All Activity

Up for sale is my 1980 505 GR. Runs amazing, has weber carb conversion. Clutch is slipping due to leaking main seal so must be replaced. But still runs and drives. Zero Rust. Has parts car that also has zero rust. Asking $5000 OBO

I have a 1980 505GR that I would sell. It runs on gasoline. Runs and drives great. The master cylinder is leaking, everything still works. Needs new main seal because the clutch is slipping (might need new clutch). It still drives just started to slip this summer. It is only summer driven. Has a weber conversion carb. Asking $5000 CAD Located in Edmonton Alberta.

Thanks, I've slowly gathered a list I need to call him about. I ended up going through many intake boots via Amazon descriptions, and pictures. I found one from a toyota. That didn't have the large breather connector. So I removed the one from the old hose... works fine for now

Alot of times you can repair the old hoses with some sort of glue. No idea how long that would last. However I just recently bought one from Rob Courter over at Javel. Not sure if he has anymore, but definitely worth a shot.

Hello, I'm looking for a Peugeot 505 Sedan US Spec in very good original condition. Prior Diesel. Best regards Gerhard

Happy New Year, gentlemen. All 3 of my sold cars have been delivered to their new owners and they have been very well received, fortunately. I'm really glad these cars can continue on with the next generation (all sold to guys younger than me, color me shocked). The white car remains for sale, and I can take that or leave it. It has been such as joy to own, and am happy to keep. Will see what the new year brings...

Thanks, I saw those, but the tariff situation makes them unfeasible for now. I'm not desperate. When I worked at a shop that saw a lot of Peugeots we stocked them.

I don't know about the import situation but you can still buy it brand new as a pattern part for cheap: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/3rg/20698814 And as OEM for not as cheap: https://spoox.co.uk/accessories/10954-genuine-oe-peugeot-205-phase-1-rear-washer-jet-643837.html

I need a nozzle for the rear window washer, it snaps in at the top of the tailgate, preferably new. The part number is 643837.

Pulled both the K-Jetronic system and the Oil Bath air filter housing. I can say it certainly looked like it needed help. Don't know what was in all of the sludge that was previously oil, but now its cleaned up, ready for fresh oil, and the filter to be put back in.

Replaced the lift for the truck lid. It was a bigger pain then expected to pull it off the ball.

On a new to me 89 Sw8 2.2 turbo. That accordion hose is shot. Is there any other hoses, part numbers etc, that might work? I found a new one in France, alas will they ship state side is to be determined..

Thank you for posting this. I figured there had to be a compatible, available valve out there and I expect I'll need one for the '89 505-S at some point.

