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Everything posted by Bean

  1. No response from Miles yet, but will keep you posted if I do. Rabin
  2. Does the front have arch trims? On second look they are wider than I first though, and that 205 SRDT is pretty choice looking. Tough call! Rabin
  3. If it were mine: I’d delete the rear arch trim, and paint the belt line mouldings body colour. The black trim ages the car a lot, and I think body colour just fits with the cars look better. If the plan was to change the looks to be more of a restored stock look - I’d still delete the rear arch trim ‘cuz it looks like a Pep boy’s stick on piece, and the front arch doesn’t have anything. Rabin
  4. Cool - Now I know what the 176* tag means on the side of the motor, but I think the 86+ cars here were all X - 7.5:1 Question for you VM - Have you ever seen a way to associated the engine to the VIN? Many other cars will state “numbers matching” - but I don’t think Peugeot had anyway to verify an engine belonged to a VIN. Rabin
  5. I'm not much of a web guy, but I've been able to muddle my way through keeping this site functional - So I sent Miles a message to see if there might be anything I can do to help out. Web support can be stupid costly, and super frustrating if you're not familiar with it. I'm tech savy, work in IT, but it's still such a steep and frustrating learning curve! Rabin
  6. I'd disconnect and connect 12V manually to ensure the solenoid is working - there'll be silence when you do it and much easier to hear and feel. Should be easy to unscrew and check that it's working for sure if there's still doubt. As for the filter with primer pump - if the diaphragm is leaking then that pump won't work, and the injection pump won't get any fuel. My 86' TD 5sp sedan is doing this now, and I have a new filter head to go on without the coolant heater in it which means I need to do some re-routing to clean lines up. Car will never be a cold weather car so I'm just going to delete the heater circuit. I've actually got some great reference material for diesels that JoE has sent me as I'm working on redoing the tech files section on the forum to make them easier to find and download. Will send you some that will likely help you out as well, but having a printed copy is pretty nice too. Rabin
  7. https://www.gullwingmotorcars.com/1967-peugeot-404-cabriolet-c-3991.htm Not a lot if info, just some pics:
  8. As long as they're aware you're open to improvements I'm sure they'll suggest similar unless it's pretty good out of the box. Are they doing the complete rebuild and reassembly as well? Or just machining and you're assembling? Rabin
  9. I'd suggest a 3 angle valve grind, match porting the intake and exhaust manifolds to the head, and a very mild port just to smooth things out. It's astounding how much efficiency can be gained with just some simple tweaks to a stock head. Are the pistons pretty contoured? The head has no squish pads at all and looks to be quite recessed. Curious if the pistons come up above deck height much at all? Rabin
  10. The beauty of diesel is it's oily nature really protects the fuel tank so it shouldn't need much at all to get sorted. I'd put a pre-filter just before the main filter assembly just to catch any big stuff. I used one of these hand pumps as it has quite high suction and can surface any leaks in the primer easily: The fuel solenoid is here (6 cylinder but same pump really): Might be worth checking to make sure it's working, and the ignition should be on and this activated before doing the suction trick. Once you get some diesel purge into the injectors and the pump I'd let it sit a day before trying to get it to fire. I've also used ether very very carefully just to get them to fire and so it's not cranking for so long. Rabin
  11. Curious how the lip is being attached? And is it decent quality? I'd consider something similar for my 505 turbo for an added layer of scrape protection - plus it looks cool. Rabin
  12. What's the plan for the motor rebuild? Usually things like decarboning the combustion chamber would get done if you sent it in to get planed / trued up, and I'd think valve seat grind with valve lapping and valve stem seals at a minimum? Any other tricks? Rabin
  13. I’m not experienced with diesels, but I just love them! What have you done with the diesel in the tank? I’d drain and fill with fresh with some diesel additive before you start with anything. What I do to prime / test the system is to put one of those transfer / suction pumps on the injection pump return line. I then draw diesel from this line which pulls diesel through the system. If you use clear vinyl line between the injectors you can see them purge. Not only does this draw fuel through the whole system - but it also ensures there’s no leaks in the primer assembly. If it leaks it won’t feed the IP. If that checks out I’d connect the fuel filter outlet to the diesel purge can so that you pull diesel purge through everything. Let that sit in there for a day or so, then retry. I assume you’ve got power to the fuel solenoid? And fuel solenoid is working as it should? Tail lights: The absolute biggest issue with these cars are unsealed electrical connections, and bad grounds. Inside the trunk you can access the grounding tree in the inner quarter panel. Make sure all the connections are clean and wires in good shape. Tail light circuit boards are also complete crap - you can sometimes “tighten” the plug on the board with a thin bit of plastic (like credit card thin) on the opposite side of the connections to make the board thicker. Others have cut the ply entirely and soldered the wires to the board. Connections on the board can also be crap as can the bulb sockets. There’s also grounding trees under the hood on either side of the rad, and another on the steering column under dash. Consider ALL electrical connections suspect! I usually clean and tighten spade connectors, and then use dielectric grease to seal and protect them going forward. That should give a good start at least. BTW: Is this an auto or manual car? Rabin
  14. Apologies as the site would have gone offline shortly after you posted this! Car looks amazing, and I'm very glad it's fallen into an enthusiasts hands. Have you made much progress? Once we touch base on where you are now, I'd be happy to spit ball ideas. Talk soon! Rabin
  15. Bean

