Jayden M Posted November 26, 2020 Report Share Posted November 26, 2020 This is the car that supposedly was in some videos on this site? Street Races, Donuts, and whatnot? Not sure about that was only 2 years old, but its what i'v heard. The interior on the car is superb even though there is a small water leak... any common places for rain water leaking into 505's? - 89 505 Turbo Automatic A year ago I went out to see if this car had compression, and 2 of the cylinders did not. Today I checked again, and all of a sudden all 4 cylinders are compressing, so its possible this car can get on the road soon. So, today I hooked up my test battery, did an oil change, and put in some gasoline in the tank. Surprisingly the car started right up! Unfortunately this car dies after just a few seconds, very similarly to my burgundy 505 STI XN6 project. My thoughts is related to lack of fuel, either 1 or more injectors are not firing, but replacing the fuel filter & fuel pump couldnt hurt. The pump sounds a little odd, but who knows maybe its fine. Any thoughts? it feels so close to running Its also got golden peugeot emblems and golden 'peugeot' '505 turbo' words, which makes it look goood if it wasn't rusted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted November 26, 2020 Report Share Posted November 26, 2020 Joe Grubbs on Peugeot of North America knows the car well, ask him for advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted November 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2020 Anyone know what the fuel pressure PSI/Bar should be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted November 28, 2020 Report Share Posted November 28, 2020 I'm not that familiar with those cars but to find the fuel pressure, just read the numbers from the fuel pressure regulator and google them it will show, or you can google the fuel injectors. If i have to guess, it should be around 3 Bar. I'm interested to learn more about those 2.2 turbo engines, from what i've heard they are something special. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRDT Posted November 28, 2020 Report Share Posted November 28, 2020 If it's stock it should be 0 280 160 227, 2.5 bar. Cars before 02/84 had another one but as a spare part you're supposed to order this one plus the corresponding injection ramp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted November 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2020 Thanks guys, It looks like this is my 3rd vehicle that has faulty fuel injectors... haha guess a car sitting for so long does that. I think the car started from the cold start injector, cause it would die after just 2 seconds. To get the injectors out it looks like the intake manifold has to come out? - Please tell me I am wrong haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted December 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2020 I thought this was neat: Reason this car was parked was due to a leaked differential (got lifted up by it during an inspection), and so I have a spare to replace it with, but I cant take off the wheel because the uh the lug nuts are the most rusty thing I thought i'd share some photos: ( All 48 lug nuts on my 3 505 Turbo's are like this haha) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted December 9, 2020 Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 Drill them out! If they're that bad, how bad is the bodyshell.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted December 9, 2020 Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 Wow, where do you live, at the beach, i've never seen wheel bolts that rusty and they are chrome from the factory. Try screw extractor, or drill them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted December 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 Haha you'd be surprised how rust free the rest of the car is, literally its just the lug nuts. A bit of surface rust under the car, and a few nuts & bolts rusty, but nothing serious. The strength of my drill bits are not as strong as those lug nuts haha, the drill just breaks and sizes down after a few minutes. Took 3 drill bits to make that tiny hole you see in the 3rd picture. Im 3 hours away from beach, its almost as if its rusted into a flower shape. The few nuts I had gotten off, I had to use 14mm for some and as high as 20 mm for others... thats rediculous lol. (19mm is original size) Jon had done a lot of rust proofing at some point, but he forgot them lug nuts, because he was planning to take the wheels off. I was thinking something like this socket piece, its kinda cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted December 9, 2020 Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 Harbor freight tools drill bits won't drill it, you need better quality, also you need to drill couple sizes, start 4mm or 1/4" drill bit first then 10mm or 3/8" second and 14mm or 1/2". You don't need to drill it full 2" you need to go around 1" deep. Also expect the rim to be stuck to the hub, good kick from the inside usually gets them unstuck or use a rubber hammer. And use a corded drill, not a battery powered one it usually has more power and there weight make them more stable, less broken drill bits. I hope this makes sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted December 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 This car has to be the most reliable vehicle ever... I put some carb cleaner in the fuel rail today, and then started the car. Surprisingly it started, and idled just fine, no smoke, it didnt drink coolant, and oil looks good. Besides the battery, and an oil change NOTHING has been replaced!! How about that after 15 years of sitting it still works just fine..... All I need is to get the wheels off lol and replace the differential, and then its ready for the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted January 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2021 Great Progress! Finally got the fuel injector cleaned/fixed, and the engine is running on all 4 cylinders now, and pretty smoothly too. Every now n then it has a misfire. I let the car warm up for 30 minutes, and no leaks were spotted. A few problems: Cooling system isnt pressurizing (Due to radiator cap I think), and the small switch next to throttle has a wire ripped off, which Jon says is probably causing the crackling and popping in the exhaust (sounds awesome though in my opinion). Turbo does appear to be working still! Havn't tested alot of the electrics, except headlights which dont work. Still a puddle in the backseat, not sure where its leaking from, any ideas? Apart from the exhaust crackling and popping Jon thinks it running just about how it used to. Next step is drilling the lug nuts off, and replacing the differential for a road test! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted January 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2021 DRILLED out the lug nuts, now just to swap the differential out with my spare car, and replace all the tires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted January 28, 2021 Report Share Posted January 28, 2021 How many drill bit it took? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted January 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2021 Well i started with a small size and worked my way up to a big size until the entire bolt on the hub was drilled out, I think 5 different sizes. Bits appear fine, but it did take forever to drill that much metal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted February 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 Another 35* F rainy day, and finally im just about ready to swap out the diffs from the white 505 to blackie! Wont be long before a test drive (hopefully)! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted February 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 Could someone explain how to remove the Torsen diff from 505 gas turbo in a somewhat-ish simple way? Just want to be safe as I have never removed a differential before. its so exciting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted February 2, 2021 Report Share Posted February 2, 2021 You need a jack with wheels and a smooth surface under it. As a young person i've improved with a skateboard, bottle jack and pieces of wood, remove one axle completely then you can pull the diff backwards and to the side to pull out the other axle from the diff. As for holding the diff i know it's secured with the torque tube and its 4 bolts and two mounts at the top. Be careful, the diff is pretty heavy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted February 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2021 Ok thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted February 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2021 all was going well when I removed one axle, but I cant get the diff separated from the torque tube (yes i removed the 4 nuts) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted February 3, 2021 Report Share Posted February 3, 2021 Did you remove the mounting bolts on the top? that should allow you to lower it a bit then few small taps from a hammer it should get off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted February 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2021 The 2 bolts up top that are 10mm torque/hex bits? They seem weird as they get tighter as I loosen them.. Around 125+ FT lbs of force im using Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted February 3, 2021 Report Share Posted February 3, 2021 Sounds like rust on top of the bolts. Use some penetrating oil and work it in and out tighten and then loosen, it will come out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted February 3, 2021 Report Share Posted February 3, 2021 Great progress Jayden! Try cycling back and forth with liberal spraying of penetrating oil. Loosen as much as you can, spray, then tighten. Spray the top of the bolt as best you can, and then loosen again. Repeat. I had a diff bolt so bad I had to drill the head off it to get it out, so hopefully yours works looks. The wire on the switch is VERY important to how these engines run. There's a TPS adjustment tech procedure in the tech section that is just absolutely amazing when you get it set right. If you need a switch let me know. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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