andrethx Posted March 31, 2011 Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 been very busy with work so haven't had much time with my car. registered it as "planned non-operation" until i can get it smogged; if i registered it normally, i'd have only 30 days to get it smogged or something bad would happen. changed the oil & filter -- black, black, black. right now i'm using the fram filters from pep boys, since i figure i'll be changing the oil several times over the next few weeks while i sort things out. i have some of the nice purflux filters on order... also, pulled the gas tank & took it to the radiator shop for cleaning. lots of dirt & rust chips in the gas i siphoned out of the tank. as you can see from the pics, everything inside the tank was pretty rusted. a couple of questions for the group -- i'm thinking i'm going to go ahead and change the in-tank fuel pump now, while it's already out. the sock is shredded -- does the new pump typically include the sock, or is it usually bought separately? also -- what is this plastic check-valve-looking device, which is in-line on the pump side of the tank? should it be serviced/replaced? andre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N9TE Posted April 1, 2011 Report Share Posted April 1, 2011 Wow. I can't help but think most if not all our tanks/pumps look like that! I think we all have to do this sooner than later. Rather than get stuck on the side of the road. I'll have to put this on the summertime list of things to do. How tough was removing the tank? Don't know what that white thing is. Someone else here will know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted April 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2011 removing the tank wasn't difficult -- the hardest part was siphoning out the gas and disposing of the 2 gallons or so of nasty fuel in an environmentally responsible manner (took it to the place i bring my old oil). the part that i thought was going to be difficult, turned out to be easy. there is a rubber "bib" around the fuel filler neck, where it comes through the body...i couldn't see how it detached. turns out, it's nothing more than a giant rubber grommet. from the outside of the car, you can push it through into the trunk -- though i wouldn't recommend doing it unless you are removing the tank, because it would be difficult to fit from the inside -- the half of the grommet that goes outside is a larger diameter than the inside half of the grommet. i will leave it off when i re-install my tank, and then fit it from the outside after the tank is in place. my fuel lines were held on with those one-use type of hose clamps, the one strip that wraps back around on itself. i cut them off with a dremel with a metal cutting wheel attached. when i re-install, will replace them with regular hose clamps in stainless. here are the steps for removing the tank: 1) push the filler neck grommet into the trunk 2) undo the two top bolts on the tank and the bolt/strap below (13 mm socket w/extension) 3) detach the fuel lines, plug them up so you don't drip fuel in your trunk 4) work the driver's side of the tank out a few inches 5) tuck the fuel lines behind the tank so they don't get in the way 6) work the tank out from the driver's side -- pulling the tank out a few inches, then pulling it straight forward (i.e., towards you and towards the taillights) so you can get the fuel filler neck out of its hole. repeat until the tank is free and can be lifted out the fuel level sender and in-tank pump are held in the tank with goldish-metal lock rings; i found an old post on peugeot-l by peugeot pete that said there is a special tool to undo these rings, but that you can remove them by gently tapping them with a screwdriver & mallet so that is what i did, worked well. also on peugeot-l, i saw a couple of postings that referred to a claim by jim lill that he could remove a fuel tank in 10 minutes. it took me 40 minutes or so, but i can see how one could do a lot better time-wise if one had practice. andre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted April 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2011 mystery solved. this is the vent valve -- which makes sense, since it was attached to a brown clear vent tube that runs out through the car's upper vent panels (the black trim thing behind the rear passenger side window). Found a posting on puegeot-l by Michel Aube (message 77077) talking about it...can sometimes get clogged, causing problems with the operation of the in-tank fuel pump (cavitation). This is frequently caused by high-ethanol fuel, which attacks the rubber seal in the valve, causing it to deteriorate and clog the valve so that air won't move either way. So I'll examine the valve, and if it appears to be clogged, I'll replace/bypass/pierce it as Michel advises... Andre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted April 2, 2011 Report Share Posted April 2, 2011 No idea on the sock question, but I know there's a GM pump that's supposed to me a drop in replacement for the in tank, so hopefully it has a GM sock that you can get with it as well. One from a Vega comes to mind... For my 505T, I'm hoping to eventually replace the pumps with higher output units. Not sure what to use for the intank pump yet, but the main pump I want to use an 044 Bosch motorsport pump. A walbro 255L is what lots of guys use for the in tank - but still not decided yet. