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LBC28730

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  1. Oh it doesn't run continuously, I may have said that wrong. Although it is supposed to be connected to accessory power, I have had it running always hot through the vacuum sensor. In theory this shouldn't be a problem as long as the system is holding vacuum, and it has. I replaced all the vacuum lines and check valves just as a matter of course. The only issue I am having is the relay, that I have to knock on to make it work when it needs to. This may be remedied when it has a solid mount and the vibrations could make it actuate as it should, but I am looking to just use a better relay that functions properly. I did replace and upgrade chassis to engine, battery to chassis and battery to block. Under dash grounds will be next and I completely anticipate that remedying my remaining issues. I'm not sure, what is it that you refer to as "core support"? As always, I greatly appreciate your input and insight.
  2. Ah ok, interesting. I just assumed when the light went out, they were up to temp. It also occured to me today I think the plugs are only actively heated until the engine is running? It never really occured to me before but if I'm not mistaken that's kinda of the point of diesel engines? This makes the manual GP setup make more sense to me as to it's simplicity on operation. The plugs are brand new. I do have a small leak at the pump over yet to address so I guess until that's done and I check the timing I can't rule anything out. I've been dealing with little things here and there like getting my turn signals to work consistently and other little electrical things popping up. I've found that if I want my fuel gauge to work, I need to not mess with the radio...... I'm waiting on a part for another car and when that arrives I'll be diving in fully to ask the issues with the 505. I'm thinking I may forgo driving it this winter if I don't fully sort out the fuel/starting/etc issues.
  3. I replaced the switch and the pump with the same ones. When it works, it works perfectly. I am now trying to sort out why it only seems to work intermittently. I feel it has to be something in the wiring so I am going to remove everything and reinstall, paying particular attention to splices and wire gauges. As I hadn't found a good switched source, I was finding initially that it worked great just wired directly to always hot power. When I wasn't driving, it wouldn't take much to create a vacuum and maintain it, as all the check valves seem to be fine. Then it seemed to operate intermittently, and and thought that it may be overworking the vacuum pump. I found that any time I could identify that it wasn't working, if I put power directly to the pump, it functioned, and the relay functioned as it should, as well. I am assuming there is something not completely connected in the wiring I created to make this work so hopefully after rewiring the whole thing, it will function properly and consistently. Once I get it sorted out I will post the whole process/diagrams.
  4. That angle makes them look much more out of spec than it really is. I was able to get this flasher for <4usd and it was in stock. I was able to only mildly bend the prongs in and then up again to be square, and it works fantastic. Through Advance auto the info is: Novita Hazard Warning Flasher Thermal Flasher Part No. 550
  5. I have yet to address my blower fan resistor issue, and have continued to use the POs setup of manual fan control, when needed. It works fine on "Hi", even though I have found they used speaker wire for the line to the manual switch. Regardless of that, I certainly have more critical issues to address. Mainly: - Instrument cluster lighting only works after car has been running for ~15-20 minutes (assume this is a grounding issue) - Factory head unit (radio) WAS working, but now only works intermittently, which I also assume is a grounding issue. - Fuel gauge ONLY stopped working earlier today but would come back to normal if I turned the headunit on and off ( lolol, I know, it has to be grounds) - All blinkers (directional, Hazard) stopped working (have replacement flasher module, looks the same but plug prongs will need to be modified) - have replaced the vacuum pump with an electric one which works fantastic, when it works. Still need to determine a dedicated Ignition "ON" circuit. FSM shows auxiliary power block behind the glove box but now that I have the lower dash exposed I will likely be able to find something closer to the drivers side. I HAVE considered having it always hot as, if the check valves are working properly, it should be fine. For convenience I may keep it always hot, for now. Posting link to the youtube of my underdash video, looks overall really good, one wire that was out of place that I will figure out. -power steering works, properly, but is leaking, somewhere. I haven't determined where, yet, and I have left the PS belt off, for now. - Inner tie rod on one side needs replacing. The car actually came with a set of complete inner and outers, just waiting to order alignment panels to do it myself, since no one wants to touch it, when I live. - Cruise control inoperable. - Wipers have stopped working. How it happened felt like a relay or ground, haven't had the time to address it yet. - Speedometer/odometer inoperable. Odometer reset seems very "jammed" so I would assume the assembly inside it damaged. I have yet to pull the cluster out as I was concerned it may create other drivability issues. Lower priority: - AC operational - Moonroof operation (I think I have this sorted but need to address the drains and seal of the panel)
  6. I would love to get a circulating block heater and make everything work properly, realistically, I think this is going to be something that is going to be put up until spring as the temperatures are beginning to approach the single digits (C) here and I am finding a lot of little electrical issues here and there. I'll update on my introduction thread regarding the peripheral issues I am dealing with, as they aren't related to the engine/glow plugs
  7. I wonder what the wire was from the alternator that went to that, when I was working out the alternator retrofit and it smoked. I've looked at my FSM and haven't found anything directly relative but I am not going to overthink something I will be getting rid of soon, anyway! I DO still have a decent leak at the IP so that could certainly be a factor and I can't rule anything out until I address that. I am working on having other "back up" vehicles before I dive into the IP on this one, as it is my primary DD right now. Interesting. So basically the box is just a timer? I have seen diesels for sale that say they have the manual update and they don't have this box. I guess the major difference is that you just turn it on and count enough to assume it's heated up? I wonder if the post MY82 had better wiring/GPs to justify such a huge drop in time required.
