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About Bean

  • Birthday 06/21/1971

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    Regina, SK, Canada
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    Contact me via e-mail at webmaster (at) canam-peugeot.com

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  1. Pretty sure the hall sensor is the same as a VW distributor from a 1.8L Jetta from say 1987 (I think). They use the same distributor cap, so should be easy to source. Same wire, and same plug - so should be good if you can source the VW one. Rabin
  2. Damn - That’s too bad! The plus side is that it should be an excellent parts car, and it’s parts will help other cars stay road worthy.
  3. As for the lights - There are grounding trees under the dash, in the rear quarter panels, and on the core support. Also make sure the car has good chassis to engine block grounds, and battery to chassis, and battery to block grounds. I take all all electrical connections apart, clean, tighten, and protect every one - Same for the grounding trees. Rabin
  4. The vacuum system should be a closed system in that it should be able to run, build vacuum, then shut off until something like brake booster or HVAC controls use it. It’s not going to be completely sealed, but it shouldn’t run continuously, or even cycle very quickly. I’d put a vacuum gauge into one of the hoses so you can see how much vacuum is being built up, where does it shut off, and how fast it leaks down. When I was using a vacuum pump I borrowed to test the filter head for leaks, it worked, but what I didn’t realize was that there was no set vacuum and it destroyed my freshly installed primer pump diaphragm during testing! Expensive lesson learned, but just make sure you know what the details are. If it’s not holding a vacuum at all, then you’ll need to find the leak - using a smoke machine might be the best way to figure that out… (There are DIY versions to make smoke machines online) Rabin
  5. The subframe needs to be lowered a little so it can pull out the front. Mounting block nuts are just under the rear seat (3 bolts) on each side. Rabun
  6. Yes - Control box basically gets replaced with the manual / switched solenoid to actuate GP’s by you. Hard starting is usually pump timing, or poor atomization from injectors from what I read. There could also be a very slight air leak that prevents fuel pressure from building quickly… Rabin
  7. I’ve read about the individual cables to the GP’s as well and did it on my wagon just as maintenance when I replaced the solenoid. It already had the manual conversion with a toggle for applying the GP’s. If the car is hard starting even after you replaced them, it would sound like maybe there’s maybe a pump timing problem, injector spray issue, or maybe something else at play - but my first guess would be timing, then injectors. Not a lot of options for block heaters for these, most likely are the lower block heaters, or silicone oil pan heaters. Ive confirmed the turbo gas engines use a 36mm block heater and I found and tested them on the N9TE and it should work, supposed to be the same size for the diesel motors, but I haven’t tested the install yet. Rabin
  8. Gorgeous car Evan, but are you sure you want to sell now rather than just replace the head and sell as a running / driving car? I assume your friend is @wadehilts, but if not maybe he can be of assistance? Diesel head should be dead simple to swap out, with just the cost of a head gasket really. It’s cam in block so no timing components or anything. Rabin
  9. This would be a lot - but if you cut the intake pipes and flipped the plenum 180 degrees the inlet would be facing forwards. Would likely need to relocate the battery or you could upgrade to a newer lightweight lithium battery for clearance. Facing it to the rear like he did always seemed like pretty big compromise for packaging.
  10. Awesome Jonathan! I’ve been looking forward to this post! I started re-reading the discussion with Keebs from 2014 and I’m shocked first of all that it’s been so long, as well as how much my parts / mod list has changed since then!
  11. Also - Any idea what the vacuum pump draws for power?
  12. Awesome! Does the vacuum switch you’re using have any specs? One would hope it turns on at a lower vacuum setting than it turns off at so that it doesn’t cycle so much - but it sounds like it’s sorting itself out. Have you removed the mechanical pump and assorted hoses yet? I’m curious how much quieter it is without the mechanical pump always running.
  13. ABS struts use the same kits as the regular struts iirc - so easy to use a good race shock oil and a new seal. Dani head and cam would be great, but sorting out a good standalone would be the ticket for power and reliability. As for brakes - I had 505 turbo brakes on my 504 when I did a 3 day race school and I could track it all day long and not fade the brakes. Other newer cars could only get 3-4 laps before brake fade had them pulling in. Good pads and a good pad would be key, but the brakes are decently stout out of the box for some track fun. If you got more serious about track time / racing is when you’d need to start looking at upgrades.
  14. That’s why it was the hot ticket for SCCA racing - basically the lightweight race special…. Interiors got gutted anyway so no need for anything fancy. My favorite model next too the ‘89 505 Turbo…
  15. The GL-Turbo didn’t come with a sunroof so dealers or customers would often install aftermarket ones… It should be quite a bit lighter than the ‘89 Turbo…
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