HELP!! 505 V6 EMITS BLACK SMOKES FROM THE EXHAUST PIPE

[Justice]

Whatever you do, do NOT get a SV24... It is somewhat of a rarity, and a lot less reliable than the good old 12 valvers. Even though it makes a cool 200bhp. Or so I've been told by a Peugeot mechanic back when I was in the "scene".

[andrethx]

How busy is your hiways in USA, if I may ask?

this picture was taken a few miles south of my house. this picture is actually a few years old, if you look close you can see them widening the freeway (adding lanes). that work is done, here is a more recent picture of the same freeway, a mile or two north from where the first picture was taken:

if you look close, you can see me fuming!

didn't mean to impugn your knowledge, sorry if i offended you. i was just referring to desire --what one wants out of a car. some people enjoy working on cars, some people hate it (even if they are very knowledgeable about it). some people like working on cars but have a work & family life that makes it difficult to find the time (probably most of us on this forum!). that's all.

andré

[Ikenna]

this picture was taken a few miles south of my house. this picture is actually a few years old, if you look close you can see them widening the freeway (adding lanes). that work is done, here is a more recent picture of the same freeway, a mile or two north from where the first picture was taken:

if you look close, you can see me fuming!

didn't mean to impugn your knowledge, sorry if i offended you. i was just referring to desire --what one wants out of a car. some people enjoy working on cars, some people hate it (even if they are very knowledgeable about it). some people like working on cars but have a work & family life that makes it difficult to find the time (probably most of us on this forum!). that's all.

andré

Wow! I thought this type of traffic is only applicable to Nigeria. Hmm! I have never seen a freeway as wide as this in Nigeria. You guys must really be enjoying. Well, thats why you are regarded as developed countries, while we are known as "RETARDING" countries, with disguise name develeoping.

Andre, dont get me wrong, am not mad at you. Maybe, the tone in the in writing made it looked that way, but am not. After all, you werent the one that got me the crappy converted 505 V6 am stuck with, cant get rid of. Am actually mad at myself that I cant get what I want, and that i created this problem myself in the first place. If I had insisted that I see the car pictures and history before I give that my dishonest relative the money, all these wouldnt have happened in the first place. So I really blamed myself for all what i got myself into.

Actually, my intention now is to get another Peugeot powered by PRV, 605 (12v)and not the 24v PRV, since am obsessed with PRVs. I can now then convert the 505 v6 to XN1, popularly known as "Bullet prooffed" engine here in Nigeria. Even if it take years to complete the conversion project, i wouldnt mind since am not ready to give up 505 yet. XN1 or ZN3J (PRV) motor, 505 is an amazing car. No matter how good the 605 is, there must still be qualities of 505 it would lack. Not just for being a RWD, but for being a 505!

Please, I was never mad at you or felt offended , because I have no reason to be. Of course I know you were trying to help, as with everyother person on this forum.

To be honest, i like working or repairing cars. Its a hobby to me. Sometimes, i wouldnt mind to go on empty stomach the whole day working on a car. I dont like having a car I wont work on. Even when there is nothing wrong with the car, I would look for something to work on in the car. Even if i can afford to buy a new car now, I would still prefer to buy one i would have to open the hood once in a while to fix something. Weird it may sound, but thats me!

Ikenna.

[Ikenna]

AT LAST!

I have finally sorted out the Ignition and injection problem with the car, 505 V6. I pulled out the harness and exposed it, from the 2 ECUs to sensors and relays in engine bay and found what has been the cause of my nightmares: wrong connection on sensors, unconnected sensors and bypassed of Fuel Pump/Injectors and MAF/IAC/ECUs relays. I reconnected the wrong connections and connected the relays properly which took my a full day. By 8pm at night, I completed the job, turned the ignition switch, engine clanked and WOORAH! The engine was running like never before: sweetly, smoothly, no more hesitation, no more misfirng, no more surging, no more hunting,etc.

But i still saw little black smoke when accelerated very hard. I checked again vacuum lines and blocked one of them and it just stopped. I floored the throttle and didnt see any smoke. In fact, for the first time since i have the car, it was bringing out steam from the exhaust.

Later on, i decided to try back the IAC the car came with which i replaced long time ago with one from 605 V6 (ZPJ). After putting it, the there was no smoke at idle, but would throw out little smoke from exhaust when accelerated hard. I removed & put back the 605 IAC and the black smoke was gone again.

