Bean Posted March 31, 2011 Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 There's a saying here: "If you didn't have bad luck - you'd have no luck at all" which means you only seem to have bad luck! My guess is that the ignition timing was knocked out of time... For it to run well when it finally starts seems odd, and it eliminates the ECU and such. Ignition module as well since the car does run well once started. Poor spark output might be the cause. Were the new plugs gapped properly? Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ikenna Posted March 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 There's a saying here: "If you didn't have bad luck - you'd have no luck at all" which means you only seem to have bad luck! My guess is that the ignition timing was knocked out of time... For it to run well when it finally starts seems odd, and it eliminates the ECU and such. Ignition module as well since the car does run well once started. Poor spark output might be the cause. Were the new plugs gapped properly? Rabin I wouldnt know if the Rewire gapped the new spark plugs before changing them with the old ones. But even at that, the old ones were starting the engine at one clank of the engine. so it shouldnt hv been a problem to start the car while they were still there. the hard starting problem started when he switched or changed the wirings on the Amp module connector. At a point when the car wouldnt start with the replced Amp module & coil, I noticed the wiring connecctor on the CPS was loosed. i fixed it tighly which I believed made the car to start starting, but hard starting instead. ikenna. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted March 31, 2011 Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 I wouldnt know if the Rewire gapped the new spark plugs before changing them with the old ones. But even at that, the old ones were starting the engine at one clank of the engine. so it shouldnt hv been a problem to start the car while they were still there. the hard starting problem started when he switched or changed the wirings on the Amp module connector. At a point when the car wouldnt start with the replced Amp module & coil, I noticed the wiring connecctor on the CPS was loosed. i fixed it tighly which I believed made the car to start starting, but hard starting instead. ikenna. Too large of a gap and it'll be harder for the car to start. Since you don't know - you can't rule it out. Also - Ignition modules usuall work or they don't. I can't comment on wiring in the wrong module as that kind of thing just isn't done here - but the rule of it working or it doesn't should remain the same. Can';t hurt to check all the other electrical connections. Only other issue would be if there was now weak spark because of the ignition module change - but it's impossible to know unless you test it. At the very least I'd pull one plug, ground the base and crank the engine over to see if the spark is a nice strong blue colour. I also don't think you should take your car to any more rewires! They are causing way more damage than they are worth. Instead I'd invest in tools and service manuals for the car so you can fix it properly yourself. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick@nite Posted March 31, 2011 Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 If it still just goes click now? We wire a relay from the ign switch to the starter and that fixes the problem. Very common problem with 505 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ikenna Posted March 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 Rabin, Thanks. Why this even happened in the first place was because i couldnt leave my work to stay and monitor what he touches in that engine bay. There is no way I would have allowed to touch and switch the wires on the Amplifier module wirng connector. He claimed it was wrongly connected by those that did the conversion. But even at that I wouldnt hv allowed him, since the car starts and revs well all the while i hv bn drivin the car since it arrived for the past 3 months. He claimed he did that because he believed it was the cause of the black smoke from the exhaust. Now we know better! Except at a very high cost. Today, he was telling me on the phone that the cause of the hard starting is the coil. That V6 coil is different. So they are still trying with different coil to know which one coil would work. He even said he had gone to get a Mercedez Benz V6 coil, which he was yet to install while we were on the phone. I just couldnt make out time from office to go there and supervise what is going on in my engine bay. I have learnt my lesson Rabin. Never again will Rewire see my engine bay again. Never! Bunch of clowns! Nick, The starter actually has a relay. But what baffles me is when connected directly to the positive battery terminal head, the starter clanks/turns the engine without any clicking at all. But when connected back to the relay, it would click sometimes. But it dosent rub or drags. Its motor turns well whenever it turns. Which shows that the starter motor is good. Even the two brushes are still new. They have not worn. Well, the rewire told me on the phone that he had rebuild the solenoid and that it now clanks the engine well. Until I go there and see things myself. This week in my office is really tough. No chance at all. And we close very