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andrethx

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About andrethx

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    peugeot passionné
  • Birthday 03/28/1965

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    Los Angeles, California

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  1. it sounds like you've discovered that the 405 mi16 dipsticks (1172.99) are nearly unobtainium. NOS units show up on eBay UK and eBay France on rare occasion, but they are around US$100 (before shipping!) when they are available, instead of the usual $15-$30 for other 405 dipsticks. fortunately, spoox motorsports in the UK sells a reproduction that they say is a perfect match and made by the OEM (spoox has a shop on eBay UK, but the dipstick isn't sold there, only on spoox's own website). it's only £35, but once you add shipping, exchange rate, etc., it's US$82.89...I know this because I ordered one recently, I'll post about it when it comes in.
  2. hi PJ, welcome to the group as with a lot of things, the answer to your questions is, "it depends." leaving aside that this is a rare-in-the-US French car, it's a car that has been sitting for 20+ years, so getting it started up and running will take a bit of effort and skill. getting the car started (if it's possible) will be a straightforward project if you know what you're doing, and definitely a good learning experience if you're just starting out with European cars from this period. that said, what happens next depends on what was meant by "ran and drove" -- presumably the car moved under its own power, but did it have any mechanical problems that needed to be addressed at that time? for example, 505 turbos are known for having cracked cylinder heads (for a variety of reasons I won't go into here) and they can run with this problem though not very well. so like any old car, there may be mechanical problems that require lots of money and/or skill to fix to get the car fully sorted. I'm no expert on 505 turbos, but off the top of my head the main issues that people see are rust (probably not an issue in this case), electrical problems (old electrics that were not super-robust to begin with) and cracked heads; I'm sure others here can add to this list. as far as I know the 86 turbos have relatively few parts that are "unobtainium" and some of those can be repaired if no replacement is available. there's lots of information here on this forum and on other forums you'll find links to here; also, the factory manuals are still available and some of them are even posted online. as for parts, we get them from a variety of sources; we have vendors listed here who stock NOS parts, new aftermarket parts and some of them have parts cars to draw from as well. there are also vendors in Europe and elsewhere who have parts available as well. again, it all depends on what you need, how much you are willing to spend and how patient you are. like I said, there are others here who know lots more about 505 turbos than I do and I'm sure they'd be happy to answer any specific questions you have. to start out with, though, I know we'd all enjoy seeing pics of the car, so if you have a chance, please post some! outside, engine bay, interior, etc.
  3. I had a a problem with my car being hard to start; the solution ended up being a loose connection on the ignition module. I cleaned the connection and replaced it with a new one out of an abundance of caution, it's documented on my thread. in my case, the car was harder and harder to start until it wouldn't start at all. I don't think it was running roughly once it did start, but it's possible that your problem could be an intermittent connection somewhere.
  4. rob, I think the inside of the glovebox is actually flocked (excluding the inside of the glovebox door). there are re-flocking kits available from a number of places, it's certainly one option for refinishing the inside of one's glovebox. as for missing parts -- are you guys familiar with the Miami Stu website? he has posted nearly all of the 405 parts microfiche plates; there are two different sets of 405 fiches, of course you want the pre-1993 (series 1) version as that's what we got in the US & Canada. these scans are the international version, so not all of the north american-specific parts are in them, but it's still extremely useful for un-muddling one's car, finding parts, etc. he also has the 205 parts fiches there, fwiw here is the plate for the LHD car glove box
  5. hi joe I'm andre, I'm in Los Angeles and I own a 91 mi16 nearly identical to yours. I've been a poor member of the group for a few years now, and I've been meaning to resume posting but something always seems to get in the way. tonight I came to the site and read your build thread (nice!) and it gave me the push I needed to post again. anyhow, regarding the factory radio connector -- do you have any of the manuals for the 405? if not, I have most of them and I would be happy to send you a scan from the "405 Workshop Manual 1991 Electrical" showing the pinouts. but there is an easier way. you can buy a Peugeot 405 - to - ISO connector and use that as an adapter; it'll probably have to come from Europe (here's a link to one from the UK) but it'll make the radio installation much easier and cleaner. the one I got even had the wires labelled, but ISO wires are standard colors to it's pretty easy even if you get one that doesn't have the wires labelled. for example, on the one I linked to, the brown ISO connectors goes to the speakers and the black ISO connector goes to the car wiring...on the black connector, the red wire is + ignition switched, the yellow wire is + constant, the black wire is ground (earth), the orange wire is dashboard illumination and the blue wire is power antenna signal. you can just lop off the black connector and connect those wires to your head unit's harness. I'm connecting my head unit to an external amplifier so I'm not using the brown (speaker) connector, but if you're not using an external amp, the wiring on the brown connector is pretty simple: white pair = LF, grey pair = RF, green pair = LR and purple pair = RR (plain wire is positive and black striped wire is negative in every case). the orange connector that attaches to the Peugeot dashboard harness is keyed so it's impossible to get it wrong. hope this helps, happy to answer any questions
