pug505usa Posted December 2, 2014 Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 On my way to work I heard a rattling noise this morning... it turned out the bearing on the roller tensioner for the water pump belt is totally gone... when I removed it the roller was totally loose from the bracket with the bearing worn and gone... Where can I find a replacement? Anyone has this part for sale? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted December 2, 2014 Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 Pretty sure that's a very common bearing... http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/2085-water-pump-tensioner/ Trouble will be getting that outer race out though. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 okay, so the part number for that bearing is 5752.02. on the western hemisphere site, they are out of this bearing but they list "BB6202" as a replacement (also out of stock). from many hours spent on the WH site, i can tell you that this is an equivalent part number. i checked on peugeot-l and there's a bit of discussion about this, several threads say that you can go into any automotive parts place and get a standard 6202 bearing and it will work in this application. one thread says that you need a 202 bearing, single-side seal (apparently they come in plain, single-side seal and double-side seal). so i don't know if the "6" in the part number specifies the type of seal or what, but this should give you something to go on... andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Nice work Andre! 6202 is a VERY common trailer wheel bearing so you can likely find them anywhere automotive, and likely even trailer or gas stations will have them. I stopped at the 5702 number as I figured it'd easy to cross reference. Good reminder as Mike Aube suggests changing them after a TD has sat for any length of time, so I'll be doing them in my TD once I'm in progress getting it prepped for plating it. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pug505usa Posted December 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Thank you guys very much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pug505usa Posted December 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 Bearing 6202 is indeed the one! Thanks again guys! $12 bucks at Autozone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted December 6, 2014 Report Share Posted December 6, 2014 If the bearing was name brand (SKF, NTN, Timken, ??) then it's as good as OEM, If it's a cheap low end one it'll work but keep an eye on it as longevity may be a concern. One of the things I love about older cars is the serviceability of components - simple cheap bearing replacement instead of having to replace expensive complete assembly. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted December 11, 2014 Report Share Posted December 11, 2014 I used this one in mine http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045DWEFW/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pug505usa Posted December 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2014 National is the brand... it is also the same one used for the alternator pulley... the reason I think they go bad I think is because they are exposed in the back welcoming any dust... I was about to buys a spare I guess I will purchase a Timken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted December 11, 2014 Report Share Posted December 11, 2014 They should be sealed on both sides. If not, it's the wrong bearing. Usually the part number specifies the seal configuration. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted December 27, 2014 Report Share Posted December 27, 2014 They should be sealed on both sides. If not, it's the wrong bearing. The factory originals are only sealed in the front. They are open inside, so while you might want to use one sealed on both sides, it's not the wrong bearing just because it's sealed on both sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted December 27, 2014 Report Share Posted December 27, 2014 Having never looked at one - if there is no way for dirt/dust to find their way in, or for grease to come out when hot - then your absolutely right Dave. If either is possible however - To me that sounds like a design flaw that would be easily fixed with a bearing sealed on both sides. In this case - I would still argue it's the "wrong" bearing just because a better option exists. They're a known weak point, so it might be a very easy change that makes a significant improvement in longevity... Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted December 27, 2014 Report Share Posted December 27, 2014 I've only changed them once. I removed the inner seal, and packed them with wheel bearing grease. I don't see how contaminants would get in the back but apparently from the frequency that some people report them failing it must do so somehow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted December 27, 2014 Report Share Posted December 27, 2014 A good comparison would be the Subaru t-belt tensioners inside the timing covers still uses sealed on both side bearings. (They were also serviceable on older cars - $13 bearing and it was new again) Dust is the usual culprit, but the bigger issue is that with temperature the grease will liquify and if they aren't sealed the grease leaks out and the bearing goes dry much quicker. I'll be doing mine this summer so I'll be able to see it first hand, but from the picture I think a seal on the both sides is a must. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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