late, like 7pm. I have been to fix the problems with the car myself since it arrived to the extent that i even travelled with it sometime last week and cameback and the engine was doing well on the road in the whole journey. I was able to fix the hunting and stalling myself. Even the overheating. The black smoke reduced such that it no longer smell fuel frm the exhaust and the oil was no longer diluted by fuel frm the combustion chambers. Only because i could bring out the starter because of its position in the engine bay. I took to a Mechanic to help me bring it out and take it to a rewire. Thats where the problem started. I pray to come out of this and no more with this clowns that call themselves Rewires here In Nigeria. Whatever it is, I will do it myself. If I cant. I will figure out another way. The Two rewires i hav opened my bonnet to called the Throttle body "Injector" and called injectors "Nozzles", with all seriousness. Clowns! Ikenna. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ikenna Posted April 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2011 Yesterday in the evening, I got a call from the mechanic that the starter and hard starting issues have been fixed. So happy I was. I told him I would come the following morning, today, to pick the car. This morning, I rushed there with some cash to settle and drive my car home happily, after the car had stayed there for 5 days (Monday-Friday). I reached there and met the car so dirty. Anyway, they started the car and it started. No hard starting. The starter was clanking the engine well. They told me the starter wasnt the problem afterall, but was the key switch fiber, which they had replaced. I settled everyone, including the the person they collected the Amp module and coil. Half way home, I stopped to refuel. I tried to start the engine and the hard starting started again I didnt even bother to turn back to them after it managed to start. Enough was enough! I drove straight home. After some minutes, i tried it again and it started before i could know it. To cut the story short, its now starts well when the engine is cold and hard start seriously when its warm. Looking at the engine bay again, the Rewire messed up everthing there. I tried to pull out the no. 6 spark plug only to find out that the lead has broken and they forcefully put it in so that i wont know.. Pulling out the no 5 plug, i realised that the two sparks plug (No. 6 & 5) had no sign of spark on them or could be that more excess fuel now floods the combustion chambers that spark plugs couldnt ignite. They were stuffed/covered with thick black soots. I assumed the rest were in that same condition. I didnt bother to bring out the rest. I check the MAF sensor and was amazed with what i saw ( pic attached below - 2nd pic by the left). How it got to that condition baffled me. I wonder what kind of wrong connection did the rewire did that could melt/bend the 3 wires in MAF sensor and damaged the Amp module? It was then that it dawn on me that the cars wiring loom was gone. Only God knows what else was also affected with the wrong connection. The car seems to run well while in motion, but starting it is a very big problem/issue now. The engine even vibrates at idle, which i believe its because of failure of the lead and loss of sparks. While trying to start this evening, with the hard starting, thick terible black smoke came out from the Air filter air suck opening, with a teriible sound too in the engine bay. I tried to start it again and the starter started to click again That was when it was dawn on me that the wiring loom and attached electronics were gone. The car, to me, is no more drivable. I felt so sad. Very sad. Just to fix the starter, the car ended up grounded. I have only two options now: (1) buy complete 505 V6 wiring loom, with its instrument cluster, ECU's, MAF sensor and Amp module. (2) Buy and swap the engine with carbureted I4 engine, to be free of electrical issues, associated with EFI engines. I called the fellow that sold me the V6 torque tube and prop shaft this evening and he said the V6 wirng loom is very much available. In suplus . This should eliminate the crappy wiring connections done during the conversion and the wrong connections finally made by the Rewire here. It should also fix the black smoke thing since there wont be any cut and join wirng connection. The wiring loom would have all the connectors on them. The 2nd option is very tempting, but i dont want to give up on the ZN3J since the engine is so powerful that even with excessive fuel and the recent issue with no spark, it still runs as if the engine is brand new whenever the car is in motion. Pls all, What do you think i should do? Ikenna. pic of the MAF in good condition and pic when spoilt by Rewire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
