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Mike T

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Everything posted by Mike T

  1. Wiper switch connected and dash pad mounted, along with A-Pillar trim that can't be seen in the photo. Also, upper heater hose mounted, Peugeot NOS.
  2. Front part of the headliner trim was installed this afternoon, as were the wipers. Wipers took 30 seconds; headliner and sunvisors took a couple of hours to get right.
  3. New 404 KF2 head bolts (NOS) and seat spacers. The seat spacers were lost in the seventies when the second owner had the front seats reupholstered. Need 16 and I have 21 to use. My wife's seat may be a bit higher than mine if I add an extra 4.
  4. F & F Safety Plate, the brand of windshield fitted to my car since at least January 1974, when...the last vehicle test was done (not required since 1983) And the windshield is in!
  5. Not sure yet. It seems to me that to balance the lot it has to be mostly together (long block anyway) so maybe it’s better if they do it all. I’m happy to do it though.
  6. The pistons are domed and come above block height at TDC. The modern valve grind technique will no doubt be what the shop will recommend anyway. They used to do Rudi’s mechanical/machining. I’ll take their advice, whatever that may be.
  7. I have a brand new head to use. It will have hardened exhaust seats installed before use. I haven't discussed the scope of work with the shop in Victoria that I'll use for machining but at a minimum the moving train will be balanced on top of the usual machining needs. It might be simpler to have them do most of the work. Before whipping the flywheel off I punched the flywheel and crank end to mark their relative location. The head gasket will be a Reinz rather than bimetallic and that is thinner, hence the CR should move up to about 9.3:1 from 8.8. I expect the power will nominally be about 100 bhp. Reinz gaskets are better in terms of reliability too.
  8. So today was not much on the car front: I brought the 404 Coupé rear glass into the living room along with the new gasket and 8 stainless steel trim pieces - 4 long ones and 4 corners. The word on the street is that the trim must be mounted before trying to put the screen in. Well the long pieces are straight and the screen is a little curved so once installed, the trim has to be taped to the rubber so it won't pop out! I may try installing it Sunday, using string and dish soap.
  9. I've loaded a few from the past two days....sample semi-cleaning of one combustion chamber, cleaning old original seat slides (I have new ones that are different and should be better because they have bearings), some work on valvetrain, mounting of right front bumper side mount, using the engine hoist to get the flywheel off and then reattaching the block to the engine stand and then finally an initial inspection of 4 of the 5 main bearings.
  10. All the zap straps on the car are cut off flush, such as in the photo of the washer pump. The ones that aren't were only temporary. About hosting photos, I load these updates to several sites so in an effort to not duplicate the work too much, I sometimes copy the remotely hosted photo image URLs to save time. I could change that here if you're confident that you have enough capacity. Typical photo size is 3 MB.
  11. Mike T

    Great job!

