Jump to content

V-M

Members
  • Posts

    654
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About V-M

  • Birthday 08/25/1964

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Finland

Recent Profile Visitors

13,053 profile views

V-M's Achievements

Apprentice

Apprentice (3/14)

  • Dedicated Rare
  • Conversation Starter
  • First Post
  • Collaborator Rare
  • Posting Machine Rare

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. Seem at kat versions has this EZ 200 K which looks information from knock sensor and lamda info and has no those pressure switches. I have some factory books about kat version. those are in germany lang but has good pictures.
  2. Should be same in 504,505,604, TAGORA except pickup models cause those have screw type rear axle.
  3. Should be there? next to gauge sender? Number 3 is switch, note at for me it was stuck cause there was moisture which was reacting with sensor internals and rusted inside.
  4. I made adapter from old plug, pipe and air connector. I would check timing and distributor gear play. Also distributor internals. Look with timing lamp if there inconstancy in spark and advance from idle to 4000-5000 area. I made one gear with slotting but it did not make realy difference with dani cam.
  5. Fuel pump? Have you lamda to read afr? Stock turbo? Stock turbo exhaust side is too small to handle over 200hp specially that newer model which has smaller even than early models. Temp and back pressure comes high when revs go up.
  6. From experience I would say at you need to replace head gasket. It will leak, surely you can try. I have tryed it several times, also tryed to cut that front from new gasket and used silicon in that connection point but no luck.
  7. Dude from Finland spotted 505 on his USA trip
  8. Have you checked detonation ecu box? I dont remember if its located same as earlier model, in earlier model its located under dash so at if heater valve is leaking it leaks directly to box and its not water tight. So in time it consume moist and starts fail. If its okay remember at least turn it so at connector is down to prevent it happen.
  9. Sent me PM and define what parts you need.
  10. New front plate. This is for NA engine but fits also to N9T. Only difference is at needs one spacer for steering pump holder, I have this same one on my car.
  11. Bearing set's available in 0,1mm and 0,75mm and 1mm, only main bearings, some shells (half's) for 0,2mm 6pcs. One Std set available for main and conrod.
  12. First measure crank and see how much needed for grind. In case its out off repair then I'll can look my storage for better option. Surely welding and regrind is possible but thats bit extreem in cost way cause it needs to be straighten also and of cause all grinding to top off that.
  13. Here is some info, first pdf is about na engine but crank and con rod sizes are same. That N9T does not list 1mm over size but I have those also. img20230209_20124398.pdf img20230209_20134674.pdf
×
×
  • Create New...