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted April 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 two more questions: now that the fuel tank is out of my trunk, i have easy access to the top of the top of the rear shocks. if i ever want to remove and rebuild/replace my rear shocks, now would be the time, correct? if i don't do it now, will i have to pull the tank later to do it? btw, in the foreground you can see the "standoff" for the fuel tank, there's another one on the other side. the fuel tank sits on them, it has a rubber pad on top of it. that brownish plastic tube hanging in the lower right of the pic is the tank vent tube, it attaches to the vent valve (see above). this is the area where the gas overflow goes down a drain tube (to the ground at the gas station, i guess); the tube is not connected to the "drain fitting" on the fuel filler recess panel. you can't see it in the picture, but i am holding the drain tube as far up as it will go (with my non-camera hand) and it is still short of the drain fitting. am i missing a piece or pieces? also, this pic shows my leaky hirschmann-knockoff antenna...sunroof motor would be here if i had one... andre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted April 4, 2011 Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 Technically - you can get to those rear shocks by removing the rear seat backs, peal the sound proofing back and you can access that nut from the hole you see above it. It's way easier with the tank out, and that rod can turn which can be a bugger. I used an impact on a parts suspension and the shock rod threaded out of the shock completely and the shock fell apart! So that's the set I'm playing with on seeing if I can rebuild / re-house them. Once you have the tank out once, taking it out a second time when you need to address the shocks isn't a big deal. They didn't look like they leaked at all - so they should be fine. Since your car is a GL - it's going to have the very soft spring rates, and likely not as stiff damping as the Turbo's. While I love the turbo's road feel - nothing will touch that GL on a rough road for comfort. As for that drain hose - it should go down into the fender, then out a hole at the very bottom. If you look under the car you should see it poking out - just push it through the hole from the outside in, till you can fit it on the hose. I'd also recommend those rear quarters are nice and clean. I washed mine out, ensured the drain holes were working, then used some rust protectant / inhibitor in there. Actually had the car Ziebarted - but I wouldn't recommend it at all. I've cleaned a lot of the goop they used out, and supplemented it with "corrosion 3000" or something from a can. Did the same on my 504 as well. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryancohnracing Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 Those pesky clamps on the fuel lines that had to be cut off are called Oetiker Clamps. I actually have the tool used to install them and some spares in stock for use on 1/2 ID oil lines from my Royale Formula Ford. The advantage of this type of clamp is its ability to cope with expansion and contraction. When installed the crimps become "spring like". I love that they never have to be retightened like hose clamps often do. They also do not mar or damage the hose in any way, where a hose clamp can. For your viewing pleasure, links to the Oetiker website: http://www.oetiker.com/content.asp?l=4&idNavig=28 (these are the type I have on hand) http://www.oetiker.com/content.asp?l=4&idNavig=446 (the tool I own) I plan to use this type of clamp in the future on hoses with fittings such as oil coolers. As noted, they are a pain to remove and require cutting of the band. I use linesman pliers, big sharp ones! You can thank me later for the vast amount of useless information taking up space in your head and the fact that you can no longer recall your own phone number! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted April 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 thanks for the info on the oetiker clamps, bryan. these looked a little different, may have been knockoffs. will look into getting the real deal... anyhow, got my tank back yesterday, here are some pics: the inside looks a lot better, tank is absolutely clean, though the metal is a bit stained from being rusted so long. the guy at the radiator shop that did the work was very nice, he hauled the tank to my car for me and walked me through clearing out the lines, changing the filter, etc. didn't really get any new information but it was nice that he took the time. now i just need to find time to do this stuff... very hard to take good pics of the inside of a fuel tank... andre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 If that tank isn't going to see some fuel for a while I'd rinse it with varsol / WD40 / diesel so that the bare metal gets a bit of an oily coating. It'll inhibit that metal and prevent that flash rusting. Or even use some of rust dissolver stuff Koll posted on... Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted April 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 will do, thanks andre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted April 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2011 update haven't had a chance to put fuel tank back in, still haven't had a chance to flush out fuel system & change fuel filter. have been busy with work, and interest rates are low so we are refinancing our house -- so we have accelerated our remodel project so that we can finish everything in the next month or so before our inspection. work, home and family really cut into one's peugeot time! basically have been ordering parts to fix broken stuff (including a real hirschmann 6000EL antenna, just need grommet now -- any update on id'ing that ford grommet, steffen?). a couple of questions: i have a very, very small star crack in my front windshield. since they are hard to replace, i'm going to get that repaired at a glass shop as soon as practical. my front windshield also has some scratches from the worn-out wiper blades that were on the car when i got it. should i try one of the diy polishing kits (autoglym, etc.) or should i leave this to the pros at the glass shop? also -- rabin, you've mentioned a couple of times that instead of replacing or rehabbing your bodyside molding (a whole subject unto itself), you are considering leaving it off for a more contemporary look. it's true, almost no new cars have bodyside molding. have you given any thought to how you would do the side marker lights? the seal for these lights looks to be integrated into the moldings... andre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted April 13, 2011 Report Share Posted April 13, 2011 a couple of questions: i have a very, very small star crack in my front windshield. since they are hard to replace, i'm going to get that repaired at a glass shop as soon as practical. my front windshield also has some scratches from the worn-out wiper blades that were on the car when i got it. should i try one of the diy polishing kits (autoglym, etc.) or should i leave this to the pros at the glass shop? also -- rabin, you've mentioned a couple of times that instead of replacing or rehabbing your bodyside molding (a whole subject unto itself), you are considering leaving it off for a more contemporary look. it's true, almost no new cars have bodyside molding. have you given any thought to how you would do the side marker lights? the seal for these lights looks to be integrated into the moldings... andre I hear you LOUD and clear on family commitments and house stuff cutting into garage time. Glass polishing - I checked locally and the windshield shop that fixed my windshield said they couldn't polish glass. I've purchased a kit from JC Whitney just to see if I can make it better, but I haven't tried it yet. Side moulding: On the 89' the park lights are in the bumper housings that wrap around. Without the door mouldings though I think it looks like something is missing - so I'm still looking for a modern painted side moulding that I can adapt for use on the 505. On your car - it'd be easier to go without mouldings as the front and rear bumpers don't wrap around. The early euro cars with the much smaller bumpers definitely look better without mouldings IMHO. For side lights I'd just find some fender mounted ones from another car, or shave them entirely if body work was being done and the car repainted. (plan for my 504 is to shave the side markers) Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted April 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2011 Glass polishing - I checked locally and the windshield shop that fixed my windshield said they couldn't polish glass. I've purchased a kit from JC Whitney just to see if I can make it better, but I haven't tried it yet. let us know how that turns out...i remember reading some info on the detailing sites about "professional grade" polishes you can buy, but i'm thinking that it's best to start out slower, one can always go more aggressive later... Side moulding: On the 89' the park lights are in the bumper housings that wrap around. Without the door mouldings though I think it looks like something is missing - so I'm still looking for a modern painted side moulding that I can adapt for use on the 505. On your car - it'd be easier to go without mouldings as the front and rear bumpers don't wrap around. The early euro cars with the much smaller bumpers definitely look better without mouldings IMHO. For side lights I'd just find some fender mounted ones from another car, or shave them entirely if body work was being done and the car repainted. (plan for my 504 is to shave the side markers) i go back and forth on the molding thing. sometimes i think about restoring the existing molding; the black part actually cleans up pretty good, it's