N9TE

Ikenna, Rabin is giving you sage advice. Did you ever get a ZN3J factory book? If not, it's pretty important that you do.

That Howe looks quite nice. Any fitment issues?

Bryan Cohen has two: http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1898 Yep, custom aluminum is probably not a bad way to go. Cost? I've never had it done, but I want to say ~ $500.

Something about the first pics of a tired old 505 that just had the good fortune to fall into the hands of a good Peugeot owner. It'll take a while, but watching it turn into the car it once was will be nice!

Hey guys, Has anybody done this? I need to get at the insides of my fusebox on my 86. There are two phillips screws that seem to attach the top, but remove them didn't do much. Before I break something, is there any way to remove this? Here is the picture... Thanks!

I would opt for an engine swap - out of Peugeot entirely. I'd opt for a modern turbo unit like the SR20DET Nissan. I was thinking of one of Toyota's beautiful inline 6s, but there's not enough room without major surgery - I measured. No other 4 offers the same bang for the buck. Toyota stuff is too pricey. Along with the Porsche options. Few North-South 4 banger world class engines exist anymore. Lots of good sidewinder engines... 3S Yota, that EcoTech they stick in the Cobalt, not to mention Hondas. But mating up a East-West engine would add lots of complexity (read $$$) to the already expensive option. Just get a N9TE car and be done with it. Wait for one to come up and pay asking price. It'll be the cheapest go-fast 505 you can get.

Ya, 405s are nice. If I didn't have 2 turbos, I'd get one. In fact I've passed on a few deal Mi16s in the last year. Good thing I'm not loaded like Jay Leno or you guys would have no French cars to buy! Have fun with the car.

Easiest thing to do is replace the cables. Probably needs it. About $70 for both of them. Give Rob Courter a call. Adjust by the book. Cold weather exacerbates the problem. Failing that, you're into the caliper.

So have seen/heard of fires being contained with a amateur system (2.5lb manual bottle)? I see many stories of cars going up in flames and guys who've bought this and that. But few of people who bought this or that and had it do X to whatever fire event. Realistically, I understand that most daily drivers are not going to have an on-board system so that leaves you with size and medium. Do you use Halon or Halatron-1? Thanks, your insights are greatly appreciated. The racing guys see the most brutal accidents and know what kills and doesn't kill.

Rabin, I didn't see chapters F & G (Fuel System and Ignition System) in the downloadable workshop manual on peugeo505.info. And I don't have a ZNJ3 book. Just N9T books. He has to get a baseline fuel trim set. That'll include cheking the pressure (I still think the stock ZNJ3 FRP will be overwhelmed by the K-Jet high pressure pump), idle set, vacuum leak check. That plugged IAC means the car was always kludged together and needs to be set right. Without chapters F & G, I can't help with the ZNJ3.

Glad somebody chimed in. I've been researching. Everybody is pushing Halatron-1, pratteling on about it's SNAP compliance, "the best alternative" medium (read: 1/2 as effective as Halon), etc. The standard "large" on board extinguisher with Halatron has a UL B rating of 2.5 where Halon is 5(!) I'm all for saving the planet blah-blah-blah, but not at the cost of seeing my ride go up in flames. So how effective is a 2.5lb extinguisher? Has to be better than the 1.4lb ones. Of course, the 5lb one would be better, but a little nuts for on board stuff, right? I was reading that you only get like 12 seconds of go-time before a 2.5lb extinguisher is dead? Is that right? Is that enough? Yup, the racing guys like yourself have to know these things. Like I said, glad you chimed in!

I know I must know this, but I seem to have forgotten. Rabin, how do you determine when an engine goes into closed loop? The last car I worked on where that was an issue was a real beater and it was sold before the owner brought it up to operational condition. So I don't remember how that was determined. O2 voltage swing? Ikenna, what's your ignition computer? You showed the fuel computer. Also, what's your methodology for testing for false air leaks?

What do you guys have going for fire protection on your 505s? Right now, I don't have any fire extinguishers in my cars. That will have to change as soon as possible. I've been lucky and have not had any car fires - so far. You?

With all this talk of Ikenna's issues it reminded me of my last fix on my blue car (86 turbo). The blower motor wasn't working.... Easy. Every post on Peugeot-L and here says the motor or the transistor. However, a week ago when I was driving it suddenly went on and stayed on for about 3 minutes before retiring again. I pulled all the ratty insulation and pulled the connector. Applied +12V directly to motor. Spun up. OK. Now I need to follow the book. On page 20 of the HVAC book (http://peugeot505.info/files/manuals/505_my86_hv.pdf) it says on like step 2 on blower motor diagnostic to check #10 fuse. A quick look through the fuse circuits revealed the blower motor had #10 all by itself. More suspicious. Normally fuse diagnosis can be done without even looking at them based on shared protected circuits. This time was different. The fuse was burnt up from a marginal contact. Cleaned up the fuse, holder and it works perfectly. Follow the book kids! My next toy? Picoscope... http://www.autoservicetech.com/scopediagnostics.html http://www.autoservicetech.com/runningcompression.html

