Bean Posted July 20, 2023 Report Share Posted July 20, 2023 I’ve had good luck eyeballing alignment - in one case it was more accurate than the included alignment tool! (Trans wouldn’t engage, but alignment tool fit. Thought it was spline count, but when I checked it was just out slightly. Aligned by sight, and it went together no problem) Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted July 24, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2023 Very very good progress made this weekend. I have fitted the engine into the car (had to swap out the STI cross member where the jack goes as it would not allow the engine to fit). It went in smoothly and even more amazingly I got it to start and idle! Its not perfect and took alot of trial and error with the wiring but all the cylinders seem to be participating. I can definitely hear the difference from that Danielson cam compared to stock. IMG_1404.mov Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted July 24, 2023 Report Share Posted July 24, 2023 That’s an awesome success right there Jayden! That’s no simple feat, so congrats man! Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted July 24, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2023 Thank you Bean. I am far from done yet though. I haven't got a clutch or transmission or torque tube put in yet. I have no suspension arms at all up front. However this running engine is very motivating for me to complete the project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted July 24, 2023 Report Share Posted July 24, 2023 Sounded good on FB! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted July 24, 2023 Report Share Posted July 24, 2023 Congratulation, it's not easy, but is doable it takes will and a lot of hard work. Skills are learn as you go. If you make the same mistake only twice you are a head of the rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted July 31, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2023 Thanks guys, I have returned from a vacation and have installed the cooling system. I still have to find a mounting spot for the overflow bottle. However a new issue has occurred I will have to sort out. The car is getting so much fuel that it only runs a few seconds after I cut the fuel pump off and pressure dies down. Taking big air hoses off almost has it running right. Either way progress is being made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted August 1, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2023 This isnt good. I have not even ran this thing for a grand total of maybe 5 minutes and already the dipstick is showing coolant in it, alot of coolant. On the plus side I got it to idle on its own properly. I just hope I dont need to pull this engine back out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted August 2, 2023 Report Share Posted August 2, 2023 The only spot where the two can mix is the head gasket. What did you use for a gasket? Head bolts? Torque value and sequence? You might need to check the head and block surfaces to make sure they’re flat. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted August 2, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2023 I used the stock gasket I got from Rob Courter for N9TEA engine. The head bolts I reused from the danielson engine. I followed the Torqueing value and sequence for the N9TEA head from the book. I had checked the head to make sure it was flat like the book said and it was. For the block I cant remember if I checked it for flatness but im pretty sure I did. Maybe I just need to retorque the head bolts after having it on the engine hoist for months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted August 2, 2023 Report Share Posted August 2, 2023 Worth a shot, otherwise if you can get a hold of a coolant pressure testing set up - that might help figure out what’s going on. Pull plugs as well when you test just in case the leak is there. Checking torque can’t hurt. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted August 2, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2023 I had a big coolant leak while i was on vacation and it leaked right over where the dipstick goes into the block. I wonder if some coolant got onto the stick and was tricking me into thinking there was coolant in the oil, because draining the oil I did not see any milky or watery fluids. After changing the oil I ran the engine for 5 minutes and coolant pressure built up as normal and the coolant level did not drop. The dipstick is also not showing signs of coolant. The thermostat seems to be working since after those 5 minutes the upper rad hose got nice and warm. I want a coolant gauge before I run it for much longer and my current cluster is only showing tachometer. At least the car starts right up and runs well now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted August 3, 2023 Report Share Posted August 3, 2023 If the oil's milky, don't run it any more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted August 3, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2023 Yeah im not sure what happened, but after changing the oil it seems fine. I have ran it for a while and the oil seems completely fine. Its running great im super eager to hear what this thing sounds like under load. Fingers crossed. Looks like the waterpump will need rebuilding. Coolant is slowly coming out the weep hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted August 6, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2023 Today I installed the wiring bits for the Temperature gauge. That was a bit of a puzzle but I got it figured out and it looks like the cars cooling system is doing its job. I also got the Throttle cable installed and the fuel lines at the back ready to accept the 88 Gravity fed tank. Its starting to come together. Transmission bits like master cylinder, T O bearing and other things are on their way so I can get this thing moving! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted October 7, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2023 Today the rebuilt waterpump and alternator arrived (after 2 months) so I put them in thinking I can finally drive this thing without coolant leaking out now that the clutch is working right... NOPE... instead the car just sputters and barely starts. It starts better with the cold start injector unplugged indicating to me that it is getting to much gas/not enough air. Spent all day going through random electrics and bits finding nothing wrong, any ideas guys? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted October 9, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2023 Well I found the issue, the NTC engine temp sensor had a wire broken off. And im guessing it sent a crap ton of fuel into the engine and it flooded where even after I fixed the wire it still wouldnt start. The exhaust was smelling very much like gas. Anyway the car is running again and its running great. Its actually disappointingly slow though with ignition timing at 12*, TPS adjusted. The boost was only at 5 psi as it was my first time testing boost. I didnt take it past around 4500 because I want to sort of ease into thrashing the thing. Either way progress is good and im happy with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted November 23, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2023 Alright i was close to getting the car on the road but iv hit a bit of a roadblock. The front right rotor has a busted off lug nut (I had to drill them off if you remember from other threads I made for other cars) and its ball joint is completely seized and dangerously sloppy. I have a spare rotor assembly but its very very rusty. I took the front right axle nut off to see how it comes apart and it looks like its got 8 allen screws holding it together. How the heck do I even get to those allen screws?? Alternatively is there some aftermarket slotted rotors that can fit for the ABS suspension? I really want to keep ABS and knowing that the cars brakes overheat and fade very easily... some slotted rotors would go nice with race pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted February 4 Author Report Share Posted February 4 Update time.. Need some input on this guys - I have been all over this car trying to solve this issue... Whenever I give the car any sort of throttle the engine will drop power and usually cut out. I spent a while trying to find a lead why its cutting out and eventually I put a fuel pressure gauge inline and it does go from around 35-40 psi while cruising to somewhere in the low 20s when it cuts out. The fuel pump also has a very pulsated squirting sound and I can feel the fuel output line of the pump vibrate in harmony with the sound of the pump. Whats strange here is if I turn the car off and wait a few minutes and then turn it back on and floor it I seem to have full power... for a few minutes until it slowly starts to develop the low fuel pressure issue again. Also when I first turn the car on the pump does not make weird noises only after driving for a while does it sound weird. Is there something im missing?? Things I have already done: I have changed from the original gravity fed fuel system to use a lifter pump in the spot for the sender unit. I have looked inside the tank and it looked clean but looks can be deceiving and its hard to see everything in there. I have not actually cleaned the tank though. I have replaced all the fuel lines before the external pump. Filter and pump were bought new when I put the engine in a few months back (OEM units) I have tested power to the pump is consistent while driving and that voltage is good. Tried another pump but to no success. On a good note the car is road legal and driving!! I got the busted lug bolt replaced along with swapping the wheel bearing 3 times, but its done now. I also had poor camber alignment causing the front tires to rub against the shock body, but I got that fixed up and is able to drive, except for the stupid fuel issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRDT Posted February 4 Report Share Posted February 4 How did you test the power? Did you use the same ground than the pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted February 4 Author Report Share Posted February 4 9 minutes ago, SRDT said: How did you test the power? I tested in 2 ways. I had a strip of LEDs connected with Alligator clips on the terminals of the pump to see that power was still there when the car cuts out as my multi meter is to slow to react. I also had my multi meter probed onto the pump terminals to read voltage, it was steady at 13.67. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted March 4 Author Report Share Posted March 4 Update time. After dozens of tests with the fuel system the issue has suddenly vanished and pressure is stable and where it should be (50+ psi of fuel pressure at full boost and rpms up). This is cool but it made it even more clear something else is wrong. Im pretty sure Blackie would beat this thing to 100 mph. With all the weight reduction and super shortened gear ratios I would have thought it would spin tires more. It really only spins in 2nd and thats if I send it from 1st to 2nd. I decided to pull the timing covers off and of course a bit of the head gasket busted when I did that. Think some RTV can seal it up? Reallllly dont want to have to pull the head off. More importantly I am skeptical about my timing chain tensioner work. Im a little confused still about how its supposed to operate. But I think I left the tensioner locked the entire time I drove the car and so it wasn't able to press against the chain well. I was able to rotate the crankpulley 4-5 degrees back and forth without the camshaft rotating due to the chain slop. Also because of the slop I think I had the cam pulley timed wrong. With the notch on the cam pulley lined up with the mark on the head I was seeing the crank pulley TDC mark sitting on the 4* retarded mark. Should it be bang on or is 4* off acceptable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V-M Posted March 28 Report Share Posted March 28 From experience I would say at you need to replace head gasket. It will leak, surely you can try. I have tryed it several times, also tryed to cut that front from new gasket and used silicon in that connection point but no luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted March 30 Author Report Share Posted March 30 On 3/28/2024 at 8:58 AM, V-M said: From experience I would say at you need to replace head gasket Yeah I ended up just cutting it and using silicone RTV stuff. I guess I lucked out because so far there are no leaks. I actually ended up using silicone everywhere I could - oil pan, timing chain covers n all. Not a single drop nor any oil seeping out, unlike before there was a tiny oil seeping slowly. Unfortunately it had no effect on the cars performance, its still very lacking in power. I took my blue stock 505 turbo and raced it against this thing. Keep in mind the blue stock car hasnt been gone through fully and the boost is lower slightly than stock... At lower speeds this danielson car does slightly have the edge on the stock car, but once your at high rpm in 5th gear it stops pulling and the stock car gets ahead. The danielson car runs out of power it wont rev to 6,000 rpm in 5th gear, which is nuts because it has the original STI diff which means I was only doing around 110 mph... I have no idea why the danielson car seems to have more power in the mid range rpm than up high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V-M Posted April 2 Report Share Posted April 2 Fuel pump? Have you lamda to read afr? Stock turbo? Stock turbo exhaust side is too small to handle over 200hp specially that newer model which has smaller even than early models. Temp and back pressure comes high when revs go up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.