  6. welcome jmlabez, fuel senders for US 505s are difficult to find, since the fuel tank (and thus the sender) for US/Canada sedan models were unique. NOS senders are pretty much gone at this point, your best bet is to check with one of the parts guys in our vendor section for good-condition used. eventually, 505 owners are probably going to have to adapt something from another car or from a universal part. where are you in SoCal? I'm in west LA. you could check with Ukit in El Monte, he usually has wheels to sell. 642-442-3733. he may also have a fuel sender. andre
  7. here are the three pages from the "grounds" section of the manual: there isn't anything else that i can see in the manual that gives any explanation of the syntax (i.e., format) used for the names of the ground points. your suggestion that "H" stands for Habitacle (passenger compartment) could be correct because while HM3 is used mostly for the tail lights (feux arrières), it does ground one of the interior dome lights (lampe lecture); also, the other HM* grounds (e.g., HM5, HM7) are used to ground many interior electrical accessories. i don't know where the rear ground points (prise de masse) are on the 604, but i doubt they are in the interior, they are most likely in the trunk (boot/coffre) as you suggest, but maybe the "H" in the name refers to the function and not the location...just a guess... andré
  8. the 604 manual i have doesn't have individual diagrams for the 1982 but it does have the 1983s, which i assume are similar. here's the diagram for the turn signals, sorry for the shadows: unlike the 505 and 405 manuals that i've seen, the 604 manual doesn't have a separate table listing the location of the individual electrical components. the master schematic for these cars (too big to post, sorry) is only loosely "geographic," but it shows the flasher unit in the same general area as the dashboard instruments and switches; so my guess would be in the passenger compartment, behind or under the dash somewhere. the wire numbers are probably the same for your car, so worst-case-scenario, you could always trace the numbered wires shown here. it's probably a good idea to clean your rear ground trees while you're at it... andre
  9. i put the rear deck back in place recently: and i managed to get the rear deck brake light back together with an LED bulb inside; i had to switch the wires because the polarity was wrong for the LED bulb. i got a second rear deck brake light from ukit but it was also broken. between the two lights, i managed to get enough pieces together for one complete light but i had to glue it shut with the bulb inside. i re-installed the light but the results were disappointing -- only the left side of the fixture lit up, even though there are no obstructions inside the fixture that would cause this...i'm thinking that the philips bulb i used (you can see a picture of it, upthread) is oriented such that the light is not evenly cast inside the fixture...the solution to this is to use a different type of LED bulb, the type with LEDs festooned around the entire outside of the bulb -- something like this: however, my fixture is glued shut so i'll have to break it open or find another fixture (that'll teach me not to bench test, i guess). but at least for now i have a working rear deck brake light, and the fixture looks correct: over the last few weeks, i have been working on the rear speakers on and off. i returned the pioneer speakers and got a pair of infinity 6.5" speakers; they look like this: these speakers had the lowest "above-deck" height of any coaxial speakers i could find...component speakers have woofer/midrange would fit even better, but that would have required me to make new holes in the rear deck for the tweeters and i want to stick with the stock appearance. to make these fit, i had to modify the stock speaker mounting "basket" by making an inside "lip" by using my dremel tool. the first one came out pretty good, the second one was even better. i've got a little more work to do on the wiring, then i'll mount them in the car and move on to the next thing.
  10. aside from being busier at work these days (and the usual family obligations), i gotta say that the main reason i haven't been able to spend as much time working on my 405 as i would like is my passat. i got this car with the idea that i'd give it to my son when he got his driver's license (he's got a learner's permit now) and it's a good car, but there is always some little thing wrong with it. this car has a check engine light on 50% of the time, and it's always something minor. a couple of months ago, i had a check engine light when it was time to get the car smogged (emissions tested) and it took me a few weeks to get it straightened out and through inspection. i also got a new stereo head unit for this car with bluetooth and navigation as well as inputs for a backup camera. as part of the prep for that upcoming installation, i changed out the original antenna for an OE gps/radio antenna a couple of days ago.
  11. it really is a beautiful injection pump.
  12. new battery. this is the unit that the battery company specifies for my car but the hold-down bracket doesn't quite fit. i will probably add a bit of L-shaped rubber to each side to make the hold-down fit snugly
  13. got my battery tray back from the powder coaters (#savospec ), came out pretty nice. they did a good job of masking off the threaded parts the battery doesn't seem to be holding charge very well these days so i'll be replacing it soon. i've also got some new wiring on order, more on that later. with the rear deck panel out, i lubricated the trunk hinges with white lithium grease (thanks for the tip, goce ) i got some speakers, but they don't fit into the factory grill/speaker mount setup, so i'm sending them back for something else. i think i mentioned that my rear deck brake light was broken -- i got another one, but it is also broken. my "original" light was basically glued together with the original incandescent light bulb inside, so i decided to use the parts i had to do the same again, but with an LED bulb inside. i am still looking for a new or better-condition rear deck brake light, but until then i will have something that looks presentable and that functions. the bulb socket is hardwired to that part of the wiring harness, so gluing the light fixture shut means that the entire assembly is hard-wired to the car. so the first step is to add a connector so that i can change the fixture out easily when i find a replacement. andre
  14. i think arun went with 225s, IIRC he had to roll his fender wells. you may want to review his threads (links above)
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