Jayden M

Don't think so. In US the coil is mounted vertically right there and I dont see anything like that.

I have seen those curves and information about a pressure switch somewhere before but I think that is for European cars. I dont think we have that pressure switch in america

If I have my base timing at say 10 degrees at idle then what would you say is normal for me to see in the 4000-5000 area? 30 degrees?

Did this head get sold? Do you have anymore danielson heads or cams? I would happily buy one of you

I considered slotting the cam gear holes to adjust it properly but I was skeptical about it sliding around while running, just thought it was sketchy since I have never done something like that before. Valves are adjusted in spec. Compression test is not something I have done, hard to find a gauge to go in such a tiny spark plug hole, but ill do it eventually. Im super allergic to all this pollen so unfortunately motivation to go outside is very low. I start sneezing and eyes are so watery. Ick

I'v tried doing this, as in timing set to stock, idle at 900-950 and TPS set right, but the car is a good bit slower this way so that's why for now its at 20. Putting the timing at 20 degrees does require me screwing in the idle screw fully otherwise I have like a 1500 rpm idle . Believe me its scary having the timing at 20 degrees at first but it runs so much better like this. I don't want to push this thing that hard but I don't think I am. It's not like this thing is down 20hp it's down 80 or 100. If blackie has 180 hp then this thing might have 160. I think something thats telling is that the power band is so wrong. It encourages shifting a little before 6000 because the power drops off pretty hard around 5800. Its interesting you say that. I don't know how off this is but with the cam pulley tdc notch lined up with the mark on the head - that puts the crank pulley at 4 to 5 degrees of retard. Problem was if I used the next tooth on the timing chain it would make it be at like 10 degrees of advance so 4 degrees is as close as I could get it unless I was missing something.

Fuel pump is a new oem one. Fuel pressure is smooth and steady and within spec at any load range and rpm. The turbocharger is a stock one, but its a big watercooled one from an N9TEA engine, .42 AR I believe. I have not done lambda readings, but the O2 sensor is in and should be functioning as normal. I'd check it but im not sure what numbers mean what in terms of voltage readings. These are all the things I thought and checked too and so far all i'v checked seems normal... mostly... TPS is adjusted in spec like it should and hasn't changed over the past few months so that's fine. Boost seems to build rather quickly, 5th gear 2000 rpm and not even 2 seconds later its holding a steady 13 psi by 2500 rpm. Boost is steady all the way up to the limiter too. I have yet to do a cylinder compression test, mostly because every kit I find does not have the bits small enough for these tiny ass spark plugs lol. Now about the timing. This is the most interesting part. I have the ignition timing set to 20 degrees of advance. Now I know your probably thinking what in the hell, but it doesn't seem to be knocking. Originally I had this thing set to 12 degrees (which is within spec), but after setting it to 20 I have gained more power everywhere and seemingly with no drawbacks. Heck I used to have it set to 25 degrees but my dad said he may have heard a little knock at 25 so I brought it back down to 20. Also about the timing staying static... the timing advanced 10 or 15 higher than base timing if I rev it up to around 1800 so that seems to be doing fairly normal. Honestly this thing is just so weird it TOTALLY should not be able to run 20-25 degrees of timing advancement.

Yeah I ended up just cutting it and using silicone RTV stuff. I guess I lucked out because so far there are no leaks. I actually ended up using silicone everywhere I could - oil pan, timing chain covers n all. Not a single drop nor any oil seeping out, unlike before there was a tiny oil seeping slowly. Unfortunately it had no effect on the cars performance, its still very lacking in power. I took my blue stock 505 turbo and raced it against this thing. Keep in mind the blue stock car hasnt been gone through fully and the boost is lower slightly than stock... At lower speeds this danielson car does slightly have the edge on the stock car, but once your at high rpm in 5th gear it stops pulling and the stock car gets ahead. The danielson car runs out of power it wont rev to 6,000 rpm in 5th gear, which is nuts because it has the original STI diff which means I was only doing around 110 mph... I have no idea why the danielson car seems to have more power in the mid range rpm than up high.

Update time. After dozens of tests with the fuel system the issue has suddenly vanished and pressure is stable and where it should be (50+ psi of fuel pressure at full boost and rpms up). This is cool but it made it even more clear something else is wrong. Im pretty sure Blackie would beat this thing to 100 mph. With all the weight reduction and super shortened gear ratios I would have thought it would spin tires more. It really only spins in 2nd and thats if I send it from 1st to 2nd. I decided to pull the timing covers off and of course a bit of the head gasket busted when I did that. Think some RTV can seal it up? Reallllly dont want to have to pull the head off. More importantly I am skeptical about my timing chain tensioner work. Im a little confused still about how its supposed to operate. But I think I left the tensioner locked the entire time I drove the car and so it wasn't able to press against the chain well. I was able to rotate the crankpulley 4-5 degrees back and forth without the camshaft rotating due to the chain slop. Also because of the slop I think I had the cam pulley timed wrong. With the notch on the cam pulley lined up with the mark on the head I was seeing the crank pulley TDC mark sitting on the 4* retarded mark. Should it be bang on or is 4* off acceptable?

I saw a listing on FB marketplace for a Mi16 just like yours in Buffalo - are you selling the white mi16 Joe? Surely there is not two Mi16s in the same area.

I tested in 2 ways. I had a strip of LEDs connected with Alligator clips on the terminals of the pump to see that power was still there when the car cuts out as my multi meter is to slow to react. I also had my multi meter probed onto the pump terminals to read voltage, it was steady at 13.67.

