andrethx Posted April 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 thanks for the reply, rabin. will be going over the brakes soon, will make a point to get good pads with the wear sensor leads. any advice on brands? the orgy of buying continues. you may have noticed that the bushings in my suspension are thrashed, i'm buying a complete set from rob courtier. speaking of rob, he just sent me a new turn signal lever b/c my old one is broken -- it hangs sadly behind the steering wheel. andre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted April 27, 2011 Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 thanks for the reply, rabin. will be going over the brakes soon, will make a point to get good pads with the wear sensor leads. any advice on brands? andre The 505 uses the same caliper as early Porsche 944's (~83 - 85') - so go nuts. Performance Friction, Porterfield, Hawk, etc etc make some really good performance pads, but if you just want GOOD pads, can't go wrong with OEM if you can get them, or Mintex is also quite good. You can pretty much get anything you want up front. Rear you're ptretty much limited to OEM, Mintex, or cheap jobber pads. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted April 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 will look for those, rabin, thanks. more stuff, i got this stuff from aaron today (guy parting out 88 turbo in huntington beach): trunklid with spoiler attached nice set of mirrors, my old ones aren't as nice (especially right one, which sags) andre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peugeottogo Posted April 27, 2011 Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 Andre, are you mounting the rear spoiler on your car? You will need the second lift strut from the right side to support the additional weight. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted April 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 thanks for mentioning that, jeff -- the lift strut on my trunk was dead, when i removed my gas tank i had to prop the trunk open with a piece of wood. fortunately, i have a lot of pieces of wood around b/c of my home renovation project. i knew i wanted to add a rear spoiler some day, so i got two new struts. i buy stuff that i don't even post! shocking, i know. i'm planning to use the new trunk lid, spoiler and all, rather than try to mount the spoiler on my existing trunk lid. i'm going to repaint the car later in the summer, so everything will match after that. btw, aaron had bought the turbo for his son, but the head cracked so he's parting it out. i knew that part, and i felt bad for aaron's son until he told me today that the boy's grandfather gave him a porsche 356 that he's fixing up. i don't feel so sorry for him now... andre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted April 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2011 as i mentioned earlier, my in-tank fuel pump was okay, but the strainer (sock) was shredded. i found an old post on peugeot-l by peugeot pete that mentions the GM fuel pump that fits our cars; it's actually a carter unit for a chevy vega. pete said that one has to use the peugeot strainer with the vega pump, couldn't figure out why. rock auto had the pump, they were closing them out for practically nothing so i ordered one (think it was like $5-$10)...i was hoping that the strainer was included. it wasn't, so i guess that's why pete said that the peugeot strainer was necessary. i found a carter strainer at pep boys that's roughly the size & shape of the peugeot strainer, but i haven't had a chance to test it out since i'm still cleaning my fuel system out, so i don't know if it fits or works properly. long story short, i saw that miles at western hemispheres had the pump with strainer, so i ordered one. it came in today: it's a german-made aftermarket unit, looks like it will be a good fit. interestingly, the strainer is different than the "sock' style on the original pump: kind of a ufo-shaped disk-y thing. so now i have three in-tank fuel pumps and one strainer, or maybe two. still have to pull the fuel rail & clean it out...thinking i will probably replace the injectors while i'm at it. clogged injectors can screw up the emissions, and i need to get my car smogged before too long...that's why the PO let it sit for so long, b/c it had failed smog and they didn't want to fix it. andre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted April 30, 2011 Report Share Posted April 30, 2011 still have to pull the fuel rail & clean it out...thinking i will probably replace the injectors while i'm at it. clogged injectors can screw up the emissions, and i need to get my car smogged before too long...that's why the PO let it sit for so long, b/c it had failed smog and they didn't want to fix it.andre You should have the XN6 in that car, and if so that's Bosch CIS-E / Jetronic with the O2 feedback. Start reading up on your CIS tuning, or start looking for a GOOD old skool water cooled VW shop that's familiar with tuning CIS. It's the same system VW/Audi used, as well as a number of others (Volvo) - but VW freaks will be the ones to talk to if you need to set it straight. I've always meant to learn the dark art of tuning CIS - but the last few XN6 cars I had ran awesome. Well tuned - they are fantastic. Like with anything though - if someone without the right