Jump to content

update on my GL


andrethx

Recommended Posts

I'd vote red for the bars to match the springs... :)

Did you just get the one wheel blasted to see how it turned out - or are all 4 wheels getting done? Can't wait to see how they turn out - It's amazing what nice rims and new tires can do to the look of a car. Wheels alone will transform your car nicely indeed.

Rabin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 347
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

well, i had the springs done at a different place -- the guy that did it has a side business powdercoating stuff in his garage. he does a lot of it, has an old oven in his garage....his prices are very reasonable, but there is a size limit on what he can do. in the coming weeks i'm going to have him do a few small pieces for me (front license plate bracket, etc.).

this place i went to yesterday is a professional powdercoating place in orange county. i took some time off yesterday to drive down there in the middle of the day (so traffic was light); 35 minutes each way. since it's a different place, the odds of them matching the springs exactly would be slim, so i went with a different color (it'll be a surprise for next week. smile.gif). incidentally, they had a sign out -- "st. patrick's day sale - 10% all jobs in green for the month of march!" biggrin.gif but i didn't go with green...

koll, i agree with you about lahood. i'm pretty liberal as far as politics goes, but i think a lot of our laws wrt cars are not very well thought out. accidents are going down, after all..maybe lahood could spend his time worrying about something else, like our deteriorating infrastructure...socal used to have the best roads anywhere, now parts of it are still nice but other parts are like baja...

andré

Link to comment
Share on other sites

that is an excellent question, phil. the short answer is, i'm not sure. let me explain:

the blasting place only charged me $15 to beadblast the wheel. i plan to have them do all of my wheels, so that'd be $60 for a set of four. rabin -- this is my spare (the one i got from jeff), i'll be having the other wheels done in the future...

when i brought my stuff in yesterday, i noticed a sign in the customer area -- "wheels, $490 for a set of 4." when i asked the guy how much for my front & rear swaybars and my one wheel, he told me $160 for the lot. i think he gave me a low price b/c my stuff was already very clean (minimal prep) and my wheel was relatively small. i could see the shop in the back, they had several racks of wheels they were working on, most of them looked like 18s, 19s & 20s. the guy started writing my order up on one ticket, but when i told him i wanted the swaybars in a different color (i.e, not silver), he tore that ticket up and started writing up two tickets; he priced the two swaybars at $95 and the wheel at $65. that's a lot less than 1/4 of $490 ($122.50)! i also get the impression that he was cutting me a deal b/c i was bringing other stuff in, as well.

while i was there, the guy answered a phone call and said, "wheels are $490 for a set of 4."

i'm reluctant to bring him in 4 wheels at once now, since i'm thinking he'll charge me the higher rate! complicating matters, my other 4 wheels (the ones i got from ukit) already have my new tires on them. what i'm probably going to do, over the next few weeks, is replace my wheels one by one and have them done individually. the left front tire has a slow leak coming from the stem, i called the tire shop to complain and they said to bring it by & they'd make it right. so i'm probably going to start with that one....when i get the wheel back from powdercoating next week, i'll bring it to the tire shop with the front right wheel & tire combo and have them switch the tire to the newly powdercoated wheel (and have them install the pressure monitoring stem at the same time). then i'll take the tire-less wheel to the blasters, rinse & repeat, etc. once i've worked my way around the car i'll get a new tire for the spare -- probably a michelin that is non-directional (my PS2s are directional)...

i have other parts that i want to get powdercoated -- rear suspension arms, etc. so i'll probably bring some in each time (and hopefully get package deals).

yes, it all sounds like a huge PITA...biggrin.gif i'll let you know the final costs when i'm done. let me know if you want the name of the blasters or the powdercoating shop...

andré

Link to comment
Share on other sites

got the swaybars back from the powdercoater:

IMG_7717.jpg

IMG_7720.jpg

yellow! yes, i went there. biggrin.gif

also got my first wheel back -- looks great!