In late summer, my heater started pouring out full hot no matter where the temperature control was set. When current passes through the valve it closes, so any electrical problem will result in full coolant flow, wide open. I pulled the glove box and the climate control ECU. The resistance through the heater control valve was around 3 MΩ. According to the 505 tech training manual it should be 20 to 25 Ω measured at the ECU and 11 Ω measured at the valve. (I'm sure this site is linked to somewhere else, but here it is again: http://peugeot505.info/. It's a pretty old site which hasn't been updated for a long time and it could disappear at any time, so download anything useful. Click on "Manuals".) I checked resistance at the valve itself, which on a V6, is mounted under the cold air intake on the right side. Pull out the air filter box and MAF, then the air intake tube. Viola! there it is. (If you're looking for it on a different drivetrain just follow the heater hoses under the hood.) It measured the same resistance, so I set about finding one. The Bosch number is 1147412020. I tried both that and the Peugeot part number which is 6461.90 in Google and followed every link. I did find some places in Europe that listed it, but most didn't have one and those that did won't ship to the US. In the 90s and early 2ks I used to relace a lot of these types of valves, mostly on MBs and BMWs, so I thought I could find something else I could use. A lot of them were Inlet-Outlet 90° from each other, but Peugeot's is straight through. A lot of them have also been discontinued, so I ended up using BMW# 64116910544 (Bosch 1147412350) and connector kit BMW# 61132359998. I got both of them from FCP Euro for around $100. It is a double valve for dual climate control on X5s and X6s up to 2019 so they should be available for a while. The hose nipple size is also 20mm so no adapting is needed. The one outlet needs to be capped off however. I used a 3/4" cap (Dorman brand I think) and a clamp, see pictures. These types of valves are always rubber mounted because to regulate the temperature they cycle open-closed, the ratio varying with how much heat the cabin needs. If they are mounted solidly you can hear them thump from inside the car, so if you don't mind that you can skip the rubber mounting and save yourself some grief. The lower nipple that feeds the two valves is the inlet and needs to face the front of the car in a V6 or whichever way the original valve was oriented in something else. If mounted backwards the valve may not open because there is just a fairly weak spring operating on it when the current is switched off and the coolant flow is fighting it. As for the electrical part, hook up the wire (33R) that has ignition power when the key is on to terminal 1 (clearly marked on the connector housing) and the other wire (137) that goes to the ECU to terminal 2. Don't forget to use the seals that come in the kit to keep water out. They slide on the wire before the connectors are crimped on. The smaller end of the seal is slid up to the crimp and the two longer ears of the connector get bent around the seal to hold it in place. There are two different sizes and blanking plugs. Put a plug in cavity 3. I did this a few months ago and there's a lot of water under the bridge since, but there should be a lock in the connector shell you will need to slide off to one side a couple of millimeters before inserting the connectors. You might have to remove the big seal from the shell to do so. The lock tab will probably go between the "square" part of the connector and the crimp, so keep the wire just barely past the crimp with the insulation ending just before the crimp and orient the connector the right way as it goes into the shell. As you can see, I made a jumper, but the male end that plugs into the car harness may be hard to come by. I also trimmed off some of the BMW mounting points with a bandsaw, but be careful. I also had to modify the cold air intake tube with a heat gun to get it all to clear, but if you cut off the two mounting bits that stick up from the valve you may not have to. All in all, it works like the original.

Replaced the negative battery cable, replaced the battery, double checked the fuel lines, checked the fuel pump, and now I am 90%certain i know where the issue lies with the peugeot and it not running. That being that the air is not going through the Bosch K-Jetronic system before going into the air intake

I was in contact with the owner yesterday. https://peugeot-canada.ca/vehicle.php?serie=7369

Hello Peugeot owners of Dubai, If you are searching for a dependable Peugeot garage in Dubai that truly understands the engineering, diagnostics, and servicing requirements of French vehicles, this post is for you. We at DME Auto Repairing would like to introduce our specialised Peugeot repair services designed for drivers who value performance, safety, and long-term reliability. Why finding the right Peugeot garage matters Peugeot cars are known for their comfort, smooth handling, and stylish design, but like any European vehicle, they require expert care and precision servicing. Choosing a general garage can often result in misdiagnosis, temporary fixes, or the use of low-quality spare parts. This eventually leads to higher costs and frequent breakdowns. At DME Auto Repairing, we focus on delivering dealership-level service without the high dealership price tag. Our Specialised Peugeot Services Include: Complete Peugeot Engine Diagnostics & Repair We use advanced diagnostic equipment to identify engine faults accurately, whether it's warning lights, performance loss, or unusual noises. Peugeot Routine Maintenance & Servicing Oil & filter change Spark plug replacement Fluid checks & top-ups Preventive maintenance packages Peugeot Gearbox & Transmission Repair Smooth shifting issues, delayed gear response, or transmission warning signals are handled by our expert technicians. Suspension & Brake System Repair Dubai roads and heat can impact suspension and braking systems. We ensure full safety and stability through precise repairs and replacements. AC & Cooling System Service We repair and maintain Peugeot air conditioning and cooling systems to ensure optimal performance even in extreme UAE temperatures. Electrical System Troubleshooting From ECU errors to sensor faults, we resolve all Peugeot electrical issues with accuracy. What makes DME Auto Repairing the preferred Peugeot garage in Dubai? ✔ Experienced Peugeot Specialists ✔ BOSCH-Certified Technicians ✔ Genuine OEM Spare Parts ✔ Transparent Pricing ✔ Fast Turnaround Time ✔ Customer-Focused Support ✔ Modern Diagnostic Equipment We treat every Peugeot as our own, ensuring clients leave with confidence and peace of mind. Common Issues Peugeot Owners in Dubai Face Engine overheating in extreme heat Dashboard warning lights Transmission lag Electrical glitches Suspension noise Brake vibration AC inefficiency Ignoring these problems can result in unexpected breakdowns and expensive repairs. That’s why early inspection at a trusted Peugeot garage in Dubai is always recommended. Why Peugeot owners choose DME Auto Repairing Many of our regular customers switched to us after experiencing repeated issues with generic garages. They appreciated our honest advice, transparent billing, and technical expertise. We don’t upsell unnecessary services — we recommend only what your vehicle genuinely needs. Looking for a Peugeot garage near you in Dubai? Whether you own: Peugeot 208 Peugeot 3008 Peugeot 5008 Peugeot Partner Peugeot 508 or any other model, our team is equipped to handle it all. Visit: DME Auto Repairing – Peugeot Car Repair Service Dubai Contact us today for inspection, diagnosis, or service booking. If you’re serious about maintaining your Peugeot’s performance and extending its lifespan, choose a garage that understands your car — not just any workshop. Drive with confidence. Choose DME Auto Repairing – Your trusted Peugeot garage in Dubai.

