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About Goce

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    Peugeot Enthusiast

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    Kumanovo, Macedonia

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  1. Today i begin assembly on the engine for the 607. Started with cleaning all the paint from the machined surfaces with a razer blade. Then i used some strong solvents to clean the main bearings, caps and the engine block. When i was cleaning i clean out the oil jets main cap bolts all 72 of them. Then i started with the oil jets torquing them i also used some loctite on them. Then i installed the crank bearings, they are made by Ford. Oil them and dropped the crank, i also used a little bit of silicone on the back oil seal cover. Then came time to torque all the bolts, i used couple of torque wrenches and angle gauges. I wasn't too sure about one bolt so i unbolted all of them and re torqued all of them again, by the time i was done my arms are hurting.
  2. Welcome to the forum, i like you approchee to cars first service them then drive them care free. Two of my close friends recently bought imported cars and started driving them right away, with in few days one broke its cam belt and destroyed its engine, the other one destroyed its automatic transmission all of that could been prevented with a service. About driving Mi16, they drive very different than MR2's, the 405 it's a front engine FWD car but if you left off mid corner they can over steer like a RWD car at a decent speed so don't get scared. Also there power band is similar to Lotus engines, they make all the power in the higher end above 4--5000 rpm. One thing you can do now is to install grease fittings in the rear swing arms to grease them up the swing arm bearings before they fail. Its a weak point of any 405 except the 4x4 variants it's a big job when they need to be replaced. If you want to know anything about a 405 just ask there's a lot of knowledge on this forum.
  3. I've had the same problem with couple of my 405's with the battery draining and needing a high amp jump start, there are couple of things going on in each case. First was a bad battery it has a bad sail and it will drain itself, easy enough to check just swap batteries with other known good one. Bad chassis to engine ground is very common on 405, buy 2-3 thick ground cables and connect them from the battery to the chassis, from the battery to the engine block and from the engine block to the chassis. And most difficult to find is a partly failing diode in your alternator there is no good way to test it i've had some luck with thermal camera on a cold day the alternator is warmer than the engine. You should also disconnect all aftermarket devices like radios, alarms radar detectors... Last thing i can say is from experience, the Mi16 especially the XU9j4 engines are very tight tolerance engines, they get tight, hard to start if not driven often, i've had my mi16x4 what sound like a weak battery and in fact is the starter motor struggling to turn the engine over because its been sitting for a week and all the oil has drained back in the oil pan. I've found if i crank it over 3-4 times and then stop wait for 5 sec then try starting it it starts much easier, it gets oiled. I hope this wasn't too boring to read and i've not made too many mistakes writing it so you can understand it.
  4. Oh, i can't wait to get it assembled, the heads are work of art, 12 intake runners 24 valves quad cams, then it will be worth taking a picture of.
  5. Today spent a lot of time cleaning and painting the engine block i clean the entire block with gasoline in a spray bottle, wire brushed couple spots and left it to dry. I want to paint the block to enclose the rust on the outside also to make it look better. After looking at the paints i had on my shelf i did not like any of them so i mixed me a unique color just for it. I started with a white base added silver and black to get this pearl color. I used a no:10 brash and painted the entire engine block. This took me entire evening i'll clean up the machined surfaces with a razer blade ones it harden. I'm sure it will not even be visible once in the car but i feel better when it's clean.
  6. When everyone is running around buying food because of the coronavirus i'm buying car parts. I bought me couple of jugs of engine oil, some antifreeze, two head gaskets, oil pan gasket and couple more seals and some loctite. The parts prices on this engine are insane in fact what you see here cost me more than i make in month.
  7. Money wise, if a shop was doing the work i'll be even like buying a working one and i'll still have to do all the maintenance that is expensive. By doing the work myself i'll have a fully serviced car at half price. If you've notice i'm not in a rush i'm taking my time and with this corona virus i have a lot of time.
  8. Today i started with cleaning the engine block for this car. Started by making an adapter and mounting it on an engine stand that i recently made. Now i can see it at an eye level and turn it all around i can see some interesting design details, it has very thin main reebs with 6 bolts holding them, the caps are pretty biffy and the bottom is very open, it also has channels cast in the outside walls to the oil to drain from the heads, that you can see my finger in one of the turbo oil drain, this requires a special gasket that is more like a spacer than a classic gasket. After admiring the design i set up couple of tires pans to catch the diesel fuel i'll be using to clean this block. I used new razors blades brass brash stoft brash 3M abrasive pads to scrub every inch of the block inside and out, the engine was pretty clear to start with but as i clean it i started to see some familiar details it reminded me of the american 6.7 powerstroke. And now as i was going to write this thread i did a bit of looking and found out that in fact is an Ford engine, the same found in the new Ford F 150 3.0 powerstroke so be aware if you own one. Never the less as i was finishing with the cleaning i cut open 6 pepsi bottles and stacked all of my pistons in them and filled them with diesel fuel and will let them sit to break down the carbon on them as for cleaning the block i'll be back tomorrow to do one more phase of cleaning it with petrol.
