to be fine. Then it seemed to operate intermittently, and and thought that it may be overworking the vacuum pump. I found that any time I could identify that it wasn't working, if I put power directly to the pump, it functioned, and the relay functioned as it should, as well. I am assuming there is something not completely connected in the wiring I created to make this work so hopefully after rewiring the whole thing, it will function properly and consistently. Once I get it sorted out I will post the whole process/diagrams.
  14. That angle makes them look much more out of spec than it really is. I was able to get this flasher for <4usd and it was in stock. I was able to only mildly bend the prongs in and then up again to be square, and it works fantastic. Through Advance auto the info is: Novita Hazard Warning Flasher Thermal Flasher Part No. 550
  15. I have yet to address my blower fan resistor issue, and have continued to use the POs setup of manual fan control, when needed. It works fine on "Hi", even though I have found they used speaker wire for the line to the manual switch. Regardless of that, I certainly have more critical issues to address. Mainly: - Instrument cluster lighting only works after car has been running for ~15-20 minutes (assume this is a grounding issue) - Factory head unit (radio) WAS working, but now only works intermittently, which I also assume is a grounding issue. - Fuel gauge ONLY stopped working earlier today but would come back to normal if I turned the headunit on and off ( lolol, I know, it has to be grounds) - All blinkers (directional, Hazard) stopped working (have replacement flasher module, looks the same but plug prongs will need to be modified) - have replaced the vacuum pump with an electric one which works fantastic, when it works. Still need to determine a dedicated Ignition "ON" circuit. FSM shows auxiliary power block behind the glove box but now that I have the lower dash exposed I will likely be able to find something closer to the drivers side. I HAVE considered having it always hot as, if the check valves are working properly, it should be fine. For convenience I may keep it always hot, for now. Posting link to the youtube of my underdash video, looks overall really good, one wire that was out of place that I will figure out. -power steering works, properly, but is leaking, somewhere. I haven't determined where, yet, and I have left the PS belt off, for now. - Inner tie rod on one side needs replacing. The car actually came with a set of complete inner and outers, just waiting to order alignment panels to do it myself, since no one wants to touch it, when I live. - Cruise control inoperable. - Wipers have stopped working. How it happened felt like a relay or ground, haven't had the time to address it yet. - Speedometer/odometer inoperable. Odometer reset seems very "jammed" so I would assume the assembly inside it damaged. I have yet to pull the cluster out as I was concerned it may create other drivability issues. Lower priority: - AC operational - Moonroof operation (I think I have this sorted but need to address the drains and seal of the panel)
  16. I would love to get a circulating block heater and make everything work properly, realistically, I think this is going to be something that is going to be put up until spring as the temperatures are beginning to approach the single digits (C) here and I am finding a lot of little electrical issues here and there. I'll update on my introduction thread regarding the peripheral issues I am dealing with, as they aren't related to the engine/glow plugs
  17. I wonder what the wire was from the alternator that went to that, when I was working out the alternator retrofit and it smoked. I've looked at my FSM and haven't found anything directly relative but I am not going to overthink something I will be getting rid of soon, anyway! I DO still have a decent leak at the IP so that could certainly be a factor and I can't rule anything out until I address that. I am working on having other "back up" vehicles before I dive into the IP on this one, as it is my primary DD right now. Interesting. So basically the box is just a timer? I have seen diesels for sale that say they have the manual update and they don't have this box. I guess the major difference is that you just turn it on and count enough to assume it's heated up? I wonder if the post MY82 had better wiring/GPs to justify such a huge drop in time required.
  18. I found a source in Europe for both of these types of unions so they've been ordered and are on their way.
  19. Earlier
  20. ...and it turns out that the unions likely were the problem with my new brake lines.The reason is that the Hydrovac 404s have short external brake lines connecting the two cylinders - these have bubble flares, which I dutifully made, but the fittings that I used the first time were the same over all lines, which in hindsight is not correct, because the bubble flares use about 1/3 the conical taper of the regular flares. So those lines would have been where the air was being sucked in.My friend Tim Bowles in Victoria gave me a set of used fittings and this is when I finally clued into the problem. So I've removed and cleaned up 4 originals and will make sure to use them on the new lines I make up. Feeling optimistic about this now... Left is the inter-cylinder fittings for the bubble flares and right is the other type of fitting.
  21. Small update: A little more progress has been completed. Pump, filter, and accumulator bracket was sanded, and coated with rust reformer, then painted. I also finally acquired some of the hardware for the bracket. New nuts,washers, and screws. I went ahead and installed the accumulator, and it looks great. Something about new hardware is very satisfying, not sure I can quite explain it. Side note: I got rid of the rusty blown up muffler First coat of rust reformer After a coat of paint Finished product, not the best job sanding, but good enough.
  22. The subframe needs to be lowered a little so it can pull out the front. Mounting block nuts are just under the rear seat (3 bolts) on each side. Rabun
  23. Does the rear suspension have to be dropped to get the torque tube out? I have removed the transmission, engine, differential, struts, hubs, and half shafts and really want the torque tube before I scrap the car.
  24. Nothing has happened since the summer began other than me getting some more parts for the brakes and a taper type ring compressor, which should arrive Wednesday. The 10 mm UNF fittings I got from France had about 1/3 of the width of 45 degree taper on them compared to the originals. This meant that a test flare I made was mangled by the cylinder and the sealing would be crap. So.....I have resorted to re-using original fittings from 404s - plating them - because they're the only ones that I can say will work for sure. I have resisted cutting up the original brake lines because in the worst case scenario I could re-use them, knowing they seal well. Coming soon: engine reassembly and brake line manufacturing phase 2.
  25. Well, it's been a while since I've updated this thread, mostly because much progress hasn't been made. However, more recently some improvements have been completed. I installed the correct driver side sun visor. The one in the car was from a later model 505, and was in terrible shape. Also cleaned the relays, and grounding trees in the black box under the hood. Removed the fuel pump, accumulator, and filter as well, I need to get the fuel filter, and I'm considering replacing the fuel pump. I have had the accumulator for a quite sometime, just need to install. The most recent improvement I have made, has been getting a Peugeot oem stereo. Thanks to fellow Peugeot owner Karl Nelson, I finally was able to acquire two radios. They both need work, but they look a heck of a lot better than the Honda radio the car came with, and sound quite good. Next thing, on my list is a fuel filter, and fog lights. That should get the car up and running again, hopefully well. I have noticed a slight coolant leak, as my expansion tank is low. I'll have to look into this when I get the car running again.
  26. If I got this right : up to MY82 20s duration since MY82 8s duration They changed both glow plugs and control box.
  27. Yes - Control box basically gets replaced with the manual / switched solenoid to actuate GP’s by you. Hard starting is usually pump timing, or poor atomization from injectors from what I read. There could also be a very slight air leak that prevents fuel pressure from building quickly… Rabin
  28. With the manual GP conversion, I can eliminate the control box? I'm thinking about getting a coolant circulating heater such as the "zerostart". I'll look into the timing as well. I'm assuming no because everything is stock? With manual GP control I can eliminate that box altogether, I think? I'll be sure to check that connection when I do the individual leads.
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