N9TE Posted May 13, 2008 Report Share Posted May 13, 2008 OK. The "general consensus" for what it's worth says to runn 15w50 synthetic. My question to those who've given this some thought is - why? Every engine (including turbos) takes 10-30. The trend is toward running 5-30. Why did the N9T require 10w40 SE/SF? Interestingly, the XN6 requires the same oil! Are Peugeot engines so loosy-goosy that they need all that thickness at operating temps? I've been using 15w50 Mobil-1 in the black car and I'm going to change the oil in the "beater" (86 N9TE 5sp). I don't particularly like to having to hunt for 15w50 and paying a premium for it. What are you guys running? I'd like to run Mobil-1 10w30 like every other car I've owned. I also noticed that it calls for regular gasoline Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick@nite Posted May 13, 2008 Report Share Posted May 13, 2008 5.3 quarts of 10w30 is fine in the old Peg. It not really going to change anything unless you stay with the same oil for awhile. We use 5w30 synth in most Audi, Mercedes, BMW and Porsches. Audi's the sludge build-up in the PCV especially with the 1.8t and the depends on driver and how frequent a person changes the oil with the 2.8 and the 3.0 leakers blow oil no matter what. They are the worst engine that Audi has made... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted May 13, 2008 Report Share Posted May 13, 2008 I'm running 5W40 AMSOIL in my Volvo, and have run Mobil 1 10W30 in my Peugeot's... One thing that came to light recently was that the newer oils that have the "Energy Conservation" emblem with the specifications aren't the best for older engines. The new EC formula apparently removes some of the additives that improved the oils shear and shock loading, which isn't needed in a lot of the newer engines running roller rocker valve trains and such... I've just found this out - and I checked my stock of Mobil and it has the EC designation - my AMSOIL doesn't. Apparently the good oils like Redline, Royal Purple, AMSOIL etc are still good to use in older engines... Found this out through my buddy who was looking for oil for his F2000 race car... It's gone through the race circles as something to look out for... I was supposed to check out Valvoline - it's supposed to be good to use as well if you want a cheaper option. Once my 505 Turbo is running again though - it'll go on the same diet as the Volvo... (Euro blended 5W40) Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted May 13, 2008 Report Share Posted May 13, 2008 i always run mobil1 10w40. you can buy a 5qt jug of it at walmart (yeah i know, walmart ) for like $22!! don't forget a good quality filter (i try to stock up on purflux from WH). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSB Posted June 8, 2008 Report Share Posted June 8, 2008 Just to stir things up a bit, let it be known here and now that Red had 7.5 w 15 Motul oil in it at both SCCA National Championship races it ran in. We never ran that during the year but the two times we did the turbo response from the light weight oil was very noticable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85-505 Posted June 8, 2008 Report Share Posted June 8, 2008 Ya I tried the Quaker State HigherMileage type Oil last change hoping it would help with the smoking. Still smokes ... I think the valve seals are gone at almost 200,000miles. I've dumped in some stop smoke additive ( Bardhal i think ) but that only works for about 400 miles or so..I just keep topping it up every fill up or 2 Next time ill try something like Mobil 1 or whatever canadian tire has on sale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal505 Posted June 8, 2008 Report Share Posted June 8, 2008 I run either Mobil 1, or Chevron, when I'm low on funds... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSB Posted June 8, 2008 Report Share Posted June 8, 2008 ... I think the valve seals are gone at almost 200,000miles. It's been my experience that the valve guide seals die by time alone. The mileage doesn't make a differance. There are better seals to use, BMW as I recall. This is assuming that the leakdown test are good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N9TE Posted June 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2008 Just to stir things up a bit, let it be known here and now that Red had 7.5 w 15 Motul oil in it at both SCCA National Championship races it ran in. We never ran that during the year but the two times we did the turbo response from the light weight oil was very noticable. Damn, then 10w30 would not be a big deal. That's great news. I got some 15-50 and put it in the beater, but from now on, it's Mobil-1 10w30. Back in my Supra days, all the turbo cars ran 10w30 and there was no issues. What do you run now days in the cars? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSB Posted June 8, 2008 Report Share Posted June 8, 2008 I'm not so brand loyal these days as when Motul was a sponsor of mine but 10w30 is the soup d'jour. Did the Supra's have water cooled centre housings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N9TE Posted June 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2008 I'm not so brand loyal these days as when Motul was a sponsor of mine but 10w30 is the soup d'jour. Did the Supra's have water cooled centre housings? Ah good. I was under the impression the "rest of the engine" needed these thicker weights. The MKIII Supra (87-92) had the CT-26 turbo - water and oil cooled as well. Affectionately known as "the pea shooter". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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