bryancohnracing

I found another goodie left over from my 505, a new, square drive drain plug tool, used for removal of differential and transmission drain plugs. May also fit some oil pan drain plugs. Peugeot part #7.1402, cast into the side of the tool. Came in a Peugeot factory bag too! (sorry, bag not included) Tool only used once, the small end. The large end was never used. Tool is in as new condition. No rounded corners, no flaking chrome, not bent beyond its OEM shape. Its new. $10 plus shipping. email bryancohnracing "at" yahoo.com or 316 251 51ZERO9

Sorry for the slow response, they sold to Eduardo in Columbia a day or so after posting and I forgot to post that fact. Roger they were used.

I found 2 good rear shocks from an '87 505 Turbo when I moved my shop recently. I've sold my 505 I don't have a need for spares, so they need to go. They have the plastic shaft sleeve, bushings, all hardware needed to install them tomorrow. As they never fail, these are perfect for someone wanting to upgrade their standard 505 to 505 Turbo rear shocks. $30 for the pair plus shipping I'll ship worldwide. Contact Bryan at bryancohnracing "at" yahoo.com or 316 251 5109

Is the car still there? I know people in Memphis that can help, might even be able to obtain the whole car if they'll sell to another yard.

Reluctantly I must sell my 505. Life is getting in the way, finances and time just aren't going to work out in the long term/big picture. Someone needs to take the car on and enjoy it as it should be! 1986 Peugeot 505 Turbo set up for NASA Time Trials/track days and fast road use. Ex-August Macbeth, creator of www.505turbo.com Build documented on the old www.505turbo.com website. Build photos: https://picasaweb.go...094/April252012 (not the complete set, just some at random) Photos from on track at Gateway April 14-15, 2012: http://john4kc.smugm...25468&k=KKfSgsL The car needs a AEM Fi/C piggy back system in order to be tuned to its maximum performance capabilities. These run about $400 from AEM and its a great piece of kit, highly tunable and perfect for the car and its needs. I purchased the car from August in February 2011. The car sat for most of 2011 while we focused on racing our Mazda Miata and buying a new house. Serious prep work for the track started in September of 2011. The car is rust free in exceptional shape overall, mint dash and carpet in dark blue, black over factory silver paint (its a track paint job, came that way), no rear seat. Sunroof could be made to work, windows work except LR, blower motor works at all speeds, heat works great, no A/C. It’s a great 505 outfitted for serious track and street use. I have the title and the car can be titled/licensed in Kansas where I live. I am willing to title the car in KS if it helps the new owner. Build overview: Ron Davis aluminum radiator custom made to fit stock mountings Front mount intercooler Hybrid Garrett T3/T4 turbo Flowmaster muffler, cat removed Trunk mount battery, new 3/15/12 9 alloy wheels (four 89-up, five 86-87) European headlamps w/H4 bulbs w/custom headlight adjusters RF US headlamp surround with bucket removed for track use (cold air intake) Momo steering wheel Engine rebuilt about 2000 miles ago by August. Specs include Danielson cam grind, Danielson port matched head, new valve springs, pistons, freshly rebuilt turbo. The engine is solid and done right. Dynojet tuning by Jesse Prather Motorsports, Topeka KS. 3/28/12 Autopower 4 point roll bar w/diagonal and horizontal brace. Legal for NASA, SCCA, other track day events Used G-Force 6 point racing seat belts, expired SFI date, good for track days events Full set of factory manuals NASA Logbook and 2012 annual tech Recent work: Re-torque head & set valves 11/30/11 New Bosch Platinum plugs 2/1/12 Engine, diff, trans oil changed with Redline products 3/28/12 New Mann oil filter 3/28/12 ATE Super Blue brake fluid flush 4/10/12 New fuel filter 3/28/12 New fuel pump, Walbro 255 lph 3/28/12 Insulate intercooler tube 2/1/12 Complete nut/bolt check of the entire car 11/30/11-4/10/12 New coolant expansion tank & radiator cap (18psi) 12/28/11 OMP racing seats (carbon shell drivers side, tubular steel passenger side) 11/3011-2/5/12 Short shift built, tested 2/1/12 New brake ducts 3/20/12 New Front and Rear brake pads 3/25/12 (front PFC 97 compound, rear OEM) Install Rebuilt steering rack, converted to manual 12/29/11 Rebuilt rear hubs (new bearings, seals, new axle nuts, freshly turned rotors) 1/15/12 Repack front wheel bearings, new seals, freshly turned rotors, 1/20/12 Torque tube center bearing lubed 3/28/12 Fit 3rd brake light 3/1/12 Refit boost gauge 3/5/12 New thermostat and air bleed fitted to t-stat housing 2/5/12 Scaled at 2925 pounds with driver and 2 gallons of fuel Aligned for track use (1.5 degrees neg front camber, 1/8 in total toe out front, 0 toe rear) Lightened front bumper beam (8 pounds removed w/plasma cutter) 3/4/12 Under hood wiring, hoses (coolant, vacuum, boost/intake) all sorted 11/30/11- 3/15/12 New spare parts: (for trackside use if needed) Front brake caliper kits (3) Rear brake caliper kit (1) Front wheel bearing kit (1) Front wheel seals (2) Rebuilt master cylinder (Bendix, 1) Rebuilt front calipers (1 L, 1 R) Mann oil filters (2) Tie Rod (1) Front brake pads (OEM, 1 set) Spare parts (ready to install): 5 spd Transmission, clean & sealed Torque tube cleaned and & sealed 87 505 Turbo differential, cleaned, resealed, new side axles seals, ready to install 3.462 ratio Custom Camber plates, new, mock up use only Rebuild-able & General Spare parts: Exhaust downpipe (turbo to converter) Complete L&R front suspension (a-arms, links, strut housings, rotors/hubs) Rear hubs/bearing carriers/rotors (1L & 1R) Assortment of front calipers 4-6 Bosch ECU’s Throttle Body & AFM (1 TB, 3 AFM’s) Stock intercooler & mount Door handles, switches, relays, hoses, calipers, electric engine fans, tail lights, wiper motor, US head light surrounds/lights, gas caps, lug nuts, nuts, bolts, etc, etc. Loads and loads of spare parts. Only good, serviceable parts saved. Complete spare engine from 1987 505 Turbo automatic, about 190,000 miles, does not have a cracked head, ran when parked, full of proper coolant, no mixing of oil/coolant) Good spare for long term build if needed. Good used steering rack (removed to install rebuilt rack) Plus lots more! Photos are available in addition to those posted. Just ask! Price: $3000 or OBO Will assist with shipping, worldwide, meeting ½ way, delivery possible. Contact: Bryan Cohn in Wichita, KS. 316 440 2955 bryancohnracing@yahoo.com

