Jump to content

wadehilts

Members
  • Content Count

    28
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About wadehilts

  • Rank
    Peugeot Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Portland, OR

Contact Methods

Recent Profile Visitors

2,774 profile views
  1. Hi everyone, I have an update! Stewart, I hope you're listening, I need a seasoned ZDJL expert on deck! I've successfully built and installed the missing tooth wheel crankshaft wheel. The 505 is running and I am controlling both fuel AND spark! I owe much of my design to an Australian friend of mine, Rob Swan, he built a similar system last year and is using it on his 505 ZDJL 851.y (the 851.y is the high compression Series 1 GTI ZDJL, my engine is the US spec 851.x with lower compression). Anyways, I noticed his timing map looks much like the one Stewart posted earlier on
  2. Hello Goce, Yes, I am aware that 3.08 will be way too high, but I have a free 3.08 at my disposal so I wanted to pop it in and try it out as an experiment. I will probably end up attempting to buy a higher ratio diff from a local mechanic who has Peugeot parts. Looking at another post on this website, here are the relevant diffs: J - 9X37 = 4.111 - 86-89 Turbo Wagon Auto, XN6 Sedan, 87-? Euro ZDJL Sedan K - 9X35 = 3.889 - V6-Auto Sedan, 89 ZN3J and Turbo Auto Sedan L - 9X34 = 3.778 M - 10X37 = 3.700 - V6-Manual Sedan, 89 ZN3J 5-sp Sedan N - 12X43 = 3.583 P -
  3. Hey Rabin, Glad it's not a difficult job as I may swap in a couple! It's my understanding that the ZDJL is the torquier of the two, but that comes with a price, as it is certainly slower to wind up than the XN-series engines. However it seems to be pretty tough and capable of good economy. I seem to have exaggerated the difference between the ZDJL and XN6 torque. According to Wikipedia the XN6 engine makes 116 ft-lbs @ 3500 rpm, while the ZDJL makes 131 ft-lbs at 3500 rpm (these are the stats for the American versions of the engines). I think Peugeot dropped the ball when they a
  4. Hi guys, Fuel economy update as promised: I have noticed a significant highway mpg improvement. I get about 26 mpg on the highway with MSII controlling the fuel settings. I haven't moved to spark control yet. According to a Peugeot mechanic I know, this engine didn't get much better than 22 mpg in US model 505s typically. So that's a marked improvement. Around town, I think I have some more work to do in terms of my fuel map tuning and accel enrichment. I get about 18 mpg, which is roughly the same as I used to. I have a 4.11 differential in my 505, and my friend has a spar
  5. Hi Rabin, I haven't considered that idea. I'd imagine that would work pretty well, assuming the teeth are thick enough for the hall sensor. I guess it's rather an unknown, so I have been leaning towards buying a trigger wheel from DIYAutotune. Also, I have the luxury of my friend Rob being a voluntary guinea pig with the setup shown above in the pictures. He is also a little wary of the setup as it gets pretty busy around all the belts and moving parts. However, he is taking the process very slowly. He's been driving with the trigger wheel and sensor mounted for a few weeks, periodi
  6. Update! I fixed the problem. My noise filtering in Megasquirt has been affecting my idle when the RPMs drop. Should have realized that earlier, but the noise filter menu is a little confusing. Now I have a ROCK solid idle, augmented by the kick-ass PWM closed loop idle control. I can easily hold an idle at 500 rpm (rough, but stable) when the power steering yanks the a load on the engine. The closed loop PID control does the rest. I have now defeated the Bosch Jetronic in all respects. Time to paint the 404 so I can have a glorious DD while the 505 gets torn apart for
  7. Stewart, I am having an issue where my idle collapses, even with my PID control of the PWM valve fighting it. The idle collapses quickly once the rpms drop to ~650. This can be achieved by putting a load on the engine (power steering) at idle. What I've noticed in my log files is that the rpms drop from 650 to 65 rpms and float around there for a while. Since I'm getting my ignition trigger from the dizzy reluctor, I'm wondering if my dizzy pickup is failing to read a signal at low rpms. Perhaps my Voltage drop from the alternator is affecting it. I was just wondering if you have observe