I filed the fuel tank, add MOBIL fuel injection system cleaner in the tank, drained and refilled the engine oil and replaced the oil filter as well two days ago. Am observing it to see if fuel will dilute oil in the oil pan again (which i doubt). The car is now running great

Now am happily scouting for 605 V6, which will be my daily driver, because the 505 V6 5sp manual is really a fun car to drive and will be used occassionaly and is my BABY!

Ikenna.

[horhayj505]

Actually ikenna I have a turbo cluster in my car swell if u take the back of ur cluster apart there's a frequency adjuster screw on the circuit board...I used a timing light for rpm reference and matched it and it was all good.....reason why I got cluster was im hoping I can somehow use the turbo gage for my supercharger whenever I get around to doing that to my prv ....

[Bean]

AWESOME news Ikenna!

Were you able to sort out the oxygen sensor as well? This will be key in ensuring the car is running as the factory intended. Did you take pictures?

I'll also be very curious to hear what you have to say about the 605 vs the 505 once you get one. We never got the 605, but I've heard fantastic things about the 605 and 607 models.

Horhay: Thanks for the tip on the cluster adjustment for the tach - I didn't know it had that.

Rabin

[Ikenna]

Actually ikenna I have a turbo cluster in my car swell if u take the back of ur cluster apart there's a frequency adjuster screw on the circuit board...I used a timing light for rpm reference and matched it and it was all good.....reason why I got cluster was im hoping I can somehow use the turbo gage for my supercharger whenever I get around to doing that to my prv ....

Jeorge, I dont have have timing light & dont even know what it looks like. But i have test light. will that work?

Also, the tachometer is not even connected on the Ignition coil. the wires for the tacho are not even in the engine bay. Even if am to run another connection, i dont even know which plug/connector on the back of the cluster to connect the wires to. Two connectors are plugged in the tacho panel, as you can see in the pic. i dont know which one to connect wires from the ignition coil.

ikenna.

[Ikenna]

AWESOME news Ikenna!

Were you able to sort out the oxygen sensor as well? This will be key in ensuring the car is running as the factory intended. Did you take pictures?

I'll also be very curious to hear what you have to say about the 605 vs the 505 once you get one. We never got the 605, but I've heard fantastic things about the 605 and 607 models.

Horhay: Thanks for the tip on the cluster adjustment for the tach - I didn't know it had that.

Rabin

Rabin,

Unfortunately, I have not been able to put the oxygen sensor. The car runs rich, even after fixing the harness issue, which i believe is caused by lack of 02 sensor. The wires from Injection ECU & + wire feed from relay to the sensor are still intact. But i dont even know where 02 sensor on should be on the exhaust. I checked the exhaust & did not see any sign of where the sensor should be. No opening or closed opening on the exhaust pipe at all. Even the part 505 V6 i wanted to buy the harness before, i also checked it exhaust but didnt see 02 sensor on it too. Its baffling.

Am still battling to adjust the throotle stop to factory, but its still taking me me time. i didnt know that the engine has been runninh high all those while. I have been trying to get it back to normal but it will either sound high or too low to stall. I still left it high. It could be contributing to engine running rich.

Unfortunately, I was so occupied with the work that day that I forgot to take pics. Am still regreting it. But am yet to bound all the wires (harness) with black tape. I neatly packed them in the engine bay, pending when am able to complete the taping. Sorry guys.

Ikenna.

[N9TE]

Outstanding! I'm quite impressed. You had a buttload of obsticals staring you down and you stuck with it when most people would have thrown in the towel. We should have a golden wrench award. If we ever get one, you'll be one of the first recipients!

Glad to hear you came out on top here. Congratulations!

[Ikenna]

I will take pics of the 3 relays above fuse box & to see the job i did there. And will take pics of other areas where am yet to tape the wires.

Bearing on the Viscous fan coupling of the car damaged and was making terrible noise. I removed it last night & gave it to a weld to construct it to a welder and instructed him to weld it permanently on the clucth. The bearing is no longer in use. It turns permanently like XN1, as long as engine is running. I did it because the radiator switch that is suppose to be controlling the fan wasnt not connected all along. No wire around the switch at all. The fan was working before because the bearing damaged, seized and was pulling the fan until it began making frightful loud grinding noise which was affecting the PAS, which would make the steering wheel vibrate whenever it made the noise. So if i had replaced the bearing, then the fan wont turn anymore, since the connection on the radiator switch is off.

