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  1. Yesterday
  2. Both Savo and Goce said it looked factory and those two know them best on here so it has to be so. 505's use something similar that looks like regular electricians tape, but only certain sections have adhesive, so it usually unravels easily when you need to take it off. I usually replace with plastic split loom whenever I can as it's cheap and does a decent job. Rabin
  3. So how about it guys, that wiring/taping look factory? Just looking for more opinions here... Also, more updates coming this week...
  4. Last week
  5. Hi all, Thank you very much admin for accepting me as a new member. I am located in Singapore, grew up with a 504 as a kid (my parents owned one, brand new purchase at that time). I am about to rekindle with 504 and I am seriously considering to purchase one good condition 504 that was manufactured in 1975. The car is located in other country therefore import process, custom clearance and local registration is needed. There's a foreseen problem with the importation and registration process. The local authority wants to see VIN number printed in both commissioning plate and chassis / body. We tried to find out but seems this unit doesn't have the VIN stamped anywhere besides the one on the commissioning plate. For this case, the authority requests me to provide letter from manufacturer to support the case if the car was manufactured without VIN stamping. Questions: 1. Do any of members here also have the same situation where VIN is not stamped on the chassis? 2. Who in Peugeot France that can I contact to request for a supporting letter? Attached picture of the car's commissioning plate (I masked VIN number for privacy reason) - for reference. Thank you very much !
  6. No actual work has been done on the 404C for a couple of days but today I ordered: a new old stock camshaft (specific to the KF2 Injection engine) from Loewendoctor in Germany; a set of 8 new lifters from Alvéas in France; a timing chain tensioner also from Alvéas. The cam was very expensive but I think a new old stock cam will be better than any regrind. A few weeks earlier I ordered new navy blue lap belts for the car, which should be here really soon. And a bit after that, some SEV Marchal spark plugs in NOS for the KF2 Injection engine is on its way from Italy. I hope that's the last of the new parts I will need to get the engine back in shape. I expect to get both in the next few weeks.
  7. Does that ignition picture mean you found the keys?
  8. Goce, dash was pulled because upon looking underneath I saw what looked like non-factory taping and I wanted to see who/what may have gone on under there at some point in time... Savo pretty much told me that the taping quality that you see in the photos above is factory. This still shocks me. As I told him, I'm used to japanese cars, where the taping is pretty much perfect, even Lotus does a good job. But apparently this is how Peugeot wrapped their harnesses back then... The good news is I had a good look around once the dash and harness were out, nothing seemed to have ever been messed with, so I gave everything a good cleaning and reassembled...
  9. Savo, the 607 i just fixed up has enormous breaks, the calipers are 2 piston, i know the disks won't work they are 5 bolt, but the caliper may bolt on 405 knuckle, the bracket bolt spacing looks identical, may be worth looking into, the 607 is an older model now and part prices are lower
  10. I don't see the reason why you've pulled the dash out, the engine has its own separate wiring loom, and can run independent of the chassis, all it needs 2 power wires and couple of grounds, if you are suspecting loose connection check the connectors between the engine and chassis loom located behind the drivers headlight, they are not sealed connectors, and can cause issues on higher mileage or rusty cars, that was one of the changes peugeot made on the series 2 of the 405 the use sealed connectors in the engine bay. As far your wiring looks factory to me, i've often found the boot that goes to the engine bay to be pulled out. Over the years people run all kind of accessories, stereos and that is the only place to gain access, so no big surprise that is pulled out. There are two ground points that are known to rust and course electrical problems on the interior.
  11. Earlier
  12. After I had finished assembling the pump that will go on the car - and cleaning the fuel line banjo unions that are now on it - I had a closer look at the seized pinion. I got a brass punch and gave it some gentle taps and it began to move. Sprayed some WD-40 and it moved some more...then I was able to get it out. Cleaning the shaft and inside of the pinion made it work again when I reinserted it. It was not rust that caused it to seize. So I think it could be made to work. Although the driven shaft seemed a bit graunchy compared to the one I used, maybe graunchy isn't the right word, but at least less smooth. That too could be cleaned up with a full disassembly. The seized valve adjuster is a bit more of an issue. I suppose it could come out if I had the perfect screwdriver for it. I soaked it in WD40. The commutator is shot as seen in an earlier post in this thread but a kind soul in Hungary is sending me a spare new one he had made locally, for free no less! So perhaps one day I could put together a second well functioning pump with what's left. I also found another nearly new set of brushes inside the second motor....
