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About Bean

  • Birthday 06/21/1971

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    Regina, SK, Canada
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    Contact me via e-mail at webmaster (at) canam-peugeot.com

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  1. These cars really get under your skin for how they drive. The steering is telepathic and the road feel is absolutely one of the best I’ve ever experienced. They’re also great fun driving at the limit which is why I loved rallycross and autocrossing them.
  2. Yes - FSM means that. 2-3 pumps for regular maintenance sure, but for a car that has been sitting that long I’d do more personally. “Flooding” the torque tube isn’t really accurate, but if you’ve ever repacked bearings with a cone packer you’d see 10-15 pumps is enough to push fresh grease in. Much rather have excess rather than not enough. The noise you have might be from contact being made to the rear suspension. There are silent block bushings that give out and can cause vibration and driveline noise to pass into the chassis. Just spit balling possibilities, as I’ve never known a transmission to make that kind of noise, but maybe it is?
  3. I do like 10-15 pumps min. You might also want to pull the speedo cable out of the transmission as it might be making noise since it’s speed related. That’s a cool set up for testing the car - I may have one, but it doesn’t have instructions. Probably gets covered in the FSM? If it has instructions can you scan them? Rabin
  4. Can you take a pic of the pin out tester? I’ve never used one and it sounds awesome. Abs brakes on these are fantastic - even by modern standards as I used to rallycross my car and even in loose surface driving they were just so good even when it was super slippery. Whining / whistling you might want to make sure that torque tube Center bearing is well lubed. Might also want to remove the console and trans cover, then use a mechanics stethoscope to see if it’s trans or torque tube. Sound can transmit strangely when connected rigidly like the 505, so isolating the sound is time well spent. AC - Might make sense to convert to 134A which would mean new oring seals, expansion valve, and new oil. If system has been open I’d clean everything out real well to, but it’s a pretty easy system. Get them to pull a vacuum before charging and if it holds tight you should be good to go. Rabin
  5. Tires will never flex at the top, so guys have fit 215/60-15’s that just barely take the paint off with no issues. I usually run 205/60-15 on my turbo sedans that I would auto cross with, and 195/65-15’s on other cars. Careful with the timing- I tried bumping timing on my cars, but anything more than 10degrees caused it to buck / cut out on my cars. Best running I found was stock timing or just barely over, TPS adjustment bang on, and new vacuum lines for boost control. Rabin
  6. Welcome to the forum! The milky oil is usually from a head gasket failure which is fairly common with XN series motors as the head bolts don’t get retorqued to specs. When you do the valve adjustments you might want to do the head bolts just to make sure. If you get the milky oil again it could be head gasket. Another thing to check is the pcv screens are clean and in place, and that the car is getting up to temp with a good drive to boil any moisture out of the oil. Short trips can cause some condensation which will be enough to cause the milkshake on oil cap. Rabin
  7. Beautiful car Gerry - feel free to post up LOTS of pictures if you want, and good luck with sale! Rabin
  8. Sunroof cable sheath splits which causes the non-op. Should be a guide on the site that should help. It’s a brake compensator attached to the roll bar, the more weight in the car the more rear brake bias - it doesn’t apply brake, just allows more brake if that makes sense. What size / brand / model tires did you go with? Tach signal is off coil I thought, so might want to check connections there. AC - I used to be quite unsure about AC and would always hire it out. After abysmal work/service after a condenser replacement that would only last a season and that eventually took out my compressor when an print blew because of a crappy install. I tackled the fix myself, replaced compressor, condenser and an AC line. Has a buddy evacuate and charge with 134a last summer, just tried it yesterday after a LONG winter and it blew cold. As long as all the parts are there I’d say fix the AC - I won’t ever be afraid to tackle any AC system. Rabin
  9. My brother has done this with his 505 v6 - coil over sleeves on stock shock bodies, and his other car is running sport springs. He changed his hubs to 6x140 and runs 17x8 rims on his car. Nobody makes anything so anything you want will need to be custom fabricated. Rabin
  10. Welcome to the forum Tashko! I had 2x 504 wagons in high school MANY years ago now and have a very soft spot in my heart for them. Gas or diesel? Auto or manual? Keep us posted on progress (Maybe do a build thread?), and take lots of pictures. Strut housings are usually fairly easy repairs if you’re handy with a welder since it’s usually just the spring perch that rusts out. Would be pretty easy to either repair or use a different perch if you can’t find a good replacement. Rabin
  11. Wow - can’t believe how time flies. Tough to say what you should do, and not idea what kind of market exists there for selling it, but selling it has the least time commitment! Maybe some amateur drifter wants a very unique car to compete with? Turbo the motor and it might be a great drift car. Rabin
  12. Wow - Gorgeous wheel! Is it a manual car? ‘Cuz a matching shift knob would look fantastic. I love a nice wheel - had Momo’s on both my 504 and 505’s. Rabin
  13. I reached out to Brian and he said: “Between the valves is where the diesels crack. If it's only on one cylinder it's probably not too deep yet. 3Ts seem the best of the diesels in resisting cracking.” Brian can be reached at 8zero2-7nine3-7one68 - I’d call him and discuss specifics. Rabin
  14. I thought Brian was still some selling parts, but is still a wealth of info. If memory serves cracks between valves was common and a non-issue, but I can’t confirm. xd3p should be the same motor, and I know Tata (in India) was making a copy of the motor for years that they eventually made direct injection. There was also talk of the marine xd3 with an iron head… Brian Holm might be your best bet, but if you called around any good shop capable of aluminum head repairs should be able to fix it, but it’d be fairly pricey to remove the seats, fixt the crack, then replace seats etc etc. I’ve never actually heard of anyone needing to fix any diesel heads except for getting the surface machined, so kinda thinking the cracks are normal. Only caveat being that piston protrusion should always get measured to ensure the proper HG is used. Rabin
  15. It just presses in... If the motor was every in a manual car before you'll likely need to replace the bearing. Rabin
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