Why do I live so far east?????

In regard to Coolant Expansion Tanks, my solution can be found here: http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/2114-winter-maintenanceservicetrack-preparation/page-2#entry15339 Also, I made a T-Stat housing bleed valve that works GREAT! See Post #36 on the same page. The expansion tank is a $40 Speedway Motors part, found here: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Coolant-Expansion-Tank,1840.html I'm sure you can find these worldwide. The T-Stat bleed is a steel tire valve. I've used them to make bleeds in other radiators and all have lasted without fail, leaks, etc. They will stand up to the heat as wheels get hotter than coolant due to tire friction and brake temperatures. As air is a fluid like water and a tire valve will hold air pressures high air pressures (say at least 75 psi or more) and cooling systems only run in the 15-25 psi range its no issue. I use a high pressure cap, 22-24 psi. See the entire build thread for all kinds of fun stuff! Good luck!

I had no idea the Outlander was a Peugeot/Citroen in Gisha wear. None. Zip. Zilch. However, it does explain why, when looking to replace my Ford Escape we kept going back to the Outlander. Damn thing was hard to resist, drove one twice, looked at them at least 4 times. Splitting Ram made good sense actually. Their trucks have a good reputation and by making it a stand alone brand its more versatile and can more easily be jettisoned if needed.....Can't explain the Caravan side of things. With Fiat owning Chrysler, if it went in all went in the tank they could still keep Ram and Jeep and Caravan brands alongside Fiat and make a go of it. Or sell them off as they have market value. Jeep made by Tata anyone???

