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Hi All,

I have an opportunity to get a low miles (45k) XD3T engine that is sitting on ice an hour away from me. I'm planning to drop it in my 1982 Peugeot 604 BA10/5.

Before I do that, I've been exploring some tuning that I could possibly do. Here's kind of my general plan:
1. Get an Exhaust gas Temp sensor and Boost Gauge
2. Find an XD2 (non turbo) Intake Manifold
3. Cut and weld shut the Exhaust Gas Recirculator valve opening on the exhaust manifold
4. Add a intercooler and route it from the turbo to the XD2 intake (better clearances than XD2S which has like 2 inches of room between it and the intake)
5. Turn up boost with boost controller from 8 psi to 12-15 psi
6. Turn up fuel on injector pump (easy as turning a screw)
7. ????
8. 150 HP easy!

I don't know if I will be able to shoe-horn an intercooler in there with the A/C and everything, but if I swap in a different air filter assembly I'm hoping that would free up enough space to run intake hosing by. This may just not be possible tho. I'm curious how the XD3TE's fit an intercooler in - that may be the way to go too! XD2s manifolds would just be easier to find in the US.

Would love to hear people's thoughts!

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Hi Wade,

You might want to give a read through my wagon build thread:  Yes I suck and it’s terribly old with no updates, BUT(!) - I still have everything for the car plus more, still waiting.

I personally would advise against “just turning” the screw as it adds base fuel not boost referenced fuel.  There’s also the boost pin and the regulator mod - but really the best way is to send the pump into Performance Diesel and have Giles tune it.

I researched the crap out of modifying them pulling from IDI VW as well as IDI MB mods guys were doing.

Also - the turbo housing should be clockable, so you should be able to rotate the compressor away from the I take inlet.  The xd3te intake has the intercooler in a similar spot as the N9TE, but the intake inlet points up.

Rabin

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All great things to know! Once I get my hands on the engine I'll be able to check things out better in person. Figure I'd port out the intake and exhaust ports a little bit too while I am at it. Where can I find this Wagon Build thread?

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Doing a top mount would be easiest, but I was looking at clocking the compressor housing so it was pointing down, then running a vertical IC on the passenger side to keep plumbing short.  It’d need ducted cold air, but you wouldn’t need to figure out how to get it in front of the AC condenser that way.

I don’t think I’ve mentioned it, but I’ve also got an ‘86 505s TD 5sp Sedan.  I bought it as a parts car for the wagon (ie: 5sp wagon), but the immediate plan is to get the sedan running and possibly plate it for a summer DD.  Ordered a new fuel filter for the new filter head I had, and will swap that in to see if that fixes my no start.  If it does - She gets a quick once over to replace all fluids, and then plates.

Rabin

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Yeah that's a good idea. If I get rid of that big foam cylinder air filter that will buy me some real estate. Still going to be tight as hell in there tho! I'm hesitant to do any major surgery on the 604 too as I'd like to keep the body as original as possible..

Do you have an idea of how you'd duct in the cold air?
Another idea I had yesterday was setting up a air to water intercooler. If the sizing works out, it would allow me to run water lines in a similar fashion as the oil cooler lines. Then I could mount a heat exchanger on the other side of the body below the radiator, right next to the oil cooler! Assuming all that fits, I could swap in a cone-type air filter that takes up less space, and then hopefully be able to put an air-to-water IC anywhere I can fit it..

Thoughts? I'm going to consult some local fabricators on this, as I don't know how big the IC and heat exchangers will need to be to support 15 psi of boost.

Wade

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Thank you! I'll keep that in mind. I know the N9T** 505s had a special grill and the 505 hood is a obviously gonna be a bit different, so there's a few unknowns there, but the top mount intercooler would be a nice "true to Peugeot" way to go. Where are you located? I'm in Portland, OR. 

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I’m on the east coast, VA. I think we’ve talked on the FB group, you sold me some parts awhile back. The car is a turbo wagon I found in a local yard. I’ve been picking some parts off of for various members.

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Update on my scheming:

https://www.frozenboost.com/air_water-ic/small-liquid_air-intercooler-p-210.html

I found this water to air intercooler. It's 11x9x3.5" in size, which is quite compact - I bet I could squeeze that in if I take out the air filter!. It says it's rated up to 450 CFM / 350 HP. I ran the XD3T stats thru a CFM calculator that gave me about 420 CFM max for the 2498 cc with a volumetric efficiency of 2.0. Another rule of thumb is to multiply the HP by 2.5. If I do that I get 375 CFM. So it looks like this intercooler would be big enough for the XD3T with 15 psi of boost and making 150 HP.

Happy to hear if anyone else has opinions or thoughts on that. As far as heat exchangers go, their standard option for the intercooler I'm looking at is a 19 row 10.75x11x2" radiator. I'm wondering if I could maybe get away with their next size smaller which is a 13 row 7.5x11.5x2 or even the next size down 10 row 5.75x11.5x2 - which would fit very nicely under the bumper at that size!

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OK! After some more measuring I think I found the solution that FrozenBoost would formally approve of:
I can mount the heat exchanger they offer specifically for the water to air intercooler that is a 30-row, 10x13x2 radiator right in front of the radiator on the drivers side. If I remove the old 12" A/C fan and replace it with a 10", that would give me plenty of room. Then its just a matter of shoe-horning the intercooler in anywhere, which I have plenty of space to make that happen and routing the intake hoses. I think we've got a winner.

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I looked at doing the very same thing - right down to the frozenboost intercoolers!

Where I started to get second thoughts and eventually went back to figuring out an air to air solution was (And especially with diesels) - I really like adhering to the KISS principle:  Keep It Simple Stupid.

The electric coolant pump is what finally did me in - by the time I figured out what would should be the best pump for the job (Bosch Motorsport pump at the time), the idea was well over $1000cdn and the complexity of an electric pump and another cooling system just had me rethink and return to air to air.  Placing and air to air, and then figuring out ducting so one side had high pressure air and low pressure on the other side seemed like a better more simple way to go.

I do hope this is the right system for you, and am very interested to see if it is something you do - but for my pesos I figured if I’m adding complexity a variable geometry turbo with a standalone controller would have a better power and drive ability return for the $$$ spent.  :)

Rabin

 

 

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Well that price just makes it a no brainer, but just know that pump might not cut it.  

  • Designed with a minimum 1500-hour service life in mind, these pumps come with a 3 year warranty direct from Rule/ITT. However, use with high temperature water and/or antifreeze/coolant may void this warranty.

When I researched it years ago that was the big negative - finding an electric coolant pump that would have OE longevity was the problem, but there’s LOTS of OE electric water pump options now.  
 

Hopefully there’s a way to have it only turn on when needed, but another tip I remember was that it’s nice to have a manual override for max cooling when needed.

Rabin

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They offer this OE Bosch air to water intercooler pump https://www.frozenboost.com/liquid-air-adapter/water-to-air-pump-0392022002-p-1001.html?osCsid=tlge2fucudjhiid1m706m21b37  Apparently it only draws 2-3 Amps, which isn't bad. From what I've read they usually just run continuously when the engine is on (simplest way for me would be to wire it into the shutoff solenoid circuit, but I maybe could wire in a tach relay and use the tachometer output on the xd3t ve pump to turn it only only when engine is spinning?). I suppose setting up a thermostat would also be an option too, but if it only draws 3 A I'm not too worried about it. It's +$70 to upgrade to this pump, so it'd bring the total to around $350. I think I'm gonna go this direction, I'll keep every apprised!

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