Attached are the pics.

Ikenna.

[Bean]

Viscous fans are a mechanical engagement - that center section has a viscous fluid inside it, and when it gets hot it lock up and drives the fan blades.

If I were you, and the work hasn't been done yet I would replace the bearing and verify the clutch center is still functional. Or - fit a used on that still works. When the engine is hot, the blades should be fully engaged to the pulley hub. When cold - it should spin freely.

The rad temp sensor only controls the electric AC fan on the front.

The O2 sensor is a must. I'll try to get a look at my 505 GLX exhaust pipes to tell you exactly where it is supposed to be. (If anyone else can that'd be awesome!) The idling problem still sounds like your idle control valve. The throttle blade should be totally closed, and the IAC should be controlling the air the engine uses at idle.

Still sounds like you've got a bit of tuning to do, but the biggest hurdle is behind you! Some fine tuning and your car will be 100%.

Rabin

[Ikenna]

Viscous fans are a mechanical engagement - that center section has a viscous fluid inside it, and when it gets hot it lock up and drives the fan blades.

If I were you, and the work hasn't been done yet I would replace the bearing and verify the clutch center is still functional. Or - fit a used on that still works. When the engine is hot, the blades should be fully engaged to the pulley hub. When cold - it should spin freely.

The rad temp sensor only controls the electric AC fan on the front.

The O2 sensor is a must. I'll try to get a look at my 505 GLX exhaust pipes to tell you exactly where it is supposed to be. (If anyone else can that'd be awesome!) The idling problem still sounds like your idle control valve. The throttle blade should be totally closed, and the IAC should be controlling the air the engine uses at idle.

Still sounds like you've got a bit of tuning to do, but the biggest hurdle is behind you! Some fine tuning and your car will be 100%.

Rabin

Locking up the cooling fan to the engine, like I did, its a surest way of preventing any engine overheating. That i have confirmed. It also makes the make a howl noise when revved, no matter how small. It does really bring out the Lion roaring sound to it fullest. It can be quite impressive!

But on the other hand, it no longer allow the engine to warm to a required temperature for the engine to perform at a required temperature. The temperature guage is now always showing low teemperature, which would be making the car to run rich, but will never overheat though. The engine sound has become harsh when revved, unlike before when the more you rev, the smoother the engine sounds. Damn! I love PRV! The sweet song of the 6 cylinders under the hood is now gone. I missed it!

So, I have decided to remove the clutch that I locked up to the engine & buy another good clutch in good condition, which wouldnt be a problem to find. But will keep that the other as spare, & will keep it in the whenever I will a drive a long distance with it, incase the normal clutch to be replaced fails on a highway, where we do meet hold up sometimes.

But I will have to suspend replacing it today, because am not touching any tools today. I have a Birthday to celebrate.

Ikenna

[Bean]

Locking up the cooling fan to the engine, like I did, its a surest way of preventing any engine overheating. That i have confirmed. It also makes the make a howl noise when revved, no matter how small. It does really bring out the Lion roaring sound to it fullest. It can be quite impressive!

But on the other hand, it no longer allow the engine to warm to a required temperature for the engine to perform at a required temperature. The temperature guage is now always showing low teemperature, which would be making the car to run rich, but will never overheat though. The engine sound has become harsh when revved, unlike before when the more you rev, the smoother the engine sounds. Damn! I love PRV! The sweet song of the 6 cylinders under the hood is now gone. I missed it!

So, I have decided to remove the clutch that I locked up to the engine & buy another good clutch in good condition, which wouldnt be a problem to find. But will keep that the other as spare, & will keep it in the whenever I will a drive a long distance with it, incase the normal clutch to be replaced fails on a highway, where we do meet hold up sometimes.

But I will have to suspend replacing it today, because am not touching any tools today. I have a Birthday to celebrate.

Ikenna

Nope - not the surest way. All you've done is ensure the fan is engaged all the time - that's it. Engine temperature is determined by your thermostat, and if that was to get stuck in the closed position your engine would overheat no matter what. The fact your engine isn't coming up to temperature now means it's opening too soon, or is stuck open as it should only open flow to the radiator once it's reached operating temp. By locking the fan down - you've also robbed your engine of a good 20+ horsepower, and undue loads on your water pump as that fan will be transferring load to the shaft all the time - especially if the welding caused a rotational imbalance.