IMG_7715.jpg

IMG_7716.jpg

here's the tech at the tire place mounting the pressure sensor:

PhotoMar1431556PM.jpg

PhotoMar1431619PM.jpg

and here are a couple of shots of with the tire back on (and the pressure sensor installed):

IMG_7721.jpg

IMG_7722.jpg

i felt bad putting those old lug nuts on it! oh well, one step at a time...

andré

Link to comment
Share on other sites

not a silly question at all, phil.

the tire pressure sensor kit has a sensor for each wheel, which you can see in the pictures. there is a special metal stem, and the sensor itself is screwed to the lower part of the stem with a nylock screw (such that the black sensor box is "sandwiched" between the stem and the nylock screw). so you have to remove the tire to install the sensor...since i am getting my wheels refinished (and removing the tires), i figured now was as good a time as any to get this kit.

the sensor data is sent wirelessly to the display module. the sensors and the display module have replaceable batteries -- the batteries in the sensors are supposed to last 5-10 years, the kit manufacturer recommends changing the batteries when you change the tires. the display module is not connected to anything, it comes with a couple of pieces of velcro so that you can fasten it anywhere you want in the interior. you can set alarms on the display module, when the tire pressure goes outside of your set range, the number turns red and an audible alarm goes off (optional). the kit comes with the sensors programmed (and labelled) for a particular tire position, but you can change that when you rotate your tires.

the kit i got is by orange -- it was between the orange kit and the one by hella (tire rack sells the hella one). i read some bad reviews of the hella kit (poor design, essentially), but the orange kit was very well reviewed so that's the one i got from amazon. i just checked and the orange kit is selling for US$105, i think it was a couple of bucks more when i got it. i haven't had the chance to check it out yet, it should work with just the one tire. maybe this weekend? but it's supposed to rain...i'll give a full review when i get the chance...

andré

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow, those have sure come down in the last few years. I looked a couple of years ago and they were all over 500 back then. At that price it would be worth getting for family members that think tires magically fill themselves with air!

I'm liking the direction and prioriry of your mods. Good eye!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Love the color combo!

Wheel look great. I'm thinking of flat black for mine when the time comes, probably next winter. I did a set of alloys in metallic gun metal grey once and they looked fantastic.

So where did you mount the TPS readout? Great idea for every day use, our Volvo has TPS and I gotta say it works and has saved our but more than once.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I need to mount a set of tires on my wife's Volvo - and I think I'll be ordering one of these to install. Oddly enough I don't run a spare since you can't actually use the donut on it since the AWD it uses is super sensitive to diameter differences - anything greater than 3/16 tread depth difference and it can bugger the bevel gear.

Last time my wife discovered she had a flat - it was much too late and she rimmed the tire till it was shot. Needed to get a whole new set because of they had to be the same size. Thankfully the nice 2pc BBS alloy was ok!

So - this looks like a no brainer for that car for sure.

Rabin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

more parts:

new injectors & o-rings:

IMG_7726.jpg

also, new gasket & filter for transmission:

IMG_7727.jpg

haven't had a chance to test the TPMS yet, or figure out where/how to mount the display unit. very busy with work...plus, we are expecting a houseguest from france so lots of cleaning, home improvement projects, etc.

andré

Link to comment
Share on other sites

jeff, i'm not sure of the color code of the shade i picked -- but the powdercoating place i went to had several wall displays from different powderpaint manufacturers...i picked the shade i like the best. i'll find out the exact shade (name or number) & manufacturer name the next time i go there.

my new wheel is actually a bit lighter silver than the old wheels, but that's what i wanted so it's fine. it's a very subtle difference, you wouldn't be able to tell unless you saw the wheels together. these wheels are 26 years old, it's impossible to know what the original color was, so i decided to just make myself happy and not worry about it. biggrin.gif

andré

Link to comment
Share on other sites

nice little present from a french friend -- she works here in LA for a french bank & went home last week to versailles for a wedding. she picked this up for me at the local peugeot dealership. it was a gift, i think it costs about US$20-$30...she told me that she went to the dealership on saturday but it was closed so she had to go back during the week. very different from the US, i can't imagine a car dealership closed on a saturday...

this will go in the trunk..

IMG_7734.jpg

IMG_7735.jpg

andré

Link to comment
Share on other sites

spent some time cleaning out the back seat area and getting it ready for dynamat. as it turns out, i was wrong when i told rob that i would have to drill holes to add the headrest supports to my car -- the screws are already there, i just have to bolt the supports in there:

IMG_7740.jpg

IMG_7741.jpg

here's one of the speakers from the rear deck, it's trashed:

IMG_7736.jpg

after that, i changed the spark plugs and the plug wires. the old spark plugs looked terrible:

IMG_7742.jpg

more to come...

andré

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

thanks for the compliments. i will continue to ignore the fast food comments regarding my color choices. biggrin.gif

a bit more progress on the interior. here are a couple of shots of my dynamat progress. after i took these pictures, i finished with the interior floor/rear deck. next will be the doors.