  13. Wow Mike - you really stock piled parts For this build! First reaction on reading the hydraulic part was in bad shape was feeling your pain, followed by “Well of course he had a good spare...” Well now played! Is the bad one salvageable for an parts or possible rebuild or is it too far gone? Rabin
  14. Today I reassembled the hydraulic part of the AEG/KF PLF5A fuel lift pump. Bad surprise: despite the excellent condition of the electrical part of the original pump that equipped my car, the same could not be said of the hydraulic part. The idler pinion inside the pump chamber was seized to its shaft! The last time I ran the engine was about 2005 so the seizure occurred after that....I presume after I disassembled the car in 2016. Also, the lower plate that covers the pump chamber has a regulation valve that is supposed to be removed and checked during a rebuild like this and it too was seized! Anyway, all was not lost... ...because I have a spare lift pump from a car I used to own in 1981-1985 and its hydraulic portion was perfect. All it needed was a thorough cleaning. Cleaning nearly done and the last bits about to go back together.... And it's together. I did another dry run test with it all assembled and it sounded good. I should try a pump test, I suppose, though I have no reason to think it won't pump.
  15. Latest update, dash is out. I had a conversation with Savo about this, and he confirmed that what we're looking at here in these photos is the way they wrapped these harnesses from the factory. I'm still in shock over this. I've mostly dealt with japanese cars, and their taping is pretty great... One of the main reasons I wanted to pull the dash was due to the look of the wiring/taping, because it was easy to assume someone else had been in there poking around and doing something. Well, I think it is safe to assume that is not the case now, so I'm a bit relieved for that part... However, the left and right side grommets that the dash connects through the firewall are missing, so it does seem like the dash has been out before. Would love more thoughts on this... Edit: ignore the zip ties, I had to reconnect the harness to drive the car home...
  16. This was extremely ease to install but unfortunately they don’t clear 15” 205 GTI wheels, I end up ordering 3mm wheel spacers and same wheel bolt and washer kit as I did for rear wheels.
  17. How many viewers did you have on your FB live video tour? Not the best time for any of the automakers, but hopefully it works out. There’s reports that Renault might not survive this pandemic shut down... Rabin
  18. Here's some photos of the interior I promised. We have emailed Peugeot about the car. Looking into all possibilities. Hope everyone has a good week.
  19. Hello! Would someone have the paint chart available for year 1984 for my 505 wagon XN6? Thanks a lot! Stay safe!
  20. Today I pressed the new bearings onto the motor shaft with a vise and then the pinion gear after it was inserted into and through the grease seal in the underside of the motor mounting plate. Checked the length of the original brushes: 6 mm and 9 mm....too short, so I looked in my spare parts stock and found two new or nearly new ones, both 12 mm long. Then the motor was tested and it was SO smooth! Next task: the hydraulic part of the pump, which sits below the electrical part.
  21. Thanks, I think I will have this done.
  22. Detective Coating is who I use, he’s a friend and they are located in Virginia. They have many different ways to get in touch and Justin would be the one to answer your question, I just send it and he gets it done for me.
  23. Big update, got the code figured out, after realizing the ground had to be released. It was code 52, so oxygen sensor, which many here had predicted. Not sure this will resolve all my running issues, but it's a start...just waiting on the part to arrive now... In the meantime, replaced my passenger side sway bar bushings (driver's side on the way in the mail), boy were these shot... Followed up with cleaning up the wheel wells and a powerwash...
  24. What treatment would you recommend for a cast iron exhaust manifold? Approximate cost? Recommended shop?
  25. ^^^^ guess who’s in driver seat 😉
  26. Keep us posted on progress - it’s definitely a cool story and I hope it has an equally cool ending by going back to Peugeot or to some collector... Rabin
  27. Phil made a Facebook group to post about the car in. Search "51mile504" to find the group. We will be doing a live video tonight going over the car inside, outside, and under the hood. I will post more interior pictures up this weekend.
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