Bean

Feel free to start a new thread for the garage if you want - I love garage builds and seeing how and what get done. Missed the pics of the interior and your dilemma! I don’t envy the choice but give the nod so the brown as that darker tone of tan/baseball glove type colour just looks so good in anything. Like tan I cannot abide by though! Rabin

I’m quite sure when I rebuilt my turbo with billet 19T compressor wheel it was a TD04HL-13G - it had the exact same hot side, but I had it rebalanced with with the billet 19t. Had to machine the center section so the 19t cleared, but other than that - the stock 19t went on perfect and it boosted very well indeed. I sold the car that turbo is on, but kept the disassembled stock 19T with hopes of building it up for the diesel. Quite sure I have the stock 13G wheel and compressor housing, but the plan was to do the same billet wheel you did - so this is all valuable feedback. We could compare stock compressor wheel dimensions if that helps? Rabin

It was hard to say without seeing actual boost pressure : RPM relationship as that usually clearly shows what boost response is like under load, so can't really comment other than you obviously know what you're feeling, so it has to be spooling later than ideal. If there is a 5cm2 housing that would be an easy change, the 6+6 is the stock wheel design, but on the 19T I found it very non-linear. When I went to the straight blade I found it built boost sooner, but had a much more linear build which made it so much nicer to drive and felt faster since it pulled lower and ALL the way to redline - but that was a 2500 - 7000 range on that motor! With the diesel's shorter power band - maybe the 6 + 6 is the better choice since the RPM window is so much smaller? Throwing on a stock 13G with a 5cm2 housing as long as it was bolt on might be the least work to see if that improves response on the XD3T.... Rabin

@Goce - He's likely our resident Mi16x4 expert even though he did a RWD conversion on his! Can you provide more details on what the expected result should be? We never got the car in North America, but any vehicle system should be fairly straight forward to troubleshoot. Rabin

My whole build goal was highway trip car, so the boost response and performance I was after was exactly that - climbing highway passes, as well as highway passing performance, so I think I was pretty dang close for bench building what I thought would work well for this motor. I owe you thanks in return for trusting me enough to take a chance on this unproven advice, and to build it with all the assumed risk that goes with that. Initially I was going to suggest that I *think* there was a 5cm2 housing available, but I did some more search and found a similar thread where the guy used the same turbo on another diesel. He swapped to a 5cm2 housing and it only boosted a few hundred rpm sooner, but his EGT’s went way up as a result. His conclusion was the slightly quicker spool wasn’t worth the added restriction / EGTs. So this super safe EGT’s and drive pressures you’re seeing are likely a direct result of the bigger compressor housing, at the expense of fast low down spool. Once you get more time and miles on the car I’d love to hear what kind of fuel economy you’re seeing as well. Rabin

Awesome update Wade! Im super curious to know what the boost curve is in relation to RPM, but since you don’t have a tach can you estimate boost in relation to gear and speed? It sounds pretty decent and not laggy enough for you to complain about - so would you say drivability is good? Would you do a 13T again on an XD3T or do you think it’s still a bit big? 650F is no where near the danger zone, so I think you’ll be fuel limited boost wise which is a good thing about diesels since you’ll never need to worry about running lean or anything like that. Also need to ask - How does it feel in comparison to a turbo gas wagon? That was my target for my diesel project - I wanted the diesel to at least equal the 505 Turbo gas performance numbers. Rabin

I have an engine on a stand in the garage that I can measure the knock sensor on, and I’ll see if the FSM has any diagnostic specs for the circuit. Rabin

I watched a couple of the videos and setting the tru boost spring pressure seems to be a key tuning tool, but likely more so with a single port WG. They keep referencing a dual port as an external as well which might work opposite to a dual port internal wastegate set up. Would recommend the videos as there’s a 4 part series that while low on production quality, took you through the set up quite nicely. Regardless - it was very different to what I was expecting the control logic to be as well, but it makes sense given all the variables at play. Guessing you need something like this when dealing with a pneumatic signal rather than something like a digital controller / actuator. Rabin

There are some good videos on you tube for setting up the Tru Boost- well worth the time. I have the older one - is yours the newer Boostx version? Definitely works differently than I had thought as well, and has quite the set up routine, but I did know set up and configuration was critical for proper operation, but once dialed in it was very stable and highly recommended. Rabin

It might be easier to extract the bolt end while it’s bolted and secure to the motor as is. Now that you have access I would try heat and many many applications of a rust penetrating oil. Sharp blows to the stub as well can help break it loose so that it can be grabbed with vise grips and removed. If you have a welder - I’d put a nut over the bolt stub and mig weld them together. Once cooled it’ll come right out. The key with any removal is patience, heat, and penetrating oil. Rabin

Drive pressure / EBP is also great for knowing when the exhaust manifold, or the turbo itself is too much of a restriction. 1:1 is perfect, but once you start to see it increasing you know it’s starting to hit a wall and that’s where your set up is ideal. Scotty’s reminder that diesels will only boost as much as fueling allows is also a good thing to keep in mind as your tuning. You could just keep increasing boost thresholds until you start to see EBP, or EGT concerns. Also wanted to ask how does the car feel as it revs out, and does it still have much of a governor or how did Giles tune that? Most stock pumps are governed quite low and will pull a lot of fuel to limit rpm. VW guys usually mod the spring out so there is no governor, but I believe Giles tunes the governor spring so that the motors pull much higher but still have the safety of a functioning governor to prevent over revving. Rabin