that 3/8" chrome metal accent at the top that's falling apart. have been looking about for a replacement material. i also thought about body-colored bodyside molding, for example these guys (check out last item, in paintable black)...there are other similar products (generic, paintable) out there. the current crop of cars have no bodyside molding at all, so using this would bring the car into the late-90s or so... will probably look out for appropriate fender mounted lights from another car, as you suggest. edit: 505 wagon without molding -- i think the molding tricks your eye into thinking the car is lower (and thus sportier) than it really is, the molding "breaks up" the vertical size of the car... 505 coupe from the peugeot museum -- note the body-colored molding... andre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted April 13, 2011 Report Share Posted April 13, 2011 I don't like the aftermarket ones since you have to cut them to fit. That cut shows them as being aftermarket, where as OEM has nice seamless finished ends. I just need longer than needed, I can cut and splice them to fit, then refinish so it's seamless. As for the last pic of the coupe - I prefer the body side moulding to follow the same height of the bumper front to back. It's more asthetic in my opeinion. And while most new cars don't have body side mouldings - it's not totally extinct. I just need to find the right combo, as I would like to retain the chrome strip of some sort to tie in the front and rear bumpers. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryancohnracing Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 I believe that the front and rear marker lights will fit flush the body as shown in the photo of the 2 door 505. They can be very hard to remove from the side moulding however. I like the look of no side marker lights and no side moulding. Always hated that kind of gaudy stuff on cars, not sure why. Kansas, where I live doesn't have inspection laws so I can remove the marker lights without issue. Other states may not be so lucky. I'd bet a standard off the shelf chrome strip would replace the old worn one in the OEM side moulding. Find a proper parts store that carries real parts and has actual knowledgeable staff and I bet you'll score what you need. 3M probably has it in 100 ft rolls! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted April 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 all of my side moldings are attached pretty well, except for the rearmost one on the right (passengers') side -- the one with the orange side marker light. that one was kind of hangin' loose -- the back part was held on by the marker light, but the front drooped (you can probably see it in one of the pics i posted). i pulled it off yesterday, and it was attached in the front with velcro! thanks, unknown PO. since my moldings all seem to be in good shape except for the chrome accent strip, i'm now leaning towards rehabbing them. i'm going to respray the car in its original color (hopefully sometime around middle or end of the summer), so i will remove them all, clean & fix them up and reinstall them properly after the respray. another small but annoying issue, my windows all have the bronze tinting except for the right rear vent window - it's tinted green. no doubt replaced at some point in the past. so i am looking for a proper bronze tinted replacement. also -- the screws holding my console on are exposed. is this right? am i missing a part/parts here? andre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 another small but annoying issue, my windows all have the bronze tinting except for the right rear vent window - it's tinted green. no doubt replaced at some point in the past. so i am looking for a proper bronze tinted replacement. also -- the screws holding my console on are exposed. is this right? am i missing a part/parts here? Andre I'd be interested in the green tint one once you replace it, just let me know cost and shipping once it's out. I had the exact same issue with the 89 and the right rear quarter glass being bronze with all rest having green tint. I ended up finding a new glass from Madhu at Parts Network! As you know Andre - it's all in the details... Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted April 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 Rabin -- green one is yours, once i find the replacement & get it out. will let you know when that happens. andre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted April 16, 2011 Report Share Posted April 16, 2011 Rabin -- green one is yours, once i find the replacement & get it out. will let you know when that happens. andre Thanks! I'll check the garage for a bronze one - not sure if I have one out or not. If not - I wouldn't be able to remove one until early/mid May with how much snow the cars at the acreage are under. If you can wait - we can just trade. