Jayden M Posted February 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2021 Hey about that switch, if its completely disconnected could that keep the car from running? The car doesnt want to stay running anymore, just starts and dies (occasionally it will catch and stay running indefinitely) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted February 4, 2021 Report Share Posted February 4, 2021 It’s not ideal since that’s how it knows it’s at idle.  When it’s fixed the screw should be adjusted so it just closes the switch but doesn’t put any pressure on it, make sure it’s adjusted properly and isn’t using the switch like a throttle stop!  You could connect the wires and see if it idles any better, but that would be a temp test since you wouldn’t want to rev it with the contacts closed. The TPS adjustment is done on the part with three wires, and I HIGHLY recommend ensuring that you set the timing, idle speed, and the TPS adjustment. Was the tank cleaned and did it have fresh fuel? Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted February 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2021 The car runs super good when it stays running, its just hard to get it to do that, and I semi cleaned the tank: Put in new gas, flushed it out, put in (current) new 93 gas, and I was not refering to throttle position sensor, but a microswitch above injector 1 ish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted February 4, 2021 Report Share Posted February 4, 2021 Micro switch tells ecu when the car the throttle is at rest, so bare the wires and connect them to see if that helps it idle. TPS adjustment is still needed, as is setting timing and idle once you get it to idle nice.  If the wire is ripped right out of the micro switch you’ll need a replacement off one of the parts cars.  Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted February 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2021 alright Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted February 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2021 well its not the TPS adjustment :D, any ideas what else makes it randomly shut off? (Usually within the first 15 seconds of it starting) If I touch the throttle even the slightest it will die... and wont start if foot is on the throttle any. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted February 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2021 Well I'v tracked the issue down to the main 4 injectors are not getting power anymore.. Tried manually holding down the air meter plate with a screwdriver, but still no power... Is there perhaps a relay that controls the injectors, if so where is it located? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted February 7, 2021 Report Share Posted February 7, 2021 There should be a group of 3 or 4 relays up by the abs reservoir.  Check connections there as it’s likely poor connection rather than a faulty relay. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted February 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2021 Is it one of the Bosch ones or one of the Valvar type 23's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted February 12, 2021 Report Share Posted February 12, 2021 The relays are all in a group, and will be valeo or bosch or pretty much any brand really. You'll need to figure out function of each however, but cleaning and ensuring good connections of all is a good idea. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted February 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2021 Thanks rabin, I'v found the relays to be good, and found the issue is within the hornets nest of bulk connectors a bit left of the relays.... yikes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted February 14, 2021 Report Share Posted February 14, 2021 I tried getting these to play when attached but had no luck, so I edited them into a single video and uploaded to You Tube. I'm still looking for the street racing vids, but I now remember that these weren't on the old forum site, these were in the Peugeot-L archives when Yahoo closed down so I gotta see if I can find them still. Regardless - this could be why Blackie needs a diff... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted February 14, 2021 Report Share Posted February 14, 2021 A good donut never hurt anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted February 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2021 yessss!! power!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted February 14, 2021 Report Share Posted February 14, 2021  13 hours ago, Goce said: A good donut never hurt anything. Agreed!  If everything is in good shape doing donuts like this should be fine.  Was mostly tongue in cheek since Jayden is replacing the diff.  I have a bit too much mechanical and tire sympathy to do donuts on dry pavement, but love a good drift or power slide on any surface, but especially loose / slippy surfaces. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted February 14, 2021 Report Share Posted February 14, 2021 When i was younger i had lots of mechanical and tire sympathy but then in one month i had two car crashes, none of them my fault but the cars that i so much cared for become scrap. So overnight i decided life is too short for sympathy, i'll drive it like is meant to be driven. About donuts, 4WD cars do them better, i've embarrassed couple of BMW M cars doing donuts with my silver M16x4. That thing was a bit underpowered to start a donut on dry pavement i had to clutch kick it with full throttle, but once it it starts spinning it was instant smoke screen. Unfortunately at that time there was no smartphones for others to videotape it. I've found this video of a 405 doing a donut and wanted to share it, its short but you can get the sense of the dynamics of those cars and the sound they make at high rpm and under load.  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted February 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2021 Warm day today, went out, blackies differential is no problem, come out easy... like real easy. WHITIE ON THE OTHER HAND....... Put impact gun on the mount bolts for the diff... *put on the 700 torque setting for it* and it would not spin the bolts.... This is rediculous... stuff like this that should be simple, but isnt has made me realize how bad off I have it on these cars from sitting so long.... hopefully once I get them on the road maintenance wont be this bad... because I don't think its worth it if its going to constantly be this bad. looking at drilling out the mount bolts. does anyone have a spare differential (torsen diff) ? EDIT: on the plus side I found the electrical issue with this car, and the engine is running again (not smooth anymore.. very rough ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted February 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2021 MAJOR PROGRESS Well.... my spare 505T's diff is out finally!!!.. I just drilled 8 holes in the diff mount effectively cutting it in half, and after getting the diff out, I drilled into the mounting bolts to get bottom half of the bracket off - in doing so there is a minor crack on the diff on the outside edge of the loop that goes around the bolt, its super stiff and strong so I think its fine. Also, tracked down the engine running on 3 cylinders due to cylinder 2 not doing hardly anything. Seems to be fuel related. Power is getting to the injector, so I sent the injector off to a cleaning service again. Hope thats all is wrong next up is drilling the lug nuts off blackie... yay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted February 19, 2021 Report Share Posted February 19, 2021 You should do a compression test on #2 as well. Â Checking valve lash is also a good thing. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted February 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2021 When disabling the ignition - just by sound the compression is extreeeemely even across all 4, plus i dont have a compression test kit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted February 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2021 Was just a bad spark plug - Blackie is running on all 4 again! (though more than just 1 new plug is probably ideal) Still a problem: After about 10 seconds of running, the idle starts to slowly go down, and eventually to low it dies. (If using throttle it wont die) Any ideas also, rev counter is broken... any common issues with that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted February 23, 2021 Report Share Posted February 23, 2021 The throttlebody has an idle adjustment screw that's accessible via the hole in the plastic throttle cam. You might need to clean the throttle body as well as all the passages in case the idle circuit is gunked up. Usually you need to do timing, then idle, then TPS adjusment, then revisit them until they're bang on for it to run right. Quick somewhat reliable test for cracked heads is to check for bubbles and pressure build up in the coolant reservoir - if that's not happening then all should be good! Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted February 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2021 No bubbles in the coolant reservoir, however If I open it after it warmsup there isnt a 'poof' sound as if it was pressurized when I take the cap off. Head is probably find *thank god* Considering it was running just fine a few weeks ago, I feel like timing and TPS adjustment should be fine where it is, most likely is just gunk buildup being moved around. Perhaps some carb cleaner could help  thanks Bean. Rev counter dont work, but when turning the idle screw a lot - I found the rpm doesnt seem to change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted February 23, 2021 Report Share Posted February 23, 2021 Check the fuses and the wires at the ignition coil, you are missing power or signal for the rev counter to work, the gauges himself rarely fail, also have you check for vacuum leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted February 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2021 After the engine warmed up it would idle, will see how it is when its cold tommorrow - while warming up it would misfire a bit, and after turning it off there was 2-3 drops of oil (might have been me when I checked the level) For the rev counter - its not completely broken it acts like for every 100 RPM the engine is the needle moves 10, so it said it was idling at 100 RPM ish lol. and Redlines at around 700 ha Weird how this was the last car I was going to fix - yet it seems like the first to be fixed now though... I may have cried seeing it run right after so long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.