Peugeot Steve

I have a 1985 Peugeot 505 STi with the 2.0L XN6 engine and automatic transmission (90,000 miles). I've been using it as an almost daily driver (40miles each way to work). Love it. All of a sudden, it was stalling each time I came off the accelerator. The RPM would uncharacteristically drop to approx 500 RPM. I suspected bad gas? I researched this issue on this site. Boy, I suck at finding what I want. I was barely keeping it alive by feathering the gas;however, any quick let off the gas and the engine would roughly fall and surge and stall. I changed the fuel filter (a lot of black liquid inside), but that didn't help. I thought it would have. I used some water absorbing dry gas, but that didn't work. I switched tactics and went towards ignition. I replaced spark plugs and wires (which I should have done when I bought it, but never got around to it). Neither of these helped. I sprayed and wiped down the throttle body with cleaner, but that didn't help. I disconnected the O2 sensor while idling, but no change. After researching rough idling on the internet. I decided to try SEAFOAM. Look at this stuff on Youtube. My idle was constantly surging +/- 50 to 100RPM. The engine has always seemed rough. I poured 1/3 in the gas, 1/3 in the oil, and 1/3 in the air through the brake vac hose. I waited 5min, then restarted. Thank goodness I did this at night. The car smoked and puffed for 20min straight like a train--far, far worse than the video I watched. My neighbors would have thought my car was on fire. I smoked out the entire street. It was terrible. Afterwards, the car idled as smooth as silk. It feels like a new car! I problably sound like an info-mercial. The before-and-after would knock your socks off. I drove around for about 45min. It was some of the most enjoyable driving I've had in the car. I'm a believer in this product. Smooth strong rev upwards...smooth lowering downwards. Like a new car. WOW, WOW, WOW! I did find a bad solenoid after discussing tactics with Brian Holm today. The bank of vac/electric soleniods along the right fender. The first one (the one closest to the front of the car in the row of three of them)is the vacuum advance? With the top vac line removed, or the solenoid de-powered (disconnecting one of the wires), the car runs even better. If someone out there has a car like mine, please disconnect/re-connect this solenoid and let me know the results. Do I need to get another, or is this the way this is supposed to work? Peugeot Steve

I would be all for a new site. I have recently purchased my car and I'm still excited of the ideas I have rolling around in my head. I don't want the thrill to turn into frustration. I have a hard time finding information on the old threads. It excludes short words and when you find the topic you need, you need to wade through copies of posts and unrelated anecdotes. If you build a site, please make it a technical resource first with a forum on the side. There is so much good info and pictures available, but I feel handicapped at finding and using it. Steve

Wow, great detail on the response... especially with the drawing. I'll leave the relay box alone. I'm going to get a section of hose to approximate the length I would have had remaining (if I had cut it). I put in Sylvania SilverStar 60/55W. I would have gone with the Ultra version from the same company, but the local cops have pulled people over for those until they showed the packaging (proving they're legal). I don't want to be hassled. These are readily available at my local PepBoys parts store. I considered a comparable Hella and some brand called Pilot (in the tuner section). I chose based on price and reputation. I like the difference. Much...much better. The front of my car looks great. Steve

I finally got around to installing my eurolights. Wow, what a difference. I decided to list all of the info on the lights, so someone doing a search can benefit. Valeo 060307 G042M made in Argentina 03102037 Valeo 060308 G043M made in Argentina 03112037 They have CIBIE printed on them. I'm sure the business I bought these from made a huge profit. I didn't appreciate that, so best of luck for others sourcing these parts. Any parts company that has a contract with Valeo should be able to get these lights with these part numbers. While doing the left light I came across a large plastic box with a relay in it (see picture). What is this for? I had to take it off of the mounting bracket, so the new light fixture would fit. It is now just sitting in the space previously occupied by the rubber air intake nozzle. I took off the rubber hose air intake nozzle. It has 26years of oil/grime on it. I will have to cut it, since the relay box in now in the way. Looks like 6in would do the job. Before I cut this nozzle, I need to know if it is expensive/rare.? Steve

I checked two 10mm head allen bolts that I found where the torque tube connects to the diffential housing. They are tight. I didnt check the torque tube the transmission...yet. I'm leaning toward the shocks still. Since I'm not up to a wild goose chase for shocks...and since I avoid shipping from overseas (see some of my previous posts), I need a recommendation of KYB or Gabriel. Steve

So you think the 'bounce' is from bad shocks?