horhayj505 Posted April 1, 2011 Report Share Posted April 1, 2011 pic of the MAF in good condition and pic when spoilt by Rewire wow ikenna the hot wire on the maf on the right is no good u need another maf these "rewires" are giving you more headaches and problems than u need Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geo Posted April 2, 2011 Report Share Posted April 2, 2011 wow ikenna the hot wire on the maf on the right is no good u need another maf these "rewires" are giving you more headaches and problems than u need Hi Ikenna, I am so sorry to hear that you are having so many problems by dishonest and terrible mechanics. I have also had bad luck here in the US with so-called mechanics who did more harm than good. I was too busy to fix a leaky turbo charger myself a few years ago and the mechanic that "fixed" it overboosted the engine and ended up cracking two pistons on me. After this, I rebuilt the engine myself, so I knew it was done right. If it was me, I would get a new wiring harness and replace it myself to put things back the way they were. I've never done this, so I don't know how much work it is, but I think that would be easier than switching to the 4 cylinder, which I don't think will make you happy since it doesn't have the power you want. I hope things start going better for you. -George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ikenna Posted April 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2011 Hi Ikenna, I am so sorry to hear that you are having so many problems by dishonest and terrible mechanics. I have also had bad luck here in the US with so-called mechanics who did more harm than good. I was too busy to fix a leaky turbo charger myself a few years ago and the mechanic that "fixed" it overboosted the engine and ended up cracking two pistons on me. After this, I rebuilt the engine myself, so I knew it was done right. If it was me, I would get a new wiring harness and replace it myself to put things back the way they were. I've never done this, so I don't know how much work it is, but I think that would be easier than switching to the 4 cylinder, which I don't think will make you happy since it doesn't have the power you want. I hope things start going better for you. -George Thanks Geo. Switching it back to I4 engine wouldnt even be that easy and cheap. The V6 manual tranny will have to go, likewise the wiring harness, to be replaced with standard 5sp manual trans and I4 fuel carbureted engine wiring harness. It might even affect the V6 torque tube and propeller shaft recently installed, since the ZN3J sits forward in the engine bay, because of the engine mount. It will be a very expensive conversion. Sticking with the ZN3J would be the best option. So, you are right. I wont be a happy man driving the car with I4 engine, because i have tested, experienced and enjoyed the power of ZN3J and wouldnt to lose all that. But I wouldnt mind to get a 4 cylinder 505 later as a second car, which is very cheap over here. But George, i have made a terrible discovery, which is the genesis of the problem with the car. I couldnt keep it any longer. So this morning, i called the man, the car dealer, my relation, that made the purchase. I narrated to him all i have been going through with the car since it arrived, which i have been keeping from him. And that finally, the car is no longer drivable. To cut the story short, he apologised for putting me in that mess since he was the one that assured me of the "good condition" of the car and made the purchase. He said he would look out for another V6 and buy for me. Then I should sell this one and balance him the money. He also said if i still want to keep this one and change the wiring harness, i should find out what and how much it would cost to do that and let him know. Left to me, since he had willingly said he would search for a standard 505 V6 and buy for me to replace this one, I would want to have a standard one without any form of conversion/modification, even if the body is not as in good condition with this one that has no rust whatsoever. At least, having one with factory spec is something good and right and was what i initially asked him to buy for me. But how long it will take its another issue. With all honesty, after the conversation with him this morning, i realised that he wasnt honest with me from day one. That car was converted here. Am not even sure he bought it from France like he told me. All those while he was telling me stories about the delay in getting the car into the company were all lies. That, I believe, was when they were doing the conversion here. That car never came from France. Instead of him to tell me he couldnt find V6, he lied to me, collected the money from me, bought a standard 505 and did the conversion. I actually knew something was fishy all those while, but i had no option than to waite and collect whatever he sent, as long as its V6. But I was wrong. What a mistake in trusting a relation or doing business with one! My brother has asked me to ignore the offer he gave me to replace this one with a standard 505 V6 and save and change all the car's wiring harness, which will take like 6 months or more to save enough to carryout such a project. But i can as well waite and see if he, my dishonest relation, would keep to his word. Am scared of spending money on that car again, even though i know replacing the wiring harness with a complete V6 one, without any cut and join, should fix all the electrical issues it has now, hopefully. Having an original standard 505 V6 is better than converted one, no matter how you want to look at it. Its better i modify myself, if needs be and knowing what you modified and change back to original if it doesnt work, than have one modified or converted by someone else/previous owner and wont know where to start diagnosing a problem since you woundnt know what and what in the car was modified/connected wrongly. Ikenna. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 I would be extremely reluctant to deal with the relative who sold you the car again -- in America, we have a saying: "Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me." I'm sure most other places have a similar saying. You didn't say exactly what his excuse was, but it was probably something to the effect that whoever sold him the car was dishonest, and he was taken advantage of along with you. This means he is either dishonest or incompetent (at least with regard to this situation), neither of which would make me want to rely on him for a different car. I mean, if he's offered to make good on the situation (i.e., put you closer to where you'd be if he had not deceived you), you should give him the opportunity, but you should not put yourself in a position where he can do you more harm... Just my opinion... Andre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ikenna Posted April 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 I would be extremely reluctant to deal with the relative who sold you the car again -- in America, we have a saying: "Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me." I'm sure most other places have a similar saying. You didn't say exactly what his excuse was, but it was probably something to the effect that whoever sold him the car was dishonest, and he was taken advantage of along with you. This means he is either dishonest or incompetent (at least with regard to this situation), neither of which would make me want to rely on him for a different car. I mean, if he's offered to make good on the situation (i.e., put you closer to where you'd be if he had not deceived you), you should give him the opportunity, but you should not put yourself in a position where he can do you more harm... Just my opinion... Andre Andre, its not just an opinoin, but you are absolutely right. Going back to him after such a deception dosent make sence. But what other option do i have. I cant afford to buy another car now, after i had spend all my savings in that car and still owing. I called & told him that I would forget about the car and start from scratch to save and purshase another, whenever i save enough. Knowing he put me in that condition, he apologised and said he would make it up to me by looking for a standard 505 V6 and buy for me. He said he would first call and ask me to come and confirm if that is what i want (standard 505 V6 in good condition) before paying for it. Then, whatever i get from the sale of the converted one, i should give him, he would accept. Well, since am not giving him a dime for another one, i have nothing to lose. Its better than waite and get a standard V6 that will be easier to fix, than to keep wasting money on a crappy converted car that seems unrepairable/unfixable. But i would only sell it until i see the one he promised. Otherwise, it will remain parked, as long as it takes Ikenna. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted April 4, 2011 Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 If he does find you another car overseas, I would request to see the advertisement before purchase, and ideally if you could communicate with the seller before purchase to ensure it's legit. I don't envy your situation, but with some determination you should be able to fix the car you have so you can at least use it. I agree a converted car is NOT the way to go for the next car, but at the same time, your current car is VERY nice, and if you can use it to improve your mechanical skills - owning a proper V6 car in the future will be EASY to maintain so you never have to go to a rewire again! BTW - what was the resolution of the fuel injectors? Did you ever get to put in some that had a nice mist of a spray pattern? Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ikenna Posted April 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 If he does find you another car overseas, I would request to see the advertisement before purchase, and ideally if you could communicate with the seller before purchase to ensure it's legit. I don't envy your situation, but with some determination you should be able to fix the car you have so you can at least use it. I agree a converted car is NOT the way to go for the next car, but at the same time, your current car is VERY nice, and if you can use it to improve your mechanical skills - owning a proper V6 car in the future will be EASY to maintain so you never have to go to a rewire again! BTW - what was the resolution of the fuel injectors? Did you ever get to put in some that had a nice mist of a spray pattern? Rabin The point is, he is the one now to make the purchase with his money, not mine. All i need to do is to confirm if actually is what i want before he makes the purchase and hand the car over to me. He knew he cheated me that was why he "offered" to buy another one without my asking, to correct the " MISTAKE" he claimed he made. Good 505 in good condition here cost N500,000.00. But he collected N800,0000.00, claiming that the one he found was than in good condition, which was the reason why it was very expensive. Let me put it in another way, the value of the N800,000. is like buying the car $10,000. (Fifteen thousand dollars). Now you will understand why i cant keep repairing a car i bought with such amount. Its so painful. I even took a