Welding the fan is a last ditch emergency fix, not a long term solution. It's something I'd expect to hear that was done by one of your rewire's. The proper fix would be to install a working viscous fan, and if you couldn't find a good one, then retro fit some temperature controlled electric fans.

If you fix it properly - you should never have to worry about carrying spare parts, or swapping fans before a trip.

Now have a happy birthday.

Rabin

[Ikenna]

Last nite, my Birthday, was really fun! I first drove to NICCON Luxury, had some fun, drove off again to Silverbird & ended up at Amber Lounge, had more fun (some 17:59 & some othe stuffs). It was great. Mobility, made possible by my Baby. One of the attached pics is the car at Silverbird last nite.

Anyway, this morning, I woke up & quickly removed the fan coupling. I rushed to Peugeot used shop, bought one in good condition & fixed it. Rabin, you were right. The car now moves faster & better. Its as if it wasnt getting all the engine HP on the wheels before. But now, the performance is quite interesting. And more importantly, the sweet smooth revving sound is back.

Ikenna.

[Bean]

Excellent - glad that your 505 was your birthday celebration transportation!

Also good that you fixed the car properly. I would suggest keeping that aluminum center nice an clean so that it can react better to the temperature changes. It engages and disengages based on it's physical temperature - so if it's clean it'll work better.

Rabin

[Ikenna]

Rabin,

Arun sent me pic of O2 sensor on his 505 V6. The sensor is on the Catalytic converter on his car. Meaning that I either get a V6 Cat converter with the sensor attahed or get anyother 505 exhaust center pot with the sensor on. Not all 505 V6 has factory Cat converter. So those without caty must have had there o2 sensor on the exhaust pipe or the centre pot.

Am yet to find the V6 Cat converter. Last week, i found a caty converter, but not 505's. It was 406 own. The o2 sensor wasnt on the caty, but on the pipe before the caty. It has 4 wires like the 505 V6 o2 sensor. I can cut out the pipe with the sensor on and cut it in on my exhaust pipe before the centre pot. But the problem is that the o2 sensor 4 wires of the 406 has 3 blue wires and 1 white wire. The wire on for the sensor on mine is one red (from the relay+), black wire for ground, blue wire from Inj ECU & another ground wire from Inj ECU. So I wouldnt know which is which if am to connect them. The wiring connections are different. Also, I would know if they the o2 sensor is also Bosch, that is 505 V6 uses.

So, Rabin, should i forget buying the 406 sensor and the construction or should i go ahead, not knowing if the connections would work, because i can tell from the color of the wires which one is + power source and the functions of the 3 other wires on the 406 o2 sensor?

Ikenna.

[Ikenna]

Rabin,

Arun sent me pic of O2 sensor on his 505 V6. The sensor is on the Catalytic converter on his car. Meaning that I either get a V6 Cat converter with the sensor attahed or get anyother 505 exhaust center pot with the sensor on. Not all 505 V6 has factory Cat converter. So those without caty must have had there o2 sensor on the exhaust pipe or the centre pot.

Am yet to find the V6 Cat converter. Last week, i found a caty converter, but not 505's. It was 406 own. The o2 sensor wasnt on the caty, but on the pipe before the caty. It has 4 wires like the 505 V6 o2 sensor. I can cut out the pipe with the sensor on and cut it in on my exhaust pipe before the centre pot. But the problem is that the o2 sensor 4 wires of the 406 has 3 blue wires and 1 white wire. The wire on for the sensor on mine is one red (from the relay+), black wire for ground, blue wire from Inj ECU & another ground wire from Inj ECU. So I wouldnt know which is which if am to connect them. The wiring connections are different. Also, I would know if they the o2 sensor is also Bosch, that is 505 V6 uses.

So, Rabin, should i forget buying the 406 sensor and the construction or should i go ahead, not knowing if the connections would work, because i can tell from the color of the wires which one is + power source and the functions of the 3 other wires on the 406 o2 sensor?

Ikenna.

[Ikenna]

I now understand.

Since late '70s Peugeot started production in Nigeria, all the cars, starting from 504, 505,etc, all had their cooling fan locked to the engine. All brand new imported vehicles, both Peugeots & others, also all have their Fan running/engaged all the time. The vehicles with electric fans are engaged all the time. Even the used imported ones, once they come in, their thermostat are removed, their connection to the electric fans bypassed & connected directly to the ignition switch, such that once the ignition is on, the fan will start running till the ignition is switched off. All these tells us that Nigeria is a goddamn hot climate country. Even the auto makers know that & produce Nigeria specifications for us, both the locally manufactured & the imported.

