Bean Posted October 15, 2012 Report Share Posted October 15, 2012 Second set in North America that I know of - Arun has a set as well, but he was saying that they're not very well made. He might modify them to improve the build quality - but it's still hard to argue how very good the euro lights look. tough call indeed as the staggered lights look great as well. If you do keep them and fit e-code lights - that 4 light set up should be better than the standard single H4 Euro headlights. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted October 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 rabin -- the more i think about it, the more i am thinking that i will keep the morette knock-offs...i will definitely put a bit of work into them to make them sturdier, as arun has suggested. i'll document that when i get to it, in case any of you are thinking of asking ikenna to get you some. here is my most recent parts score: nos part, still in the box. this saves me a bit of work, plus i now have spare pumps (as well as a spare mounting frame) for when the need will doubtless arise. on another note -- i had hoped to show my car at this year's french and italian car show, but sadly, that doesn't look as if it's going to happen. my mother-in-law just had surgery for breast cancer, and although she's doing fine, we've spent a lot of time dealing with that so family stuff and work haven't left much quality peugeot time lately. i'll definitely go and take pics, though... andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 Nice score Andre! I've been on the fence with how I wanted to go, but I like the ideal of fitting a main pump into that bracket and doing away with the under car one and just leaving the filter there. If the car sees any serious track days then I'll do the surge tank with another fuel pump inside it to feed the motor. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 BTW - I've got a set of crappy biode 504 euro lights that I'm going to attempt to fit the high beam reflector into the 505 euro for the 89. The buckets look identical, so it should work perfect - I just need to get them re-silvered / chromed first. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anj Posted October 25, 2012 Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 Hi Andre, $51.23 You and I were bidding for the same item. i wish we didnt have to run the price up on each other. I will keep an eye on T***A. Arun aka A***A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted October 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 Hi Andre, $51.23 You and I were bidding for the same item. i wish we didnt have to run the price up on each other. I will keep an eye on T***A. Arun aka A***A ha! that's funny, i had no idea it was you. i just happened to see that item shortly after it was listed, and i put in a $60 bid at that time. i figured i would raise the bid as necessary. the replacement pierburg i got from WH was $94.35...and that was just for the pump. i later saw another one just like it on ebay for $30 so i scooped that up as well. i've seen a few since then, they usually go for $30-$65; and that's just for the pump. i was going to have the frame plated, re-wire it & replace the fuel lines on it before i replaced the pump mechanism. buying the whole pump/frame assembly saved me all of that trouble, so i was actually prepared to go a lot higher than $51.23. were you buying that as a spare, or do you need a fuel pump? andré ps -- when i look at the bid history, my userid shows up as a***5; i saw yours as a***a. the next time i see that we are bidding against each other, i'll give you a shout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted October 25, 2012 Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 That's funny - I was humming and hawwing on whether to bid or not, and decided not to pursue it... I could have easily been in on that battle. My e-bay username is rabin505 - so I would assume it would show as r***5 - for future reference that is. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal505 Posted October 25, 2012 Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 Lol ebay names sound so offensive. But that pump is money! Also, am I the only one who thinks WH is really expensive? I've heard somethings about Miles that would make me take my business elsewhere.. And Andre - if you have the chance, tow your car to the meet I will live vicariously through you and your non-running 505. -Sina Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anj Posted October 25, 2012 Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 Thanks Andre for the offer, but I was replacing everything on the gas tank including all the gaskets, filters and pump. Replacing the in tank pump after 25 years just makes sense. My current one works well and I have a spare. As time becomes more valuable I prefer to replace with OEM new over used because I don't want to redo any project. Like you I am constantly picking up spares as my car is DD and I can't wait for parts. Arun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted October 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2012 so i decided against having my fuel tank powder coated, but i am going to paint it so instead of spending a bunch of time stripping it myself, i took it to the sandblasting place that i use sometimes. should be ready next week. i also picked up my 5th wheel from the powdercoating place -- the one that's going to be my spare. if you've ever wondered what a 505 alloy looks like in black, here it is: andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 I like them in black - be curious to see what it looks like with the tire and center cap installed. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted December 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 i had a breakthrough today! you may recall, a few months back i got a replacement dashboard from brian holm; while installing the new dash, i ran into a problem -- i could not figure out how to connect the venturi hose that goes under the dash. the venturi hose looks like this: one end attaches to the cabin temperature sensor (part of the automatic climate control on the series 2 505s) and the other end attaches to the heater control box behind the dash; this hose assembly is designed to draw cabin air in through the temperature sensor side. here's another pic of the venturi hose assembly, with the cabin temperature sensor plugged into the correct side: after i installed the new dashboard, i could not for the life of me find the connection point for the other end of the assembly! i spent a lot of time looking for this but didn't have any luck; i was stymied for months! today i posted this problem on the peugeot-l yahoo list and got help from some of the members there. it turns out that the attachment point for this hose is on top of the heater control box, in a spot that is very hard to see once the dash is installed. here is a pic i took looking through some of the very narrow openings in that area: and here's a wider shot to show you the area in question: the trick is, the hose must be installed before the dash is installed, because the spot that it's in is not reachable afterwards. so i pulled the dash out and got the hose connected. here is a shot i took looking down through the front windshield: and here is another shot of the dash (passengers' side) showing where the the temperature sensor goes: so now that i've got this issue resolved, i can finally start to make some real progress on my car! andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 Awesome job of documenting how the hose fits into the dash Andre! Glad you were able to sort it out, Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peugeottogo Posted December 11, 2012 Report Share Posted December 11, 2012 Great update Andre' I sure was stumped as well as others that have dug this far into the components within the dash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted December 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2012 thanks for the encouragement, guys, it always helps... anyway, i swapped out some body parts yesterday. i had bought a white turbo trunk lid from aaron a while back and it was just taking up space in my garage so i swapped out my old lid for this "new" one: it's sitting a bit low, so i still need to adjust the trunk rubber buffers to raise it somewhat. you can see better in this next pic: i also changed out the fuel filler door for one i got from sina. the old one was tweaked such that it wouldn't sit straight. besides adjusting the rubber buffers on the trunk, i also have to swap out the trunk lock for my old one and fabricate rear fender guards for the spoiler. out of all of these tasks, i'm least looking forward to swapping out the locks, since i'm not really clear on how the trunk lock works. i understand that the latch catches automatically when the trunk lid is closed, and that the latch opens when the lever is activated, but i'm not really clear on how all of the parts fit together (the latch, the motor and the key cylinder/cam)...any helpful explanations would be appreciated! andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted December 12, 2012 Report Share Posted December 12, 2012 Trunk lock is easily removed from inside the trunk lid - it's held in place with a flat "U" shaped piece of steel that simply slides into a groove on the lock and holds it firm. It will be clear when you look at it. Lock should just pop out, and the new one goes in. Press the lock firmly into the hole as you slide the U shaped locking plate in place and you're good to go. There's no physical link to the lock - there's just a lever that swings around / plunges in on the lock that engages a lever on the latch. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted December 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2012 got the trunk lock sorted out. the thing i was missing, was the black plastic clip at the end of the trunk lock actuator motor. this clip has to be installed between the cam on the trunk lock and the lever on the latch mechanism -- otherwise, it's nearly impossible for the lock cam to contact the release lever on the latch, even when the lock button is depressed. the lock works great now, and i've just about got the rubber buffers adjusted to the correct height. also, i put in a new rear deck panel, made from orange plastic, and a new carpet piece. both the panel and the carpet were cut using the originals as templates. the carpet is attached to the panel using 3M spray adhesive. this new carpet is cut from the extra yardage i got when i bought the new carpet set for the floor. here's the finished product: the plastic trim panel that goes under the armrest doesn't look so washed out in real life, it's just the light in the photo. once i get my rear deck speakers ready to go, i will install them (more on that later). still deciding what i want to do about the 3rd brake light... andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted December 20, 2012 Report Share Posted December 20, 2012 http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html Bottom of the page. I prefer the 3rd brake light at the top of the rear window myself, the only question I'd have is what the finish of the back of the housing is like... New carpet looks fanatastic! Your interior is going to be amazing when done - and oh so quiet compared to stock. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal505 Posted December 20, 2012 Report Share Posted December 20, 2012 Looks awesome! Nice to know there is someone else with a mismatched trunk-lid like myself I definitely need to get myself a pair of rubber rear fender guards. Keep me posted on how the developing of your pair goes. Sina Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted December 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2012 Keep me posted on how the developing of your pair goes. okay, i'm going to assume that you're talking about the fender guards here... andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anj Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 andréFor my third brake light I moved it to the top of the window and went with a inexpensive LED strip. With the interior out this was the perfect time to reroute the wires. I will get some pic tomorrow. I am also going to have the antenna on the roof and will run the cable for that at the same time.Regarding the trunk, did you have the hinges attached or are using your orginal hinges. My trunk must have been changed as it only has one strut and it is not enough. I will be adding another strut and fabricating mounts. When I had the parts car I should have removed the hinges and bottom support.Arun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal505 Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 okay, i'm going to assume that you're talking about the fender guards here... andré hahahaha seems i lost my focus when typing that post out. but yes. let me know how that goes. my quarter panel's gettin scratched up in the rear, and it sits funny. s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted December 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 @sina -- will keep you updated about the fender guards, but that's certainly a ways out from now. also, my wife is appalled at the white trunk lid, not impressed at all. @arun -- i have considered this location, but i'm not sure how i feel about bonding a light to the glass since a window tint is in my future to protect my "new" interior from the SoCal sun...i thought about mounting something from the back edge of the "ceiling," but the dome light there makes that tricky. rabin brings up a good point about the appearance of the back of the light, i hadn't even reached that consideration yet. i would love to see pics of your 3rd brake light setup when you get the chance... right now, i am using the original trunk hinges. the heavier trunk lid stays up at maximum extension, but if i bump into the trunk lid it will slam down pretty rapidly. i have a set of turbo trunk hinges (both have strut mount point) that i got from aaron & had powdercoated black, along with a second gas strut...once i get a lower mount point worked out i'll be installing them. andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted December 22, 2012 Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 RE: Tint - any good shop would easily be able to go around the high mounted light if it was bonded to the glass. Personally I'd insist that the light be sealed against the glass so that the light doesn't reflect off the glass should it not be right against the glass. Think backing up as you ride the brake in the dark - if the light isn't sealed on the glass it could reflect and make it hard to see out. OEM deck mounted light has a rubber boot that prevented that - so something similar would be needed if it wasn't sealed to the glass direct. Another point about the LED strips is that you want to make sure the LED's throw their beam of light at the right angles so they're as bright as possible. I prefer the light to be high mounted, but the style of spoiler I used had the integrated LED brake light so I'm just going to use that. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted May 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2013 well, it's been many months since i updated this thread! i've been very busy with work, my job is somewhat seasonal so i expect that things will be slowing down over the next few months...in any event, i've been buying stuff (as usual) and trying to plan so that i can complete some big projects for my car. one of those projects is the fabrication of new fuel lines. our cars are getting on in years, and i've been doing a lot of reading on porsche and ferrari forums on CIS fuel line replacement. a damaged fuel line can leak and cause fires, so i decided to replace my soft lines completely since i had some lines that showed signs of wear on the outer covering. the new lines look much smaller in diameter as compared to the old lines, but the new polyamide lines are much stronger and long-lasting than the old lines (which needed a rubbery plastic outer cover). i was lucky to find a fuel line specialist in the LA area, together we sourced new hose material and fittings. the new stuff is mostly made by cohline, a german manufacturer. new fuel line fabrication, part 1 here are the new fittings, got lots of extras. the bag marked "andre" contains the old fitting samples: here are the tools i used to make the lines. the first tool is a fuel line repair kit from dorman...i had heard about other tools for this task, but it was difficult to find them for sale. this tool was pretty good, got it from amazon. the CIS fuel lines are fairly high pressure (approx. 100 psi or 7 bar), so a tight fit is a must. it's possible to heat the lines to insert the fitting barb, but i heard that this weakens the line so i was determined to use a mechanical solution. the second tool is a cutter -- straight cuts are important to get a good fit! next is the material i used for the lines. minimum order quantities being what they are, i had to order lots more than i needed. the first pic is the NOS OE fuel line i got from germany a while back and the second pic is the cohline material. the third pic is some additional polyamide material i got from mcmaster-carr: the way the fuel line repair tool works is sort of like a bar clamp that one would use in carpentry...the fitting sits on the handle side, and the hose is attached to the moving side...this is a pistol-grip type handle that you use to compress the clamp (it is ratcheted), it can be done with one hand. if you don't know what a bar clamp is, just imagine a bench vise that you can hold. the hose is held on the moving side of the clamp with a two-piece metal armature...it splits in half and has holes drilled through it to hold the hose material. one end has "threads" to grip the hose...this kit had 3 different size holes to accommodate different sizes of hose. the hose in this picture is sticking out a bit too far, it should only be about a quarter of an inch (about 6 mm); in my defense, it was a bit tricky to hold this and photograph it at the same time. one problem i ran into, my hose was a bit too small for the smallest size of the armature. i tried a few different things until i settled on wrapping my hose with electrical tape to increase its effective diameter: the two pieces of the armature are assembled with thumbscrews, and the armature is attached to the clamp jaw with another thumbscrew. here's the whole thing assembled, hopefully you can see what i'm talking about: like a hand-clamp, the pistol grip has a ratchet mechanism so that you can easily get a tight fit. another problem i ran into was holding the fitting on the stationary jaw...the kit came with a variety of interchangeable "holders," but none was designed to work with banjo fittings. i found by using the "holder" shown above that i could tighten the clamp to where the banjo fitting was held in by tension, and the piston on that "holder" helped to keep everything straight. the next bit is the key to all of this. after a few failed attempts to get the banjo fitting barb inserted into the hose, i tried lubricating the barb with a tiny bit of motor oil (a tip i had read on a ferrari site). it worked great, and i ended up with a nice finished product! and the finished product: i started with the lines running between the fuel distributor and the injectors, so in part 2 i'll show how i attached the swivel fittings and the compression nuts... andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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