loan to complete the money because i wanted one in good condition, in as much as i know it shouldnt cost up to that. In fact, he saw that i was desperate to have 505 V6 and took that undue advantage to dupe me, by buying a I4 505 and had the engine swapped with V6, which unfortunately was poorly done. Everyone was blaming me for buying 20+ yr old car with such amount that can buy Toyota camry 2001 model for me in good condition. But i know what i want, its just that i was unfortunate to trust a relative! Rabin, about the injectors , there are things you need to understand about the car. No. 1, the fuel pumps is positive is wired to key switch wiring connector instead of relay. so they both runs continuously as soon as ignition is on. The wiring diagram shows that fuel pumps and the 6 injectors are connected to one of the 3 relays above the fuse box. But since the fuel pump isnt connected to the relay, i doubt if the injectors are also connected to the relay as well. Am not sure the injectors are getting enough power to run or been overpowered, whichever is the case. There is no way all the 6 injectors would have the same bad spray pattern. All of them. They all spray in the same poor pattern. Dosent that tell something is wrong with the connections? The only, to me, that engine will run well is to change the loom complete or convert the car back to I4 which is not an option to me. I can only consider that if only when i have gotten the V6. If i have enough, i will pay and keep the car, to be converted later to I4 engine and keep the ZN3J in it as a spare for the standard V6. The body opf the car is so good that it will be painfull to see it go. I just have to waite and see,with prayers as well. Ikenna. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted April 5, 2011 Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 Wow.... The price you paid does indeed put it in perspective! You should have gotten a MINT / NEW V6 for that price! As for the injectors - it is very likely that all the injectores are bad. They all see the same amoun of fuel, they have the same life span, and they are used exactly the same way. Usually they will act up one at a time, but it doesn't make sense to wait for each injector to act up - so when one goes the proper thing is to address all 6. If you wait long enough - all 6 will be bad. All it really takes is to have unfiltered / poorly filtered fuel and it'll wreck all 6 right away. If they was too much pressure - the mist would still be there. If there was not enough pressure - it would run lean - not rich. If pressure is too high - that would indicate the FPR. Running the fuel pumps without the relay is functionally OK - just not a good idea if the car is in an accident. The relay ensures the pump only runs when the engine is running. So if the engine starts and runs - it's still very likely that you need to address the injectors to make sure they spray OK first. If pressure is fine, and it's not misting - it could easily cause the black smoke since that indicates unburnt fuel. I hate suggesting more work after seeing the price - but the issue still remains. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ikenna Posted April 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2011 Am begining to suspect the Pick up(CKP) as the cause of the low, loss of spark and hard starting when the engine is warm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ikenna Posted April 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2011 I had the CKP replaced with 605 type. The engine would start and run fine for the first 10 mins. But soon as it warms, it wouldnt start. I waited for 2 or 3 hours and tried again. It started. I replaced/put back the original one the car came with (aluminium type) and took the car for a test drive. The car was running like new, as if it had no ignition & injection problem, even with the damaged MAF. I drove back home, allowed it to idle for sometime & off the engine. I tried to start it again, but it wouldnt start(serious hard starting). Tried with another coil, it was still doing the same. I only wanted to see if i can fix this hard starting problem and be using it, while waiting for the another promised "Standard" 505 V6. I wouldnt mind to continue to use it with the black smoke thing. But with the hard starting issue, its very serious. Who knows if the Ignition or Injection ECU has become faulty, due to wrong connection. Ikenna Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ikenna Posted April 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2011 Today in the afternoon, I pulled out the spark plugs and properly gapped them. I removed the Distributor cap and rotor. Both looked ok, as you can see in the pics attached. I sand paperred them and put them back. That ruled out the distributor and rotor as the loss of spark, that causes hard starting as soon as the engine warms and is switched off. Its becoming obvious that the cause of the hard starting would be any of these three: The Ignition ECU, Amplifier Module or Wrong connection on Amplifier Module wiring connector. Like I noted in my earlier post, I have lost interest in this car. Just want to improve my mechanical skills with the car's issues, while waiting for another. In fact, the fuel has started washing down the cylinders and diluting engine oil in the sump sriously again, which i fixed before and it stopped, before the ill-fated day it to the mechanic and rewire to fix my starter for me, just because i didnt have the tool to bring it out myself. It could be the damaged MAF or the sparks issue. I wouldnt want to keep the car anymore, I mean everything in the engine bay. Even if I will eventually keep the car, that engine will have to go, cos the frequent washing down of cylinders and diluting of Oil by fuel, must have worn the rings, the bearings in the crankcase and the crankshaft itself. Ikenna. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ikenna Posted April 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2011 Below are the pics of the distributor and rotor You can watch the video of the car i made this afternoon via the link below. And hey! Wonder how I sound that way? Long story. But some say they like it, the female folks. Well, for me, ... Ikenna. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ikenna Posted April 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2011 Below are the pics of the distributor and rotor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted April 17, 2011 Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 Both looked ok, as you can see in the pics attached. I sand paperred them and put them back. That ruled out the distributor and rotor as the loss of spark, that causes hard starting as soon as the engine warms and is switched off. Its becoming obvious that the cause of the hard starting would be any of these three: The Ignition ECU, Amplifier Module or Wrong connection on Amplifier Module wiring connector. In fact, the fuel has started washing down the cylinders and diluting engine oil in the sump sriously again, which i fixed before and it stopped, before the ill-fated day it to the mechanic and rewire to fix my starter for me, just because i didnt have the tool to bring it out myself. Ikenna. Hi Ikenna, As screwed up as your wiring harness is, I don't think any of the components are causing the issues as the car does eventually start and run. When one of the electronic components go - the car won't run at all. Hard starting and the return of fuel in the oil means you're car is flooding, and that is the reason it's hard to start. The plugs are getting wet with fuel, which makes it very hard to start. Also the distributor cap is VERY dirty inside. It should be exceptionally clean inside as spark can jump from one pin to another if there's enough carbon inside the cap. So any dirt or debris can cause of issues, but they'll mostly be miss fires. It could cause a hard start as well, but it would still show up as running rough. We still don't know what the fuel pressure is at the rail, if the injectors have decent spray patterns, or if they even hold fuel without leaking. If the injectors leak when the engine is off, then residual pressure in the system causes fuel to leak out the injectors with the engine off, which will definitely dilute your oil quite quickly. So I'm still quite sure the fuel system is at fault here, or at a minimum your MAF is so screwed up that it's causing an excess of fuel. If I had to bet - I'd bet on the injectors being at fault. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ikenna Posted April 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2011 Hi Ikenna, As screwed up as your wiring harness is, I don't think any of the components are causing the issues as the car does eventually start and run. When one of the electronic components go - the car won't run at all. Hard starting and the return of fuel in the oil means you're car is flooding, and that is the reason it's hard to start. The plugs are getting wet with fuel, which makes it very hard to start. Also the distributor cap is VERY dirty inside. It should be exceptionally clean inside as spark can jump from one pin to another if there's enough carbon inside the cap. So any dirt or debris can cause of issues, but they'll mostly be miss fires. It could cause a hard start as well, but it would still show up as running rough. We still don't know what the fuel pressure is at the rail, if the injectors have decent spray patterns, or if they even hold fuel without leaking. If the injectors leak when the engine is off, then residual pressure in the system causes fuel to leak out the injectors with the engine off, which will definitely dilute your oil quite quickly. So I'm still quite sure the fuel system is at fault here, or at a minimum your MAF is so screwed up that it's causing an excess of fuel. If I had to bet - I'd bet on the injectors being at fault. Rabin Today, in the evening, around 6pm, on my way back from work, the slave cylinder started failing. At a Point, it got so bad that i have to remain in the 3rd gear to get home, which wouldnt pull out of the gear. As if that was not enough, the car started jerking seriously (serious sign of loss of spark). While trying to pull out the gear stick from gear 3 to manage and get the car home with the jerking and slave cylinder failure, the car seriously jerked and stalled. I tried to start it (even if it would hard start), but it wouldnt start. I waited for some minutes for Amplifier module/or whatever that is causing hard starting to cool off, to enable the car to start, which was what it has been doing since it came back from the rewire that messed the whole wiring. I tried again. Engine was cranking but no