    Great job!

    Beautiful! That sound must be amazing - nobody does it better than the Italians. I've also had to take a STRONG hand with many of my parts I've horded over the years, but thankfully my friend Hugh is even more Peugeot crazy than I am, so I borrowed my sister's truck and a large trailer and I took all my PRV V6 stuff to him. Freed up a LOT of space, and thankfully I didn't have to throw anything out. I might have to give up on my diesel cars as well so I can properly focus on the turbo cars - but will make that call this summer. I've promised myself no more storing of cars - they either are functional, or I have space for them at home. Most important will be to finish my garage. I have a fair bit of work to do for the garage to be complete, but once done I'll be able to make great progress on my projects going forward. Very much looking forward to you getting back to your 505's V-M! I have you to thank as well as I was able to confirm with Art at ARP that the Porsche 944 ARP head stud kit 204-4211 will work on the N9TE with stock 944 head stud nuts like you did on your motor. (ordering the kit was way easier.) I now have a Cometic head gasket, and a set of ARP studs to install on my 505 Turbo SW8... It's also getting a simple standalone ECU, 465cc/min injectors, and a custom T3/T4 turbo... My 89 505 5sp sedan is getting the NEW stuff and will get worked on next winter if all goes with with the SW8. Rabin
  16. Bean

    Great job!

    V-M! So glad to have you post as well - It’s been a long time! I was actually debating on letting the site shut down, but I just couldn’t do it. I’ve since doubled down on even more cool stuff for my cars and I wanted to detail the builds here once I get my garage done. I think you’re going to like the new mods - I’m going all in as they say and upgraded the plan substantially. I promised myself that I won’t post anything until I’m actually working on the cars, but I’ve also got a new project that will be worked on first - It’s a locost v8 build with a Ford 302 and 5sp. Track only for now - but I cannot wait! The Peugeot’s will now be tow cars, but the 89’ will still see some track days. Rabin
  17. Ties: Washer pump was why I commented. Good to hear they're flush cut - looks so much nicer. Pictures: I can extend member capacity as needed - so giver beans if you want! (I'll investigate further as it might be better to create a new group with extended limits) I'd much prefer having the pictures loaded with the post simply to ensure continuity. It's a huge pet peeve when I find a cool post and all the picture links are dead, and I know from experience what a PITA it is to have to update a post to update the photo links - so I wouldn't really worry about updating them unless you really want too, but going forward please don't hesitate. Another option would be to upload to the gallery on the site as well, then link to those images. Might be a little easier that way - but not sure. Thanks, Rabin
  18. Bean

    Great job!