  9. Rabin, „Готов“ translated means done or finished and my english is not perfect i should have used finished. The prices are relevant to the people's earning here average mounts pay is 200- 350 $ so everything is less expensive except the things that are imported, i don't doubt that machine work is 10x more expensive because the earnings are 10x more. As for parts for this engine they are expensive, 550$ for crank and rod bearings, 150-175$ for two head gaskets, 230$ piston rings, timing belt kit 320-400$ some things are in stock but most of them have to be ordered from germany or france and with the borders shut down because of the coronavirus i'll be doing a basic refresh, today i'm starting on it and i'll have one more update later today.
  10. Well the Machine shop called, "your block is done" - What about the heads, -Oh forgot i'll put them on the machine right now you can start heading over. So i went there, i had a hell of a time to drive to the other side of skopje because of the coronavirus, because they are located near couple of the hospitals in the main city. I had to go thru couple of parking lots, jump couple of sidewalks and by passed the police blocks. When i got to the machine shop they were surprised how i've gotten a car pass the road blocks. The machine shop had done a good job resurfacing both engine blok and heads, they also checked the bores and main caps its all in specs i loaded them up also couple of the guys that worked there and headed back i dropped off the guys in the city centre. You can see one head has less material taking off because it was resurfaced once before and they made them even. The price for their work was 50$ which isn't too expensive but if it was a straight 4 or 6 it would been 15$
  11. Today was one of those days one step forward three steps backwards, all started few days ago with 3 glow plugs snapping on me. First i thought someone had hummerd in the wrong plugs in because they are very tight fit to the point they make the cracking noise like when loosening a very tight bolt all the way to the end. But after a bit of cleaning on the holes that glow plugs come out they are full of carbon that is sto hard it needs a drill bit to clean out. I tried soaking the rest of the broken pics with couple of different solvents to dissolve the carbon but no luck i weld on nuts, it will move a little then break off i've done it so many times i lost count. At the end i got my cordless drill and drilled them out. Drilling them was a bit hard it is had metal, but after a few hours i finally managed to knock them out i took a picture of what was left after i removed them what was left on the table and packed both heads in a big banana box to take them the the machine shop.
  12. Today i spent some considerable time fighting with the stuck glow plugs, both ones i welded on the right head broke and are not moving even with heat or a 3 Kg sliding hummer. So i started on the other head, the middle glow plug come out with some effort but the back one again in old fusion broke with no effort, so with that in mind i started to work on the first one and with a lot more effort it also come out, i also disassembled the entire left head cams lifters caps rollers everything marked and removed in order.
  13. There is also 3,0 hdi making 245hp used in the 407 same engine bigger pistons. There is one big and very common failure that is the crank and conrod bearings also crank braking. There is Lots of jaguars and land rover, range rovers, freelanders with defective 2,7 diesel engines selling for 1/2 and 1/3 prices. They all have rod knock it seams vehicles with longitudinal engine placement safer from this more and looking at the oil pan there is no baffling so keep that in mind. About swapping it in different vehicle, it looks like it's an afterthought when installed in the 607, i'm saying that because the wiring loom is made to come out very easy and only few wires are going in the passenger compartment i'm sure with a wiring diagram anyone can supply power, ground and transponder signal to make it work outside the vehicle. its not a Can bus system.
  14. Rabin, after taking apart this engine to its smallest bits i can tell that is not a good design, the conrods are thinner than on a vespa, and both crank and conrod bearings have no notches to locate them and keep them from spinning a bearing, the engine block has no reinforcing ribs, and the crank is very thin in the middle many of the parts, like the bearings, seals, sensors are from Ford so they are build to a price point. In my opinion best engines peugeot ever made are the XUD series. When serviced per instructions they can run forever, the xud11ate in my daly driver in my daily driver is past the 2M Km mark and is still going strong. I may spend some more time documenting the assembly to show the good and bad points, the valve train is a work of art both chain and belt driven 24v hydraulic lifters rollers on everyone of them.
  15. Today i started on striping the cylinder heads, someone has installed land rover glow plugs in them, they have the same engine but the glow plugs are a bit fatter in fact they are press fit. i spent lots of time, heating them, using couple of types of penetrating oil they all started to turn but won't come out i managed to get out one in the middle and broke the heads of the other two. I also marked all the caps with letters and removed the caps, rollers and hydraulic lifters. Been frustrated with the stuck glow plugs i welded the broken heads to the glow plug and stopped for today to let them cool down and my nerves take a rest.
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