start. Hmm! To cut the story short, I had the car towed to house around 8pm. Got home after some hours, tried to start the car, still, it wouldnt start. If the problem is not the Amp. Module, then Ignition ECU must have been fried! Rabin, Yes, Injectors have to go. But the wiring issues with the car is getting out of hand. Speaking with a Rewire on my phone about the car electrical issues, he suggested that I modify the ZN3J to be powered by carburetor, i.e., he will remove and install a matching carburettor Intake Manifold, to eliminates EFI electrical issues. He also suggested removing the loom and replacing a modified loom, adjustable AFM and ECU(s). Am faced with various options: park the car & waite for another "promised" standard 505 V6; remove Injectors and install Carburetor (Maybe the 604 Intake manifold); Remove ZN3J and put XN1 engine( Carburetor engine) in the car; change the complete loom with another 505 V6 loom; transplant and modify loom with a different AFM and ECU(s) or finally; keep spending fortune to fix the car. Ikenna. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N9TE Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 You absolutely have to change out that distributor cap. That's the worst one I've ever seen I've seen modern Toyotas, 505s and 405s with better looking caps fail to start or suffer bad drivability problems. It's cheap and needs to happen. I'm very curious to see exactly what difference it will make. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ikenna Posted April 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 Two nights ago, 19/04/2011, I checked the CPK sensor, found it loosed on the bell housing (not tight). I pulled it out, put in the spare one, clanked the engine, it wouldnt start. I put back the original one and went to bed, very disappointed. I woke up the next morning, 20/04/2011. I pulled out the Distributor cap, Amp module and coil. I checked the last two, but didnt see anything odd with them. I put them back. I then cleaned, thoroughly, with fuel, the distributor cap, as you can see in the pics attached. I readjusted the spring that holds the brush that touches rotor. I put back the distributor cap, clanked the engine and WOORAH!! The engine was running before I knew it, at one turn of the engine. How gratified/very happy I was for been able to fix an issue like this without spending a dime. Not just that, it feels good for one to diagnose and fix his car that he would have spend fortune at auto workshop, that is, if they would be able to fix it. Anyway, the black smoke was still there while the engine was running. Also, it was still hard starting when engine warms. So i decided to try the old Amp module the rewire spoilt, to see if actually it was spoilt, and to see if it would stop the hard starting. I swithced the module, clanked the engine, but the engine wouldnt start. So, i switched back the module with the one that starts car, at least, clanked the engine, the engine didnt start WHAT THE HELL IS WRONG WITH THIS CAR?? I tried several times, no starting. In serious anger, i left the car there and left for work. Came back from work. Around 8pm, i went into work again, with torch light, with the car. I pulled out the distributor cap again, checked but didnt see anthing odd, i put it back. Tried with another coil, no starting. Checked the Amp Module and saw the culprit One of the wires on the connector was broken internally, but it was still covered with the rubber coating, which would be very difficult to notice. Thank God I still have the wiring connector of the old Amp module I replaced. I tranfered the wirings to it, plugged it in the module, clanked the engine, it started. Hmm! How annoying and stressful diagnosing electrical issues can be! Well, its now obvious, Like Rabin said, the cause of the hard starting is the flooding of the combustion chambers with fuel by leaking Injectors, and possibly the faulty MAF too, which stops spark plugs from igniting. They are now the next components to be replaced, starting with the Injectors. Unfortunately, you cant find new Injectors in Nigerian auto part shops. Only the used ones. And the only way to find out if they are in good condition, is by attaching them on fuel rail and check their spray pattern or start the engine and cheeck if any difference from the exhaust. Since, am yet to decide if am keeping the car or not, i will have to carryout the Injectors and MAF replacements gradually. Both components are quite expensive here in our own currency. Am quite happy that am learning a lot about the EFI engine and how it works. Though, a costly process. It just happens not to be the right time.It would have been a less headache if i have another car, which i can be using while fixing this one, which has turn into a project. Ikenna. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ikenna Posted April 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2011 I took this pictures 2 days ago, Easter Sunday (24/04/2011), beside Holy Trinity Catholic Church Maitama, Abuja, Nigeria, after 9.45am Mass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick@nite Posted April 26, 2011 Report Share Posted April 26, 2011 Great to hear your getting somewhere. I would change the MAF first then go for injectors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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