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Everything posted by Bean

  1. Hi Todd, Love the diagram - that shows some dedication! Signal lights inside are supposed to blink together. Makes total sense really as you’re the one signaling so you don’t really need confirmation you did it correctly... Will see if I have the series 1 TD electrical manual in digital or paper form - If I have either I’ll post it up. As for the traces they can be fixed with wire bridges soldered to the trace. The biggest electrical issues these cars have are related to unsealed electrical connectors and corroded grounding trees that were used throughout the car.
  2. I used to daily my 89 505 Turbo in winter on some incredible ContiIceContact studded winter tires. Ridiculously fun car in the winter, but the best ever was doing a winter rally cross where I beat 18/19 of the local Subaru club guys. This was made even more insulting for them as the car had two kid seats in the back... I’ll have to talk to my buddy to see if he still has these or if I downloaded them - Stupid Photobucket: Rabin
  3. I pursued having them machined into something useful and I even had a good friend that had a wheel machining / restoration business and he simply refused. Not enough meat in the lips to machine down to 15”, didn’t look like a good fit to machine them into wheel Centers. He said it’d be much better and stronger to use forged billet blanks and machine centers rather than using old cast aluminum. Some guys in Australia machined the wheel center out and then welded them into the alloy bells of a Nissan wheel - looked great, but he didn’t want to do that either. He made some good po
  4. Haha - That’s how it starts... These things are insidiously addictive, but is a good way. Rabin
  5. Hi Stafford, The center caps, and the lug nuts are common to all 505 wheels, but the metric rims themselves are a tough sell. If you don't get any offers I'd suggest selling the caps and lug nuts separately, and then recycle the alloy rims. When I took mine in I got $50 - better than throwing them out. Rabin
  6. Fantastic find Todd - And welcome to the forum! The early series 1 505 TD cars are pretty great. I used to and still kinda prefer the the later interiors in 86+ cars, but the simplicity and clean design of the early cars is growing on me a LOT. And 60K on it makes it barely broken in in - some would argue it hasn't been... What are your plans for it going forward? Rabin
  7. Videos are pretty bad quality, but this was in the early years of digital video technology! You're 18 though so it should be OK if you find out that there might even be some street racing documented! lol I just installed at new feature on the site called Downloads - I still need to figure out how I'm going to organize the content, but I've got a ton of data to make available to members here, but there should be a ton of documents that will help you out. I've never driven a 405 in anger, but I think they're the better pavement handling car. I'm more of a 505 guy, and while 505's ar
  8. Way too far away to even consider, but I’m guessing little to no rust? Glass good? Paint is toast but seems like a decent candidate to save as it looks well sorted mechanically and the MANUAL series 1 XN6 wagons are very rare... Hate to say it - But it’d be worth decent money to an exporter that is sending cars to Africa - Might be worth checking into. Rabin
  9. Damn - You’re not having any luck with seals! I have to say I was very impressed with the pace you had getting it sorted - well done. Curious what the winter car plan is? Will the Mi16 get stored or will it get some winter tires? My R on Hakka9 studded tires is the best winter car I’ve ever been in. Rabin
  10. Welcome to the forums Jayden - Tell your Dad I said hi. He and Joe Grubbs were/are legends from back in the day. Pretty sure I still have video of your Dad doing burn outs in Blackie. We're pretty biased about how fantastic these cars are - but you can believe Vin Wiki: I have Blackie's twin - can't remember if it was Auto or Manual - but I think it was a manual? Feel free to post up pics and post up threads on each car if you want. Will do our best to help you get them going. Really great that you've taken this on and will be trying to get them going again.
  11. I think your oil temps are fine - you're running a decent synthetic and it's running under 300F - I confirmed with multiple sites referencing 220-240F being optimal for oil temps as that's when the oil has it's best characteristics and the least amount of parasitic loss. Over 240F is still safe to 300 - they just advise that extended temp intervals shorten the life of the oil. Initially I thought the car was reading incorrectly, but now it's probably best that it's not! Still worthwhile knowing what temps you are hitting for sure, but it's likely by design. Fun fact: I was curious
  12. Was surprised it went for as much as it did - Hopefully the new owner posts about it and it's resurection! Rabin
  13. Bean

