Alfanatiker

Found it! http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/373-results-of-n9t-cylinder-head-work/&tab=comments#comment-2089

Thanks. Lets hope August still has the information. Stuff like that is a "must know" if one wants to properly match turbo and injectors etc. Btw I know about the mentioned differences between the 150-180bhp cars. But I wondered specifically if the head was different in some way? Flow, cams, valve size, valve material etc. All possible to know. 😊

Hello guys! I am searching for the intake head flow numbers of the turbo injection engine. Is this information available somewhere? Are there differences between the years and the 150-180hp engines? And btw. Are camshaft data available? Lift in/out? Duration? Overlap? Lobe separation (LSA)?

Hello. Did you get any time to measure the flange pattern yet? 😎 Ronny

Flywheel and clutch on my turbo is 235mm. Is the older ones 215 like the NA-cars?

I guess that probably will be the way to go with my turbo, if the flange is interchangeable with the 505 without modifications.

Its quite easy to get adaptors from kkk to T3 flanges, so if the 505 used a kkk-design, then I might just get a adaptor? Bean: Are you able to measure the bolt pattern on one?

Still not cheap, but did you use Canada post, or what did you use? Here I tried calculating a 15x10x5in parcel with a weight of 10 lbs.

In that case, I would rather like a spare one from a parts car or something, so I dont ruin the only original I have for my car. If its possible to find? Unless its possible to find a ready build proper manifold with T3 flange?

What is different? The bolt holes, the outlet or both? Is it possible to modify it, like on the Volvos with flanges different from the T3?

I actually have a GTX2860R turbo with T3 flange, that I originally bought to another car. Which I've now sold. So my plan was to use that turbo, with a stand alone ecu and other injectors etc. But I might change the 5-bolt flange and put on a 3" exhaust temporary. While i further develop the rest of the car. I'll still need some proper suspension so I can use my Gotti wheels.

Finally! After a year, I now have a proper clutch! This is actually my original pressure plate that Spec clutch rebuild for me. As the first part they sent was for the normal 505's and not the turbo. I had to ship my original clutch, as that was the only way for them to do this work. Their suppliers couldn't get the right size. Clamp pressure is now 1900lbs and the clutch is rated and tested to 449 ftlb or 609nm!

Regarding proper fueling etc, thats my thought as well. And also I have read somewhere that the cars have had a tendency to run lean when original? That can very easy create problems. I will probably run this car with a wideband lambda from day one. So I have full control of what´s going on with this old system before I think of using the car hard. Even before I start changing the turbo and ecu etc. Regarding sodium valves. They can often break when under hard strain. And of course result in catastrophic consequences for the engine as a whole.

My engine had a rod knock, so I needed new rods anyway. Regarding pistons, I have never needed to change pistons on my turbo builds (not Peugeot btw). And I´ve always used original head gaskets. So I never saw the reason to do that in this engine either. Mostly it´s about adjusting for the correct AFR and advance. And hope that not old exhaust valves brake. Are these sodium filled btw? Or are they stainless or something else?

Hello Wales. I've always used the pre assembled setups from Diyautotune. I buy the ecu assembled, and then a harness in the preferred length I need. And then it's about 10 hours of work with soldering and positioning of the harness depending on where I put the ecu and sensors. Then another couple of hours with software based setup before I can think about trying to start the car. And from then on, normally there is some troubleshooting with sensors etc for a couple of days before the car actually starts. 😂 It all depends what I want to use of old sensors etc.