  8. With the manual GP conversion, I can eliminate the control box? I'm thinking about getting a coolant circulating heater such as the "zerostart". I'll look into the timing as well. I'm assuming no because everything is stock? With manual GP control I can eliminate that box altogether, I think? I'll be sure to check that connection when I do the individual leads.
  9. My 1981 505TD runs beautifully once it is going. When I first got it, it was a bit hard to start cold, and the PO was using starting fluid to get it going. Judging by my limited experience with previous diesel (VW AAZ), I figured that getting fresh glow plugs should sort that out. Unfortunately, it made little difference (high quality Bosch glow plugs). I've seen mentions about upgrades that involve individual lines to each GP instead of one shared lead but I haven't seen specifics of where anyone has done that. Would it be just literally running an individual lead to each GP from the point that they originate? I believe this is also relative to what people refer to as a "Manual GP" set up. I still have questions though. Would the manual set up still involve some sort of timer or would you just hold a button for a period of time? Although, unfortunately, my lovely Zoe is not running at the moment (starter wiring issues I think), this is something I really need to take into consideration as we begin to get into the colder months here in the mountains. What are the best options (I will still add a block heater for the winter) to make the XD2S most responsive to starting?
  10. Hey everyone! Just wanted to update that I did figure out the wiring for the battery warning light and the alternator retrofit is working perfectly. Unfortunately, I am dealing with a no crank right now (power to seatbelt warning, relay seems good, starter is good so somewhere in-between) but as soon as I get all that figured out and can get it actually running I will update with running voltage conditions and such.
  11. Unfortunately I don't have very good documentation on either the switch or the pump itself. The pump is an OE replacement used by various newer vehicles like Volvos and Cadillacs. I DID remove everything but since it never was working, not really sure how much difference there is. I'll have to take a recording once I get it all sorted out. It SEEMED to be sorting itself out but something has failed and it stopped working. I haven't had time to determine with it is yet. Could be anything from the relay to the switch or the pump itself. I'm going to try just switching out the relay today before I go anywhere and see if that makes a difference. It occurs to me that it could be something as simple as a check valve going bad and allowing the pump to run constantly while I was away, and burn out, as I still had it wired to always hot as opposed to accessory on. Furthermore, I'm having lighting issues again. I went through the front grounds and cleaned them up and it made no difference. I am pretty sure my flasher relay has burnt up bc it was acting funny during using the hazard lights, I could hear it buzzing and not fully engaging/disengaging. As I have NO turn signals or hazard lights at the moment, I'll address that asap. Side note/not electrically related, I DEFINTELY have a sunroof leak after taking the previous silicone off, which I completely expected. I can't seem to find a good diagram of the drains in the FSM. Are these as typically placed, on the rears of the sunroof frame, running down the C pillars? I have some ideas for the motor connection, maybe a shark bite type fixture. I also think I have a good aftermarket solution to make a good sunroof seal. I'll document it, if it works out.
  12. Good news! I was running the vacuum pump with constant power. My thought was I would disconnect it when I reached my destination, for now, until I replaced the switch. I forgot to disconnect it and a couple hours came back expecting it to still be short cycling and it wasn't. Turns out, it goes through a bit of that which seems unfavorable until it stops. Now it seems to shut down even faster, as I guess the action of the vacuum switch works better as it gets cycled more. I would call this install a complete success. Vent (climate control) selection is working whereas it was practically non existent before (vacuum actuation). I plan on going through and taking photos and putting up part information, so that others can do it as well.
  13. Made a substantially heavier block to chassis ground: I have 50' of this cable so I'll have plenty to make more.
  14. Oh yeah absolutely. I even considered adding to it but I don't think that will be necessary. Currently everything fits behind the reservoir nice and tidy. The pump pulls a vacuum but when it goes to shut off it keeps short cycling. I smoke and vacuum tested the system so there's definitely no leaks. If it's not a faulty switch I guess it could be that the pump just isn't compatible with that switch. Too bad they don't make an adjustable switch. I actually drove it like this and it works great but I'm sure the pump would burn out pretty quick.
  15. I could swear I found reference to using this particular pump in auxiliary pump applications but I can't seem to find it. Initial set up: Pump would run, pull a vacuum, but then stutter, as in cycling fast, when it appeared to be at full vacuum. After smoke testing the system for leaks, it appeared that the pump itself was leaking. I got a replacement pump and I am getting the same results. The pump itself has no sensor, it's just a pump. So, I think it has to be the vacuum switch that must be the issue. I have a new switch coming, if that doesn't work then I am going to just buy one of the complete kits from Summit or somewhere like that.
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