    Need tiny dog-bone

    Sorry Koll - Did you ever get this sorted? Rabin
  14. As discussed you first need to make sure you’re working with good data - Doesn’t take much to skew a sensor reading. Temp sensors usually have ohm ranges depending on temps to ensure they’re calibrated properly. Stated value: Up here we can’t get stated value unless it’s been professionally appraised for that amount - Is that not the case with Hagerty? Rabin
  15. So oil free now, and I assume no codes? Does the car feel any quicker? Rev faster? Better MPG? Any other plans for it modification wise - Or just keeping it OE and pristine? I'd also HIGHLY recommend getting it appraised and insured for stated value if possible. The vehicle registry on this site was set up to hopefully become a repository of vehicles for insurance purposes. If a bunch of us get cars appraised and valued PROPERLY - it'll make it easier for others to get appraisals, as well as have solid arguments with insurance companies in worst case scenarios. Rabin
  16. Hopefully you knew just because of the recent work? It can be tough when doing a LOT of work and fixing years of deferred maintenance and just plain dodgey previous repairs - Temptation to start blaming the car for the issues tends to start surfacing. Should be fairly straightforward replacing the seal - hopefully replacement seals go in without issue. BTW - what gear oil were you running? Rabin
  17. It seems odd to me that the oil temps would be higher than coolant temps, which is why I'm thinking it's a gauge issue... I'm assuming coolant temps are all good? Rabin
  18. Wow! Doesn’t get any better than that for an old part... Rabin
  19. First thing I'd do is make sure you're using known good data - doesn't take much to throw on a temp sensor, so I'd use something that you know is known good to get accurate oil temps. I've got a thermal camera that would likely be far more accurate for a quick reading just to make sure you're in the ball park. I'd be willing to bet that it's a temp error rather than actually running high oil temps. Up here if I was driving in winter / cold temps I'd want a thermostatically controlled oil cooler so that oil temps didn't get too cold! As for your Lotus - I believe they have a prett
  20. Two of the best sports sedans from their respective eras, and both generally under appreciated by the masses... Truly special to those that know what they are though! I always take in the amazing sight lines in the early cars - everything is slim and purposeful. Rabin
  21. Thanks: Having these kinds of threads troubleshooting issues is exactly why I’ve kept this forum going. Seeing you being able to get your car going with input from enthusiasts around the world is what I just can’t let the site go. We don’t have a crazy amount of traffic but it’s still one of my favorite online places to spend time. Oil temps: As long as you’re running synthetic I think you should be fine - I personally run AMSOIL, Redline, or “German” Castrol synthetic in my motors. Became a full believer when I was a rally crew chief racing in the mountains in 40C heat. Wil
  22. If you can find someone that does vapour blasting - there’s likely nothing better. Google it - the result makes the parts look new. Rabin
  23. Congrats! Can’t wait to read the report from its next shake down run. If it is fixed - Who wins the diagnosis sweepstakes? I believe I suggested checking injectors on 06/15 and on 06/25 figured injectors 2 & 3 had to be the cause of the fouling plugs. Did I win? Rabin
  24. Fuel rail cleanings are - at best - only good for regular maintenance, same with the in tank cleaners. The only proper way to clean them is to do what you're doing now. Once clean they should be able to ensure they've got nice spray patterns, and ideally are matched flow wise as well so that they're all within a certain cc/min. The condition of the injectors, and the fact that 2 & 3 were also the plugs fouling means this looks very promising as the root cause of the issues. My guess was that atomization sucked bad, so at low RPM it wouldn't burn as well which caused the O2 CEL - als
  25. Have you thought about block paint colour? I tried researching to see if Peugeot had some sort of code or system for engine block colours but never really found anything definitive. Was really after seeing if Peugeot Sport did anything special on the race cars... Rabin
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