pushgo Posted April 15, 2012 Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 Andre the cars looking fantastic! great to see some new progress Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted April 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 I don't think it's the doors leaking. The door would have water in them because the corner drain hole is clogged and that still wouldn't seep onto the floor. I know from experience. My father was getting water in the Cali 505 under the rear bench seat. He found it was the rear plastic piller covers was leak causing the water leakage onto the floorpan... Just a suggestion to consider. Looking good though you may be right about the door not being the source nick. after the rain, there was water on the floor up front but nowhere else...there was no water in the door cavity, nor was there any water in the cavity where the front kick-panel speaker goes....i put my hand up inside the dash behind the glove compartment (i.e., directly above where the water collected) but it felt dry back there. i recently removed the rear pillar vents and the rubber piece underneath it to clean...you don't think water came in there and ran all the way to the front footwell, do you? how would that work? if the rear pillar vent is leaking, what is the fix? my daughter (9) has offered to spray the car with the hose while i'm in it...to help me find the leak, of course... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anj Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 Hi Andre Car is looking great and I always look forward to your posts. I appreciate the time it takes to stop and document as you do and I need to become more consistent. We are in a similar position with the dynamat and I added the vinyl liner http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Stinger+RKCP12+RoadKill+Carpet+Pad+ on top of the Dynamat. The stuff is expensive for 3'x5" but I buy it when it is half price and have purchased 6 so far. I found that polyurethane glue worked the best. I have been driving around with this for a while as I work on the mechanicals. I have to run a the battery lines and and rough in the stereo wires . I was going to top this with the carpet underlay similar to what you have and finally the carpet. What are your plans for the doors? trunk? Arun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted April 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2012 je vous remercie de l'encouragement! wow -- you're going to add the vinyl carpet pad and underlay, in addition to the dynamat? do you think that will make it difficult to install the carpet? i was thinking that i had to choose between the vinyl pad and the underlay, it never occurred to me to use both. the dynamat people say that it's more important to soundproof the doors than the floor, so that's why i was going to go with just the one extra layer (i.e., dynamat) on the floor. speaking of the doors, at this point i plan to put the dynamat on the inside surface of the door skin, but beyond that my plans are fuzzy. will probably dynamat under the door card, also. as for the trunk -- i will be running dynamat under the trunk lining...it seems like the most common place to mount one's amp is on the back panel that conceals the fuel tank -- but i don't want to block that in case i need to get in there again. so i'm looking at creative places in which to mount my amp...that's also why i won't be moving my battery to the trunk, even though it makes sense from a weight/balance perspective... andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anj Posted April 20, 2012 Report Share Posted April 20, 2012 Andre Since I tossed all the orginal sound proofing the new stuff is thinner and with the dynamat and liner the carpet is still loose. I was considering two layers of liner on the bottom only. This does not seem excessive when you look at the new cars. After the dynamat was installed I installed the rear seats and there is a gap on the bottom and that is why I looked into the liner and underlay. I am off for a few days and will be trying to get the carpet in and will let you know about the final set up. Arun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted May 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 lug nuts! this is a set of reproduction lug nuts i got from a guy named dan...dan is a machinist in sacramento, california, and a subaru guy. i found him on a subaru forum, he made a bunch of these one piece lug nuts for subaru owners using peugeot alloys...they are cnc milled from a solid chunk of steel & nickel-plated. if, like me, you enjoy the irony of buying peugeot parts from the subaru guys who are taking all of our wheels (), i believe that dan has enough lug nuts left for three or four sets...when they're gone, they're gone. if you are reading this years from now, i imagine dan could be talked into another run if there was enough interest, but you'd have to talk to him about that. price each is US$5.85, and he sends them flat rate in the US so mine cost a total of US$104 ($5.85 x 16 = $93.60, $10.40 shipping + $93.60 = $104.00). if you are interested, you can contact dan at cngtool at pacbell.net (remove the spaces, replace "at" with "@") andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peugeottogo Posted May 18, 2012 Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 Those lug nuts look fantastic! Sent Dan an email this morning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted May 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 Those lug nuts look fantastic! Sent Dan an email this morning cool, i found dan very nice to deal with -- he has the same car disease as us, just the subaru version. not sure if he even owns peugeot alloys -- in the thread, a bunch of subaru owners were looking for the lug nuts and he posted something like, "hey, i'm a machinist, send me one and i'm sure i can reproduce it!" they did and he did, he sold a bunch of sets to the subaru crowd. early on he offered them bare and plated (the bare ones were about a dollar less), but apparently some early purchasers of the bare ones left them that way and had problems with rusting, so he plated the rest of his stock & only sells them that way. andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peugeottogo Posted May 18, 2012 Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 Forgot that the early Subaru of this era not only had the same lug spacing but thread pitch as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted May 18, 2012 Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 The Subaru's run 5.5" backspacing - Peugeot 4.5". So Pug wheels poke out an additional inch as well. I did some quick searching and it looks like there's a guy that makes 15" steel wheels for the old Subaru's. Sent an e-mail - but I'm betting the backspace won't work for the Peugeots. I had an 86 GL-10 Loyale wagon for years (awesome car), and I put some 15" Peugeot alloys on but the handling was ATROCIOUS so I went back to the 13's. Old 14" steelies would have been a better choice, but I had nice 13" Subie alloys so didn't feel the need. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peugeottogo Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 Received a set of these lug nuts from Dan today! Thanks for the heads up Andre' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted May 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 that's good to hear! isn't it fun to buy peugeot parts that are described as new, without the "old stock" behind it? andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted June 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 sorry that there haven't been many updates lately...i have been making a bit of progress, but i've also been busy with work, family stuff (kids' end-of-school-year activities), etc. i posted pics of my refurbished becker head unit a while back...i'll be running it with a/d/s speakers. a/d/s was big in the 80s, not around anymore (sound familiar? )....they were best know for their speakers, but they made nice amps as well. back in the 80s, i had a set of a/d/s 300i plate speakers in my car, i loved them and regret not taking them from the car when i sold it -- especially since the guy who bought my car back then was not an audiophile. for the front, i have these component speakers; the lowrange drivers will go in the kick panels and the tweeters will go in the dash (like the factory units); the crossovers will be out of sight. i'll be putting these in soon when i swap out my dashboard: to give me a bit of fill in the rear, i'll be mounting these two-way coaxial speakers in the rear deck; the crossovers will be mounted on the underside of the rear deck, in the fuel tank compartment: i will probably not be getting an a/d/s amp, since back then amps only came with line-level inputs and my becker only has speaker-level outputs...i'd need an additional device to make this work (a line output converter) which doesn't make sense since there are so many great new amps out these days that take speaker-level output. i'm also looking at a solution to add bluetooth hands-free calling as well as additional inputs to my system, more to come. andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 Sweet - Do you have plans for a sub at all? I have a very similar set up for my 89' with 6.5" components in the front and 3.5" rear fill speakers in the deck - but I really want the speakers in factory housings to keep it stealthy. Hard part is finding space for the sub and the amp- so likely just going with a ton of CLEAN power to a single 10" JL Audio sub - just have to figure out where now. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N9TE Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 I has a set os a/d/s Power Plate speakers in my AMC Spirit hatchback in the 80's as well. Powered by a nice amp, those were the best I've ever had. Just love those! I went looking a few years ago for a/d/s stuff and couldn't find them. You found them new? Where? Gonna sound nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pushgo Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 Those speakers look like the focal speaker system I have in my car. Can't wait see how everything looks and also hear about the sound results Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted June 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 rabin -- definitely considering a subwoofer, since i'm thinking this system will sound pretty clean but lacking in bass (since the drivers aren't that big). my problem is, i don't want to give up any space or have a visible subwoofer box, so that complicates things....i have some ideas that i'm working on, we'll see... koll -- the rear speakers aren't new, but are in very good condition...i got them on craigslist. the front components are new, i got them on ebay. the new-in-the-box a/d/s speakers are getting harder and harder to find....the NOS a/d/s speakers that you find tend to be the components, i've been looking for a year or so and i haven't seen any NOS 300i speakers (the plate units)....good used ones go for around US$200-$250 when they are available. the weird punctuation in the company name makes boolean searches tricky... btw -- if you are into a/d/s speakers, here's a resource for you.... phil -- thanks! if i went with new speakers, it probably would have been JL or focal or maybe JBL (since they are OEM on the current peugeots even though they aren't really in the same class as the JLs or focals). couldn't resist the a/d/s - becker combo, though... andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pushgo Posted June 16, 2012 Report Share Posted June 16, 2012 Hey Andre just a little food for thought for your sub idea I'm running two 8" ND (thin 3" thick) subs under my two front seats of my pug and the bass is good clean and perfect for that extra little bit of bump and I still have my full truck capsity to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted June 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 that's a good idea, phil...do you have the measurements of the enclosures you're using? the other idea i had was to mount a small (8" or so) subwoofer in the center of the rear deck, with an enclosure built to fit under the rear deck, inside of the panel for the fuel tank so that it doesn't interfere with the main portion of the trunk...of course, this causes a fitment issue with the high mounted rear brake light, so i'm keeping an open mind about the subwoofer placement at this point. after many months of researching and searching, i think i will have everything i need to fabricate new soft fuel lines for my car. this has been something of an effort, and i have a lot of information on this topic...i'll write all