N9TE Posted May 14, 2015 Report Share Posted May 14, 2015 So, I was going to take my 87 turbo to a well known local mechanic and have him do the work. The car needed a headgasket (badly) and a turbo rebuild. The car ran. Drove it into the garage on Sunday. I told him I have the parts. He told me that he prefers to buy the parts. (red flag 1) "Have you bought any Peugeot parts, lately?" He maintained that he could get anything I already had. Whatever. He would take the parts and the car and treat is as an 'unfinished project' job and once he took the job, I was not going to have any input. I have enough money for "most" eventualities, but there are the outliers. I know a guy who (I think) got hosed for 50K on his Mustang project. I could not do that. I still trusted this guy though. And I was ready to go. Then I had to tell my wife "I don't know how much it's going to cost. 2K? Maybe 6K? I can't say." She (rightly) gave me the fish eye and that's all it took. I started on Monday and I've got everything torn off and cleaned except the exhaust/turbo. I expect to pull the head/exhaust/turbo as a unit. I may ask the group for a bit of advice here and there. I have budgeted time until next Friday to complete the job. Wish me luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted May 14, 2015 Report Share Posted May 14, 2015 She (rightly) gave me the fish eye and that's all it took. man, i hate when that happens. i'm thinking you made the right decision, though. good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted May 14, 2015 Report Share Posted May 14, 2015 Definitely made the right decision Koll! I know your attention to detail and the quality of your work - dude didn't stand a chance of doing as good a job. I'll be surprised if the head isn't cracked and it just is a HG, but please keep us posted. Happy to help anyway I can too man. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keebs Posted May 14, 2015 Report Share Posted May 14, 2015 A job like that I would charge 10-12 hours of labor (1000usd) max. You made a good choice. Never have anything done without a solid estimate, and never be hesitant about disputing the cost. Have you pulled the head before? If not, the head-manifold-turbo all bolted together weighs more than dark matter when leaning over the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hydropneumatic Posted May 14, 2015 Report Share Posted May 14, 2015 I stood above the engine bay with one foot on the firewall and the other on the radiator support in order the lift it. I might resort to a hoist if you have access to one. It's amazingly unwieldy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N9TE Posted May 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2015 Thanks for the encouragement! 10-12 hours. Wow, that's moving. If one was to remove the exhaust manifold, how would one remove the lower nut in cylinder 2? Factory book is worthless here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted May 14, 2015 Report Share Posted May 14, 2015 I used a cheap closed ended metric 12pt wrench that I ground thin enough to fit onto the nut. Worked slick and took a couple minutes to modify on bench grinder. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N9TE Posted May 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2015 So far... I pulled the exhaust/turbo taking heed to the advice about the combined weight. Glad I did. Notes to anybody doing this in the future. Lower nut on exhaust manifold on cylinder #2? Access it from underneath, behind the turbo. 10mm box wrench. Don't even try to unbolt the turbo from the mount in-situ. Jack up the engine using boss under AC bracket, unbolt mount. If those 6mm capscrews have been on for any appreciable length of time will require a ridiculous amount of torque to break free. Use a very high quality hex socket. No third world tools here. I went with SnapOn. I'm going to have to have the turbo rebuilt. If someone has one (rebuilt) on the shelf they want to sell, let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keebs Posted May 18, 2015 Report Share Posted May 18, 2015 My t3s60 is up for grabs if you want it. Comes with a .48 housing, wastegate actuator, and drain flange. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N9TE Posted May 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2015 My t3s60 is up for grabs if you want it. Comes with a .48 housing, wastegate actuator, and drain flange. Is it plug and play ready to bolt in to stick N9TE car? Cost shipped to 98136? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keebs Posted May 18, 2015 Report Share Posted May 18, 2015 Not exactly a direct fit, it has a 3 inch inlet and you would need a way to attatch the outlet piping. I'll take 400 shipped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N9TE Posted May 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 The headgasket did not let go. I have a fully rebuilt & tested new head ready to go. I have a Curty-Payen gasket set and an Original Peugeot one. Which should I go with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 Seems funny to say, but which one looks better visually? Any idea how old? After all this work I'd suggest going with a new Cometic, but I tried last week to get a hold of them for V-M with no luck. Not surprised with the valve seat crack, but first one I've seen with a spark plug crack. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N9TE Posted May 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 Fuel Injection AMP connector. I'm having trouble disconnecting it. It's like its a locking type, but I can't figure out how it works. Anybody been there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keebs Posted May 25, 2015 Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 Use a pick to pull off the wire lock piece, it's very time consuming. It takes less time to disconnect the fuel lines and remove the rail with the injector harness still attatched. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N9TE Posted May 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2015 I want to replace the starter while I have everything apart. Will this work on a N9TE? It's RockAuto (ugh), so that's why I'm trying to verify. Of the 6 starters they have for the "turbo" car, 3 are for the engine code ZDJL. Ya, it's Rock Auto. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1001183&cc=1227653&jnid=410&jpid=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted May 26, 2015 Report Share Posted May 26, 2015 That number does show up for the N9TE on PartsMonkey so I'd say it's good. (They also list a Bosch reman for $50 more. Make sure to use the 5% RockAuto discount code in the vendor section. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N9TE Posted June 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2015 Hopefully, the last whiny question: This rear cylinder head pin doesn't want to come out of the block. Is it necessary that it come out? If I destroyed it, would I be able to buy new ones? Thx, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted June 14, 2015 Report Share Posted June 14, 2015 Is the block getting decked - or is there some other reason it needs to come out? No idea if they could be had new, but used ones shouldn't be a problem should it need to come out and it gets wrecked. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N9TE Posted June 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 I don't know if the pin needs to come out. I figured it should, but it can remain. Status: New head ready to go: Got a number of parts ceramacoated. When things are black, you can't tell if they're dirty. Had turbo rebuilt by Alamo Turbochargers: Here's the deck. This took probably 30 hours to clean. All the tricks. None destructive. Permatex gasket removed, CRC gasket removed (Permatex is superior). Brass brush. Soft brass bristle attachment. Brass Dremel attachment. Perpendicular razor blade. Two questions: Why does the factory specify a re-torque. I will do it. There's no doubt about that. I'm just wondering why. They surely couldn't have done it like that when it was made in 1987. 2nd. Why was there so much oil/carbonized oil in the head bolt holes when I took the head off? I just can't see how it would have gotten down there. They weren't loose. Any ideas? I'm hoping to get the head back on next weekend. Hoping to be done in two weeks. I have no idea how pros get this done for $1100! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted June 22, 2015 Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 First - "Pro's" don't clean things like you do, they don't carbon removal to perfection, and they certainly don't go into details like ceramacoating and detailing components before reinstall! They tease Savo for his attention to detail on his Mi16 - but #Kollspec has been widely known for years! Nicely done... My only concern is the pics of the block deck - it looks spotless, but is there any pitting or corrosion - or is the metal just "stained" with the previous image of the headgasket? Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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