knowledge took a try, then bad tings can happen. Trick will be to find someone to help tune it, or you'll need to start web mining and you'll need a set of fuel pressure gauges. Another thing to mention is to make sure that oil bath filter is cleaned out and fresh oil is in it. They last forever, and they flow REALLY well, but they don't get maintained much if at all. If you decide you want to get rid of the oil bath - I have a Volvo CIS housing that bolts to the air flapper assembly and allows you to use a regular air box or set up a CAI if you wanted. Only thing was the inlet for it points it at the LF headlight - so it's a tight but doable fit I think. I'll take a pic if you're interested - it's yours if you want it. One last bit - these cars really do respond well to a freer breathing exhaust, and in doing so, I'd also check you're catalytic converter and O2 sensor are good. O2 can be replaced with a generic one wire, cat you should be able to replace as well if needed. If the exhaust is in good shape - even upgrading it to the turbo rear muffler would make it sound pretty darn good as long as the baffles weren't loose. Otherwise a nice quiet performance muffler would be my choice. (Magnaflow or something similar.) Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted May 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 thanks for that, rabin -- you're right, it's an XN6 with CIS, i have already started educating myself... i got a new filter element & some of the red spray-on filter oil from k&n, but the housing for the filter is a bit puzzling -- it looks like i would have to unhook about 30 different hoses and clamps to get the thing open...that can't be right, can it? if you or any of the other members can shed some light on this, i'd appreciate it. might be interested in the housing after i get the car smogged, will let you know (thanks). as far as the exhaust system, the previous owner told me that the catalytic converter was "wearing out." when i asked him for more detail on this, mainly who told him this, he couldn't remember. could have been dono at westside peugeot in santa monica (car had a license plate frame from there), or it could have been the smog shop that failed the car last time around. i figured i'd be replacing the cat and the o2 sensor as part of getting the car ready to be smogged (along with the injectors). i enjoyed the articles on motoiq.com about designing one's own exhaust, and i thought it would be nice to replace the exhaust system with a new muffler, new cat, new stainless pipes (and maybe a resonator)...but the tubing used on the oem system is pretty small diameter (less than 2"). i'm thinking i would have to get a new flange welded onto the exhaust manifold to accommodate standard diameter exhaust pipes. the muffler was replaced at some point in the past by a midas shop, and they welded adapters to each end of the muffler to connect it to the small diameter factory tubing. would be interested in what you guys think about this... andre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted May 3, 2011 Report Share Posted May 3, 2011 i got a new filter element & some of the red spray-on filter oil from k&n, but the housing for the filter is a bit puzzling -- it looks like i would have to unhook about 30 different hoses and clamps to get the thing open...that can't be right, can it? if you or any of the other members can shed some light on this, i'd appreciate it. might be interested in the housing after i get the car smogged, will let you know (thanks). as far as the exhaust system, the previous owner told me that the catalytic converter was "wearing out." when i asked him for more detail on this, mainly who told him this, he couldn't remember. could have been dono at westside peugeot in santa monica (car had a license plate frame from there), or it could have been the smog shop that failed the car last time around. i figured i'd be replacing the cat and the o2 sensor as part of getting the car ready to be smogged (along with the injectors). i enjoyed the articles on motoiq.com about designing one's own exhaust, and i thought it would be nice to replace the exhaust system with a new muffler, new cat, new stainless pipes (and maybe a resonator)...but the tubing used on the oem system is pretty small diameter (less than 2"). i'm thinking i would have to get a new flange welded onto the exhaust manifold to accommodate standard diameter exhaust pipes. the muffler was replaced at some point in the past by a midas shop, and they welded adapters to each end of the muffler to connect it to the small diameter factory tubing. would be interested in what you guys think about this... andre Hi Andre, The air filter on an XN6 is an oil bath system with a steel mesh block thats partially submerged in oil. Servicing it is a bit of an ordeal as it's a bugger to remove the assembly (behind the battery down by the frame rail). Once out you can simply clean the dirty oil / gunk out of the bottom, clean the air box with varsol or similar mineral spirits, and refil with oil. I forget the amount - but it's not much. I have no idea what filter you got to replace it, especially if it needs K&N oil. I thought it was an archaic design that had to be very restrictive - but I was wrong. Flows incredibly well, and is one of the best air filtration systems around - very robust and it lasts for thousands of miles. As for the exhaust, the manifold should be a dual outlet. The down pipe should have two pipes that join to one, and where it joins to one pipe is where you'd have to change the pipe to a 2" and run it fresh from there. I'd very much recommend using a resonator AND a performance muffler as with only a rear muffler it can be a bit loed. I personally prefer a subtle and much deeper tone of a well done performance system that's still audible in the car slightly. Oddly enough - XN6's with nice performance exhausts sound awesome when done well, and they can really wake the car up performance wise. Certainly makes a mountain drive a lot more enjoyable with a nice rumble coming out the back too. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted May 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2011 I have no idea what filter you got to replace it, especially if it needs K&N oil.Rabin crap -- note to self -- never get a job where i have to write prescriptions for people. i got a box from k&n that has the red filter oil plus filter cleaner. going to use the red oil on my jetta's air cleaner (new k&n) and the filter cleaner on my 505's air filter element once i get it out. also got a replacement filter element in case the original is too far gone: andre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted May 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2011 As for the exhaust, the manifold should be a dual outlet. The down pipe should have two pipes that join to one, and where it joins to one pipe is where you'd have to change the pipe to a 2" and run it fresh from there.Rabin hmmm...here are a couple of pics of my exhaust manifold: both are taken from the passengers' side looking down, with the second one being taken from a bit farther back than the first. i think i may have the older style of xn6 manifold -- i have a single outlet manifold and only one down pipe. or do i have it backwards -- did the earlier xn6's have the dual outlet & the later have single? on the one hand, one usually thinks of engines getting more sophisticated over time...on the other hand, by '86 (when my car was made) peugeot had newer-design NA 4-cylinder engines and the xn6 was relegated to value models (like my GL). so i could see it going either way. most importantly, would it be worth my while to find an xn6 exhaust manifold with dual outlets? part of getting my car ready for smogging will be to replace key exhaust system components, so i might as well do it right while i'm at it and get a better-performing system as well... andre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted May 3, 2011 Report Share Posted May 3, 2011 Can you take a pic of the air filter side of the engine? The filter you have looks like it'd fit the old style air box assemblies that were on top of the motor... I've only seen these on carb'd XN1's though. Your car should have an oil bath which is another beast entirely and which will likely blow you're mind if you've never seen one before. Also - that exhaust mani is throwing me as well. Looks like the one on the engine from an 80' 505 SR engine I have in my 504, but without the air recirculation plate the pre 86' cars got. If you're redoing the whole exhaust and can find the dual outlet manifold I think it'd be worth the swap for sure. I plan on doing this very thing if I keep the XN1 in my 504. Reason being for me is that the dual outlet manifold is much closer to a 4-2-1 header that is known to have a much better torque delivery than a 4-1 manifold. Since the XN6 makes modest power, but has fantastic low end torque - anything that builds the strengths of the motor will feel the best. I used to have an 86' 505 STI with the XN6 5-sp, that was the fully optioned, and it had the dual outlet manifold for sure. Even 84' 505 GL and 85 505 STI I've had, both used the dual outlet manifold - but both older cars also had the air recirc plates. Maybe yours was just got the left over old stock since it was the GL? Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted May 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2011 here's photo from the front: and here's a photo from the driver's side looking down at the rear of the filter assembly: the unit on top is the fuel distributor, yes? andre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted May 4, 2011 Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 Yup - that's the oil bath set up with the fuel distributor on top. The air filter you pictured is definitely not going to work. You just need some varsol and maybe some 5w30 engine oil to refill the filter housing once you clean it. Keep in mind it's a bugger to get to, and to fully remove from the car so bank on at least a couple hours to tackle it. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted May 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 yes, i now see that the air filter element that i got is not going to work (it's for a zdjl or some such). between this forum and my discussions with rob courtier, i now feel ready to clean out my air filter (when i get the time). rob tells me it's rare that the element needs to be changed, he has used if i need them. a different question -- my GL has rear drum brakes, a similar setup to the wagons. aside from the obvious changes -- hubs, rotors, calipers -- is there anything else i need to change to get rear disc brakes? what about the master cylinder, etc.? andre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 a different question -- my GL has rear drum brakes, a similar setup to the wagons. aside from the obvious changes -- hubs, rotors, calipers -- is there anything else i need to change to get rear disc brakes? what about the master cylinder, etc.? andre Dood - I've never seen a sedan with rear drum in North America... You got some weirdo beast there my friend! That said - easiest way I can see to swap would be to replace the bearing carrier assemblies that have the disk and everything already on them. Brake lines should bolt up, but I think you'll need the master cylinder as well as you car likely has the wagon one. Bearing carriers on the disk brake cars have 4x 8 or 10 mm Allen bolts that are accessed through the big hole in the bolt mounting face. Bolts go through the carrier and thread into the swing arm. I'd also double check the rear axles are the same - but they should be. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted May 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 Dood - I've never seen a sedan with rear drum in North America... You got some weirdo beast there my friend! no, not really. here's a link to toni's site, it's the US peugeot brochure for 1986, you can see the specs for the GL. i think the GLs got the 2.2 engine in '87, but the liberté wagons that year still had the xn6 (like mine) iirc... i knew what i was getting, the craigslist ad i responded to had a picture and i could see the steel wheels, which means GL. as much as i whine about it, the car's in pretty good shape for its age, and it's fun polishing it to some of its former luster. plus, it was close to my house & i got it for practically nothin'... andre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted June 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 went to aaron's today in huntington beach, more parts: beautiful blue leather turbo seats to replace the tired blue velour low-back seats currently in my car. interestingly, the only visible wear is a slight bit on the bottom of the front passenger's seat, not on the driver's seat as you'd expect. maybe it had a cover on it or something. sail panel cover thingies, the vent ribs on mine have disintegrated. not shown -- firewall insulation panel; since aaron's car is an '88, it's in good condition but a bit dirty (as you'd expect), will clean it up. ordered new carpet, will post about it when it comes in (2-3 weeks), will give you guys all the details. thinking about dynamat or dynamat knockoff when i replace the carpet & seats...currently looking at b-quiet, the dynamat knockoff formerly known as brownbread. will re-run speaker wire at the same time. aaron showed me two of his cars, a tan renault r5 and a white citroen id (a ds variant). both were in amazing condition, but my camera spazzed out so i can't post the pics i took until i get it straightened out. had a good time hanging out with aaron while we got the parts together, he's definitely a kindred spirit. andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohms Posted June 9, 2011 Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 heh - those "new" seats made me gasp, they look that good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N9TE Posted June 9, 2011 Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 Nice stuff there André! The rear seats look to be 87+, but they'll work. I like the 87 seats better. Have you checked out Second Skin Audio's Damplifier Pro? Reviews on the interwebs put it pretty high. I used their firewall stuff on my 86's firewall cover. Their spray adhesive sucks, but the product itself did wonders for engine noise. Absolutely dying to see how the carpet goes. Carpet is trick to get right. After pulling many factory carpets, I've really come to appreciate the complexity of getting it right. Hope you went with a good supplier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal505 Posted June 9, 2011 Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 Wow, progress is looking great. Your seats look amazing. I too had just recently grabbed a pair of c-pillar interior vent covers, but I need to paint them the right color. You should strongly consider a rear-disc conversion, as well as a ba7/5 conversion too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pushgo Posted June 9, 2011 Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 Nice. Where is this place u got ur parts from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted June 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2011 koll -- i know the seats you are talking about, they are are styled similar to my "new" back seat, and are a bit more aggressively bolstered. now that you mention it, i am just now noticing that the fronts and the backs are a bit different -- the back seat has that later "slab" look, while the front seat has the horizontal rows of double-stitch. were these seats a complete set, or was the back seat or the front seats replaced at some point? i first saw these seats installed in aaron's car, the color is a perfect match (front/rear) and the styling of the backs of the front seat match the rear seats, so it never occurred to me that i might be getting a mismatched set...even if that's the case, it still looks much better than what i had before. thanks for giving