2pac Posted February 21, 2014 Report Share Posted February 21, 2014 Hello I bought for spares a 85 505 with a factory a/c. My driving 505 has an after market a/c, where the heater block is smaller and the air duct from the blower motor is thinner, and the air flow is insufficient. Is it possible to install the factory a/c block in the non a/c car? And how do i remove it? Does it comes out from inside the car? Do i need to remove the dash or only the lower parts? Any tips will be appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted February 21, 2014 Report Share Posted February 21, 2014 the blower motor is actually in the engine compartment on the firewall; the heater block is inside the dash -- pretty sure you will have to remove the dash to get it out, but that's not terribly difficult (i replaced my cracked dash with a good used one not too long ago). the ecu for the a/c goes under the dash beneath the glove compartment, no need to remove the dash to get to that one. joe g. from the peugeot-l group wrote a basic explanation of how the 505 factory a/c works, it's here. there is also a hvac manual for the 505 floating around, i have a hard copy of it...i will see if i have a scanned copy to post. an electrical manual for your car would probably be helpful as well. you would do well to make sure that you understand how everything is hooked up in your donor car before you start pulling parts out! andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahing6 Posted February 22, 2014 Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 Hi 2pac i have done this A/C transfer also in the past, with older style dash which is not so difficult to remove. What year model 505s do you have? Not sure what you meant by 'A/C heater block'. As the A/C evaporator is separate from the heater matrix/block. As Andre say's the blower and also the evaporator is in the engine compartment on firewall. 2 ways can do this....the full take apart dash ,blower, air vent box with heater matrix/block, evaporator box, and throughly wash it out or disconnect hoses, remove A/C evaporator box cover in engine compartment and remove evaporator from box and thermostat coil tube. Maybe you will find a pile of leaves & twigs in there causing insufficient air flow. Good idea to also check blower and give fan a good washing and light oil on motor bushings. I too also have some info from a factory manual about A/C can share with you. Tip. get a cam and take pics as u remove stuff every step of the way so u can refer when time to reassemble everything. I just changed out a evaporator on my 405......trust me its lots more work than on the 505. Roger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted February 22, 2014 Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 Not sure what you meant by 'A/C heater block'. i assumed he was talking about the heater core (heater matrix) when he referred to the "heater block" andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2pac Posted February 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 they are 85 and 84. i'm talking about the entire central box, where air is distributed, with the heater core and all the flaps. i want to do that mainly because in the a/c car the air duct from the blower motor and the box which it connects to are much bigger so there must be a better air flow. in my car the air flow is lousy, probably because it's not meant to cope with the presence of the evaporator. thing is in my car there's poor access from the engine compartment, and the isolating cover only makes it worse, so unless i remove the cyl. head it can only be done from inside the car, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahing6 Posted February 28, 2014 Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 Hi 2pac any luck with a/c evap transfer? Here are some pics of removal steps ...no fear it can be done with engine head in place. A bit tricky to get at lower 7 0r 6mm bolts holding evap box cover. This page shows evap box off firewall only to illustrate removal of thermostat coil. I installed evap box onto a STi i had with the 2.0 Dourvin engine which is only 12 degree tilt! Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2pac Posted February 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 hi ahing6, i didn't get to it yet. thx for the pics, i think they will help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2pac Posted March 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 is it possible to replace only the evaporator housing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahing6 Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 Yes the evaporator housing (box) can be replaced. There are 4 studs that pass through firewall and are fastened on inside by 4x10mm nuts. Here's a pic of 4 studs on housing/box. You will have to remove the glove box and plastic facia panels from around & under steering column area to gain access to upper 2x10mm nuts. Then prepare to contort your arms & body and remove nuts with spanner. Lucky if they easy to finger off or else be prepared to quarter turn with spanner for 5min especially the one on upper on drivers side. The lower 2 offer bit more room to work around. Here is link when my dash was out can get idea of where studs will be at. http://www.505turbo.com/forum/uploads/post-467-1223343455.jpg What's reason for removing evap housing rather than just the cover and pulling out after market evap? Pic of cover off housing. Held on by 8mm bolts The angle of housing cover will be different because it's suited to RHD as to your LHD set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2pac Posted March 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 because in the factory a/c car the housing is larger and the air duct from the blower is wider than in after market a/c car, which i believe is meant to compensate for the restriction of air caused by the evaporator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2pac Posted June 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2014 Well job is done. My dilemma now is which way round to connect the 2 wires to the thermostat. Is it matter? There are no marks of L and 0 on it, but three numbers. Thx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2pac Posted June 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2014 The photo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 Which thermostat are you talking about? Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2pac Posted June 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 the one on top of the housing, which has a string stuck in the fins of the evaporator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 My guess is that it doesn't matter as it's likely just a resistance type temp sensor. With the same color wires - it usually means there's no difference. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahing6 Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 Hey 2Pac see you finally got evaporator installed. As Bean said it doesn't really matter because it's just an on/off switch with a copper tube (string) filled with mercury. If u have spare one out put block ice on copper coil and observe swith clicking on/off. Here are some pics of what's on my car. You can see single brown wire134 from dash a/c switch and other pin splits into 135, 135A for compressor, diode, idle step up solenoid. Here is wiring diagram Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2pac Posted June 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 thx ahing6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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