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  1. Thanks, Jerome. I had reached out via email and had an issue teaching that address. I did find one from Brian H, and now my head has cracked...
  2. I am definitely interested in this topic, as I am 99% certain that my car’s head has given up the ghost. Tom
  3. Ok, but...which one is the oil pressure sensor? I know the oil level sensor is in the pan on the left of the engine, below the oil filter, but I can’t say which is the oil pressure sensor.
  4. So, like most cars, the Peugeot is supposed to illuminate various warning lights in the cluster when you first turn the key on, but before you start the engine so you can confirm that the bulb is good and know that it will work if something goes wrong. In addition, the oil temp gauge is supposed to show the oil level when the key is on and the engine is not running. However, on my car, the only lights that are illuminating before starting the engine are the battery light, the yellow "knock" LED, and the "BRAKE" light. The oil level function isn't working, either. However, I have noticed that many of these lights do, in fact, work when the car is running. The low coolant light works, the fuel reserve light works, and the trans temp light works for certain, and I suspect that others are fine, too. What would cause these lights to work when the car is running, but not illuminate prior to startup as they should?
  5. Another item for the archives, if anyone is looking for it. The switch at the front of the transmission that threads into the banjo connector headed in from (or out to) the transmission cooler is an oil temperature switch, part #1131.11 - "Switch, N9T transmission temperature". It lights an orange light above the fuel gauge if the temperature of the ATF is too high (over 140, I think). I also found this thanks to Rob Courter @ Javel in Dallas. Pictures of the gauge, the old, broken, part and of the new replacement.
  6. Just adding some additional details. I found a Battery Hold Down Clamp via Facebook from Rob Courter at Javel, Inc. in Dallas. Part #5615.21. Here's a photo:
  7. Yes, it was the rheostat that came apart. It’s a maze of traces on a PCB that lifted off of the board and got tangled, then broke. There’s no fixing it from what I see. Tom
  8. I’m guessing that you haven’t seen the PCB...?
  9. Thanks, Rabin. The fuel sender wasn’t rusty at all, but the traces had lifted from the printed circuit board, and the float got tangled up in them, so it’s shot. I could probably swap in a good PCB, if I had one. Tom
  10. So, my fuel gauge wouldn’t go over 1/3 tank, so I pulled the sender (side note: I need a fuel gauge sender - do you have one?). To do this, I had to remove the rear seat, the CHMSL, and the rear speakers, along with the parcel shelf. While I had the speakers out, I popped the covers off and noticed that they were in pretty rough shape. $37.00 and a little solder later, and I have two new speakers sounding pretty good. This leaves me thinking I should inspect and likely replace the front speakers as well, but I can’t figure out how to get the kick panels off. Is there an easy way? Tom
  11. I am looking for a sunroof seal, as mine whistles at speed. I also noticed that there is no rubber seal between the power antenna on my car and the fender, so I figured I ask to see if that’s something anyone has available. Many thanks, Tom
  12. I am looking for a fuel gauge sender for my ‘86 505. This is the later-style with a three prong connector at the top. I’d be happy with an earlier style, too, but prefer the later. This is Peugeot part #1527.43. Thank you, Tom
  13. Nina, you probably realized this already, but that post was from over three years ago.
  14. Jerome, I am looking for a fuel gauge sender, but you e-mail bounced back as invalid. Is this something that you have? Tom
  15. I’m looking for a fuel gauge sender for my ‘86 turbo. Is that something you could pull from the parts car? Never Mind, I found one!
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