Am my way back to home from office this evening, i met traffic on the way after driven for 5mins. About 10 mins while still in the traffic, i looked to see the fuel level on the guage & my eyes caught something i never saw for once on the instrument cluster - the level of the engine temperature on the guage. The attached pic will speak for itself. All the while I was using the locked fan to the water pump shaft, the temp level has never passed level 90 on the guage. Its always in the middle between 70 & 90, no matter how long i spent in a traffic. Not even for once! I quickly veered off the road & drove through path till i got home (I was almost close to home where i met the traffic).

Its very obvious that Nigeria is not meant for Vicious fan or even Electric fan controled by temperature sensor. Even if one tries to use the car with the fan been controled by the sensor & thermostat, they will malfunction sonner than one expect because the climate is so hot that thermostat will always be opening and closing & might even remain or stuck open since the fluid will always be hot. In my own case, maybe the clutch is faulty & not engaging, though its spining freely, but enough to suck heat out. Or maybe the aluminion Rabin suggested is so dirty that its not getting hot to engage to the shaft & spin with the shaft. But then, cleaning the aluminium maybe a permanent solution because Nigeria is also a very dusty country. The fan will always accumulate dust, likewise the dust. So does that mean i will always be pulling it out to clean to make it work? What if it fails to work suddenly on long distance journey when i meet a traffic, which is very certain, after driving such a long distance? The solution to this is very obvious.

When the car first arrived in January this year, I noticed that fan was hard to turn with hand. It wasnt spining freely when the engine wasnt running. I then also noticed that the cause of that was bearing failure of the fan clutch. So whenever the engine was running, the failed bearing would be driving the fan as well, but not as a locked fan would spin. That was why it was allowing the engine to rev smoothly & wouldnt cause overheating, until the failed bearing started making loud grinding noise that I heard to do something about it, which was locking the fan to the water pump shaft.

Painfully, I will have to remove & return the welded fan clutch back to the engine to prevent engine rebuild. Am not ready to deal with head gasket issue now. Because a blown head gasket for that engine is as good as replacing the entire engine. So i will have to sacrifice some HP that will be loss by the draging of the locked fan & the sweet smooth revving PRV sound to save the engine. So painful!

Ikenna.

[Bean]

The replacement fan you have is likely not working - as with most old viscous fan's - so your only proper solution would be to install a new one, or install electrical fans.

I do understand that your climate is VERY hot, so maybe I don't appreciate just how hot it can me. The hottest we have gotten so far here was +42C, and my 505 Turbo ran beautifully with a fully operational magnetic clutch fan, and temp stayed perfect. I would assume you get hotter that that - but how much hotter?

Despite what you've said manufacturers do - if it was me I would remove the viscous fan set up and replace with two thermostatically controlled electric fans. I would also wire in a manual switch so that you could manually bypass the thermostat and run them whenever you needed maximum cooling.

From the low temps your car had not being able to warm up, it's clear your coolant thermostat is also not functioning properly, and this is critical for your engine to maintain proper operating temp. We don't know for sure if the fan wasn't cooling, or if your thermostat was not opening all the way - it could be operating very erratically getting stuck in either position.

For your oxygen sensor - if you can find a Bosch O2 sensor with the same plug in as your wiring harness it should plug in and work fine as Bosch will keep the connector design consistent. You should refrain from cutting and soldering wires at all if possible as this changes the resistance of the sensor wire which messes with the signal to the ECU. Crimping new connectors is usually OK though if done well. A quick google should show you which colour wires are which (google the sensor number I'd guess), but one will be the signal wire, one will be signal ground, and the other two will be + and - for the heater circuit.