I just turned in my plates to the three cars that I sold over the last month, was an interesting feeling, both good and bad, but ultimately more good, the cars are going to good homes to finish the work that I started on them, and I still remain with my white Peugeot that I started with. I’m going to keep it for sale just because it would really make sense for me to thin down the herd a bit more, but at the same time I have no problem keeping it…

So Alveas sent me lines with two different types of fitting. The upper one is correct.....according to my original fittings that can't be re-used.... ...so I made another that was identical to the correct one... Alveas correct line at the upper left; one I made with a Peugeot (but not 404) fitting on the upper right and below that, the one I made to replace the incorrect Alveas one which is at the bottom. RF wheel LF wheel The metal brake lines can all be removed and replaced with the engine in situ but it's not easy. I had to cut the rear line to the correct length (mm-perfect!) under the car and flare it there, and then connect it to the splitter with the splitter not yet mounted to the crossmember. That's because the steering rack in a LHD car will prevent access to the fitting nuts for tightening if it's on the X-member already. Cut the RF brake line under the car too and flared it there and that one can be mounted with the splitter on the X-member. The next step is to take the Hydrovac out and tighten the RF brake line on the splitter and mount the last metal line that attaches to the firewall. Then it should be ready to bleed.

Front crossover lines and some other spare brake parts arrived from France today. ALVEAS is a good fast supplier.

Sunday I made a couple of lines and then mounted them all to the car. New rear proportioning valve with two of the three lines connected to it... Third line connected to the prop valve. Longest line to the front mounted and the end will be flared under the car once I establish the perfect length.

Small and simple replacement The plastic shell on the original had completely disintegrated, and going through all of the spare parts I had in the garage, stumbled across a spare that was in decent shape.

I found a pair of 4435.09 cylinder-to-cylinder lines at ALVEAS and they should be on their way shortly. Much easier than trying to find correct fittings here. My originals are SO mangled and I'm missing 2.

I made up a few brake lines today... The thing is that I think I have to get different fittings from a Hydrovac 404 for the small one in the foreground with no label on it. That's because it is a DIN 45 degree bubble flare and I had a small ziploc bag with the original fittings in it, which I had forgotten about, and they have a long unthreaded nose.... The older line I made up for those front cylinders with incorrect DIN fittings (flat on the back, bubble in the nose) are in this photo for comparison. The long nosed ones were not easily snugged into the cylinders, so they too are incorrect. So I will finish making, and install all the others but I think I need to reflect on the front cylinder-to-cylinder lines yet again.....

Turn Signal indicator housings have been sold