N9TE Posted August 27, 2011 Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 This is gonna be a niiice car when you're done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal505 Posted August 27, 2011 Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 Muy bien! I figure someday, maybe as my next summer's back-from-school project, I'll do the same. Thanks for the motivation! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peugeottogo Posted August 27, 2011 Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 Looks great Andre! Will be a noticeable difference in road noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted August 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 thanks for the motivation, guys. doing the front, as you see, took just over half of a 9-piece "bulk pack" of dynamat (about 4.75 pieces). i got the tape as well, to cover up the joints. need to order another box or two, it'll take at least one more to do the interior (not including the doors). the dynamat is really easy to install. the hardest part is removing the seats, console & carpet/padding. i did the amount of work you see in about two hours. doing the whole interior should take another two or three hours, so this could easily be a weekend project if you are motivated. i had seen photos of people installing dynamat using a heat gun, but the material was really easy to work with on a warm california summer's day and i didn't need a heat gun at all. i may end up doing the roof as well. my headliner is in pretty good shape, but i've just discovered a small split seam (about 2 inches) right above the driver's seat. if i remove the headliner to get that fixed, that'd be a perfect time to do the roof. also -- when i removed the rear console, the threaded plastic inserts that the screws went into fell apart. i'm talking about these guys: i found a good replacement by dorman at my local auto parts store (pep boys), should be available all over: andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pushgo Posted September 3, 2011 Report Share Posted September 3, 2011 Hey andre, How much did the materials cost for dyno mating? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted September 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2011 phil -- as arun pointed out in another thread, amazon has the best deal going right now on the dynamat "bulk pack" of 9 pieces (currently about US$133 per pack w/free shipping). when you combine the bulk pack price, free shipping and amazon price, it's not that much more expensive than the knockoffs. it's not hard to install, as i mentioned the worst part is stripping the interior (which i was doing anyway). good long weekend project, as rabin said in that other thread. two packs should be more than enough to do the floor from the firewall to the rear window; arun's estimate of 3 packs to do the floor, doors and roof sounds right, i will be able to give you more details when i have time to get to my car again. this past week has been a vacation week for my family (really more of a "stay-cation"), so i've been spending time with the kids and working on my house lately. andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted September 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2011 should have some time next week to finish dynamat-ing, should have some good progress to report in the next week or so. in the meantime, i have been getting my suspension pieces together. got some bigger swaybars (from a 505t) and shorter, stiffer springs from bryan cohn: need to get them cleaned up & painted. i had gotten new bushings & links for my old swaybars, but needed to get new (different) links for the new bars. still working on the bushings: also got a pair of new oe front strut inserts from western hemispheres. they ship disassembled, oil included: after i get the new front shocks in, i'll refurbish the old shocks so i'll have a set of spares. more to come. andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal505 Posted September 12, 2011 Report Share Posted September 12, 2011 Very good. You should paint them red, blue, or some other loud cliche color. Really. I regret not painting my Eibachs a cool color before putting them on the bimmer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted September 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2011 you read my mind, rob...i was thinking of silver for the sway bars and red for the springs... andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal505 Posted September 12, 2011 Report Share Posted September 12, 2011 Hell yeah! You've gotta envision it as if you were building it up in the eighties. Although filled with irony, I never lived then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryancohnracing Posted September 12, 2011 Report Share Posted September 12, 2011 You might want to consider heavier weight oil than what came with the new inserts. Any motorcycle shop will sell shock oil in a variety of weights. I think stock is pretty lite, 10w or something like that. We tried various weights and settled on 40w as I recall. This is going back 20 plus years so I don't swear to that...and 40w would be a bit much for street use I think. Something to think about anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted September 12, 2011 Report Share Posted September 12, 2011 I believe it was 20W that was used for racing but they'd blow out the seals quicker. (I believe that info was from you Bryan!) 5 - 10W is what they thought stock weight was, and 15W is supposed to be a decent upgrade. Modern suspensions use very lightweight oil and adjust damping mechanically. Since we don't have the luxury of a physical change of the damping rate we fudge it with a thicker viscosity. My plan is to use AMSOIL or Ohlins shock oil in a 15W or equivalent rating and see how that goes. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted September 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2011 bryan & rabin -- oil that came with the inserts is ezl 1025...not sure what that is in API viscosity, apparently my google-fu is weak this morning... rob -- 80s had some great things about them (505s!), but lots of things sucked about them, as well... andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted September 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 euro headlights installed: a few notes: 1) took about 30 minutes; 10 minutes to install the headlights, and 20 minutes to look for the spring that popped off when i did the driver's side 2) headlights need to be reconditioned, driver's side lens needs cleaning (seller told me about this beforehand, factored into the very good price) 3) as peugotsteve noted in his thread, the air intake tube for the xn6 is in the way, it is jammed into the area where the bulb plug attaches. i have been thinking about re-locating the battery to the trunk, which would make the battery space available for something like this to replace the oil bath air filter. what do you guys think? andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal505 Posted September 23, 2011 Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 The euro lights look so nice when on our cars. When mine's all done..or at least close to being done this winter break, I'm gonna install mine as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted September 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 rob, did you ever get the extra parts to install your euro lights on your car? andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal505 Posted September 23, 2011 Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 No, I did not. I never actually got around to making a list of EVERYTHING necessary..my old Peugeot mech back at home offered to install them with parts for $100...which is a bit meh..considering they're all little 25 yr old metal bits..and I like working with my hands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted September 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2011 just got a new passengers' side rear vent window glass -- the original in my car was replaced at some point with a green-tinted piece (the rest of the car's glass is bronze-tinted). the new piece has the proper bronze tint; got it from a dismantler for $20. now i just have to put it in. andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryancohnracing Posted September 30, 2011 Report Share Posted September 30, 2011 Oh, what a joy that is going to be. You get to disassemble the entire rear door. Might as well grease the window slides while you are there! Car is looking great. Bryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted October 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2011 Oh, what a joy that is going to be. You get to disassemble the entire rear door. crap. really? andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal505 Posted October 2, 2011 Report Share Posted October 2, 2011 YIKES! lol. Dissasembling the inner door assembly is a complete PITA. Damn near cut my fingers open a few times trying to tackle a door pull..which is broken again. Andre, is it possible to get one's windows tinted bronze like this? I really like it - totally 80s.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted October 2, 2011 Report Share Posted October 2, 2011 It's not too bad... Once you get the door card off, lower the window the the very bottom, then undo the track that holds the little window in. (8mm bolt at the top, 10mm at the bottom.) Once that window track is loose, it can be pivoted over and the little window comes out. No need to remove the main glass at all. Took me about an hour to change mine out. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted October 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 that doesn't sound too bad at all, rabin. will try to tackle it this week. rob -- doesn't your car already have bronze-tinted windows? my understanding was that up through 87, the 505s had bronze-tinted windows, after that they had green-tinted windows (88 on). i just checked my parts book and it only lists the 86s & 87s as having bronze tinted glass, it doesn't list anything before that...so maybe your car has clear glass (i.e., no tint). but to answer your question, window tint film is available in lots of different shades, from greens to grays to bronze. it's just a matter of finding a vendor or tint shop that has the shade you want. i don't think bronze is as popular now as it was in the 80s, but i'm sure it's still available. i've always had my windows tinted professionally, b/c they do a better job (proper tools, experience) and they also have better-grade tint film than one can buy retail. even the good stuff you can buy retail (which isn't cheap) doesn't hold up for as long as the stuff the pros use, so when you add in the cost of re-doing it after a shorter duration, the $250-$300 the pros charge is a pretty good deal. i had my jetta professionally tinted almost 10 years ago and it still looks good. andré ps -- rob, what is broken on your door pull -- is it the spring? inner or outer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest z103pegaso Posted October 4, 2011 Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 All the 505s I've had(83-85) have had a 'bronze' tint to them, so I assume it was on all the early cars. It's not a dark tint like a film, but it's noticeable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted October 4, 2011 Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 '85 Turbo's and STI's definitely had bronze tint as well. It's kind of funny actually because the 504's green tint early on (my 76' is green tint), then in '78 or so they went to bronze tint which I believe carried through to the early 505's up until 88' when they went back to green tint. I actually parted out a later 504 and grabbed all the bronze tint windows so I could "upgrade" my 504 to bronze tint, and now I'll likely keep it green... lol Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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