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About Stewart

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    Peugeot Enthusiast

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  1. Just finished a 1000 mile service after fixing engine, brakes, suspension, electrics.
  2. John, I've been busy learning a few software programs and rebuilding clients projects. Pipemax, Controlled Induction and the Megasquirt system and using Tuner Studio. I have set up from scratch a Megasquirt 2 V 3.57 to run a Mini BMC A engine on batch fire injection, wasted spark and intercooled turbo. Hardest part was learning technical terms used in USA. Confused the hell out my Bosch/French tech trained brain. During the set up I had to diagnose and repair a damaged ECU board with blown driver transistors for ignition and an intermittentnt tooth trigger fault from a VR crank sensor. I joined Digi-key as a customer and tracked down one of the best Hall effect crank sensors they have for our engine stuff. This bought me to sequential injection for my projects using only hall effect sensors, no damn VR any more for me. I intend to use an idea which struck me to time injectors to 0.050" inlet valve timing for low speed and idle. One reason is to make completely sure the starting fuel can be very finely set while attempting start up on an unmapped ECU. My even fire crank needs damage repaired but the rest of the engine should work OK. I have cams already which will yield a good result. They lift 8.74mm on the 44 mm valve. I am building a head flow bench at the moment so I can use what I have and the software to have a lot of fun with.
  3. G'Day Drew, I'm using standard valves. I have another getting built up with more fine tuning in the port dimensions and valve head shape. This cam is a product of Owen W ( aussiefrogs) and Camtech. 622/107. Your cam is one of my set ups ground by Tighe Cams. for street use. The 622/107 by Camtech is a nice set up which is almost a Tighe 240 with a little more lift. Your cam is Intake 19/58 0.455" lift Exhaust 70/21 0.474" lift, long inlet and plenum. The throttle body engine is Intake 30.5/64.5 0.444" lift Exhaust 66.5/28.5 0.444" lift and 4 x 45 mm throttles. I have a heat shield over the top of the inlet manifold to keep the runners hot as well. Below in red and green is what I think would be your engine compared to in the dark red and dark green the tested engine I got tuned to 4500rpm with the predictions very close to reality. You can see how much more low rpm your set up has here.
  4. Thanks Goce. The figures match what I measured to 4500 rpm. My test rig couldn't hold the torque after 4500 so the tune will have to be finished in the car.
  5. Sorry. RPM . Here it is again. It has 4 x 45mm throttles, 2x 2 batch fired injectors and wasted spark. My exhaust was the larger bore factory manifold and a not so pretty large pipe into an old Landcruiser muffler, so there is probably more left. All things considered , until 4500 rpm WOT the prediction matched my torque readings withing a few lb. Air temps were high at 55 to 60 deg C. Engine needs to run in too. I'm very happy with it. A sound so glorious that men from the neighbourhood just wanted to sit in the door and listen! I purchased Pipemax a while ago so the next version of this engine should be a little better. The inlet ports were filled where the injector relief was and just gently finished . The exhaust ports got a lot of material removed though. A little rally 404 sedan should boogie with it. If you check the second image the torque I measured at 4500 rpm was 145 lb, with the prediction saying 150. With exhaust system fitted there is every chance of the predicted at power at 6500 rpm.
  6. I ended up running the engine on the test bed to 4500 rpm, wide open throttle and fully loaded. It returned 145 lb at 4500 at predicted ignition of 37 deg. BTDC.
  7. SRDT, I suspected he heated the old parts to burn out impurities. It would have to be beneficial for stress as well. He was a qualified air frame welder so maybe we've picked up some inside knowledge. Rabin, I recall a 504 rally crossmember I saw which had a small nose added to the crossmember. From the torque tube a stud was passed through a hole in the nose and then what looked like a rubber cylinder over the stud then nipped up with a nut and washer. Allowing 360 degree clearance but with a small tolerance in movement . I'll try and draw it for us. I think the TIG is a TIG 200 ac/dc.
  8. I may have seen the heavy duty options on a microfische or a parts book. All good now as I've made up reasonable looking engine mounts and movement restrictor assemblies. I recall seeing a piece welded to the rear x member with a rubber mount like a shocker rubber assembly bolted to the torque tube. Stopped the drive line for aft movement I think. I guess it would reduce twist too. I trialled the TIG I have last week. Pretty fun thing. Electric style gas welding. I'll have to get practicing so I can weld the rack housing. I have a contact who heats the alloy piece with a propane torch prior to welding. Makes sense I guess.
  9. Thanks Rabin. I might have seen the data when I had Peugeot Service Box.
  10. Guys, I' recall seeing a parts list of heavy duty options available for the 504/505 years ago. Can anyone here suggest where I might access that data please?
  11. I've just calculated that a valve spring in the right place could be used as a torque reaction fitting on the engine mount. I think I'll go this way as I can design in adjustment for the mount sag and also tighten them for hard working. As for engine control , I'm really impressed with the Russian SECU-3 system. So easy for me to understand their focus and layout although I'm a little tricked by the file types in the firmware. php it is. (Me old silver back gorilla mechanic and no understand the file electron magic smokes.) The system has some great tools like a separate engine fan speed control box, as in modern cars a pwm fan and they have a map sensitive ign box for my carb cars.
  12. That's probably it, thanks. Working too hard on fun things and I forget the obvious. I get " there was a problem uploading your file' I've almost nutted out something on the mounts with one of two ways. An arm like a sway link pin from a 505 wagon rear bar. At an angle so that when the engine lifts or twists it works against the rubber bushes in the link twisting them. Or I could use coil springs each side of a plate. See what a good night's sleep brings tonight I suppose.
  13. Made engine brackets for engine mounts this week. 3mm steel. It took hours but they are almost complete. Just working on torque reaction control now. I don't seem able to upload images atm.
  14. Some images of the build and test bed I knocked up for initial scratch mapping. I had a lab power source hooked up and then tuned dwell and injector deadtime down to almost 6 volts up to 15 volts. That made the engine start beautifully. The white graph is the tuned in ignition map, TPS to RPM. The blue blue graph is Dynosim 5 ignition figures for use in the Simulation. You can see the ECU at WOT and 4250 to 4750 35 and 36 degrees respectively. No knocking recorded or heard via electronic stethoscope. Also recorded on a digital strain gauge 150 lb ft at 4500 at 12.5 af ratio. Simulator worked . I had no alternator fitted but did use the water pump in the test. You can see my custom valve springs and retainers , chrome moly pushrods, and aren't those blue trumpets cool? Valve lift is 0.440" . 275 seat to seat and 231 at 0.050". I made a cover to blanket the alloy inlet runners which keeps the inlet at 50 to 60 in the manifold. I used a Hitachi Optical CAS from a nissan it sits tightly under the manifold where the distributor was. Wasted spark from Subaru Liberty with coil dumb coil drivers inside coil pack. Mi 16 injectors. Coolant temp fitted under thermostat in water pump from 505/306/405 CTS and air temp from 306 throttle body. I fitted a fuel tank purge valve as the fast idle air inlet which was pulsed by ECU and closed at 50 C. Engine is patiently waiting at owners shed to fitted to a rally preped 404 . 4 wheel disc brakes, hypoid diff, BA7/5 gearbox. I also made up a replacement driveshaft for a couple of his cars using 505 shafts from a wagon. We fit a solid crucifix uni from a small ford into a 505 uni and use the 505 splines on our shortened tailshaft. I break unis easily in my 404 and this idea seems to be working pretty well at the moment.
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