SRDT

Basically the points will work as usual, it's just that there is no more high voltage passing them as the box is taking care of that. If the box fail you can simply bypass it with a short wire, older models had a bypass connector under the CARTIER cover.

New points made out of crap is often the main problem and for condensers it's better to hide a modern electronic component inside the old housing than to trust cheap new ones. In France a good trick back in the days was to go to the scrapyard and find a Renault to take the "cartier" ignition box they used. At the time when Peugeot had switched to electronic ignition modules Renault was still using points to trigger the cartier module. Not the best solution for your new Renault but pretty convenient for an older car. As for programmable distributors it's not exactly cheap and not all distributors are avaible so they are DIY options using an arduino. It's cheap, effective and seems reliable ; as a bonus the arduino can keep idle speed stable by adjusting timing on the fly.

I'm glad than the joke wasn't lost in translation, they are no coyote in europe so we don't associate them with roadkill, I think it should be the same for you with hedgehogs. As for your DD situation maybe after few weeks with the Mi16 you will like it even more. At first I only used my 309 for spirited driving but it's also pretty good as a DD.

Did you fall for the good old painted tunnel trick?

As long as the bock isn't cracked you could bore it for bigger pistons or use dry sleeves. The cracked head can also be welded.

The metal loop is on the low pressure side, many shops that deal with hydraulics should be able to make you one. http://www.miamistu.co.uk/pug/GB/405F/4/40H15A.HTM

After october 74 if it's the 1605cc engine then it must be euro spec but before that you need to know the engine code (807-12 or 807-13).

I found out a bit more about the US models: US ratings must be SAE, also the 843-13 engine is fitted with L-Jetronic fuel injection instead of D-jetronic. The 844-34 engine with fuel injection fitted in the Alpine A110 and A310 had 140 hp SAE / 125 hp DIN. That's exactly the same power and torque at exactly the same rpm than the 844-30 engine with twin DCOEs that was also fitted in these cars...

Proper gearing is needed to reach top speed but the max value is just HP vs CdA. I can't find values for the 505 turbo but the Euro V6 has a Cx (Cd) of 0.37 and a SCx (CdA) of 0.76 m² ; top speed is 205 km/h with 170 hp. The 180 hp turbo is at 210 km/h. The 200 hp Danielson reach 215 km/h but the SCx should not be exactly the same, they had wider tyres but also a few aero parts on the kit and maybe shorter springs.

What engine does it have? The french model had a 108hp engine with D-jetronic injection, the Alpine A310 1600 VF had more or less the same injection engine with 127hp.

There is a distinctive lack of US bumpers on this R17 and that is for the best...

The BX 4TC was set for failure from the start, it was a cheap Audi Quattro wannabe made with too much off the shelf parts. They could not use the 205 Turbo 16 powertrain, had too little money and as Citroën was all about FWD they could not even make a basic mid engine RWD car to at least fight with the R5 Turbo on tarmac. And if, somehow, they had managed to make a car that could rob victories from the 205 how do you think Peugeot would have reacted?

The Indenor diesel is ony a 4 pot but it's a huge one, if you can fit that then there is hope for one or two extra cylinders on a more compact engine. As for V8's it should not be too much of a problem when on top of the long diesel a wide SOHC 90° V6 was fitted from the factory.

I'm not sure Politecnic had special heads castings made, Danielson was using stock heads not fully machined from the factory. The JRD engines from the 70' had special heads and even blocks I think, the dual plugs head at least could not be stock.

Some glow plugs can stay on after starting the engine to avoid a rough cold start and cut on emissions, there is usually a more sophisticated control box with external sensors to go with it. One good thing with the control box is that you are unlikely to burn the glow plugs, you will also power them for the shortest time so they should last longer.

I can't tell you about the older box but the newer one is a bit more than a dumb timer. It will power the glow plugs for a set amount of time unless you cut ignition or try to start the engine, this maximum duration is for a cold engine in cold weather. There is a temp sensor inside the box to shorten this duration when possible, it doesn't act on the relay itself but on the light on the dash. This way you are the one shortening the heating time by engaging the starter as soon as the light goes off ; that means you can also choose not to do so if you know the glow plugs are old and need a bit more time.

If I got this right : up to MY82 20s duration since MY82 8s duration They changed both glow plugs and control box.

https://public.servicebox.peugeot.com/classic/AIDE/8505/03_505.html?id=sous_menu0|0_9 Groupe 1 1450.93 up to 84 1450.62 sedan since 84 It's probably hard to find today but it's just a pump to feed the main pump under the car so you don't need anything too fancy, I think you can even test the engine without it as long as you're not low on gas.

Do you have the "fast" glow plugs setup on your 81 car? From my experience the relay on the control box can be in need of a bit of cleaning, the blue box isn't supposed to be opened but it can be done. Another important thing to check is the big +12v feed to the control box, for years I changed glow plugs a bit too early and when it worsened I also brought a brand new control box... that behaved just like the old one.

Yes if it's not too much trouble to find another ECU you should try it, yours has the (52*) error code after all.

No problem, it's your car so you can take as long as you want. Just like me with my to do list... Well at least the good news is that the injectors should be fine in term of wiring so the problem must be elsewhere.

Injectors are supplied with +12V by the same relay than the ECU, the ECU fires injectors by supplying a ground. If the wiring is fine you should have the same voltage at pin 37 on the ECU and at the injectors.

There is a injector dead time correction depending on battery voltage but it's probably the voltage at the ECU and not at the injectors. This correction is more important at idle because the injectors are not open for long.

Maybe a bad connexion on the +12v side of the injectors or on the fuel pump.

It's colser to the engine, on top of the flywheel: What you have circled should be the reverse light switch.