boundish Posted March 8, 2015 Report Share Posted March 8, 2015 Hi my car is running rough , its rough no matter the rpm its like its missing a little bit , plugs are new , leads are new and compression is ok . Are there any common culprits making these enignes run a bit rough? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 Distributor cap and rotor? Timing? How old os fuel and was stabilizer used? Fuel injection pressure? Quite a few things to check to find a rough running issue. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boundish Posted March 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 Distributor cap and rotor? Timing? How old os fuel and was stabilizer used? Fuel injection pressure? Quite a few things to check to find a rough running issue. Rabin I know hehe , just hoped that there was a common culprit on theese engines Fuel filter is also new and the d.cap and rotor seems fine . I can upload a clip of the car running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill Posted March 10, 2015 Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 Yeah, there's a ton of stuff that it could be. One easy thing to try is to feel the exhaust to see if you have a miss. -Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keebs Posted March 10, 2015 Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 Did you have the problem before the new plugs and leads? Take a look at the injector resistors, look for vacuum leaks. Shouldn't be too hard to track down. Most 505 problems can also be traced back to bad grounds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted March 15, 2015 Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 Most 505 problems can also be traced back to bad grounds. Although I'm a diesel person so can't be of much help I second the observation about grounds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V-M Posted March 17, 2015 Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 If cmpression is okay (readings?) and plug wires are correct ones and installed right. Next one is to check cam at there is all nozzels as they should. Small wear will not effect engine run so much (it will worn fast when started). How did rough run start, at sudden or little by little? V-M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boundish Posted March 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 If cmpression is okay (readings?) and plug wires are correct ones and installed right. Next one is to check cam at there is all nozzels as they should. Small wear will not effect engine run so much (it will worn fast when started). How did rough run start, at sudden or little by little? V-M I started more sudden , but the car has always stuttered a little bit though. The car has had a camshaft replacement under warranty many many years, but not so may km ago so i dont think the cam is worn.. i followed a guide on youtube on how to refurb the Air Flow Meter and this helped a little , but it still stutters a bit when idling or when driving normaly with not so much press on the accel. pedal. And if i shift down and take my foot off the accel. pedal to slow down there is a little popping in the exhaust. I got 9.9 bar compression on all cylinders , did the test 3 times and the results were consistent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted March 28, 2015 Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 What is your timing set too? Are you getting spark on all four? (I like to use the inductive timing lights to make sure all plugs fire nicely) Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V-M Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 when running try to unplug sparkwire one cylinder at the time to see if its one cyl or more general prob. V-M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boundish Posted April 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2015 when running try to unplug sparkwire one cylinder at the time to see if its one cyl or more general prob. V-M Spark is good i think beacuse when you give full throttle there is plenty power. But is the little yellow ignition LED in the instrument panel supposed to flash when you giv full throttle? , beacuse it does not flash when i give full throttle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keebs Posted April 5, 2015 Report Share Posted April 5, 2015 That LED is for diagnostics/detonation warning. If it's blinking it will lead you to the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boundish Posted April 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2015 Its not blinking , but i was unsure of its function beacuse a peugeot salesman i talked to a good while ago said that these cars , the euro ones at least they advance the ignition slightly when you give full throttle and when it does that the led is supposed to flash once... But i could be wrong as its a long time go i heard this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted April 6, 2015 Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 It usually blinks when detonation is detected, or below 1500 RPM when it flashes any stored codes. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill Posted April 7, 2015 Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 I concur. There is a lot of stuff that will trigger a flash. The Peugeot manual says that an occasional flash is no big deal. You should not be having it on a regular basis. A well tuned and sorted out N9Txx won't have any flashes. When the ECU picks up on something catttywompas, it will trigger that LED light, and it also modifies the timing, so you will still get home, but the power and performance won't be there. Crude but effective, and we're talking thirty year old technology. Personally, if it was me, I would clean every single electrical connection (even remotely) related to the ignition. Remember, these cars are tough. But if the ECU isn't getting the information it needs, it says so. -Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V-M Posted April 14, 2015 Report Share Posted April 14, 2015 Check that knock sensor box on right side on inside console, same issues occured when heater adjuster starts to leak and it leaks directly in that box and there is no hole where water can come out so it will fill up and destroy box. Cause it should indicate someting when reving. Hard idle also if there is leak on inlet side (try close any hose in inlet, also break vacuum). V-M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boundish Posted April 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 Check that knock sensor box on right side on inside console, same issues occured when heater adjuster starts to leak and it leaks directly in that box and there is no hole where water can come out so it will fill up and destroy box. Cause it should indicate someting when reving. Hard idle also if there is leak on inlet side (try close any hose in inlet, also break vacuum). V-M Is the knock sensor box in the passenger footwell ? i still haven found out why its not running smooth . So i decided to have a look at the AFM It was bit oily in that tract by the flap ( scracthes are from a mechanic trying the flap i think) Inside was nice and dry , but it had been opened before i think beacuse the glue was not original , i think it must be from when they(peugeot dealer) changed the camshaft many many years ago .. maybe they checked the afm before they found out it was the camshaft. Apparently there was a problem with he camshafts on these cars. I moved the feeler arm so that it got fresh material i followed this guide http://www.the944.com/afm.htm , its for porsche 944 but the bosch afms of the 80s are similar so it can be used here too Could my problem be this oil vapur hose connection on the intake hose be my problem ? looks like its sweating Thinking if it might be letting air in thats unmetered Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V-M Posted April 30, 2015 Report Share Posted April 30, 2015 I have used spreading water spray or small amounts start pilot spray on possible leak spots is easy way to check leaks. Dont use too much pilot spray or it will explode... and how I know that U can just take that hose out and replace it temp any hose fits to check. I have connected it also bypassing turbo. Directly from meter to head inlet. V-M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted April 30, 2015 Report Share Posted April 30, 2015 glad you solved the AFM problem. the porsche guys remanufacture their AFMs -- there are places that do this for any number of PCBs, AFAIK the porsche guys do it in groups to get a group rate. if your board couldn't be re-used and you couldn't find a replacement, pretty sure you could send it in and get it repaired. as far as the turbo intake hose, those are hard to find unused and un-cracked. you could repair yours or buy one from these guys. they're in france, but they've posted to our facebook group and i'm pretty sure they ship everywhere. we had a discussion a while back on whether this silicon intake hose would be as good as the original, no consensus so it would be good to hear from someone who bought one of these... andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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