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My 505 upgrades!


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Alright peeps so it's been a while since my last glx update : ] in this time I had a couple of projects I wanted to do on my 88 GLX and I did #1 I was tired of the sagging in the rear of the car and the bounciness due to blown rear shocks which also compromised my ability to handle a curb going of the canyon at 60 and I hate slowing down I'm sure all u guys love the 505's superb cornering and overall handling. I knew get my hands on stock shocks was probably not gonna happen so I did a little research I came to the conclusion of an air shock so I went with a Gabriel air shock set up for a 97 v6 camaro and it's back! If not better the handling response is there to more sagging and smooth ride quality are back : ] #2 I'm sure u guys r familiar with the poor stock charging systems on the 505 it comes with like a 69 amp alternator well that sux! I got an aftermarket Sony radio and HID lights bad idea with stock alternator...I decided it was time to fix that. I liked the gm two wire alternator set up so I bought a 110 amp gm 2 wire alt. for $50 bucks at our shops price I was doing some measurements and it was actually a pretty simple install besides the custom brackets and spacers that I had made it made a hell of an improvement the cara lights are bright as hell interior cluster lights can actually be seen along with panel lights the car has a much quicker response to the pedal and it idles now another thing that really shocked me was the big improvement in my gas mileage wow! The sound is amazing also.#3 the stock catalytic cOnverter is a freakin monster some people don't believe me but my peugeot has almost about 500,000 miles on it and has been passing smog like nothing with the stock cat,but it is very restrictive so I decided to make a use of the full diameter tubing all around I found my self a burnt up cat from my s10 pick up cut the old one out hollowed it and welded it in with two flanges on each end and put in a new o2 sensor thread whole before the cat I call it my dummy cat the car sounds beautiful also improved overall power and sound and keeps the smart ass cops of my ass with their visual cat inspection lol.. A whole back I had tuned my car to run just a tad bit rich to get it ready for a port job and larger throttle body other projects I still haven't gotten two anyways due to that tune it partially plugged my cat of course but it will still pass smog but runs like crap with it.ever since I installed the dummy cat it's been a real sleeper my car picks up quick I constantly get people talking crap but can't keep up the only car I have trouble keeping up with is my friends 09 Subaru Sti because of all the mods he has done my car has eaten all the si Hondas even the. Newer ones I've smoked a 350z on the freeway and was going neck to neck with a 90 5.0 mustang on the freeway last week. I love my 505 but I think it's time to make it my weekend car now I rebuilt the rear diff about two months ago and the tranny is next Ba 10/5. Also just today I was at the junkyard and came up on one of the greatest pieces of my life EURO LIGHTS!!! They were on an 82 505 wagon almost in brand new condition I was so excited finally!!! : ] I got them for $57 dollars came home put them on with my HID Kit that was already on the car and whoa not a single blind spot for at least 1/4 mile... My car is on its way to a slow but full restoration it's been my daily driver since 04 when I got it from my grandpa I have been through everything with my lil GLX and I'm a proud peugeot owner of two will never let them go. 1988 peugeot 505 GLX 5spd 2.8 v6 n second one a 1987 peugeot 505 STX AUTO V6 2.8 I will try and upload the pics of my GLX mods but my phone is stupid sometimes guys have any questions or concerns feel free to email me as I rarely am on here at [email protected] text me or call me aswell 951-842-0693 wishing u guys the best and lets keep showing them who really owns the road : ]

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I've heard the rebuild kit for the Jeep BA10/5 will work. Same syncro's and bearings. So you may have better luck trying that if you have already tried Madhu (Parts Network) or Rob (Garage Courtier) in the vendor section and struck out.

Horhay: Best way to post pics is to put them up online and then use the image link (with the location of the picture file) above to insert the picture into the post. If you don't have an online album - you can attach the pic to the post - just make sure the file size isn't crazy big.

Rabin

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Hey thanx buddy will do : ] no not yet I ran into a bit of a problem with the front bumper shock tower I guess my grandpa had got into a lil fender bender with the car before I got my hands on it he had the body work done at a very poor quality shop. In return left me with the driverside bumper shock slightly pointing upwards which didn't look right apparently they did straighten it right and welded it together where it was :/ so I just completely took the front bumper off to keep it from wrapping anymore, I have to go in and cut at the bottom of the bumper shock tower and lower the whole bracket back to where it originally was and then reweld it than I should be good : ] also I'm gonna get the car primered till I can save money for a legit paint job : ] than I want to put the front and rear turbo spoilers on I'm so excited but it's a work in progress : ] also I have come to the conclusion I want to put in an electric water pump along with a temperature controlled electric fan to eliminate the mechanical set up and save me a lil bit of lost horsepower I want to only be running the v belts for alt and power steering : ] any suggestions?