Rabin

[andrethx]

this is an interesting puzzle. before i read ikenna's latest post, i wondered if i could find out the location of the oxygen sensor on the american version of the zn3j. i looked in my parts books, and the oxygen sensor it showed for the v6 was part # 1628.83/a4. my hope was that there would be an illustration of the sensor along with the point at which it mounts...no such luck, the plate shows an illustration of the sensor, by itself, floating in space.

an interesting thing, though -- the illustration of the sensor clearly shows a 1-wire sensor. now, i have learned on this forum and from talking to people that oxygen sensors with 3 or more wires are heated (since the sensor has to be very hot to work properly), so they can be farther back in the exhaust system. one-wire sensors have to be closer to the engine where it's hot, so they will heat up and function properly. my own engine bears this out -- my one-wire sensor on my xn6 is on the down pipe, a few inches from where it connects to the exhaust manifold. so my guess was, the zn3j oxygen sensor was somewhere on the exhaust manifold or the downpipe.

i looked at those plates for the zn3j, and the one place i could see that the oxygen sensor could be mounted was on the exhaust manifold. i've attached a (crappy) scan to show what i'm talking about:

so without knowing anything else, i would have guessed that this was the location of the oxygen sensor on the US zn3j.

after reading ikenna's earlier email, though, now i'm confused/intrigued. is arun's cat/sensor setup stock (i.e., original equipment)? could a 24-year old cat on a high-mileage car still work? do they emissions test in virginia where arun lives? on zn3j cars that have that threaded bung on the exhaust mainfold, what goes there if not the oxygen sensor?

anxious to see how this turns out...

andré

[Ikenna]

Well, i just finished swapping the fan coupling. At least, I wont be bothered with over heating again or have reason to look at the temp guage on the instrument cluster.

While I was swapping it, it occured to me that another way of solving this problem would converting it to electric. It will help the engine a lot. But then, a lot of basket cases of frequent failures of electric fans of over here in Nigeria. Because the electric fans run constantly here, the fan motors fail frequently and end up overheating the engines the car owners were trying to prevent in the first place. Many atimes, people would tell me how lucky are we, the 504 & 505 owners, that have manually locked fans to the engine. That we may not appreciate what we are enjoying until we make attempt to own a fan electric cooling engine car. At least, as long as the fan belt is there, overheating of the engine is minimal for us. Unfortunately here in Nigeria, people hardly see new fans to buy to replace the failed ones in their cars. So they end up buying & replacing with used ones, which their motors could be weak already & would end up failing soon.

If i could get a sizeable new electric fan, I will do the conversion. But am yet to see anyone that ever found, bought & replaced new fan, except used ones. The last thing I would do is to convert to electric fan with used one & end up suffering like them. Until I find new one, if possible, I will remain with the locked up fan.

Ikenna.

[andrethx]

Because the electric fans run constantly here, the fan motors fail frequently and end up overheating the engines the car owners were trying to prevent in the first place.

i believe this is why rabin is suggesting two fans, in part for redundancy (since the likelyhood of both fans failing at the same time is very, very small). i should think you'd want to wire them so that they work independently of each other...

andré

[Ikenna]

Andre, from looking at your posted image of ZN3J Exhaust manifold, the one with the hole for the o2 sensor is the left side cylinder bank. I have quickly opened my cars bonnet & checked, trying to feel or see any hole or sensor, even on the other bank, but didnt find any. This beccoming more confusing. Though, on the part 505 V6 I once saw. I thorough checked the whole exhaust, looking for the sensor, but didnt find anything to show that the car had o2 sensor on the exhaust. Maybe, the sensor was on the manifold like the one in the image. But the engine was no longer in the car then, so i wouldnt know. But the car wasnt American spec, it was Euro spec. More confusing!

Ikenna.

[Bean]

i believe this is why rabin is suggesting two fans, in part for redundancy (since the likelyhood of both fans failing at the same time is very, very small). i should think you'd want to wire them so that they work independently of each other...

andré

Exact-a-mundo...

2 fans for failure redundancy, thermostatically controlled so electric fans are only run when needed (they're not designed for 100% on), and manual over-ride for when it's super hot. The manual over ride should never really change functionality - but it will protect if the temp switch that turns them on fails.

As for used fans - get them from the newest cars sold in Nigeria - they don't have to be from an old car.

Using your welded fan is of course your decision, but it does have it's own downsides from loss of power to loss of fuel efficiency. You will still need to install a new coolant thermostat as well.

Rabin

[Bean]

Yes - once Ikenna mentioned where the O2 sensor was, I remembered it being there at the entrance to the cat. Each downpipe from each side joins together at a Y, and immediately goes into the cat, and that's where the O2 sensor is. Since it's a good 36" from the engine, heated would be the way to go.

The bung in Andre's picture is just filled with a plug on my exhaust manifold, in the earlier engines there were EGR pipes that fed into that opening I believe.

Ikenna - does you car have the plug in for the O2? If so it should be easy to get you a picture that shows you which wires go to which pins / wires.

Rabin