I have a 1985 Peugeot 505 STi. When I shift out of Park -or- into Park the car sort of bounces. It feels more toward the rear of the car. It isn't a dangerous sort of movement, nor any metallic clinking sounds. Makes the car feel as old as its age. I want to correct this. Has anyone else experienced this? I think I need to replace the rear shocks. I've done the push-down-on-the-bumper shock test and both the left and the right rebound at the same rate. They feel spongy, but not necessarily bad (same rebound as my son's 1985 BMW 5 series). I've done a search on the internet for replacements. KYB and Gabriel shocks pop up on all sites. I did a search on this forum and some truck or Aliquant (spelling?) shocks appear. What is the end result of the experienced Peugeot guys out there? My goal is smooth highway driving and some spirited driving on paved winding country roads. Is there a transmission mount that I should look at for the 'bounce'? Is the differential an issue? Steve

Found some info on the 'tyre' spelling. Looks like I'll search to purchase 205/60R15. Any worries with the strut lower cup to tire clearance with this size? Steve

What size tires are supposed to go on the 15in peugeot rims? I bought some from PeugeotHolm to replace the metric wheels that are on the car. I read the threads using the search and found a number of sizes that different people have tried, but I don't want to deviate from the intended size. Steve

Over the years I have owned a number of Fiats. I have always had a number of parts suppliers to choose from, but occassionally I found myself resourcing my own parts. I went radiator shopping for a 1980 Fiat Spider 2000 a few years back and the local radiator shop had an entire catalog where dozens of choices for material, dimensions (length, width, and height by the mm), fitment of temp sensor, fitment of radiator cap, and placement of the tanks (whether top/bottom or sides). Anyone try this approach? If memory serves, I had half a dozen choices for the Spider. I can't see the radiator industry having zero for us. Mounting brackets can't be all that hard. My shop offered to fab them from stock aluminum bits they had in a bin. Peugeot Steve

I got the front disc separated from the hub. I had to use wood blocks and a mini-sledge! All of my pieces: replacement strut and all associated pieces have been sanded, primed, and epoxy painted. When I get the last piece in the mail (the lower ball joint...I ordered a week ago!), I'll be assembling. I had to create a drain hole to keep the strut lower cup from rusting out like the original. I've had my project for a few months, but due to my hectic work schedule I haven't touched it much. Add on top the frigid winter temps, I'm far behind in the timeline I've set for myself. I can't wait to get rolling. Peugeot Steve

Thanks for the info on the hub to disc issue. I'll use a bigger hammer! I decided to stick with solids and pass on the vented. The job started out on replacing the passenger strut due to lower cup severe corrosion and failure that had it leaning on the tire. Once I got in there, I decided to restore and freshen up some stuff. For the heck of it, I priced the rubber rebound piece that sits inside of the coil spring on the shaft of the strut from one of the 'Peugeot' vendors and nearly fell out of my chair....$90!!....I'll stick with the old original. I must say that I did get the ball joint from them for 50% of the price my local parts store wanted. Win some...lose some. Peugeot Steve

I have new front discs for my 1985 Peugeot 505 STi. I took the old disc off of the car. I have never seen a set-up before that required the disassembly of the wheel bearing to get the disc off (working per my Haynes manual). I worked the disc free from my rusted strut (I'm replacing it too). I turned around the disc with the other half of the bearing assembly and muscled off the 4 allen head bolts on the disc. How do you get the the center hub separated from the disc? I gave it a few wacks and it isn't budging. Are these two pieces pressed together? My old pieces as covered with brake dust and grime, so I can't truely see if their is a seam in the metal. It is making me question whether I have the correct replacement part. Should I just hit it harder to separate the pieces? Pics attached. Please give advice on how to separate the pieces- or- maybe I have the wrong replacement part? Peugeot Steve

Wow....what a shock on those shipping prices! I'll pass, but I might get desperate later. I'm just lazily looking for now, since it's the deep of winter here (below freezing everyday and difficult to work in the garage). My searching will pick-up in the spring. I appreciate the effort in the shopping for parts. Had not the shipping prices been way outta line, I would be your first customer. Great pictures too. Steve

When you find, I'd be interested in seeing pictures. Steve No kidding on those prices. What a shock! Steve