Bean

Correct - It will just stay in open loop, but good from a troubleshooting perspective since I’ve found if it stabilizes running right away the O2 is the issue. I was away from my garage so I wasn’t able to determine what was wrong with the O2, but open loop fixed it. Replace O2 and plugged it back in and it was great. If it is 3 wire and you discover you do need to change it, I’d recommend upgrading it to a 4 wire - they respond quicker and are more accurate that a 3 wire with a dedicated sensor ground vs relying on sensor ground through exhaust. I do think you’re on the right track with the temp circuit however, the O2 is just something you might want to experiment with since it’s quick. Pin 13 looks like it needs to be common ground for multiple points, so if pin 13 on the harness doesn’t have continuity to ground then I would trace that wire all the way to ground - Or temp ground the wire to ground and ensure 13 has continuity to ground. I’d also ensure the other parts of the diagram are also having good ground continuity. Rabin

You can also use some booster cables to run additional grounds just for testing purposes. “Grounding kits” are often advertised, but easily replicated. Additional grounds will never hurt anything, but like you I’d rather troubleshoot and find the issue rather than run more wire. Great job on troubleshooting so far, definitely seem like you’re on the right track. Can you confirm the car runs the same with O2 connected or disconnected? Is it a 3 wire or 4 wire? I only mentioned o2 just for troubleshooting - I once had a poor running car and unplugging the 02 fixed it. Temp and O2 are both capable of running an engine rich… Rabin

Welcome to the forum! Have you checked the timing? Is timing advancing with revs? How are the plugs? Cap and rotor? Plug wires? Valve adjustment? I always try to do a proper stage 0 just to make sure all the critical unknowns are known good. Definitely check the battery to block ground connections as well as the body to battery grounds. Maybe try unplugging the temp sensor, and the O2 sensor to see what it does. Have you verified the air filter assembly is all good and flows well? Fuel pressure at the rail? Ive never had the ZDJL, but these are pretty simple cars. Shouldn’t be too hard to get it sorted. Rabin

Wow - Ray Bell is a legend - I remember him and his posts on Aussiefrogs site. Any chance he has his tour plans somewhere? Unlikely he might be passing through Regina SK, but would be cool if he was within meeting distance at any point of his travels. Figure any progress is great progress Mike - do you think you’ll be close to first fire soon? Rabin

That’s awesome! Was Ray a Peugeot enthusiast in the area or is he a friend / acquaintance? I ask because it’s kinda of a Peugeot enthusiast thing to do even if he didn’t know you, but was following along with your progress and happened to be nearby. :) Rabin

Probably no where near the correct size, but it caught my eye! https://youtube.com/shorts/XmSykQdr1F0?si=N5sZM03Tpi9aYTTf

Curious why they didn’t run sprockets and chain to drive the injection pump? Good thing you have choices, but I assume worst case if the belt has an issue you just loose fuel and nothing catastrophic happens to engine correct? Rabin

Love all the pictures! I’ve always had good luck with heavy grease in the pilot bearing hole, and then used a tight fitting socket, with extension in through the hex so the end is flat. A very hard first hit with a hammer and it usually pushes the bearing out. It sometimes take refilling with grease a few times, but usually works. Rabin

Will you get the car rust treated in the cavities as well as a precaution? Definitely does look like it’s in excellent shape and just some maintenance to keep it that way. Rabin

505 sedan and wagon differential internals (ring and pinions) are supposed to be interchangeable as well. I’ve never done it, but I’ve heard it done from wagons to sedans for rally cars to get higher ratio gearing. Rabin

Same spark plugs as a sport bike so that should help find an adapter. Cbr600f3 used the same 10mm plugs I believe. Keebs slotted his cam gear and said it was fine, there’s a friction disk that would help if you can get the right size: https://wctperformance.ca/ie-ekagrip-vw-audi-4-cylinder-cam-gear-friction-disk/ Would also use Nord-lock washers on the bolts to be extra sure. https://www.nord-lock.com/en-us/nord-lock/products/washers/ Rabin

Is that with the tensioner functioning? Was the head milled at all? Retarding the cam would do exactly what you’re experiencing, I just can’t say how much it would affect it. (Starts and idles well, moves power band down in rpm, runs out of poop higher in rpm.) On my car with 12 psi and timing set to 12 degrees it would buck violently on boost. Timing back to stock and ran perfectly. I would never be able to run that much timing. You could try moving one tooth ahead on the crank into the mix to see if a combo of crank/cam teeth moves gets you closer. Failing that - could see about slotting the cam gear mounts to that it’s adjustable. Definitely seems like cam timing could be your issue… Have you done compression test? Valves adjusted? Rabin

I wonder if the Cam is a tooth off - that would skew everything as well - one tooth retarded would likely give you the symptoms you’re experiencing power wise, and advancing the cam just lessen’s the effect… Rabin

These cars HATE advanced spark. I used to bump spark as well, but it ran SO much better at stock advance (8 degrees), with the tps adjusted. Advancing the timing so much will/should effect idle. So if you’re running 20 advance and have proper idle (900 rpm?) it’s way off ideal. I’d recommend setting timing to stock (like exactly), adjust idle, and recheck TPS readings, then retry. FWIW - Bumping timing is an old school trick on cars without ECU’s - I used to race mine a lot (rallycross and autocross) and it ran best with stock setting and the TPS NAILED for adjustment. Definitely wouldn’t be messing with big timing (or boost increases) unless you had EGT and WBO2 monitoring things. Rabin

Does the timing stay static (8 degrees) when engine is revved? Have you done the TPS adjustment and is it still in spec? Cylinder compression on all 4? Does boost build slow or quick? And what psi is it hitting? Rabin