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SRDT

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  1. The 505 is at the end of the line, the drivetrain is shared with the older 504, 604 and also the Talbot Tagora. On top of that front suspension is special on cars with ABS.
  2. It's not hard to remove the ignition switch as long as the lock part is operating as it should. Remove plastic covers on the steering column, turn the key on the unmarked arrow and push the small dimple to pull the whole thing out.
  3. You said it yourself, it's not the right time to sell cars or car parts.
  4. Original fittings are nonstandard with a 10mm head and what looks like UNF threads... but maybe it's not. It could also be british whitworth threads or some kind of hybrid made with metric tooling but sticking close to either of the other two standards. Metric brake booster, brake discs and clutch discs diameters can be strangely not rounded with Ø178 mm brake boosters or Ø305 mm brake discs, convert it to inches and it makes sense with 7.00787" and 12.0079".
  5. Look for Citroën XM diagrams, same engine and not as hard to find: http://passionxm.free.fr/images/stories/documents_dossiers/GMP/prechauffage_electricite_CH51.pdf https://citroen.tramontana.co.hu/en/system/files/circuit_diagram.pdf
  6. Those part numbers are for ignition modules, they are triggered to fire the coil and may or may not be in charge of dwell control (coil charging time) depending of the model and application. On your car is it 0 227 100 128 or 0 227 100 123? Old 123 module have a blue cap and are made in germany but the newer ones are black and made in USA.
  7. I was talking about overboost like in the 405 T16: +20hp for 45s if you floor it and conditions are right. You need to floor it every 45s if you want 220hp instead of 200. I think the 505 has 180hp as standard unless the weather is too hot or you're using low octane fuel.
  8. On those early turbo cars the only overboost you can have is with a wastegate that is slow to close. The last models with EZK 200 ignition ECU have boost control but I don't know if they also used it for overboost.
  9. There is more than one ignition setup on the 505 Turbo engine. I think the first one just had a knock detection module. Later they added fixed advance on the distributor and two advance curves inside another module with a pressure switch to choose between the two. The last US models had a Bosch EZK ignition ECU like many Volvos and other turbo cars.
  10. You can try to power the starter with jumper cables, first with +12v then if it's not working try to ground the engine with the other cable.
  11. Try to swap the injectors, bad injectors can flow too little but also too much.
  12. The keys turn but that doesn't open the doors so it's not looking good. As for using silicone, on my cars I had much more succes using brake cleaner then dry lube spray.
  13. The old 2.0 OHV with iron block or the new 2.0 SOHC with alloy block? Do you know if you have a BA7 ou BA10 gearbox.
  14. Your 505 SX has a 1.8 I think, the easy swap is the 2.0 version of the same engine but that's only if you can find one. If you can't find another 505 with the right parts as a donor car even the 2.0/2.2 SOHC engine also used by Renault can be tricky because you won't have the right bellhousing.
  15. You can look for early US model headlights or Morette Euro model ones. US: Morette: US model must use sealed beams but it's easy to find "normal" halogen replacements.
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