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Refurbing the N9TE alternator


an5.sprite

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After realizing from this forum and other places that I could not find a replacement, I rebuilt the alternator in my 505 gas turbo this summer. From what I read the rotor and windings rarely fail, so the key parts are the regulator and tri-diode pack. These can be purchased for 9.95 and 15.25 from Holcombe Direct. To change them you do not even have to take apart the alternator - just unbolt the regulator and solder in the new diode set. This assumes the bearings are in good shape. I ended up taking mine apart because the bolts holding the diode set broke. I could not get replacements easily so purchased a hex bolt of the correct thread and ground the head down to fit into the insulating cup on the inside of the alternator.

Hope this helps.

Thanks all for the tips in the forum.

Steven

86 peugeot 505 turbo

59 bugeye sprite

02 mini copper s

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Welcome to the forum Steven!

Thanks for the heads up on rebuilding these alternators, but if you can locate the part #'s for the alternator that would be very helpful indeed for future reference.

Rabin

BTW: Feel free to introduce yourself as well (new post) - it's always great to meet new 505 turbo owners.

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Rabin,

Good suggestion as it took me a few days to verify the correct parts for the Rhone 505 turbo alternator. Below are the parts I used for my rebuild ordered online from Holcombe Direct.

Qty Item # Description Price

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

1 11-RP-04H VALEO,50 AMP,115mm OD $15.25

1 09-VRPR1925H PR,14.6 Volt Set $9.95

Subtotal: $25.20

Shipping: $12.53

Total $37.73

Steve

86 peugeot 505 turbo

59 bugeye sprite

02 mini copper s

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That's awesome Steve - thanks very much!

Although - I never knew it was only a 50A alternator... Hmm... Maybe I should tweek that GM alternator to fit that bottom mount after all.

I upgraded my 504 to an 80A GM alternator and it's amazing how much better all the systems work - especially at idle.

Rabin

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I think it is a 70 amp alternator. each side has two button diodes for a total of 6 diodes. The original used 35 amp diodes so times 2 gives you 70 amps. I purchased the 50 amp version hoping it will last longer. I do not know if it will change the output, but I can tell you the battery feels like it is getting a better charge.

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Well that's good to know - thanks very much for the clarification.

I've got a bum alternator in the garage so I think I might order this "kit" up and see if I can refurb it. Not really worth modding a GM alternator if this is all it needs. (I'll give it a quick once over to ensure bearings and such are all good.

Thanks again Steve!

Rabin

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Well that's good to know - thanks very much for the clarification.

I've got a bum alternator in the garage so I think I might order this "kit" up and see if I can refurb it. Not really worth modding a GM alternator if this is all it needs. (I'll give it a quick once over to ensure bearings and such are all good.

Thanks again Steve!

Rabin

Before you take off the diode pack squirt some penetrating oil on the bolts and let it sit overnight. That may prevent them from snapping in two like mine did. Also, make sure to mark where the insulting washers belong, I was in a hurry and did not do this. When it came time to reassemble I had to stare at all the connections for an hour to figure out what was grounded and what was "hot".

Good Luck.

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  • 9 months later...

Well - looks like I'll be trying to find another source for these parts - looks like Holcombe Direct is now out of business.

Alternator died on the 89' last week, replaced it last weekend with the nice looking used one I had. That one lasted about a week and it died likely yesterday. Sucky thing about using used parts I guess!

I'm playing around with the idea of fitting a small ND alternator or something similar. I know I can fit a modified GM alternator - but I want it to be a bolt in replacement instead of machining the GM housing to fit the mount. I'd much rather machine up spacers so the alternator could be a simple bolt in replacement later.

I'll see what the local rebuilder's quote first before I get too crazy. :)

Rabin

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i think some of the alternator components that holcombe direct sold were actually made by regitar...i've also read in other forums that nations auto electric can get just about anything for alternators, but their website sucks so you have to call them to get what you need...

hope this helps...

andré

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$48 labour + parts was the quote, so I just took two spares in to get done. If they can be re-conditioned for less than $100 each, then I'll be happy.

He said they get a complete going over, complete dis-assembly and and anything needing to be done is done - pretty much like any reman unit bought he said.

I'll update tomorrow with final cost.

Rabin

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Got the alternators back and they look awesome. Thoroughly cleaned and painted up. Copper windings are nice and shiny and everything!

They were just over my hope of $100ea, but I'm very happy with the quality. Brushes, diodes, and bearings were replaced in both, the voltage regulators he said were fine.

The only issue was the noise suppression caps on the back - I figured they wouldn't be needed, but wanted to make sure as the were wired up inline VS what I saw online - but it was confirmed I can just leave them off. I shouldn't have interference, but if I do it's a simple fix to add it back on.

For this price I don't think I'll bother with doing up a swap to GM. If I do swap - I'll fit a tiny ND 100A alternator and it'll be part of a serpentine belt conversion. :) I don't know why I keep coming back to this in my head, but a serpentine set up would be really neat to engineer IMHO. No other reason other than I'd like to see if I could do it!

Rabin

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I had actually had a Valeo AN14A (or whatever) alternator rebuilt on my 87 turbo by a local shop. They said it would be no problem and it wasn't. Except that the brushes wore out in six months. I took it back to them with a factory OEM brush kit from my stash and that solved the problem.

Beware of brushes sourced in a rather large and industrious Asian country with a dubious reputation for quality... :)

Other than that, our alternators are not anything special and very rebuildable by a reputable shop.

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I guess time will tell!

I got it installed tonight, but no time to address any of the wiring. I did get to thoroughly degrease the motor while it was out before re-installation. I knew I was tempting fate by washing the motor, as they NEVER like getting washed - but I appear to have almost totally avoided any issues.

It did die very abruptly after about 30 seconds when I first started it, then was a hard start for a couple minutes. Once it restarted though it was perfect.

My only issue now is that I lost the original Alternator bottom bolt, and the replacement I found while having the right thread, is much thinner through the body and there's a fair bit of angle to it even when it's all bolted up tight...

Car charges at a nice 14.2V at idle though and seems to be working excellent. I'll keep an eye out for short lifespan - but these guys cater to farmers and industry - so I'm pretty sure they'd use quality materials. Nothing worse than substandard parts costing downtime during harvest season...

Rabin

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  • 1 year later...

Quick update - alternator hasn't died, but the DC voltage it makes pulses and flickers the lights which is most annoying. It tests fine as far as output, but from the reading it's likely the voltage regulator not working properly. I thought it might be one of the diodes was gone - so trying to order both just in case, so that I can replace them in the 2nd alternator I had rebuilt and install it later.

I initially thought it might be because I didn't replace the capacitor on the back of the alternator as it might smooth the pulses out, but it didn't do anything and is just for signal noise suppression entirely. (I thought it might do both)

Sent an e-mail to Nations Auto to see if they can provide the parts Steven listes - I'll update if I get a response.

Rabin

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