of this up soon in its own topic. i've also been getiting various parts powdercoated, in addition to the wheels. here are the coil mounting bracket and the spare tire holder assembly -- the screw for the spare tire holder is in a box of stuff i'm collecting to send to the platers in the next few weeks: i spent some time yesterday working on the wiring for my stereo system...i need to finish the wiring and replace the dash before i re-install the carpet & seats. i ran a new (replacement) antenna wire, as well as the source lines (speaker level) from the head unit to the future home of the amplifier (in the trunk). still need to attach connections on either end, will be using solder and heat shrink tubing. then i'll need to run a power lead (4 awg) from the battery to the amp...i'm thinking that i'll run this along the driver's side to keep it separate from the signal lines (which run along the passenger side) to minimize interference. while i'm at it, i will probably do a big three upgrade, since it's part of a decent stereo install and since our cars are so prone to electrical issues. more to come andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pushgo Posted June 19, 2012 Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 I will see if I can get them, they are packed under the seat pretty snug. My buddy installed them and designed them. Had to remove both seats to mount them. I will ask him if he has dimensions. Im also running focal component speakers in front (6.5 inch woofer in kick panels, and tweeter in dash) and three way 6x9 focal coaxials in rear deck shelf behind back seat some speaker mods were also made happy with the bass and clarity of system. I didn't want to sacrifice any trunk space. I really live the idea you're planning for your syst Andre. when u get the car done I want to see it in person and a ride as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted June 19, 2012 Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 Andre. when u get the car done I want to see it in person and a ride as well Is there such a thing as "done"? I somehow can't imagine that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted June 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 phil -- would appreciate getting the dimensions for your below-seat sub enclosures...figures they'd be custom. when you first mentioned them, i thought you meant something like this. i doubt that i'll fabricate anything, but knowing what fits is certainly helpful. tulaweb is right, they're never really done , but you're welcome to a ride when i get it to a higher state of assembly... not much car time today, but did manage to get the connectors for the becker head unit & the amp inputs (rca) soldered and heat-shrink-tubed: the speaker connectors for the back of the becker -- got these when i had the unit refurbished: here's the connectors for the (future) amp, the individual lines are heat-shrink-tubed, then the whole mess has a large tube heat-shrinked (shrunk?) over it. required a bit of planning: my old soldering iron died, so i got a new one...it's a cordless weller, runs on batteries. i used it for the first time today. what a piece of crap! it took forever to heat up...i'm going to relegate it to my junk drawer, it's one of those things that sound great in theory but suck in practice. a few more audio system lines to run, have to pick up my fuel line components later this week. andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 Soldering gun: Look for the butane powered ones if you want cordless ones. A buddy of mine used to do stereo installs for a living and that's all he used - worked fantastic. I've got the old style Weller gun type I still fiddle with - but a good tip for them are the screws that hold the tip should be tightened with every use. I also picked up a nice soldering station a few years back when I was going to build a MegaSquirt ECU... That plan died when I decided on VEMS - but the station works fantastic for soldering that can be done outside the car. Wiring: I would do some research on running wires if you can - electrical interference can be a bugger in degrading signal. While it looks great - I'd wonder if you'll get any that connection with all the wires bundled together tight like that. I know it's best to run separate paths for the power and ground, but I've also been told not to run speaker wires together if it can be helped... Another tip for joining wires is to stagger the splices so that they're not all beside each other. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted June 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 rabin -- good tips, all. i don't really need a cordless soldering iron, i just thought it would be a cool idea....i'll definitely look at the butane-powered ones, although i'm leaning towards a regular corded pistol-grip model like my old (dead) one. as far as interference is concerned, separating the signal lines from the power lines is a basic, simple thing to do...if i find that i have interference after i get the whole thing set up, i can tweak the connections as you suggest (i left a good bit of slack for this purpose) or in the worst case, i can put in a line-level converter behind the dash so that there's less power in the lines going back...all of the amps i'm looking at automatically sense the incoming voltage and adjust accordingly... by the way, i live very close to the french consulate in los angeles. during the week, if i'm out working on my car at around 6 pm, i'm sometimes visited by one of the staff members; my house is on his route from the consulate to his home. he saw my peugeot in front of my house, and stopped, now we chat every now and then. no cool french cars at the consulate, that was the first question i asked! anyhow, according to Mr. "F", i can only listen to french music on this system... andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 I love that your car helped introduce you to someone at the French consulate. You can be damn sure he wouldn't have given you the time of day had you been working on a Benz or BMW. Soldering with a butane one is only really handy when soldering in situ - I cursed my gun one when I was doing both wiring harness repairs - but it did the job just fine with a bit more contorting. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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