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Everything posted by Bean

  1. Each gauge is basically in their own circuit, so while they may share a ground, they might not so I wouldn’t dismiss it being a ground issue especially in a Peugeot! Definitely check voltage changes when you do it however. Rabin
  2. Wow - it’s quiet. Do a voltage meter just to see if the voltage is dropping. Does it do similar when you turn your lights on? (Or any other high load?) Only other thing would be ground circuits. Making sure the grounds are all clean and in good shape helps all sorts of issues. Rabin
  3. I bet your battery voltage is dropping under load, which causes the voltage across the resistance of the sensor to change… Put a voltmeter on it and I bet it does a similar blip. Sound works for me btw. With engine running I’d wager it doesn’t move or move as much. Rabin
  4. Just make sure you measure piston protrusion as it was common practice to install the 3 notch gaskets by lazy mechanics who didn’t want to bother with measuring, or who would only stock the 3 notch. Just reiterating these warnings as they were drilled home for years on the Peugeot-L e-mail list. @wadehilts 22 ARP head studs would also be $$$$! I got some for when I do my N9TE but there only 10 - albeit 10x M12 which are pretty crazy strong. (Same size used in the Cummins and Ford diesel truck engines!) I think gaskets were the weak point on these, so a fresh gasket and clean mating surfaces should be fine for the power increases being sought. Rabin
  5. I asked about studs and was told not to bother because there were so many bolts used you’d never have to worry. If you do find some that will work however keep us posted! You might also want to try Cometic - I’ve got one of their HG for the N9TE and it’s very nice. Rabin
  6. Any hydraulic shop should be able to fix that hose no problem, just make sure they can do automotive PS lines as it doesn’t need to have the full on hydraulic hose that is very stiff and hard to move around. And yes - The car will surface all sorts of issues from sitting so long. Just keep an eye on the cooling system getting pressurized. That’s the first sign of a cracked cylinder head, and will often present with coolant leaks. Rabin
  7. Thanks for that - I was just curious If you searched and bought as Peugeot parts or if they were listed and available via LDV400 parts sources - but that answered my question as well. Prices sounded very cheap / reasonable, and they all look high quality. Rabin
  8. The only ones I saw were the VW guys that did mTDi conversions. They removed the electronic controller and had a fairly elaborate analogue system to actuate the vanes. IIRC the VW turbos were normally open and the controller closed the vanes for low down response. With analogue the needed vacuum to close the vanes, and boost to open the vanes. It wasn’t very pretty and tuning it to work well sounded like a nightmare. If a variable turbo was designed to be analogue that’d be great. Aftermarket systems I looked at just needed an RPM signal and a TPS rigged up to tell it throttle input - My XD3T has both, but the cost with the turbo I wanted was over $3K. Since the turbo I wanted (Holset he200vg) was heavily based on the TD04 turbos, I figured they would be a good fit / or a good place to start at least. Rabin
  9. I looked at a bunch of analogue control circuits, but with a computer controlled version they anticipated boost needs better so they had much better / wider boost control. Most of the VW IDI threads I followed found a well sized turbo was almost as good as an analogue controlled variable geometry turbo without all the added complexity. That said - the only ones I found were modified turbos that were computer controlled stock turbos originally. Are the turbos you mentioned manually controlled from factory? Rabin
  10. Hi Arthur, Torque will be directly correlated to boost, so the lower down you can build boost the better, but the problem with normal turbos is that faster spool means smaller turbos which will choke quickly. The TD04-13T that is being used should boost fairly quickly and still be able to flow throughout the power and, but the ideal for immediate boost and maximum torque would be to use a variable geometry turbo with a dedicated controller, so it just depends where your budget cap limit is. Once Wade confirms what the 13T is like however, it might be so good the variable geometry might not be needed. BTW -Where did you get all your engine rebuild parts? Rabin
  11. Congrats Jayden! That was a huge accomplishment to get a car that was parked that long back on the road. The 89’ doesn’t usually have an intank pump…. Pretty sure they got rid of it after 1988 - but don’t quote me on that. You may might want to put a fuel pressure tester on the line and make sure the fuel pressure regulator is working properly. Rabin
  12. The notch number corresponds to the amount of piston protrusion at TDC. So you’re supposed to measure how much the piston sticks out and order the HG accordingly. What I don’t know however is what the range is, or if you just order the gasket closest to but over your measured protrusion. Too thick and you drop compression and lose HP and efficiency. And welcome indeed to @luizsantana - Your English is fine! Thanks for joining up and sharing all this. Any chance you have a parts list with part numbers and such? And feel free to start a build thread if you want! It’s got a Peugeot heart so it works for me. (Or a link to an existing one if you have it documented elsewhere) Rabin
  13. Not a 405 guy either, but on the 505 is the same as the 309 - rad mounted temp switch. Jumpering the sensor to trigger the fans makes me question that however! Rabin
  14. The heater hoses go through a rubber panel and I’m pretty sure there are some blank spots that you can use. I’d also check near the throttle cable - or the wiring harness, and if you can’t sneak it through there’s a lot of space to drill a hole and use a new grommet to route anything you need. Rabin
  15. That’s weird - low fuel is usually an off switch when the pump can’t pick it up. Fuel tank is baffled pretty good around the pump pick up, so you might want to double check the wastegate works at least. Small air pump / tire pump on the wastegate line is all you need to make sure it’s opening proper. If all is good then yeah - gotta love the easy fixes! Rabin