IMG_7751.jpg

IMG_7750.jpg

started prep work on the front passenger-side door:

IMG_7761.jpg

for those of you who have never looked inside your door, here's what it looks like. side intrusion beam:

IMG_7762.jpg

outside handle & lock area (series 2):

IMG_7753.jpg

you would think after 26 years, all of the coatings would be dry & no longer be sticky. you'd be wrong:

IMG_7756.jpg

here's the plastic sealer and (what i presume is) the dried-up and curled-up coating from the inside of the door...i found the latter at the bottom of the door cavity:

IMG_7755.jpg

here's the lower inner surface of the door skin, where the coating was applied:

IMG_7754.jpg

power mirror connections:

IMG_7759.jpg

i have roll-up windows, so here's the splined post where the winder handle attaches:

IMG_7757.jpg

however, my car appears to be wired for power windows anyway. here is an unused connector i found at the bottom of the door cavity, covered in the sticky red-brown goo:

IMG_7758.jpg

i ran into some snags sourcing all of the fittings, etc. i need to replace the soft fuel lines. should have it sorted out soon...

more to come...

andré

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks for the encouragement, bryan. speaking of the becker, i got it back a few days ago:

IMG_7764.jpg

IMG_7765.jpg

they refurbished the unit, replaced the faceplate with a new one (on the 780, the faceplate contains all of the buttons, the display, etc. -- all the black plastic stuff), deleted the anti-theft code and gave me the OE connectors from the mercedes model that this unit originally came from (a 450SL, i believe). i have some of the other components, but i'm still sourcing stuff so the rest of the system will be a post for another time. biggrin.gif

andré

Link to comment
Share on other sites

still working on getting the bits and pieces i need to rebuild the soft fuel lines. should have everything sourced soon.

since the dynamat on the floor is done, i have moved on to the carpet install. i have not decided if i'm going to use the underlayment that came with my new carpet or if i'm going to install something else (dynaliner, etc.). i laid out the underlayment that came with my carpet set to check it out. if i end up using it, will need to be glued down & trimmed:

IMG_7768.jpg

IMG_7767.jpg

IMG_7766.jpg

the bad news is, i've now discovered i have a leak! i have been getting a bit of water on the passenger side front floor. since i don't have a sunroof, the most likely culprits are the fresh air vent, the doors or the rain vents in the windshield wiper bay. wrt the last one, i removed the wipers and the vent panel & flushed the rain vent drains out with a pressure hose and compressed air...they're clear so i don't think they are to blame. i covered up the fresh air vent (since i''m not driving the car right now) so we will see if that is the problem.

i'm leaning towards the doors. did a bit a research and found that the doors tend to leak a bit more when the car is parked facing downhill (as mine is). also, i remove the plastic waterproofing sheet on the adjacent door recently and my sense is that the leak got much worse (i.e., noticeable) after that. will be investigating this further in the coming days.

while i was under the hood, i did a bit of housekeeping. the egg-crate sound insulation pieces on either side of the hood underside were crumbling -- every time i opened the hood, i'd get bits of dried foam falling on everything (including me!). so i removed it, still need to clean off the residue. my center insulation panel is in okay shape (i.e., fixable), but i'm thinking of replacing the lot with something more modern. still investigating this...

IMG_7773.jpg

while i was putting the vent panel off, i replace the the OE retaining screws with stainless ones. the new screws are a bit longer, but i was able to find them locally and in this application the longer length doesn't matter. i have the correct length screws (with the correct head shape) on order. biggrin.gif the next photo shows a comparison...the lower screw is the new stainless one, the upper screw is original:

IMG_7775a.jpg

and heres a side-by-side comparison:

IMG_7776.jpg

also replaced the retaining screws on the front grill with stainless.

andré

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think it's the doors leaking. The door would have water in them because the corner drain hole is clogged and that still wouldn't seep onto the floor. I know from experience. My father was getting water in the Cali 505 under the rear bench seat. He found it was the rear plastic piller covers was leak causing the water leakage onto the floorpan... Just a suggestion to consider.

Looking good though B)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...