1987 505 Turbo Revival

[Mike T]

I'd recommend taking the wiper axles apart and re-lubing them. They look as though they're dry. Might be a hell of a job with the dash in place though.

[MGR550]

First step is just to tack it up with the mig if I can manage it. Metal seems pretty thick around the holes so I think it'll work well. Probably helps to not use a flapper disk to clear the rust as it's a bit overly aggressive and thins the metal too much. I used a grinder disk which is a bit like a rigid sponge type material which did the trick, though did leave much of the black iron oxide still there. 

I had to strip and re-line the gas tank on my old suzuki last year so I still have some of the acid/passivator (zinc phosphate?) left over so I'll test that on a few spots to see how it reacts. Might just do a normal primer, colour, clear coat after that if it works well. There's a shop here I've used in the past that will do good colour matching and put it in a spray can so it should be pretty easy then. 

Once its all sealed up, junkyard windshield goes in, then pull all the little bits of tree sap off the paint and get it looking good. After that just a few final touches like a better muffler/de-cat and it'll be pretty much complete as far as I'm concerned. 

For wiper mechanism, it seems like the whole motor and linkage assembly will unbolt from the outside under the windshield tray. Ill probably pull some bits off to sandblast, paint and grease if its not too much of a pain to get out. 

[Jayden M]

I replaced the wiper mechanism not to long ago, it was a pretty easy job. All can be done from the engine bay.

[MGR550]

Update for this one too. New* windshield is in and the guy was able to salvage enough of the surround trim between the two cars to preserve the look of the original for the most part. Windshield rust repair needed a bit more than I had hoped, but nothing too bad and it looks pretty good now with the worst of my body work covered by the glass trim. Plan is to vinyl wrap the hood, roof, trunk, and A-pillars down to the hood to cover up all the scratched paint.

I also cut the muffler off and I quite like the sound, turbo whistle is much more pronounced. May cut the catalytic off too and put a resonator in its place. Also got some euro headlights which look amazing and are much brighter. Had to swap the chrome bezels between the lights to keep my original ones as the euro ones didn't quite line up with the body lines right.

Still have the cracked head coolant leak, but the more I live with it, the less worried I am about it, I top off the coolant bottle maybe once a month. 

Also recently rolled over 111 111 miles woo!

[MGR550]

This car continues to be a reliable and fun daily driver. Trying to get my winter car finished up asap so I don't have to keep dragging the 505 through the salt, should be done next week I hope. 

In the meantime though, neither of the heated seats seem to be working, is this a common fault or is there a relay to check?

Also I should get around to fixing my oil level/temp gauge/sender; hasn't worked since I got the car over a year ago now.

Thanks,

Matt

[Bean]

I’d check continuity/resistance of the pads, and ensure they’re getting power from the switch.  I’ve not had seats that didn’t work, but if they did go I’d likely just replace the pads with aftermarket ones…. Maybe do the seat backs too!

Rabin

[MGR550]

Back on this car again now that the weather is nice. Fired right up after the winter and ran great as usual. The cracked head coolant leak is a little more smokey than I remember but it still stops smoking when its warmed up and I don't notice bubbles in the coolant either so its still small enough. I'm going to commit to taking the head off to get it fixed this coming fall/winter, so my question is: what parts do I need/where can I get them and what if any upgrades should I do while I'm there? Head gasket is the obvious one that I don't know where to find or the specifics of what one I need yet. ARP head studs? valve guides & seats? Timing chain/guides/tensioner?

Also on my first drive of the season I noticed 3 of the brake calipers seem to be seized and the other one drags a lot! Had the one rotor/hub well over 100°C after a 10km drive. Got some caliper seal rebuild kits and wheel bearings coming shortly so I'll pull them all apart and freshen them up.

[Jayden M]

Rob Courtier who is in the facebook group has lots of parts such as the head gasket you will need. He can also be reached at [email protected]

[MGR550]

Ah perfect, thanks! I also found a few other useful links for others that may stumble onto this thread and are looking for 505 engine parts suppliers:

https://www.mespiecesauto.com/categorie-produit/peugeot-505-turbo-injection/?swoof=1

https://www.canam-peugeot.com/forum/index.php?/topic/3487-definitive-n9t-head-stud-guide/

http://www.politecnic.com/505mecanique.htm

https://www.boutique-laventure-association.com/en/20-505

 

Also need to finish up the brakes before I can properly bring the car out for the summer. Bleeding the front right caliper is killing me with that long high line lol, just cant seem to get the air out.. reverse bleed with the car sideways on a hill maybe?

[SRDT]

A few years back not everyone was happy with the way the new owner of Politecnic was doing business. I don't know how things stand today.

[MGR550]

Good to know, thanks! 

Also started having a problem with this one... after sitting for a few weeks while I was away, now it bucks and sputters when I try and drive it. It'll start and idle just fine while warming up, I put it in gear and start to drive, maybe 50m down the road it'll buck and stall and sputter for a few seconds then fully quit. When I try and restart it, it wont even fire once. 

I thought it was low fuel because the tank was near empty, so added more; same thing. Noticed one of the electrical leads to the external pump was loose so tightened it; same thing. The knock warning light flashes when it does the sputtering too, but its same fuel as usual and I haven't messed with the timing. If I leave it for a minute then try again itll again start and idle fine, but driving makes it unhappy.

Maybe I try hotwiring the pump to make sure its not a fuel delivery issue? Would low fuel pressure cause the knock light to flash? I guess if its lean knocking, but its very low throttle when I'm just pulling out of the neighborhood and the engine would still be pretty cool. I'll have to keep an eye on my afr gauge next time I try it out. 

[Bean]

The LED is likely flashing a code - count the flashes to see if there’s a repeating pattern.

Id also check timing and verify the TPS voltages are still in spec.

Might also want to check for vacuum leaks, or leaks bypassing the VAF.

Rabin

[wadehilts]

Wow this was a very helpful thread for me! I had the exact same problem with error code 4. I just revived a car that had been sitting and the alternator VR is bad, producing over voltage. I likely have a damaged ECU as a result. Very grateful you did all the heavy lifting for me on this. I'll swap in a good alternator and then a spare ECU and see what happens!