Four bolts and spacers for the PS unit. Two in the front of the unit and two on the back. You usually have to remove the battery to get access to the rear ones. If one is still torqued it ain't going anywhere. The spacer/bolt arrangement is the most FUBAR thing I've seen on a Peugeot. I recently re-did my PS unit and had the same problem. I think... (from memory) front, closest to the fan = longest spacer rear near block = smallest front near fender = 2nd longest rear near fender = 3rd longest It still looks not right on my car. Looks better on my 87 as that's what I went off of. No idea on air hiss.

Hmmm... Like Rabin said, it's either the fuel return line pinched/plugged or your FPR is overwhelmed by the volume that the CIS/K-Jet fuel pump puts out. That would explain the fuel in the gas along with the black smoke. I'm sure you're keen to fix that as soon as possible as if left untreated you can cook your catalytic converter. Watch out on the multi-meter. Don't get swindled. An inexpensive one (from China) should cost no more than $15. It won't do everything. As you're aware, your best friends in diagnosis under your situation are knowledge and cleanliness. Oh yeah, you have a Bosch LH-Jetronic system on the ZN3J. Watch out when cleaning a hot-wire AFM!! It's easy to destroy them with too much zeal. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jetronic

The factory book does have test procedures for the IAC - at least on the N9T manual. Ikenna, you'll have to get a V6 book. You have to determine if you have the right ECUs (there is an ignition and fuel injection computer). Once you have the factory service manual, you will be able to go through each component of the Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection system, testing it and properly dialing it in. Right now, you are suffering from a lack of information. You need to know exactly what components you have. You can't take anything at face value and will have to check each component. There is a guide for the N9T engine that tells what each part number is for each factory installed item (air flow meter, IAC, computers, relays, fuel pump, etc.) I don't think the V6 cars had this book. You will need to find someone, somewhere with the same V6 configuration so you can get part numbers off their car and match them up with yours. If someone installed a wrong AFM or your running with the 4 cylinder fuel pump, you'll never be able to tune it to factory specification. Until you do this, you're really at a disadvantage. Like trying to run a race with one shoe. From the peugeot505.info site here: http://www.peugeot505.info/index.php?id=do...uals&lang=1 You'll need the Technical Training - System Diagnosis - NSD 15-5 (U.S. models): http://www.peugeot505.info/files/manuals/tt-sd-nsd_15-5.pdf and the ZN3J workshop manual: http://www.peugeot505.info/files/manuals/5...3512_gb_01d.pdf Personally, I'd start with the fuel pump. The pumps are different for the V6 and XN6 engines. Do you know if your have the pump your new engine requires?

Did you take any pictures? Racks are not a trivial job.

I have not, but I hear that it is. Additionally the blower motor would be exposed. Best not to.

You'll have to use a generic floor mat rather than the real deal. The original ones accommodated the dead pedal. I got some generics and have been happy enough. About the firewall insulation. The 86 and earlier cars came with this very inferior rubber and yes, they all get trashed. I've never seen one that wasn't. On the other hand, you can get one off a 87+ car. Peugeot reformulated the rubber on those. They last for decades without going to pieces. I just got one from Brian Holm. Cost $100 and the closed cell insulation was roached, but I have a good candidate to restore. I'm sourcing some closed cell foam along with the aluminum insert on the outer side. Should be pretty nice. I will document it fully.

Bryan, Did you strip it of parts (window motors, switches, trim, lamps, mirrors, switches, jack, etc.)? I need a good Hirschmann antenna.

Cool. This has surely been a saga for you. If it all comes together, you'll have quite a nice and unique car. As long as there's oil in the diff, you should be OK. Do you have a proper set of books (documentation) for the car? If not, visit www.peugeot505.info. Lots of good downloadable factory publications. You'll probably want to do a full fluid change as unless you know the brand and grade of oil, you can assume that corners might have been cut. Good luck!

Nice! Just as you bit the bullet on the interior (and it's the nicest pre 86 interior I've seen), this should turn out well. Looking forward to a decent number of pictures when it's done.

Whoa kida... 26 PSI?! On pump gas? 11 Wish I were selling him parts. Good write-up none-the-less! I've got a MIG and am gonna take a week of vacation soon (use it or lose it situation). I promised myself to teach myself to weld then. When is this project gonna happen?

Absolutely cool! Can't wait to use one of these someday. However, it will only account for maybe 1/4 of the wires front of the firewall as most are there courtesy of Peugeot's Bosch L-Jet. This won't do anything for that. But for everything else. I like it.