Scotty is a LEGEND - I don’t post much on FB but when I saw he commented, I had to as well. He went by Demandu or something so I didn’t place him until he mentioned his wagon and it all came back to me! It was his wagon with the ba10/5 that prompted me to plan the 5sp swap into my diesel wagon. His 504 resto was shaping up to be amazing as well. Having the boost control with the dual port set up should give you way better control. On the Volvo’s that turbo came on, the WG rod was adjusted so that at 4.5-5psi the WG would start to open. That might be a good place to start while you wait for the dual port WG, but please document the dual port install as that’ll be cool to see. BTW - we’ve had the discussion before, but pretty sure automatics got 10mm pump heads, and manuals got 9mm pump heads. At least that’s what sticks out in my memory. Also - can you get more room to advance the pump by removing it and advancing the gear a tooth? Rabin

The wastegate you used - how many ports does it have? Usually you can go with a light spring if you have a dual port WG that uses boost pressure to hold it shut as well, then when the wg gets the boost signal it swaps to the other side to open it quickly. There’s some fancy routing that goes with it - but you get the point. With stock / single port WGs the spring needs to be strong enough to stay shut until boost target, and then the boost signal opens it pretty quickly. If the spring is too light it’s likely creeping open giving you a lazy boost curve. Will be very curious what you see with respect to stiffer springs… Also curious if Giles said anything about fueling limits? That 13T should push a fair bit more psi quite efficiently. Rabin

I read the first reply and scrolled back up as I thought the same thing! If you test the board the same way does it still test OK? Can you trace the board at all or inspect for cold solder joints? Does sensor test OK? Open circuit still makes the most sense. What year is the car again? Having another ECU would help troubleshoot it. Rabin

Awesome find! I would have bet on wiring or a connnection LONG before the circuit board. Looking forward to seeing if that’s the fix. Total aside - but that was another option I looked at, swapping engine control to a Volvo LH 2.4 ecu with associated wiring and stuff. Volvo guys had it pretty well documented, and seemed pretty doable if you could get a hold of the parts. In the end I decided stand-alone was the better option for all the work needed. Rabin

I sent an e-mail to our distribution list, so hopefully someone on the list can confirm they have one as a back up if Brian can’t locate one. Rabin

Hi Sharon, Did you need both mirrors at the same time? Quirky thing about them is they can fit both sides since they’re highly adjustable, so you could use the driver side one in a pinch on the passenger side, and when you get another mirror attach it then so the mounting holes are used on both doors. If you do need one ASAP then Brian Holm might be your best bet: https://g.co/kgs/dXmz1J Rabin

Pretty sure it’ll be direct to the ECU. What does the sensor read directly? It should read the same at the ECU plug. I would verify the plug at the knock sensor is in good shape, check for corrosion in the wires. If the wire has an issue it should be under hood with the elements, but could also be inside the car if there was ever mice in it. Rabin

The document also suggests "Electrical circuit continuity" - you might want to test the continuity of the knock sensor wiring back to the ECU to make sure there's no broken wires or bad connections. If you remove the sensor and just zip tie it somewhere and the error still shows up that would tell me the ECU isn't even seeing the sensor. If the error stops with the sensor no longer on the block then it must be picking up knock - or something it thinks is knock. It should also be revving out - put a timing light on it and see if ignition timing advances with revs. Rabin

Great reminder for sure as the euro 504 headlights are my favorite part of the 504 look for me. Definitely keep us posted on progress as well - hands are fairly tied now, but if it drags out into the spring / summer then that could change things. Rabin

Very cool to hear about the Emira - but now I need to ask what spec you ordered? I’m guessing it has to be a first edition so supercharged v6? Manual? Sport? Absolutely LOVE the philosophy of this new car of theirs that’ll probably the last nod to the analogue sports cars of yesterday. Rabin

Is there any chance the sensor is picking up actual knock? Might want to troubleshoot it by removing the sensor off the block to see if it’s still being triggered. Rabin

Not just you Norman! The 8 valve hydraulic shocks and long travel suspension are just amazing! Can’t help with the Flex, except to say I’ve always seen them as the closest thing we got to a domestic wagon in recent memory. Quite like them, and have often found myself looking and the Lincoln MKZ version with the 3.5 Eco boost. Rabin

I thought it was supposed to be 3 bar at idle, and the FPR is boost references which means fuel pressure goes up with boost. You should be able to add pressure to the FPR and see pressure increase with each psi of boost. Stock is just 1:1 ratio so 1 psi boost should add 1 psi fuel pressure. Rabin

Welcome to the forum Tim! Being in California means you’re in the same State as @my3AWDgst (Savo) who’s famous for his 405’s… If anyone knows of one for sale it’ll be him. Rabin