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About Bean

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    Peugeot Enthusiast
  • Birthday 06/21/1971

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    Regina, SK, Canada
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    Contact me via e-mail at [email protected]

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  1. I should have clarified - I knew the gap was adjusted depending on if it was running Nitrous or Forced Induction / Boost, but didn't realize there were differences between street spec and high performance spec engines with no power adders - But sure enough: For a street engine, multiplying your bore size by 0.004in will give you the top ring gap you are looking for. 004 x 4.00in bore = 0.016 inch ring gap For high performance engines, the multiplier changes to add more clearance, but the math stays the same: Modified or Nitrous Oxide - 0.005in x 4.00in bore = 0.020 inch ri
  2. Will you get the exhaust manifold and or stainless header pipe ceramic coated before install? I've never heard of adjusting ring gaps differently on how the motor is used - Did they mention what that difference would be? Rabin
  3. I fixed the link. A slide hammer and some ingenuity should work well, but there's lots on line for building DIY cleaning set ups and tools. This one looks like a great way to clean them, but I'd use a syphoning blow gun and some BG44 or Liqui-Moly injector cleaner to blow through until it sprayed nice.
  4. You need to undo the fuel lines from the injectors before pulling them off, but you shouldn’t have to pull them from the Fuel distributor. If you pull lines off you should run them into bottles and ensure they all flow fuel and that it’s clean fuel. From memory the injectors aren’t held in with retainers like the Mercedes video - Pull them straight out like the VW article linked after. Rabin
  5. Oops - just watched it and the MB is held in different. They do just pull out but this might be better for removal: https://forums.fourtitude.com/showthread.php?3508551-Awesome-Fuel-Injector-Removal-Tool-for-CIS-and-CIS-E!!!!!! The testing and cleaning should be the same however. Good info and it does sound like the injectors are crap - Especially the one that filled the cylinder with fuel! Rabin
  6. Welcome to the forums Paul - That's some fantastic diagnostics for a first post too! 85's have been known to have had faulty ECU's with most folks finding a fix with a replacement ECU, but this is literally the first time I've heard of or read of your trick to get it to start! I had an 85' that was a no start, and I assumed it was the ECU but never had the chance to really test it out. With this new info however - Fixing the ECU shouldn't be that hard. I would wager that the ECU board has a cold solder joint or some other broken power path that is preventing pin 4 from getting powe
  7. Absolutely stunning... So close Mike, it’ll be a very special car when complete. Rabin
  8. If it hydrolocked on fuel then it most definitely has fuel in the oil. If it were me I’d definitely find a good CIS troubleshooting guide to test the flow and spray patter coming out of those injectors ASAP. Rabin
  9. Great to hear the motor is OK? Change the oil ASAP, and monitor the oil level to make sure it doesn’t go up. I’d also lube the cylinders with atf with the plugs out while you’re at it. Definitely pull those injectors and test flow and spray from them! Rabin
  10. If you take your time and really prep a motor that’s been sitting before starting you can avoid a lot of issues. Taking a motor apart is usually (imo) only required if it’s stuck or has significant cylinder bore rust verified by a bore camera. (Or it’s so pricey / rare that you simply don’t want to chance it.) I’ve saved many motors that have sat a long time (7+ yrs) just with proper prep. Soaking cylinders in 50/50 ATF/acetone mix for as long as possible, fresh oil change before cranking motor with plugs out until you see oil in the valve cover, and only then do I install plugs to try
  11. BTW - You can turn it any direction you want if you’re just checking for noises and clanks.
  12. Check the sides of the block for “ventilation” holes. Ventilating a block usually means putting a rod through the side of the block. I’ve only done it once, and it was an XN6 that had the pcv system freeze up and it pumped all the oil out the front sling seal. By the time I thought I saw the oil light flicker, I was looking at it when it lit properly and before I could even let off I heard the death rattle of oil starvation. I knew the motor was toast, so I just kept my foot into it until it died catastrophically and we coasted to a stop on the highway. Damn shame that one was
  13. Wow Lenny - I didn’t realize you were from South Africa AND I didn’t realize they made the 404d up until 1979 there! If it’s the same as the 504d that we got that should make it an XD2 2.3L diesel. If it was turbo it’d an XD2S. Feel free to post pictures - would love to see it. Rabin
  14. Hi Steve, There’s a Peugeot-L mailing list as well that goes out to a bigger North American audience - I can message you the details as that would likely be a better way to get the word out for parts. Rabin
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