Update time.. Need some input on this guys - I have been all over this car trying to solve this issue... Whenever I give the car any sort of throttle the engine will drop power and usually cut out. I spent a while trying to find a lead why its cutting out and eventually I put a fuel pressure gauge inline and it does go from around 35-40 psi while cruising to somewhere in the low 20s when it cuts out. The fuel pump also has a very pulsated squirting sound and I can feel the fuel output line of the pump vibrate in harmony with the sound of the pump. Whats strange here is if I turn the car off and wait a few minutes and then turn it back on and floor it I seem to have full power... for a few minutes until it slowly starts to develop the low fuel pressure issue again. Also when I first turn the car on the pump does not make weird noises only after driving for a while does it sound weird. Is there something im missing?? Things I have already done: I have changed from the original gravity fed fuel system to use a lifter pump in the spot for the sender unit. I have looked inside the tank and it looked clean but looks can be deceiving and its hard to see everything in there. I have not actually cleaned the tank though. I have replaced all the fuel lines before the external pump. Filter and pump were bought new when I put the engine in a few months back (OEM units) I have tested power to the pump is consistent while driving and that voltage is good. Tried another pump but to no success. On a good note the car is road legal and driving!! I got the busted lug bolt replaced along with swapping the wheel bearing 3 times, but its done now. I also had poor camber alignment causing the front tires to rub against the shock body, but I got that fixed up and is able to drive, except for the stupid fuel issues.

I read most of your post on the mi16s, I just dont usually have any input being that I dont know much about em. Iv done a crap ton of work on my 505s this winter I just never posted anything because I also didnt think anyone was interested.

Are you going to shine up the valve cover?

The tachymetric relay, tachometer and fuel pump are all very very likely to fail independently from one another when the car sits for a while. Also the ECUs at nearly 40 years old like to go bad too. Basically anything with capacitors in it are questionable. More than likely the relay, tachometer and ECU can all be repaired by someone good with electronics, which is what I'd do. A friend of mine has taken broken relays and tachs and ecus and gotten them to work perfectly. 9 times out of 10 its just capacitors that have gone bad and need replacing.

Alright i was close to getting the car on the road but iv hit a bit of a roadblock. The front right rotor has a busted off lug nut (I had to drill them off if you remember from other threads I made for other cars) and its ball joint is completely seized and dangerously sloppy. I have a spare rotor assembly but its very very rusty. I took the front right axle nut off to see how it comes apart and it looks like its got 8 allen screws holding it together. How the heck do I even get to those allen screws?? Alternatively is there some aftermarket slotted rotors that can fit for the ABS suspension? I really want to keep ABS and knowing that the cars brakes overheat and fade very easily... some slotted rotors would go nice with race pads.

Well I found the issue, the NTC engine temp sensor had a wire broken off. And im guessing it sent a crap ton of fuel into the engine and it flooded where even after I fixed the wire it still wouldnt start. The exhaust was smelling very much like gas. Anyway the car is running again and its running great. Its actually disappointingly slow though with ignition timing at 12*, TPS adjusted. The boost was only at 5 psi as it was my first time testing boost. I didnt take it past around 4500 because I want to sort of ease into thrashing the thing. Either way progress is good and im happy with it.

Today the rebuilt waterpump and alternator arrived (after 2 months) so I put them in thinking I can finally drive this thing without coolant leaking out now that the clutch is working right... NOPE... instead the car just sputters and barely starts. It starts better with the cold start injector unplugged indicating to me that it is getting to much gas/not enough air. Spent all day going through random electrics and bits finding nothing wrong, any ideas guys?

Hey Rabin, sorry to get back to you after so long. I ended up putting Blackies original Torsen differential in the car to try it out, and it is sooooo much more quite. I have been enjoying the noise reduction but its not perfect and it has been getting louder over the past 2 months I have had it in (and I have not driven the car much). So I know I need a future plan for a differential since this one is also on its way out. I did take a look at the bearings and its hard to make out but I believe it says TIMKEN LM603011. Id like to keep a torsen in this car if possible. EDIT: When I drained the fluid of the spare cars differential that I used for a few years it was fuuuulll of metal flakes in it. After flushing the flakes out and using the differential for a few more weeks I drained the fluid again and saw no metal flakes.

Which engine in the 405 is the waterpump for?

Today I installed the wiring bits for the Temperature gauge. That was a bit of a puzzle but I got it figured out and it looks like the cars cooling system is doing its job. I also got the Throttle cable installed and the fuel lines at the back ready to accept the 88 Gravity fed tank. Its starting to come together. Transmission bits like master cylinder, T O bearing and other things are on their way so I can get this thing moving!

Lol. I had that happened to me I closed the door by pushing on it and dented it in. The thing is so easy to dent its bonkers. But supposedly it can turn corners very well... I wouldn't know though since mine has only gone around corners on the back of a dolly.

That does look good. I Wasnt a fan of the "409" but this one has kind of changed my mind.

Yeah im not sure what happened, but after changing the oil it seems fine. I have ran it for a while and the oil seems completely fine. Its running great im super eager to hear what this thing sounds like under load. Fingers crossed. Looks like the waterpump will need rebuilding. Coolant is slowly coming out the weep hole.

I had a big coolant leak while i was on vacation and it leaked right over where the dipstick goes into the block. I wonder if some coolant got onto the stick and was tricking me into thinking there was coolant in the oil, because draining the oil I did not see any milky or watery fluids. After changing the oil I ran the engine for 5 minutes and coolant pressure built up as normal and the coolant level did not drop. The dipstick is also not showing signs of coolant. The thermostat seems to be working since after those 5 minutes the upper rad hose got nice and warm. I want a coolant gauge before I run it for much longer and my current cluster is only showing tachometer. At least the car starts right up and runs well now.