SRDT Posted August 11, 2022 Report Share Posted August 11, 2022 Maybe it's the distributor head, if you remove the plug to check there is no compression so it's easy to have a spark but inside the cylinder that's another story. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted August 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2022 I wonder if the timing is badly off. Everytime I hook up a inline light tester it shows I have spark and when I take out a plug they are all sparking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRDT Posted August 11, 2022 Report Share Posted August 11, 2022 Timing is managed by the ECU so unless the ECU itself is bad you need do mess with the TDC sensor or the flywheel to change it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted August 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2022 Where is the TDC sensor? I have a feeling it may be the ECU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRDT Posted August 11, 2022 Report Share Posted August 11, 2022 It's on the gearbox, near the power steering pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted August 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2022 1 hour ago, SRDT said: It's on the gearbox, near the power steering pump Thanks - Is this it? The Bosch style connector? (picture taken looking down from next to the battery/fuel dampener) Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRDT Posted August 11, 2022 Report Share Posted August 11, 2022 It's colser to the engine, on top of the flywheel: Â What you have circled should be the reverse light switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted August 12, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2022 I tested the Coolant temp, airflow, IAC, RPM sensor for a ohms and voltage reading and all was within spec. I am really having some trouble getting this car working well, but I will persevere. While the engine was running (on i think 1 and sometimes 2 cylinders) I had me a Tee'd in intake hose for me to spray in Carb cleaner. While spraying carb cleaner the engine runs nicely. This indicates a very lean mixture. Other than the ECU, I have no idea why it would be lean if the airflow meter, coolant temp and rpm sensor are working. Of course there is the intake leak possibility but I really tracked down all the hoses and found no leaks. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRDT Posted August 13, 2022 Report Share Posted August 13, 2022 Maybe a bad connexion on the +12v side of the injectors or on the fuel pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted August 13, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2022 5 hours ago, SRDT said: Maybe a bad connexion on the +12v side of the injectors or on the fuel pump Possibly on the injectors, but the fuel pump I have powered by an external power supply. I do know the injectors are firing (I can hear and feel them clicking), I don't know if they are fired for the right amount of time though, plus the fuel pressure is within spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRDT Posted August 13, 2022 Report Share Posted August 13, 2022 There is a injector dead time correction depending on battery voltage but it's probably the voltage at the ECU and not at the injectors. This correction is more important at idle because the injectors are not open for long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted August 13, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2022 How would I check this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRDT Posted August 13, 2022 Report Share Posted August 13, 2022 Injectors are supplied with +12V by the same relay than the ECU, the ECU fires injectors by supplying a ground. If the wiring is fine you should have the same voltage at pin 37 on the ECU and at the injectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted August 22, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2022 On 8/13/2022 at 6:56 PM, SRDT said: Injectors are supplied with +12V by the same relay than the ECU, the ECU fires injectors by supplying a ground. If the wiring is fine you should have the same voltage at pin 37 on the ECU and at the injectors. Hey SRDT, sorry for taking so long to check this, but I found the voltage on pin 37 is the exact same as the voltage at the injectors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRDT Posted August 22, 2022 Report Share Posted August 22, 2022 No problem, it's your car so you can take as long as you want. Just like me with my to do list... Well at least the good news is that the injectors should be fine in term of wiring so the problem must be elsewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted August 22, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2022 Should I try 'borrowing' an ECU from someone, like Rob Courtier or Brian holm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peat Posted August 23, 2022 Report Share Posted August 23, 2022 Have you checked your distributor components? I had an ongoing misfire issue, plugs fouling, poor running when it ran at all. I checked and replaced a lot of parts trying to track it down. It turned out to be a newly replaced rotor that had a defect in its insulation and was shorting out to the cam shaft when the car warmed up. It was new along with the cap so I didn't suspect it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRDT Posted August 23, 2022 Report Share Posted August 23, 2022 Yes if it's not too much trouble to find another ECU you should try it, yours has the (52*) error code after all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted November 28, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2022 Its been a while since i'v posted about this car, but I havnt forgotten it. I just finally found a major issue. I pulled the timing belt cover off and the exhaust cam is 4 or 5 teeth off from where it should be. I'm so relieved to have finally found an issue, but very concerned that the valves are probably damaged. Im going to stick a boroscope into the cylinders and try to peek at the valves, and then I will redo the timing belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted December 10, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2022 Looked further into the Cam timing to find it actually was correct... I was just checking it wrong. I'v decided to pause work on all my other projects until I get somewhere with this car. I pulled the plugs and they are all oily and black with less than 100 miles on them - not sure what this means. I pulled the distributor cap and took some pictures of it and the rotor - Can anyone tell me if this is normal wear? there is almost no metal sticking out of the Rotor. The car continues to idle extremely rough, with occasional revups the car does on its own. Any throttle makes it run even worse or die, but immediately after I let off the throttle the rpm actually goes up for a split second. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peat Posted December 11, 2022 Report Share Posted December 11, 2022 Try pulling the rotor off and looking closely at the insulating material that is on the back. I took a picture of mine and uploaded it.  Theres a tiny hole near bottom of pic,  impossible to see when the rotor is attached, and also what looks to be a weakened area up to the left. Majority of the spark was probably shorting straight to the camshaft. Cleaning up and installing the  old rotor and cap fixed the rough idle, fouled plugs and all the ugliness. Bad quality control, inferior aftermarket parts. A mechanic friend that works on  older BMW and Daimler cars says it’s gotten much  harder to find good aftermarket parts in the last few years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRDT Posted December 11, 2022 Report Share Posted December 11, 2022 It looks worn to me but I've never seen a new one from Ducellier. I replaced mine with a Facet and as far as I can remember the rotor looked similar to the one Peat is showing. Some rotors have epoxy in this recess but i can't remember if it was the case for mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peat Posted December 11, 2022 Report Share Posted December 11, 2022 That faulty rotor of mine was probably a copy/knockoff of a Facet. Clearly seen in the pics  real Facet on left, faulty no name on the right. Facet has epoxy in center area, no name’s has the same plastic material in the center as the rest of the rotor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRDT Posted December 11, 2022 Report Share Posted December 11, 2022 I checked my old rotor that should be a Ducellier and there is no epoxy but I don't think it's made with the same material than the Facet or the no name. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goce Posted December 12, 2022 Report Share Posted December 12, 2022 My Mi16 used to burn the graphite finger inside the cap. Very often until i finally found a good quality graphite from a renault cap, also i've run non oem distributor caps and rotors they work just fine. That rotor looks burn thru, have you tested it with a lighter sparker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.