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N9TE Posted April 16, 2011 Report Share Posted April 16, 2011 You know, i just pulled the plastic trim from within the rubber side mouldings out. I've seen threads (maybe here, maybe peugeot-l - can't remember) where others have sourced material to go in there. Wait! It was Fernando (Sukhoi). Anyway, I left my mouldings naked and they look nice. You'll have to work like a mo-fo to get the "glue from space" that discolors and turns white out of the channel. But it's worth it. I'll try to post pictures soon. Maybe this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohms Posted April 17, 2011 Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 heh - i too have been mulling over the removal of the side strips...especially since one day, out of sheer boredom/stupidity, i gave the drivers side rear door's strip a light tug, and off it came hahaha. just have the 2 strips of adhesive tape still there, to be coaxed off at some point for the side parking light situation, i had 3 ideas, like rabins - shave em entirely - tho it bug me in some corner of my mind that there is extra wiring for those lights sitting within dark crevices of the car...maybe route them all the way to the trunk, to power a heckblende, like i dreamt about adding to the car before (this has a very slim chance of actually coming to fruition of course...) see how they look if the lights are taken out of the strips and just secured to the body - that pic of the 2door concept's front marker lights gives me hope that it could work. would have to look closer to see if its infact the same marker light. swap em with lights/housings from another car - super slick might be the very narrow pencil ones on i think its the acura tsx - i think they may look neat, fitting right into the 505's body crease line, being straight and narrow. maybe fill in/make flush the little body colored surround they have. this would also be part of a full body paint...which im not considering yet also, a part ive seen for 69 camaros, which is kinda neat (but i wouldnt put on my own, shes getting hers shaved completely, but maybe on the 505. maybe.) are these: https://www.anvilauto.com/product_detail.php?product=phantom_lens_69cam http://blogs.superchevy.com/6576430/chevy-news/69-camaro-or-chevelle-side-marker/index.html (a stock marker light looks like this - theyre the same front and back, except for the lens color): http://static.howstuffworks.com/gif/30002-1969-chevy-camaro-z28-4.jpg) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted April 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 rabin -- may is fine, got lots of stuff to take care of before then. koll -- i thought about leaving the chrome accent off, and i may yet do that if i don't find something that's a good replacement. since your car is black, though, it probably looks better on your car than it would on mine (since you've got that darth vader thing going on)... omar -- i had thought about using marker lights from another car, but that seemed like a lot of work for something i'm not sure about. those camaro marker lights don't look like they'd take a lot of work, though. one idea that occurred to me was to carefully trim the existing moldings into gasket moldings for the marker lights...it would take a pretty big pair to hack up nla trim pieces, though, don't know if i'm up to that... also -- my latest purchase: a used hirschmann 6000el pulled from a bmw. need to clean it up & change out the wires, then all i'll need is the right grommet. there are replacement mast and gear kits for the 6000el, so i know i can fix it if it's not 100% andre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted April 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 the latest -- just got my new fuel level sender. now that i see the new one, i realize that the old one is afu. the old one is rusted solid, while on the new one, i can feel the float move inside the cylinder. in the process of replacing soft fuel lines, waiting on my new in-tank fuel pump w/strainer. question for the group -- i got the front wheels off today. there are two wires in the wheelwell; pretty sure they are for the break wear indicator light (since i don't have abs). the yellow one is attached at both ends, one end to the caliper and one end to the body metal in the wheelwell (ground?). the green wire (circled) comes from the inside of the car and has been cut, it just hangs in the wheelwell. where does that connect? obviously i'm missing a connector, what kind? andre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted April 27, 2011 Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 Yellow/green is the ground, loose wire should go to one of the brake pads which would / should have a wire coming out of it. When the pad wears, it exposes the wire and it grounds on the disk which illuminates the brake light on the dash. Most cheap jobber pads don't have the wire, even some good ones don't. OEM always should though. If you really wanted to, small drill bit and some epoxy to hold it in and you could likely recreate it. Wire out of the pad is a male "bullet" connector. Test: If you ground that loose wire - the brake light should go on. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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