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Goce

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About Goce

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    Peugeot Enthusiast

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    Kumanovo, Macedonia

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  1. Yesterday and a bit today i did some work on this car. Work that had me waiting for parts for months and once they arrived i've been putting it off. The work in question is the drivers window, because someone sideswiped the car before i bought it and broke the plastic sliders that peugeot used. Those sliders are garbage so i ordered me stronger ones made from aluminium, mainly because i was missing the steel clamp that clamps the window. The new sliders arrived about a month ago but when i went to installed them i realased the cables are messed up. Someone has been spinning the window motor an
  2. Joe, that is very good thing about any X05 peugeot, maintain it as intended and they always work, the reliability is excellent. Now days in my country most popular peugeot are X07 and x08 series and people that have owned older series are saying new ones just don't have the reliability and some of the cheaper models have lost that driving dynamis that good car has. I've recently been looking to buy a diesel engine and people that have a good X05 peugeot do not want to sell them especially if they are diesel.
  3. Yes, factory diesel niva's have aluminium mounts, and almost all broke, but lada drivers are handy so they just made new ones from steel, from what i've been told the mounts can snap downshifting uphill, being a lada it won't leave you stranded the diff will stay in place hold up by the inner CV joints rubbing on the frame but destroys the CV and the U joint on the drive shaft, because of that i'm considering to make it much stronger, i'm also debuting should i use 50mm solid rubber bushes for the mounts or use the 70mm torque mount bushes from a peugeot 405, the engine mount at the back next
  4. I've looked at others designs for mounting the front diff independently from the engine, mounting the front at the inner cv joints is no brainer, but at the back where the driveshaft bolts up there is no good place to bolt it to. Having the front mounts go all the way back may be a good solution but as memory serves there is where the exhaust passes thru. I've searched online how to properly support a front diff but there is nothing. Any advice or experience, if a support the front with two mounts should i run one or two also in the back, also how big or what size of rubber mounts to find and
  5. I spent some of it working on the Little Niva. Took the hood off, took the front section of the exhaust, took off the the front metal shields, removed some of the wiring just to protect it and make more room. I need to disassemble the front suspension, so i can pull the front driveshafts and make mounts for the front diff, also i've been told i should make shield for the diff. It's a very strange way the diff is mounted, is bolted with 3 bolts straight to the engine, can't imagine the movement of the engine when it torques is good for the axles or the driveshaft.
  6. Sweet, enjoy it. Don't forget those engines enjoy punishment, they want to be revved out, keep it above 4500 rpm they love it.
  7. Today i started on the design of the adapter plate, i started with a piece of MDF with the design in wood i'll make it out of steel later. Drill couple of holes for the shaft on the gear box to slide into, the shaft on peugeot gearbox prouds 10mm and the shaft has no wobble. I marked the holes, and the outline, then i drill the holes. Then i spent some time finding the cut peugeot engine block, on which i check the holes are right, then got the cut gearbox part and checked the starter holes, they all match. Then i needed to put the lada gearbox on the other side so i can mark its holes. The sh
  8. I got started tearing apart the little niva, it's like i've been there yesterday but its been a year. Started by lifting it and putting it on jack stands, then draining the coolant which looks awful then cooling lines, radiator, starter, alternator, distributor, spare tire support and a bunch more surrounding pieces. I'm doing it straticikli, so i don't need to do it twice, i need to make mounts for the front diff, because its bolted to the engine and the new engine has no provisions for those mounts.
  9. I'm sure insurance works different than here, but last time i had an accident with my Mi16x4, the insurance company valued my car at 500 euros, i'm pretty easy going i told them i'm paying close to that in registration and insurance every year, their answer was so what is a 91 POS. That is disrespectful, and from talking to others they intensonaly what to cause conflicts so people don't want to deal with them. So i went to the main peugeot dealer and got me an estimate for them to do the repairs with all OEM new parts and their high hourly labor. The estimate was like 2500 euros and because i
  10. I've had good luck at ebay.uk, here they are available in parts stores, you can probably find one in your big parts store they are used on all vehicles not peugeot specific, here is a link of ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=peugeot+oil+cooler&_sacat=0&_pgn=1 I won't recommend buying a used one because it will be plugged up or worse is removed from an sized engine and has metal shaving in it.
  11. Those engines love to rev, i remember when i first got my Mi16x4, i let a friend take it for a drive he come back first thing out of his mouth, there no way that is a stock engine. It revs like a motorcycle. Joe, a lot has changed since you started driving your car, with how bad it was running at the beginning it wasn't make full power, now it is. The oil temps should come down once you leave it to idle before shutting it down, i never shut down any of my cars with oil temp higher than 110 c. Oil cooler is easy enough to change, two coolant hoses one 27mm thru bolt and it comes out, there are
  12. Update time, last couple of months i've been using this car a lot, the little niva is apart, and the 605 is resting, lets start with the good things. The engine is running perfectly, no check engine lights at all, the fuel economy has improved, the gearbox is shifting smoother, less valve body sticking, i've learn more about it its power band, its sweet spots. I've put it thru couple more cooling system torture tests and it is not overheating. But that is where the good news stop, i'm having a slow coolant leak, only place where i can find coolant is the valley of the engine it is probably the
  13. No the engine is not 1,8d it is the DW8 1868cc 51kw. Do you have any preference for head gaskets, something that can hold boost ?
  14. I talked to a guy who worked in the shop that the crank come from, he doesn't remember they ever working on any 16v peugeot engine, they dealt more with diesels. He said i'm not surprised the ex owner probably used his word playing and said forged rods and crank, because of that he got closed and no one can find him now. During the winter i'll be disassembling the turbo head, i have couple more spare heads that i can use parts from, also one more engine showed up for sale, but it is a 1868 N/A with lucas pump, i'm not sure is it worth the hassle. I've worked for Vanhool buses, even there on th
  15. To be honest i don't remember if i looked at the cranks parting line when i bought it, to see is it cast or forged, but now you've mention it i look at it and you are right, it has a thin line which means it is cast, i'll probably use the turbo crank, that one has thick parting line and is definitely forged. Any advice for which camshaft to use, what manufacturer of head gasket to look for ?
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