me something else to obsess about... rob -- shopping around for parts for a rear disc conversion, thinking i'll get everything together (bushings, shocks, hubs/brake parts/etc.) and have a "rear suspension throw-down" one weekend. may eventually convert to a 5-speed, but not right away. the plan is to get my wife driving the car so she'll want one of her own (she can't drive a stick). she recently described her perfect car to me, sounds like a SW8. phil -- more like a "who" than a "where" -- aaron is a sometimes visitor to this forum, he's parting out an '88 turbo in huntington beach (orange county, about 45 minutes from me). here's the link to his latest CL listing. i've already bought a lot of parts from him, suspension parts are spoken for so choicest bits left are the recently-rebuilt transmission, the late-style alloys with nice center caps (he's already been getting offers for those) and the glass (green tint). tons of other bits and pieces, drivetrain parts, assorted trim, etc. andré edit: a quick bit of research shows that these are the earlier style front seats (or at least, the seat covers) so the originals must have been changed out at some point. still very happy with my purchase, they are in great shape and a big improvement over what i had before. the damplifier pro & b-quiet are in the same general price range (DP a bit more expensive, but insignificantly so), need to do some research on which to get... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N9TE Posted June 11, 2011 Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 Hey André, Have you given any thought to floor mats? Someone around here was going to pattern one from factory units and have them remade. If someone does that, I might be in for two sets. We should start a separate thread if we're going to push a group buy forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted June 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 i've thought about floormats -- my most recent thinking was that i was going to go with the lloyd's mats -- they still have the pattern on hand for the 505s, so you can get a set of their mats for around $200 for the four. imho, $200 for a set of great mats is not outrageous, but $200 is too much to spend on mats that i'm not in love with. so i like your idea much better, since i'm thinking these diy factory repros would be substantially less. also, since i have a blue interior, getting mats through the method you describe would mean i'd have a better chance of getting a good color match. in the case of my car's interior, the big problem i have is sun damage...some of the parts have outright disintegrated, like the sail panel/c-pillar covers and the plastic piece that fits between the rear seatbacks (under the folded-up armrest), but most of the rest have just faded with age & exposure. the place i'm getting my carpet from sent me samples, and while i found a shade that matched the interior pretty well, i could not find a shade that matched the rest of the carpet trim in the interior -- the faded pieces on the bottoms of the doors and the sides of the console. i solved that problem by ordering extra carpet material in the same shade as the new carpeting; i'll pull of the old pieces and use them for templates...that way, everything will match. the extra carpet i'm getting comes in 80" wide sheets and is sold by the running yard...i got 1.5 yards and it is costing me about $50. 1.5 or 2 yards would be plenty to do a full set of mats, i'm thinking. lloyd's has only one blue color ("dark blue"), but i'm not sure how it will look with my interior. the peugeot blue interior is more of a "pure" blue, many of the carpet samples i've looked at are more of a grayish- or greenish-blue. it'd be awesome to have the mats made out of the same material as my new carpeting... most car floormats have three components -- the carpeting itself, the binding and the backing. carpet and binding are easy enough (many sources), the backing is more difficult to source, as far as i can tell from my cursory research. some carpet sets, especially factory ones, have a heel pad on the driver's mat...nice to have, but not sure how you'd do that. lloyd's is sort of the mcdonalds of car mats -- all lloyd's mats are made to order in one place, and they are drop shipped to the buyer no matter who you buy them from. it's relatively easy to be a lloyd's dealer, since you don't have to stock any merchandise. their peugeot offerings, though, don't have a heel pad...you can't get a peugeot logo embroidered on them, and while you can get initials embroidered, you can't get "505" since i guess lloyd's considers that a trademark & they don't want the hassle. so one could make a mat set for our cars damn near as good as lloyd's for half the price, give or take. i've thought about doing this and selling them, but would anyone care as much as i do? don't know... andré btw -- i've read various threads around the 'net on how to rehab old car carpet, but mine has worn through in the driver's side footwell (you can see the metal floor panels through the hole in the carpet & insulation), so that wasn't an option for me. my medium-term plan for my car includes a professional window tint job, to protect all the work i'll be doing to the interior. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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