Bean

505 sedan and wagon differential internals (ring and pinions) are supposed to be interchangeable as well. I’ve never done it, but I’ve heard it done from wagons to sedans for rally cars to get higher ratio gearing. Rabin

Same spark plugs as a sport bike so that should help find an adapter. Cbr600f3 used the same 10mm plugs I believe. Keebs slotted his cam gear and said it was fine, there’s a friction disk that would help if you can get the right size: https://wctperformance.ca/ie-ekagrip-vw-audi-4-cylinder-cam-gear-friction-disk/ Would also use Nord-lock washers on the bolts to be extra sure. https://www.nord-lock.com/en-us/nord-lock/products/washers/ Rabin

Is that with the tensioner functioning? Was the head milled at all? Retarding the cam would do exactly what you’re experiencing, I just can’t say how much it would affect it. (Starts and idles well, moves power band down in rpm, runs out of poop higher in rpm.) On my car with 12 psi and timing set to 12 degrees it would buck violently on boost. Timing back to stock and ran perfectly. I would never be able to run that much timing. You could try moving one tooth ahead on the crank into the mix to see if a combo of crank/cam teeth moves gets you closer. Failing that - could see about slotting the cam gear mounts to that it’s adjustable. Definitely seems like cam timing could be your issue… Have you done compression test? Valves adjusted? Rabin

I wonder if the Cam is a tooth off - that would skew everything as well - one tooth retarded would likely give you the symptoms you’re experiencing power wise, and advancing the cam just lessen’s the effect… Rabin

These cars HATE advanced spark. I used to bump spark as well, but it ran SO much better at stock advance (8 degrees), with the tps adjusted. Advancing the timing so much will/should effect idle. So if you’re running 20 advance and have proper idle (900 rpm?) it’s way off ideal. I’d recommend setting timing to stock (like exactly), adjust idle, and recheck TPS readings, then retry. FWIW - Bumping timing is an old school trick on cars without ECU’s - I used to race mine a lot (rallycross and autocross) and it ran best with stock setting and the TPS NAILED for adjustment. Definitely wouldn’t be messing with big timing (or boost increases) unless you had EGT and WBO2 monitoring things. Rabin

Does the timing stay static (8 degrees) when engine is revved? Have you done the TPS adjustment and is it still in spec? Cylinder compression on all 4? Does boost build slow or quick? And what psi is it hitting? Rabin

Peugeot’s never had lift pumps, just a primer on the filter head. Definitely want to do a lift pump and a modern filter head on my cars though - Just haven’t figured out what that looks like yet. Rabin

I’m reading them! (I wish I knew the secret to attracting people that prefer forums…) I tried a buddy’s vacuum bleeder and I might need to get my own now - super slick and supposed to eliminate the need to burb the cooling system. BTW - My stuff has been dormant so long my wife has asked me to start getting rid of them. So I had to double down and make shit happen instead - I’ve been acquiring more goodies for some thread resurrections this Spring / Summer. I will have to pare down the projects, but think combining rather than just decommissioning.

Engine sounded nice - Why did you think it would cause damage? Adapter and flywheel set up looks great - Pressure plate and clutch look massive! Sorry - I may have misunderstood your pump request. Pump timing is adjusted by clocking the injection pump, but never heard of measuring pump pressures on the car. Most diesel heads I know advise timing by ear on older cars, but pump pressures aren’t really a concern unless your injectors aren’t firing properly as they’ve got set pop pressure that has to be hit before opening. Rabin

Pictures? And what Bosch pump do speak of? Factory cars don’t have a lift pump, but one might be fitted. Rabin

I can’t help either as mine are assembled. @wadehilts

Could you machine bolts to a point and then thread them into the holes? That way you could use them into the holes and then transfer them to a sheet of plywood or something similar. Might work for the crank center as well in relation to the block pins. Once marked - should be easy to measure accurately… Rabin

Wow - That sounds like even more work to fit the flywheel to the XD3T crank. Are you welding up the center mounting holes and machining the center to fit the crank then? I admire the ingenuity - but I’m lazy so my mind would go to finding a manual trans diesel parts and then adapting the driveshaft to suit Have you worked out the gear ratios and final drive? Diesels rev a fair bit lower and don’t usually work well with gas engine gearing. Rabin

Scan just makes it dead simple to get all sorts of other measurements in one shot which would make it easier to ensure the clutch is going to work at the transmission is spaced properly. Did engine come with flywheel? Will you use the dodge friction disk with the Peugeot pressure plate? Peugeot Holm in VT might have what you need. Rabin

Sorry - Don’t know of any that would exist. Easiest would be if someone local to you could scan it - Even some newer phones have the ability to scan. I do have to ask if it would be easier to use the Peugeot transmission and adapt the driveshaft instead? Rabin

Pretty sure Volvo uses Tachymetric relays: 85’s also had an issue with the ECU that prevents start, and it needs a repair to the board. Repair escapes me but if you search the site I’m pretty sure it was posted. Rabin

Hi Goce! Another one you might consider is one called Speeduino: https://speeduino.com/shop/ There’s also a CDN one called SDSefi http://www.sdsefi.com/specific.html much simpler, but since the Niva isn’t boosted this could be all you need. I will have to go though my stash as I had plans for doing a modified turbo gas wagon, but I need to cull my projects and just focus on the coolest combos. Rabin.

The fun is in the details when going through and properly sorting out a car. I wish I had more time for it, but my new year hope is to make time for it! I’ve neglected my cars/projects far too long and I sadly have to do some culling, but hopefully by narrowing the number and scope will make them achievable. Seeing updates from others is a huge part of that motivation - so thanks for keeping us updated! Rabin

Welcome Armando, A picture would help as you don’t specify which warning lights. Normally any warning light is because the sensor connects to ground when it reaches its set point, so the wiring could be grounding somehow. There are grounding trees on either side of the radiator, and 505’s are notoriously bad for poor grounds that can often cause all sorts of gremlins if other circuits find ground incorrectly. Rabin

Any updates? Up until now this was one of the only Mi-16 RWD into a 505 that I’d ever heard about - until today: http://www.speedhunters.com/2023/11/perfect-pair-the-sonny-works-peugeot-505s/

Thanks for the updates! Love the mid wing on the S4, and amazing to see how nice the dash/interior is! Looking forward to hearing/seeing what you find in the red 405 when you tear into it. Rabin

Hi Bob - Sent you an E-mail, not sure if you got it? Rabin

Wow - 13yrs! They are amazing cars, but wow does time fly… Did you ever do the swap to the xn1 in one of your cars? I thought it was your v6 car, but could be mistaken. Thanks for the update! Rabin

Side skirts look similar to the ones they did on the 89+ 505’s we got in North America. Widened wheels look great - hopefully the outer bead seat is still smooth? How wide are they now? Rabin

Welcome to the forum! We never got the 208 in North America, but the running rough sounds like it could also be caused by the fuel filtration system. You might also want to check your vacuum pump since that might not be allowing the cruise control to work properly since it’s likely cruise is still using a vacuum diaphragm? That’s just a guess… Definitely weird that it’s the cruise control that is the symptom, and the only thing I can think of for Cruise to work properly would be vacuum. Rabin