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Getting ready to race #45 for the first time


nick@nite

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^^^ = Because Racecar...

Are you setting up CO2 for extra cooling or is that a water bar on the IC?

Rabin

That was a Meth line, IC kit came off a WRX that my father bought at the auction a few years ago. The WRX had a brand new Cosworth 2.5L block with 2.0 heads.... It was to good to pass up. I found a stock 2.0L engine and returned the car back to stock. Now having a spare engine for my father's STI. His engine is using some oil... It's been stressed a few times. No blow by but its using oil. It's makes more power than he's willing to take it a lot of times still. We're trying the Total 10w60 oil.

I just don't want any lag

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What ARP studs were those - and did they press right in? I bought some Honda ARP studs for my hub conversion set up, but ended up using different ones in the 1st attempt, but if I need to run spacers I'll likely redo the rear flanges and install the ARP studs.

Rabin

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Tack welded since they were a bit loose? Or tack welded as a racer precaution?

Nice move on replacing the frame rail too - it'll be much stronger with a fresh piece welded in.

Rabin

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The rail was still 3/4 of an inch shorter on the left side, and wasn't plated very strong..... <_< Chris Putzier is having another Bi op on his neck and isn't doing very well.... His 3rd time around now....

Studs were a slight bit loose. We also cut the tops off the OE lugz and re tapped them all the way through.

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Pushed the car out for the first time in a week.

Went over to Kalescustom, loaded the danielson engine.
Took off the Timing covers, installed all new chain, tensioner, and both slide pads. Zero slack now ;) Headstuds will be installed tomorrow with using the OE headbolts washers.
0325131732_zps9bcd4e25.jpg

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Pearl engine bay and gloss black subframe, painted the headlight lenses again white.
New front crank seal, re drill and tapped a bunch of thread holes. Installed headstuds to 70 then to 80 ft. lbs, with the consideration of fine thread VS. course thread... @ 80 the nuts hardly moved from 70. Torque is torque, and we all agreed on that.
0326131747_zpscaecb0c7.jpg
0326131741_zpsbb47d657.jpg How it sits now.
Tomorrow we have to screw around with fitting the headers. Go get the intake again so we can figure out an alternative bracket setup for the Alt. and P/S pump/res.
0326131742_zps62755ba9.jpg

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Awesome update! Absolutely love that last shot of the motor with the header. Any plans to have it ceramic coated to keep some of the heat inside? Or are you just going to wrap it?

And did you guys figure out how to do the 60-2 trigger wheel for the VEMS yet?

Rabin

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Awesome update! Absolutely love that last shot of the motor with the header. Any plans to have it ceramic coated to keep some of the heat inside? Or are you just going to wrap it?

And did you guys figure out how to do the 60-2 trigger wheel for the VEMS yet?

Rabin

My father doesn't really believe in wrapping on turbo cars. The header beside the little rust on the bottom still has the coating. Talked with Jason Russell yesterday. He says the Hall effects on the distrib works, although not as accurate as a crank trigger. Time will tell.

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Well got the P/S pump figured out. Rotated a ZDJL pump and used the N9T pulley. Using an Audi 3.0 p/s hose. Stock N9T belts fit tight.
Still have to cut and mod the intake for the injectors. CIS injectors have longer nozzles...
Picture167_zps6c22e3e4.jpgPicture168_zps052add46.jpg

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