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Suggestions:

Don't do primer and leave it. Primer should only be used during prep just before painting as it doesn't seal out moisture. Cars left in primer are just open invitation to start rust under the paint. Much better to leave stock paint and some work in buffing it out and waxing it. Once you're ready to tackle paint do it all at once.

Water pump: I'd leave the mechanical pump alone - or get it rebuilt. An electric pump isn't going to gain you a measurable amount of power for the price you're paying. If you want to improve things - you could look at seeing if the Eagle Premier serpentine belt and accessories could be retrofitted. They use less power and last longer than V belts. It'd be a way cleaner install with better reliability than going with an electric water pump.

Cooling: Remove the viscous fan and install dual electric or a big single in a proper shroud. That will be the best bang for the buck power adder.

BTW: I seriously looked at doing electric water pump with my N9TE engine and they're just not reliable enough with little to know gain for a crap load of work. Mechanical water pumps are dead reliable, and if you eliminate the fan mounted to it - they'll last way longer too.

Rabin

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Jeorge, I agree with Rabin. leave the mechanical water pump as it is. Removing the viscous fan will give you the more hp you are looking for & will eliminate load on the water pump to make it last.

As for the electric fan conversion, I have done it in my 505 V6. its much better & reliable. The ZN3J also gained more hp after the conversion. its now quicker or faster in acceleration. I installed only one fan and its working perfectly. It maintains the operating engine temperature well, even though our weather here in Abuja is as high as 35 degree celsius. The car has never overheated since after the conversion & the temp guage on the instrument cluster has never gone beyound 90 C. To me, no point in using two fans for the conversion, as long as its pull/suck fan, big enough for the radiator. i never had need to switch on the A/C condenser push fan to support the installed pull fan behind the radiator. Like Rabin suggested to me, I used the radiator sensor (on the right side of the radiator) to act as a trigger for the fan. I can send/mail you the pics of my own electric fan conversion, if you want me to. they might help. Happy new year!

ikenna.

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There are two reasons I suggest two fans if you can:

1) Redundant failure - if one fan fails there's a second to prevent an over heat.

2) Hi / low fan settings. 1 fan comes on at say 90C, 2nd comes on at 100C to minimize electrical load when it's not super hot out.

If you're lacking space - two smaller fans can be mounted in tighter applications and still provide all the airflow you could want.

I agree with Ikenna that 1 fan is totally fine as well - especially with a good shroud. Using an OEM set up like Ikenna did is also a great way to ensure reliability as a Japanese OEM set up will be very reliable. Some factory cars use two fans as well with the hi/lo set up - so if you can find one of those set ups - that'd be the best IMHO.

Rabin

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Wow these are some awesome ideas thanx guys I really appreciate it and now that the over sized battery and 110 amp alt have been in I have no worries as far as power : ] can I rebuild my water pump. Myself? Because I can hear the bearing for the pump starting to chatter :/ and yes I need to get rid of the centrifugal set up its a drag :/

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what alternator was it, i wanna do this too.

i keep turning up 1-wire 110a gm alts when i search

Wow these are some awesome ideas thanx guys I really appreciate it and now that the over sized battery and 110 amp alt have been in I have no worries as far as power : ] can I rebuild my water pump. Myself? Because I can hear the bearing for the pump starting to chatter :/ and yes I need to get rid of the centrifugal set up its a drag :/

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ah, thanks, but im on the xn6 4cyl heh

Regarding V6 parts, I have ordered from http://www.specialtauto.com/. He specializes in custom built parts for the PRV and offers excellent warranty. Check out the alternators that are available.

Arun

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That's it's the same alternator it actually has two pins but one goes back to the + on alternator an the other is the signal wire.... Hey I appreciate the help guys : ] thank u

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  • 10 years later...

You basically need to find and fit an OE electric fan shroud to the radiator - You can usually use the rad temp sensor to trigger the electric motor via a relay, but just make sure to fuse the power feed to the rad temp sensor as it’s not a protected (fused) circuit - So if it ever shorts out it will burn into the main wiring harness.

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