N9TE

On overboost the boost gauge will go into the red and you'll get fuel cut. In addition to my blown headgasket, I'm suffering from the same condition as you. I disconnected the electrovalve and it's boosting much like a N9TE. It's derivable now, but still will overboost if I floor it under load. It only overboosted a couple of times for only a few seconds total. Whether or not that caused the blown headgasket - we'll never know. I'm fairly certain that the turbo needs to be redone. That will get done when I do the HG.

OK. Who's got the guts to actually order something.

What was the final word on this Rabin? Were they open to the powerhouse better known as the N9T

Rob, that would be Frank Cerrone, no? Some kid had it before my seller rescued it from the junkyard. He beat it without mercy. Funny you should mention Serfan. I have two motors I bought from him 3 years ago when August, John, Kevin and a bunch of us went down to Olympia. I'd be pulling one of those heads. I'd like to have everything ready to go. Yup, I might as well do the turbo while I'm down there. Didn't Nick do the ARP bolts on his last head? He does these things in an afternoon. It'll take me weeks. Fasteners are another story. The whole re-torque garbage is because of the TTY bolts. And from everything I've learned, TTY bolts are not reuseable.

OK. So I've been chasing down what I thought was a coolant leak for quite some time. Ever since I re-did the hoses. Funny thing was, the system always held pressure. I could go back two days after it last ran and it would still have pressure in there. If there was a compromised hose, surely those conditions wouldn't exist. Anyway, I've been taking it to work for the last three weeks and all is fine. But Friday the low coolant light goes on. Not overheating and I'm a mile away from home, so I just go home. Start it Saturday and it runs rough - like a plug is fouled. Warmed it up and took it on my standard 'test leg' (about 4 miles, bring it home and park it. I go to move it 5 minutes later and whooosh - tons of white smoke. Repeated test and got the same results. Come to think of it - the cooling system gets really pressurized. Blowby making its way into the cooling system? I've put about 5000 miles on it and never overheated it. I'm pretty damn disgusted as this car was sold to me with all the major work 'done'. To be exact... First owner was a mechanic specializing in Peugeots 25,000 miles on the NEW CLUTCH 30,000 miles on the REBUILT THE ENGINE (new head, new turbo...) About $6,000 work. Whatever. I'm in for a head job. I'm not going to scrimp on this. I'm sure a number of you guys have wish lists when this time comes for you. What would you focus on? Specifically: Who do you trust to weld it - Anybody besides Ericsson? I've got an OEM HG - but should I use the Corteco? ARP Bolts or studs? And most importantly - retorque. Book says to do it. Thoughts? Fun days!

Isn't the whole point of the T3/T4 hybrid focusing on the intake side? I mean going at the exhaust with out integrated wastegate seems a little unconventional. I live close to Alamo (http://www.alamoturbochargers.com/index.html) and was just going to go down there with extra turbo in hand and seeing what could be done. If it's been done, they've seen it.

Ya, mine was silver too. Maybe that's stock? Anyway, painting it the same color as the body was a no brainer. Didn't even think about it. I did the same thing with the grill/lion. I did mine in silver leaf. Then clearcoated it. Came out barely acceptable. Didn't look ghetto. PAIN IN THE ASS! All DIY efforts are fraught with the danger of screwing it up. I'm curious how you plan to do it. The factory, in fact all carmakers, use a process called "vacuum metalization". It's how they 'chrome' plastic. It's a rather hard thing to do on a small scale. There are only a few places that can do it.

Are you talking about that piece between the front bumper and the grill? If so, I painted my the same as the body and spoiler. No need what-so-ever to paint it another color. I don't think I have any pictures of the blue car before I sold it to Pariac.

I'd be interested in hearing this as well. Good work on the car Rob. Someone's got to give André a run for the money!

The cables are 25 years old. Unless the car was a museum car they'll need replacing. (probably) Anyway, A couple of years ago I did the rear brakes completely on Paraic's 86 turbo and it only totaled some $400. Calipers, cables. I replaced everything but rotors. You need to find a mechanic who doesn't see your car as an opportunity to fund his kid's college or something.

87 turbo ABS cars too. I got one. Don't know about the V6.

Love the new forum software. Much more user friendly. I had a national hosting service screw me (Hostway). They moved some 1500 servers in Florida some 1000 miles and mine ended up in a swamp somewhere. The installed a fresh copy of RedHat on it and was surprised that I wasn't happy. Bottom line is they got more lawyers that you do so their SLAs don't mean squat. Your best best is to take charge of your own backups, expect failure, be prepared and when you can afford it, just pay for bandwidth..

You know, I just re-read over this entire thread. André, you're doing some good work. I always look at it as "moving time backwards". With many of the systems you've touched, your goal is to bring them back to 1986 (or whatever was year one). You've done that in many cases! So when you're driving your car and it's not driving as nice as your 'new' car, think of how many systems are in your car working together making your driving experience what it is. Then think of all the things André has done and you haven't. And he's nowhere near done. But, as more and more systems move into the done column, the car as a whole moves 'back in time'. Good luck in getting to 1986!

Welcome here. My #1 guy for parts is in Dallas. There is a small but strong French car contingent in TX. Of course, most people accept the fact that you have to drive a long way to get the one you want. Just the way it is nowdays. Good luck on your search. Do you have one specific type in mind?

While it's sad that you're leaving the fold, I hope it isn't because of the leak in the hose. That hose is entirely replaceable for a DIY owner. No special tools or skills. If it is just time to move on regardless, your city/town would help someone contemplating taking over where you left off. Looks like a decent car there.

Stay away from synthetics. It is too viscous. The shearing that's so bad for engines actually is what the BA/10-5 requires. Just use a good mineral based 10w40. That is the best option.

You'll also notice that almost all 505s suffer from inadequate voltage to run the washer pump motor. If you look at your blue turbo, you'll notice that I wired the factory outout leads to a separate relay pulling power (fused) off the battery. From the stock leads you get about 11 volts after it makes it's way through the dash stalk, etc. The pump only functions at 12. Look how I did it on that car and duplicate on your V6. I just did that to my 89 turbo and like your blue car, it works perfectly. No way around doing this.

Tell him, "I'll give you $50 for the parts, $75 if you remove them carefully." It can take 15 mins if you hack. More like 90 if you're careful. I don't know much about series I cars, but that would be about right for a series II car.

Rabin's right. The vented rotors (all aftermarket) were for the non-abs equipped cars. The only ABS rotors are (were) only available from Peugeot as far as I know. Hope I'm wrong, bit I've looked over the Centric line.

Are these rotors for an ABS car? Weren't most 88 STXs ABS equipped?

I've heard that the front fenders (wings for UK guys) are different to go with the Euro bumpers. On your blue car, I refurbished the bumper and had the bumper valence and spoiler painted. If that's aesthetically OK, such parts would be an easy bolt-on affair. Euro bumpers are something I've never seen done on this side of the pond.

I has a set os a/d/s Power Plate speakers in my AMC Spirit hatchback in the 80's as well. Powered by a nice amp, those were the best I've ever had. Just love those! I went looking a few years ago for a/d/s stuff and couldn't find them. You found them new? Where? Gonna sound nice!

So if he pays for it, it is here on a temporary basis? I'm sure he's legit (lawyer and all). I just don't know how he does it. If I couldn't get a C6 or C5, I'd get a 508. But with the state of affairs at PSA looks more like a pipe dream than ever. I should just get a 400I or Mondial. :-)

What do you think?!