Kansas motor vehicle laws allow any plate from the year the car was built to be assigned to a car. So, I could obtain a 1986 KS plate and use it on my 505. However...... Its a cool law in that there is a market for old plates in good condition plus it allows one to buy an old car and obtain a period correct plate for it, register and assign the plate to the car. I have a friend who owns a '64 Elva Courier and he was able to get a '64 KS plate and it looks damn good on the car. From 1956 through 1976 KS plate were embossed in the shape of the state. Not too hard when your state is a giant rectangle with a squiggly bit in the NE corner, but cool none the less. Sadly the '77 through early 90's plate is an ugly white thing with wheat in the center and horrid lettering across the top. Lucky for me the car is 27 years old and I can get antique plates! Nothing fancy, just plain white with "Antique" across the bottom and 5 digits/letters that can be customized.

Chalet du'Cohn is full and some parts need to go to make room! All parts fit 1985-up 505 Turbo Gas. May fit other 505's. 3 A/C Electric Fans, original wiring and plugs. All work, checked within the last 30 days. Cheap electric fan upgrade for your 505! $15 each or all 3 for $35 2 Coolant Expansion Tanks, good caps, no cracks or leaks. You want a spare, right? $15 each 1 Coolant Expansion Tank mounting bracket. Free! 2 Intake Manifold to Intercooler elbows. $15 each 2 Turbo to Intercooler pipes. $15 each 1 Intercooler, no fin damage, stored in bubble wrap since removal. $40 1 Rubber Intake Elbow to Intercooler hose, soft and pliable, no cracks. $15 NOTE: The above parts could be used to convert a non intercooled 505 to intercooled set up. Sorry, no intercooler mounting bracket. 5 spd Transmission for 505 V6 with shift linkage, TO arm and bearing, recently found clutch slave push rod. Cheap. Silly Cheap! Use it as yard art! Convert your old Jeep. Put the engine in the front of your Deloren! Create the worlds only PVR 5spd powered Renault Le Car! Email for a deal so good you can't pass it up! Trade? Swap? What ya got? Fan photo:http://www.flickr.com/photos/bryancohnracing/8302545316/in/photostream/ Intercooler parts & Coolant Tanks: http://www.flickr.com/photos/bryancohnracing/8302547034/in/photostream/ No reasonable offer refused, all of it needs a new home. Email Bryan at bryancohnracing@yahoo.com

Pre load does not effect the rate of the spring, only the initial force it takes to move said spring. So, if you want more stiffness you need more spring. FYI Koni Yellows: I run 750/350 Fr/Rr on my Miata with Koni Yellows. There is no spring rate limit as such, never heard of such a thing on any car I've ever worked on. Rabin where did you get that info? As for bump stops, there are different types and styles. I use what is commonly called a "Packer" in place of a rubber piece 2 inches tall. Why? I want every spec of travel I can get without bottoming out the shock. Packers are hard plastic, 2-3 mm thick. Stack a couple if needed. They flex to go around the shaft, no need to remove the shock/strut. I'm getting ready to start coil over conversion on my spare struts and am looking hard at 250 front springs as a starting point

Rehab is going well, virtually no pain throughout. I was driving the Baja, if it had been the Volvo I'd have never thought of tossing a mower in the back! One more week and then I get to start actual muscle work. Goal is to be able to race by the end of March. Am I lame for thinking I might install power steering in the Miata or a giant 20 inch steering wheel in the 505???

Rob, parts are available from several places: Peugeot Holm in NH Javal Garage Courtier in Dallas Parts Network in Houston (I think) See the Vendors section of this very website: http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/forum/22-vendors/ Also check out Western Hemispheres in Cali There is also a nationwide mechanics list found here: http://myplace.frontier.com/~peugeot/mechanics Please also sign up with the Peugeot Yahoogroup, lots of great help to be found there! Good luck!

A friend and I looked hard and long at taking one of my old parts car 505's and building it into a LeMons/Chump Car racer with a small block Chevy, T5 5 spd and diff from a Vette with custom axles. The holes are big enough to fit those parts, they don't cost much on the used/junk yard market. Biggest cost was custom axles. My friend can weld and between us we have enough scrap steel and ally to build s small ship. In the end we lost interest due to other interests. Does that even make sense?

I had to have my Paris-Rhone checked out by a proper electric starter/alternator/motor rebuild shop here in Wichita as the O'Reily's near my house didn't have the right connectors to test it. Turned out to be a good move on my part! I highly recommend a proper shop vs/ the hacks at most of the Quick Shop parts houses..they could be selling Slurpees just as well as Chevy alternators.