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bill

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    Hudson, ohio

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  1. If you have to adjust where the sunroof is to move the sunroof back to remove that panel, you can go to the sunroof motor in the trunk section. There is a special sized bolt fitting in the center (funny oval head). My original 505 came with a tool that was a little handle. I had lost mine, so I used a pair if vicegrips to latch onto to turn the motor and move the works back.
  2. Had a delay. I will let you know when ready.

    Bill

  3. Yeah, and I have them off for pics tomorrow.
  4. I have a lot of these things Tom and Nina. PM me for details. Bill
  5. Parting out 86 turbo sedan blue interior. Auto, and I do have a BA-10 from another car that I pulled and stored about 10 years. Let me know if you need anything. Located in Ohio. Bill
  6. Well, I quit driving it about a year ago after I went to change the differential fluid and very little came out. I recently looked at again with the intention of fixing. (extra car). I figure about half of the oil remains in the pumpkin. I have brass bits in the oil. Some bearing noise.
  7. Looking for a rear axle for a 505 wagon. I am in Ohio. Bill
  8. I have them if you still need them.
  9. There is a thread on the topic over at Yahoo Groups Peugeot-L: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/peugeot-L/conversations/messages/92474
  10. This is a neat reference source on Peugeots: http://www.angelfire.com/tn/pugdatabase/ Lots of useful information.
  11. As far as the speedometer, a garden-variety Garmin GPS will tell you the speed. Online, older ones go for a song.
  12. A long time ago I jacked up the car at the pumpkin, and it disturbed the old compensator valve, which started leaking.
  13. I have a fine used pair that I pulled and stored. Not rusty.
  14. You might be okay using the 5/16 square. I have never done that only because I have never had to. Do you have a manual? On jacking, you really have to be careful. There are specific jacking points. Anywhere else risks bending. The round crossmember in the front and the ones toward the front on the rear wheels. At this point, I would jack one wheel at a time and use jackstands along with a wheel chock. I say that because lifting both wheels at the front crossmember risks jack slippage. There should be a slot where the factory jack goes, but it in the way of centering a floor jack. On the brakes, I would address getting the bleeders loose first, as the system will need to be bled. Caution is in order, as they can be easily broken if you are not careful. I heat them up and soak with something like PB blaster being careful where I point the flame. Be sure they are cool, and use an 8mm hex socket and a 1/4 ratchet. Don't force them and be patient. Be careful around rubber brake parts, as any petroleum based lube will not mix at all with the rubber. In fact, it destroys it. A clean new turkey baster is sufficient to get most out of the master. I use Dot 3 and plenty of it, as I like to flush the system completely when doing it. There's a bunch of tips / tricks with working on the calipers and bleeding the system.
  15. The 5/16 won't work. In a pinch, I have ground down a 3/8 extension from a socket set, and even a pair of trusty channel locks / vise grips. It will work, provided that the previous mechanic didn't over tighten it. I believe Snap On makes an 8mm square, either a socket or a wrench, but that might be special order. There is a dedicated Peugeot wrench (8 and 10mm) that I use that is used on both the oil drain and the differential plugs. On more than one occasion I have encountered overtightened drain plugs from new purchases.
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