  16. Torsen would have a green tag on the housing, so likely the older LSD.
  17. Congrats! Yeah - The manual wagons are going for STRONG money, but even the nice autos are climbing. I just finished a ton of work on my '06 V70R and it's such a special car, but the wife prefers the 535xi Touring so the R might get sold so I can get back into driving Peugeots. I fixed it like I was keeping it though, and I'm pretty sure I'll regret it instantly if I sell it! Wife wants me to keep it until Spring - so might do that. Rabin
  18. You’re likely over boosting due to a bad wastegate - the cut is likely the overboost working. The clank is worrisome - the pistons don’t handle overboost / lean detonation and will crack ring lands if it continues. Rabin
  19. Any chance you can do the oil drain line in metal? I’ve done lines with soldered copper before and it worked great - that way you can use 45’s and get a much better / higher drain path. If you have a welder handy you could weld up metal line to do the same thing. IC coolant - bleed screw will work for sure with a higher fill point, but I’d try to keep the fill point higher even if you need to put it on the firewall. Not a fan of systems that don’t self bleed, so ideally if you ran a tube from that location to your fill pot you’d be set. Rabin
  20. These are in Poland correct? Maybe someone in Europe would be interested, but shipping to North American would be quite cost prohibitive. Are you sure the 11x35 is correct? That’s a gear ratio of 3.18 which I haven’t seen before. Rabin
  21. Gorgeous car! https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1987-peugeot-505/ Figured the link would be handy - Pretty sure this was the car correct? BTW - Is that a 2004 V70R in the background? Rabin
  22. There’s an absolute legend of a gentleman in North Carolina that is swapping a modern Camaro v6 with 6sp auto into a 505 Turbo complete with front and rear suspensions, subframes and brakes. I was in awe of his work, and his ambition - But then he said he was in his 70’s I was just gobsmacked! I’ll get an update from him and do up a build thread for him. Summers are when he does lots of boating and such, so he only makes progress in the “winter” they have. If I was doing an engine swap like this, it really does become easier when you swap complete systems in rather than try to merge them. Donor car’s complete drivetrain is a lot easier to do rather than trying to figure out where to splice it in. Normally the driveshaft is a good place - but the torque tube eliminates that pretty quickly. It’s doable if course, but it’s not easy by any stretch. Rabin
  23. I’d recommend finding and using a donor car to make it as easy and cost effective as possible, and totally agree on keeping it RWD! @PhoebePeanut - you just can’t drop that swap info without your own build thread! To clarify though - The m73b54 is the 5.4L V12 motor, m51d25 2.5L diesel transmission from the e36 bolts on? v12 would likely indicate a drift car build, or some other racing? Or is it a show car build? Rabin
  24. You might want to try a 50/50 ATF and Acetone mix in the cylinders - I usually use ATF by itself if I don't have Acetone. Some good info in this link: https://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Freeing_a_stuck_engine Motors can come out with the trans attached if you unbolt the diff from the top mounts, and the torque tube at the transmission, and slide them back with the center driveshaft so that it's disconnected from trans. You then need to lift the car quite high so that you can tilt the engine and trans out of the car. You can also just drop the cross members with the suspension and engine attached, then lift the car off them if you have enough height. Rabin
  25. Tough call as it could have also had a massive overheat as well, but either way a replacement motor is likely the way to go. HG is supposed to be fairly easy to do, but you need to pull the head first to measure piston protrusion first so you get the right gasket. Lots of motors got 3 notch gaskets (thickest) out of convenience, but a fair bit of power is lost if a thinner gasket could have been used. Brian Holm is likely your best bet to have a motor shipped, otherwise isn’t just keeping an eye open for something local to turn up. Maybe put some wanted adverts up? Rabin
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