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Joe's '91 405 Mi16 (and '90 SW and '92 Mi16)...


91MR2

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Definitely pull the codes, like Savo said, his instructions and pictures are that same that i found and follow more than a decade ago only thing then that was confusing for me was to identify wich wire on the connector to ground. So i pulled back the rubber grommet on the back of the connector and there are numbers printed on the wires them self i found wire 17, put a paint mark on that side of the connector and have been using it. About the throttle position sensor, the Mi16 doesn't use a standard ohms sensor. It is old school, double switch, it has a micro switch for idle and full throttle switch. i've had the idle switch cause me problems because the throttle cable was too tight and when i close the hood it will be pushed down and keep the switch opened. Its a very loud switch you can hear it in a quiet garage from the drivers seat with the hood opened, simply press the accelerator gently and you can hear the tak. Is you Idle lumpy trying to die or just erratic jumping all over the rav range. I've chased lumpy idle with no codes and was the simplest thing cousin it.

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Little update, everyone, the front struts/springs are put back together however I am awaiting shipment of my steering rack boots, so will have photos once they arrive and all that is done.

Did a little clean up in the garage today and finally built a proper bench, long overdue. Will be attaching my grinding wheel and vice tomorrow.

 

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Another small project, removed my broken foglights. Unfortunately the hardware holding them in was quite rusty, going to have to find a way to re-attach them securely. I was fortunate to find some lightly used oem fogs on eBay UK, ended up get 2 pairs, will post photos of them when they arrive...

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This covid stuff has really slowed shipping, still awaiting my steering rack boots...hopefully soon...in the meantime, attached my bench grinder and vice, and got some shots of the current state of the garage...

 

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Thanks guys. Goce, not sure if my brakes were upgraded or they were a late model run change...

Good news, the new inner/outer tie rods and new rack boots are now done, both sides. Will get pictures soon.

Next jobs are all the fluids, and then clean the tracks on the driver's power seat...

Then back on the road for some testing...

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if you power seat, is not moving it has probably broke the plastic couplers for the part that go from one side to the other, common problem, easy fix. See what you can see, be careful i've found broken penny's in my seat tracks, don't put your fingers when moving them.

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The seat is not broken just moving very slowly. I was telling Savo, there is a little bit of rust in the one track, not much, but we suspect enough to where it could be causing slow movement. Going to clean out all the old grease and re-fit with new and see where we are at. I'd love to just convert it to manual however if anyone has an extra set of tracks...

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Ok guys, new inner/outer tie rods plus new oem steering rack boots, all set (sorry for the lousy quality photos)...

All that is left on the front suspension is to do new sway bar links and bushings (not in bad shape at all, but why not...), as well as lower ball joints (also fine, but they were cheap enough to buy...)

 

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Gr2’s - They’ll do in a pinch, and be better than blown shocks, but this generation of Peugeot suspension is pure magic on rough roads while still being very sporty.

I had a set of inserts for my 505 but I knew I’d never actually install them...  :)

Rabin

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Hi Bean, yeah, these were the right price and new old stock stuff, so I am just adding them to the pile of parts for a later date if needed. Once I'm back on the road I can more properly test the car out since the entire front end will be new, it will give me a good idea of how everything feels at that point. Decided to do the lower ball joints now as well, since we are already into everything else. Sway bar links/bushings can be done later in the season...

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Joe, good job on the steering rod ends, you've got better quality ones with steel caps on top. I've owned many 405's and only once had to replace one sway bar link because of an accident, they simply don't fall apart even if they look all cracked, on the other hand sway bar bushing and lower control arm bushings are parts that make some difference in driving it. I'll rader check them and change them, lower arm bushings make an annoying noise and looseness in the steering wheel uphill accelerating.

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Goce, thanks for the info. A lot of what I'm doing now is "while you're in there" type stuff, and if everything is new, it's kind of like a process of elimination for what can go wrong in the future, which I hope in this case is nothing for many years ahead...plus having an entirely new front end is just nicer than piecing everything together over time...

The only exception is the lower control arm bushings. They are fine, but since they involve lowering the subframe, I'll do them at a later date...

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Joe, i totally understand, just for info, there is no need to lower the front subframe to change the lower a arms or there bushings, 2: 18mm nuts, 2 bolts with nuts and it comes right out, i've done them so many times i've never had to touch the subframe bolts. There is a saying why make it simple when you can make it difficult, this saying does not apply to the 405, they have been engineered and despite having the thinnest sheet metal available they are tough cars, they've survived my driving and more impressive my brother's driving for years??

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19 hours ago, SouvenirCup said:

Quite a garage you’ve got there. I haven’t seen to many 405’s in white, it’s a nice look. Good job going thru and thoroughly fixing everything.

Thank you much...

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5 hours ago, Goce said:

Joe, i totally understand, just for info, there is no need to lower the front subframe to change the lower a arms or there bushings, 2: 18mm nuts, 2 bolts with nuts and it comes right out, i've done them so many times i've never had to touch the subframe bolts. There is a saying why make it simple when you can make it difficult, this saying does not apply to the 405, they have been engineered and despite having the thinnest sheet metal available they are tough cars, they've survived my driving and more impressive my brother's driving for years??

Thanks Goce, seemed like the bushing closest to the rear couldn't be removed with the subframe in place...we'll review again...

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