  8. Thanks Stewart, I made a rather large discovery yesterday. I am a fool. I have been driving my car with the timing retarded by 10 degrees. AKA I was idling at TDC not 10 degrees BTDC. A previous owner had rebuilt the engine and never set the timing right. I checked it briefly and wasn't thinking. The crank pulley mark lined up with the TDC tick mark, not 10 degrees BTDC. What a fool I was! The car runs WAY better now. I guess the problem was that I have never driven a 505 with a ZDJL in it, so I never knew what to expect out of the vehicle to begin with. The car has much more respons
  9. Hi Stewart, You are probably right about the air leak. Last weekend, I shit-canned the Bosch Aux Air Valve and replaced that mess of (likely leaking) hoses with a single 2 wire Pulse Width Modulation valve (Bosch 0 280 140 516). The Megasquirt can directly control this actuator, so now I have the option to configure a open-loop warmup and also closed-loop idle control. This will allow me to account for various environmental changes too! So far it is working ok, but I just installed it last night, so I need to tweak it more on the software side of things. I think one issue that i
  10. Hi Rabin, Nothing too exciting yet that I have measured. I've been spending a lot of time tuning the engine's fuel map. I have definitely noticed a SIGNIFICANT increase in responsiveness and power. The car runs much better when up to operating speed. I have tuned my MAT correction to avoid the heatsoak issues I got when trying a hot start or sitting in traffic too long. Currently, I am considering adding a Idle Air Control stepper motor, as I am struggling with getting the car to run reasonably when cold. The Bosch Aux Air Valve doesn't provide enough air even at full open adjus
  11. Thanks Stewart, I'm assuming you're the gentlemen on AussieFrogs called "Stew". You've provided a lot of insight and knowledge on the ZDJL. Don't you have one of those engines in a 404? that must really pull. My XC6 in my 404 has plenty of grab at just 80 HP. Every day I've been dialing in the fine tuning parameters to get a more stable idle. I must admit, I was quite shocked that my Megasquirt system fired up after only 30 minutes of fiddling around. An injector o-ring wasn't seated right, so I got a nice little petrol-shower on my first startup, but otherwise I had wiring everythin
  12. Hi Stewart, Thanks for the knowledge yet again! Are you experienced with TunerStudio? I have been wading through it this weekend and fine tuning a few parameters such as injector dead time. Basically, to start off my tuning, I received a tune file from the aforementioned Rob gentleman. He came to this tuning on his Aussie spec 505, although I'm not sure exactly how he developed it. The way I understand tuning is that you set up an AFR table first. Attached is the AFR table I imported from Rob's tune and what I have been using on my car. My idle is set at 13.8 at 45 kpa and 800 rpm. T
  13. Hey Stewart, I hope you got your vittles! The ECU install has begun! Last weekend was very busy. I have successfully installed a fuel-only control system in the 505. I am in the process of learning how to tune, with the assistance of an Australian gentlemen by the name of Rob, who has done a similar thing to his 505. We are working on the missing tooth crank wheel, but for now I'm focused on the tuning side of things and getting used to the software. I replaced the AFM with metal tubing and modified a TPS to fit. All my sensors, including wideband O2 and up and running well. I'm getting m
  14. Thanks guys for the input. Stewart, I am beginning to understand what you meant. Perhaps I will have an easier time tuning if I don't add vacuum regulation right off the bat. I began my prep fabrication this weekend, I had a bung welded to my exhaust for the wideband and I've taken off my plenum chamber and gooped up a plentiful blob of JB weld to hold on the IAT sensor bung (hopefully the stuff will hold). Managed to lose one of plenum-manifold o-rings, made for a fun 20 minute hunt around the engine bay, only to find it had rolled 20 feet across my driveway! I plan to fabricate som
  15. According to the megasquirt info page (from the link I posted above), they are suggesting that you use a fuel pressure regulator that has some sort of manifold vacuum reference. I know Megasquirt is reading the MAP constantly, so perhaps the tuning software can account for this? Wade
×
×
  • Create New...