    Thanks Mike! Site was disabled by the host because of some server load issues, so I took took it as a sign that I needed to migrate the site to the new URL rather than restore the old URL. Plus it was great timing to start 2020 on the new URL! Hopefully there won't be much for issues, but so far so good! Even the e-mail notifications seem to be working better. Rabin
  19. Great update Mike! Quick tip for using zip ties - after they're tight use a sharp blade to slice the end off flush. Looks very tide and zero chance of scratching on sharp edges left by side cutters. I use zip ties quite a lot and love how tidy they can be while serving a function. Much nicer than metal spring clips. Also - I noticed you're using two different picture hosting sites for images - I know it's a hassle but feel free to upload pictures into the post as it always sucks when hosting changes and all the pics in a post disappear. Something to think about anyway. Rabin
  20. I didn't think they made a 505 turbo in 85' with an auto, am actually quite positive it was never offered. This is most likely an '86 car with the 4sp auto which would be the series 2 505 with the updated interior and 4sp auto. More details and some pictures would be great! Rabin
  21. Can't wait to see it with the Euro bumpers Savo! Will the wagon get the current bumpers from it? Rabin
  22. Great progress Mike! Is the rubber shift boot visible or is it the dust boot on the transmission tunnel? Rabin
  23. Hi all, I finally am able to announce that the migration from yahoo groups to the new Peugeot-L distribution list on canam-peugeot.com is a success. Big thanks to Senen and Radu for all the help, and to Hugh for some beta testing. All the historic content all the way back to 1999 is there in the archive, so I wanted to make the announcement and provide some instructions to subscribe. I've also included the welcome message on the description page which has some donation info provided for those that asked (and are most appreciated!). Feel free to make your first post an introductory post! If you have any problems at all just send me the e-mail you want to subscribe with and I can help you out. ------------------------- Peugeot-L first started way back in May 1995 as a means of communication for North American Peugeot owners wanting help, information, or just an exchange of ideas relating to all things Peugeot (but not limited to just Peugeot). Primarily made up of North American Peugeot enthusiasts, we welcome all Peugeot enthusiasts and have contributors from around the World. To join the new list you must first subscribe to it: (Receive list emails, read the messages on the web, or to message the list) Subscription: - http://list.canam-peugeot.com/listinfo.cgi/peugeot-l-canam-peugeot.com - Go to the center of the page to find the "Subscribing to Peugeot-L" section, and subscribe to the list. - You will receive a confirmation e-mail that needs to be acknowledged, and once it's verified you will receive a welcome message. - Once you receive the welcome message you will be able to send messages to the list e-mail. - Subscribers are encouraged to post an introduction giving their background and interest in Peugeot. - If you have a question to ask, or information to share, send a message to the list. Donations to help fund the new list can be made via PayPal (https://paypal.me/canampeugeot?locale.x=en_US) or via eTransfer (for Canadians) to [email protected] Thanks, Rabin 505turbo.com & Canam-Peugeot.com Administrator and longtime list member
  24. Peugeot wheels are lug centric, so while you could likely use those I’m not sure you’d be able to properly center them since they’re bolted to the hub from the back side. m14 would likely still be loose in the stud holes as Peugeot wheel studs have a decent sized splined interference fit. Ideally you’d need some conical washers or bushings that centered the m14 bolts when tightening the adapter bolts... These do look like a decent backyard adapters, but for $500 I’d want them done on a lathe and machined to center on Peugeot hubs. Rabin
  25. Bean

    The great 4G63 debate

    Dang - I didn't respond to Sava's last post... Poor guy was making 100HP at ~4250 RPM, and only has a 1500 RPM (6000 - 7500 RPM) of usable power band. Decent drag race car, but pretty much useless in every other aspect. I had to re-read this little debate, so much fun poking Savo. They really are great motors, I just think ANY big horsepower 4 banger is not very impressive because invariably they all become super peaky undriveable motors. I'm WAY more impressed with the 300 - 400HP motors that have huge power bands and are still efficient - They just don't get valued that much on the internets. Drove a Mercedes GLA 45 AMG with 375 HP and was astounded how much usable power it had - THAT was an impressive 4 banger. Rabin
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