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Mike T

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About Mike T

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    G. O. Canadien Le Club 404

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  • Location
    British Columbia
  • Interests
    Road cycling
    fun with the family

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  1. The Jaeger panel for the sports instrument panel - made by Le Club 404 - arrived today and I installed the instruments provisionally at the lunch break. The instruments other than the oil pressure gauge are used and need to be cleaned and tested. I may also look for a better voltmeter and possibly an 8 Gordini tachometer after all, as the Renault 8S tachometer has a different style of chrome trim. Still it's a good start.....
  2. Sand bending is old school - it used to be done for hydraulic pipes too... but don't forget to clean them out before use!
  3. The original brake pipe unions had 10 mm heads but imperial UNF threads! The replacements were 3/8" because they were locally sourced (remember I made my own brake lines). 7/16" seat belt bolts, eh? Pretty damned small head
  4. Got the SOFICA unit installed with the remote switch wired up nicely. It's worth mentioning that despite being a metric car, the brake pipe unions are 3/8 inch and not 10 mm. A 10 mm wrench will not get them tight enough. Couple of shots from the side, now that the car's off jack stands and on its own wheels again.
  5. The next step was to find rubber mounts for the blower fan motor. The originals were gone and scrap anyway. I thought I'd have to make some but Duncan Auto Parts has a chest of grommets that are surprisingly useful and they had three that fit. The originals were split in half when new and inserted from either side. I decided to see if I could squeeze these new ones through in one piece. Yes is the answer. So I did. I had to make special provision for the wire extenders for the switch because they run near the blower now that they have to exit the housing
  6. There is a 203 in Vancouver owned by a fellow I know. It's not restored and came from the USA originally. Probably the same car you are referring to. On top of that there is one more 203 that is in ICBC's database from BC that may or may not still exist. I have the VINs of both. Another friend in Alberta has bought a Canadian market 203 from 1955, which is presently located in Ontario but soon (post-pandemic) should be in his garage, for a full restoration of this historically important car.
  7. Both commutators are good. For now I won't worry about it as the brushes in the motor should be good for 2000 hours.
  8. Here's a shot of the brushes. Top is the one from the "good motor" - pretty much worn out. The bottom one is from the "noisy" motor - decent. I put the decent ones into the "good "motor.
  9. Today I did some work on the SOFICA blower unit. I have two. One had a noisy motor with lots of end play on the shaft, but much better brushes than the other one, which was quiet and had very little shaft play. So I swapped brush holders, which meant a little bit of soldering. Came out very well. Then I extended the wires so the two speed switch that I have relocated from the blower unit to the dashboard can be fed, and found a good blocking plate for the switch hole. The thing I should have got before now is a set of new rubber mounting washers for the moto
  10. Update: thanks to Daniel Goron in southern France for positively identifying the two fuel tank connections - I did it correctly in the first place!
  11. A year later and before installing the engine, something had been bugging me. The fuel return line I had installed a year ago was too short and ended under the clamp you see on the left side of the photo. So I had installed a rubber injection-rated fuel line with clamp and clamped the whole mess under the holder. But it seems not rigorous and liable to cause leaks or some other problem over time. So yesterday I bought another 16 feet of 5/16 inch Cunifer line and made that line over again. Now it reaches to right under the fuel decanter filter, which is what it's supposed to do, with no h
  12. I mounted the carpet on the transmission tunnel after the removable insulation and fibreglass shells were installed. I think this will be a provisional job because I realize now that the original carpet piece that the new one was modelled on was not the optimal shape for the area behind the shifter. You see the drop-off after the shifter boot, well that is about 7 cm shy of the end of the rear tunnel carpeted section. I guess the original carpet had a separate strip for that area. So I made one up from the dark blue original tunnel carpet and it looks presentable, but the rigor
  13. Drill them out! If they're that bad, how bad is the bodyshell....
  14. Slow but steady. I also dropped off the valves and gaskets, head bolts, valve stem seals, new valve springs and a few other "long block" items at Anderson's Precision Engines on Monday and will have to take a few bolts down next week (camshaft, camshaft retaining clamp, couple others). I hope to get the long block back in January and begin final engine assembly by the middle of that month.
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