    Thanks, Rabin, for getting this site up and running!
  12. December 21: The lower dashboard pad had a rusted captive bolt embedded in the backing foam that I replaced a day earlier...on the far right upper side. After being glued back in place and curing for a day, I mounted it: Steering column controls mounted (headlight, turn indicators, wiring to ignition switch): Note the cover for the rectangular hole in the steering column, part of the Nardi floor shifter kit: The fresh air intake gasket required a bit of a trim to allow the hood to be latched: A bit of light work after Christmas on the 27th: 1) wired up the extra interior light so it is a map light only (independent of the ceiling light)...may decide to change that later so it works with the doors too. 2) mounted the electric screen washer pump behind the steering column and got some new tubing to fit, as well as a new ABS T-fitting. Installed a one way valve so it won't drain back when not in use. 3) developed a wiring diagram to connect the Swedish market two speed rotary wiper switch, which also has a push function to operate the screen washer. The first owner fitted two speed wipers when the car was a few years old but I didn't like the rocker switch he used. Next I will tackle wiring up the switch or install the driver's door upholstery panel. May even attempt the rear window installation if I get ambitious enough. On Saturday the 28th of December the driver's door panel got mounted. You might think it's a 10 minute job, but it's not. The replica upper door panel is for a Cabriolet and required a whole lot of modification to fit. Both sill plates are mounted with the OE plastic rivets. On December 29th: Stainless steel rear exhaust mounted with original Peugeot OE belts/hangers: And the middle section is mounted too, held in place temporarily with a zap strap: Flexible hose between floor and torque tube mounted to my homemade brake lines: Right front brake hose mounted (the end is capped): And left front (you can see the cap on the end in this photo): Left front side bumper mount added. The cage nut had flown the coop many years ago and so getting the long bolt started into the nut I was hanging onto with a dab of butyl was a bit of a challenge but it worked better than my attempt with magnets! In 2020 so far I've degreased the original head, which is in good condition, for storage as well as the valvetrain. The rocker shafts are mega-scored and require replacement. I had three sets and all have some damage. Seems to be a weak point of the 404 engine design (I expect it's because of sludge blockage in the small oil galleries). I will buy two new ones from Germany, VERY expensive but NOS. I managed to put together a set of good rockers from my three valvetrains. I also mounted the right front bumper side support.
  13. That rubber's a bit too high to latch the hood so I'll have to trim it down a little soon. Today, I had a look at Sander May's stainless steel replica exhaust, and installed my NOS Peugeot heat shield . The diameter of the replica resonator is a bit smaller than the original Peugeot resonator in mild steel, so I had to make up a couple of small spacers in aluminium to allow the bands to clamp onto the body. Soon to be mounted on the car using all original Peugeot NOS mounting hardware. The third photo shows one spacer, which is on the upper side of the resonator, so it's not visible from below.
  14. Today I had about 4 hours to get some things done, so I cut the inner rear fender protectant and trunk floor insulation, mounted it, put the rubber mat in and clipped it into place with the 4 large modern plastic clips (better than the rubber originals and easier to use!). Then I mounted the front fuel line retainer that holds the two fuel lines at the front end of the car, mounted the cage nuts on the road wheels and finally glued the seal to the fresh air intake.
  15. Bent up the 8 mm copper-nickel tubing for the 2 fuel lines - using the old ones as a template and zap strapping them together during the bending. Then I mounted all the hard brake and fuel lines under the car. In the process I cleaned the garage floor, with my hair. 6 hours all in.
  16. Visible, it sits in the hole in the transmission tunnel carpet. I added a couple of photos to show that after I got home.
  17. $25 buys this Mercedes-Benz W115 manual shifter boot, perfectly sized for the Nardi floor shifter of the Peugeot 404. Super soft rubber. The one on the right is the old boot from the car. Just got it today in Victoria. Mounted it in the new carpet when I got home. Trimmed off the thick part of the rim from below, but the rings are perfect!
  18. More Cunifer line - seamless - bought, this time for the fuel lines (supply and return). I'll bend them up and mount them this weekend. Diameter is 5/16 inch (about 7.95 mm).
  19. The fittings aren't brass, they're cadmium plated steel. Brass is too soft. The procedure for working on brake lines is well known to me. The main outstanding item is that the Hydrovac booster needs to be sent out early in 2020 for a rebuild in the eastern USA. It was NOS in 1993 but has been on the car for 26 years. A new OEM master cylinder and some additional brake kits and sealing washers are on their way to me from Germany as we speak. Then I'll have all I need to complete the work.
  20. Jute-backed vinyl sound deadening glued onto cowl panel today. I also cleaned up the front brake cylinder springs and reassembled the rear brake proportioning valve.
  21. Brake lines are done, except for one little one that I need to buy two more unions to make.
  22. I used this new S.U.R.&R. PFT409 brake flaring tool..... ....to make my first ever brake line: And wow is that tool ever amazing! Perfect DIN bubble flare every time. The pistol grip tool is hydraulic. Expensive but worth it if only for the knowledge that I can't mess up. This line is the one that connects the two front Thermostable brake cylinders.
  23. 4598550, Carrosserie 10683, Cabriolet Injection 1966, Rouge China 1135, Cuir Noir 2000, Sold on eBay August 2019 for 28K Euros, PARIS FRANCE 4594251, Carrosserie 5989, Coupé Injection 1965, Blanc Saratoga 1031, KHARTOUM SUDAN 4591599, Carrosserie 2831, Coupé Injection 1963, Gris Graphite 1055, Tissu Beige, For restoration November 2019, SARTROUVILLE FRANCE Total: 2363 !
  24. I had not stored the car sensitively when I had it for 28 years in the garage, with the brakes last being bled in about 1991. So when I disassembled the car in 2016, the cylinders all looked awful and I thought they might be toast. Turned out they're not. New Cunifer brake piping - all metal lines will be replaced. Hydraulic hand tool to double and bubble flare en route from USA right now. You can see the brake cylinders before cleaning and painting. Rear brake proportioning valve piston - L=NOS (not so good); R=original (quite good). So the old valve will go back in the car. The two complete proportioning valves disassembled. The one with paint is the NOS one. Painted front wheel cylinders, which came up nicely after a hone. The old proportioning valve with the sealing nut off, showing how the piston appears. It was moving smoothly! Rear wheel cylinders (tiny bore, 16 mm) repainted and kits galore available to replace all the wear items.
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