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Jayden M

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    North Carolina
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    Trying, but failing miserably to fix a 405 and 505

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  1. V6 5sp, those are incredibly rare arent they? Are they running & driving? My first bushings to go out on all of my 505's were the front sway bar bushings - making rattle noises in every corner. Eventually my sway bar came disconnected while driving.
  2. Cloth interior is a win. For the fuel rail bolts and fuel pressure regulator it is a pain. I tend to get at most of the bolts from the passenger side though. Good luck getting it running.
  3. Welcome to the forum. Asheville is not too far from me. Happy to see another living 505 in the state.
  4. Well that will cause a major power loss... Wastegate is set to around 6.5 PSI. I unplugged the overboost connector to check the base boost pressure, and its 5 psi lower than stock boost (11.5). When plugging in the overboost connector, the car goes up to around 8.5, with occasionally hitting 9.5. So overboost seems to be working, giving a 2-3 PSI increase in boost. What is it like to adjust the wastegate actuator on this car ?
  5. Just to be sure - when rotating the engine by hand, I should go clock-wise?
  6. Ok Im about ready to unbolt the automatic transmission from the N9TEA motor, where is a good spot to place the floor jack under the transmission while I unbolt it or is there some other good method to hold/balance it?
  7. I unplugged the connector for Variable steering under the battery, and it did make the steering lighter at speed, but did not fix my shaking wheel issue at low speeds. What else might I look at? The type of fluid maybe? Im using ATF synthetic Dexron IV, while before it had non synthetic. This problem did only occur after I replaced a power steering hose and fluid flushed. I wouldn't think the rear suspension as the noise as it's easy to hear thats its coming from a bit behind the engine. I'll give the torque tube a few more squirts today if I have time.
  8. Excellent work! Glad to know another 505 turbo is alive again. I believe 86/87 has faster spool times than other years due to a smaller turbocharger.
  9. does FSM stand for factory service manual? It does not have any instructions sadly. All the information I used is on http://peugeot505.info/files/manuals/tt-sd-nsd_15-5.pd. 10-15? I was told by grubbs just 2-3 or I risk flooding the torque tube with grease. Another thing I forgot to mention is that under full throttle load the transmission sometimes has a split second hiccup going from 1st-2nd (its rare though). OH! and the noise from the transmission is ONLY while under load. Its noise free while off throttle - thought maybe this could mean something... maybe
  10. I did give the torque tube a few grease squirts a few months back, I think 2 or 3 with a grease gun. Maybe it needs more? I had the car lifted in the rear at one point to find the noise and it only starts at a certain mph speed, regardless of gear. The sound is more of a rusty rotor type of noise than a whine. I just plan to replace all of the transmission parts, since this car had been heavily abused anyway. As for the pin out box - its got connectors for ABS pump and ecu, power steering ecu... all the ecu's and some various sensors. Plus it has all that for 505 and 405. Most likely it came from Joe Grubbs & his shop. And its nice that the shop manual pin out #'s actually match what I have And as a major bonus you can use it while driving for live data!
  11. I have been doing a lot of work lately with this car. I decided not to manual swap it, because I have decided to buy another 89 turbo , to modify. (no it does not run) Using a Pinout box I found for ALL the computers in these cars I have been able to test loads of stuff easily. Very nice testing tool, I was able to find that the front right wheel sensor was making my ABS light come on I also put brand new michelins all around. With the ABS now working I can say that the stopping power of this car is very good. I have started tuning the engine with all the manual specifications. I'v tested sensor ohm readings on AFM, temp sens, thermotime switch, fuel injectors/resistors, altitude sensor, etc. I found the injector circuit resistance out of spec - was supposed to be around 6 ohms, but I get a reading of around 240 ohms. I checked the injector resistance pack, and all are good, not sure what else is in that circuit to cause this. Other than that everything else was within spec Tested fuel pressure and flow. The pressure regulator was baaadly broken. It was leaking pressure horribly out into the intake manifold. This was also the cause of my hard cold start issue, it was flooding the engine as the pressure seeped into the intake overnight. Im using a spare FPR, which is mostly within spec apart from it having a small leak into the return line. I was unable to find specs for the TPS, but I will be checking the timing later this week. Currently the only thing wrong with the car is the shaking wheel at low speeds, will unplug the variable assist connector as you all have suggested to see if that does something. Another thing I worry about is the transmission - at 40 mph+ it has a bit of a whining/whistling noise. Its always had this for me, but its the noise dad remembers from so long ago. I have a spare automatic transmission I plan to replace it with during the summer. Would love to get the A/C working but don't know where I can get R12.
  12. Found the issue using shop manual, and pin out box tester. No voltage during the test pictured. I have no idea where those wires are as the numbers are always worn away at this age, but I will try to test continuity of these wires. Most likely its the hardest part to get to that is actually bad. Anybody have experience with replacing an ignition switch? How much work am I getting into to replace it? Also how is it the car still starts with no power to the ECU?(These days it only rarely even starts up, and always dies immediately) (the shop manual bits I have only show tests - not how to remove the parts) Thanks - Jayden
  13. I think V6 had different relay location than the other models... Im thinking above the fusebox behind the driver side strut top. Probably a few there, hard to say which is the relay for the fuel pump, just make sure they all work I guess.
  14. This should be link to fuel system information for V6. Wiring diagrams included. Looks like there are 2 relays that need to be working - main relay and fuel pump relay, and then fuel pump fuse. http://peugeot505.info/files/manuals/tt-sd-nsd_15-5.pdf
  15. Been a while - Never did find the issue, because it will no longer even stay running. Starts up just fine, but then dies just a second or two after. Occasionally it will barely stay running at around 450 rpm. I did a bit of testing and it seems to be Lean condition. If I spray carb cleaner into the intake it smooths out, or if I hold the air flow meter flap open a bit it will smooth out engine running. It sounds like to me it would be an intake leak, but I could not find one. I think the fuel amount is where it should be, but to much air is entering since when I get the air flow flap held in the right position the idle is pretty high (but runs smooth), which also suggests its an intake leak. Need an easier way to find intake leaks.
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