webmaster Posted July 1, 2005 Report Share Posted July 1, 2005 You guys should probably tear into the system and check everything-- here are some things to remember... The HVAC ECU uses input from: ----------------------------- Heater core temp sensor Outside air temp sensor Cabin temp sensor Evaporator temp sensor Air flow pressure sensor Selected temperature Selected "vents" Position of the "ECO" button The HVAC controls: ------------------ Coolant valve position Operation of the A/C compressor clutch The 505's automatic climate control system is a very nice thing when it works correctly. Since there are many aspects to its operation, it is not surprising that many things are overlooked when a repair is attempted. The ECU has 2 modes regarding "vent" selection--If defrost, floor/defrost, or floor are selected, the ECU puts the A/C logic in "defog" mode--where it uses the A/C compressor primarily to lower humidity instead of temperature (like it does when in face or face/floor mode). When "ECO" is depressed, the ECU controls the environment using everything except the A/C. The default mode is A/C on ("ECO" button released) because the operation of the A/C is meant to be seamless-- integrated into the climate control regardless of season. In the end, it is the ECU's goal to use the coolant and the A/C as little as possible. It relies a lot on its perception of the outside air temperature. ----- Assuming your coolant level is full and your thermostat is operating (engine reaches operating temp)... The coolant valve is a spring loaded "normally closed" contraption. It always recieves a +12V supply, the ECU controls the ground circuit. If no current is applied to it, sufficient coolant pressure acts on the diaphragm and coolant begins to flow through the heater core. If the ECU grounds the valve, a solenoid more-or-less reinforces the spring and coolant pressure will not be able to open the diaphragm-- no coolant flows. You might also want to check the hose orientation. The valve's bottom connection is the inlet, the upper connection is the outlet. ----- To control the operation of the heater, the ECU probably relies most on the selected temp, heater core temp sensor, the outside temp sensor, and the cabin temp sensor. If any one of these is not mounted correctly -or- their wiring is screwy, the heater will likely malfunction. The temperature selector is a collection of 28 resistors (331 ohms each) and is best described as a "stepped attenuator". The bottom most temp selection will effectively disable the ECU's control over the coolant valve--the ECU will provide a steady ground for the valve (no coolant flow). The top most temp selection will effectively disable the ECU's control over the A/C compressor clutch--under no circumstances will the A/C clutch be engaged (similar to depressing the "ECO" button). First I would check to make sure the temp selector is working correctly. There are 2 main connectors on the HVAC "head" (the part on the dash). We'll be checking pins 4, 5, and 6 on the 6-pin connector. - Resistance at pins 4 and 6 should be around ~9.6 kohms. - Resistance at pins 4 and 5 should be "open" or atleast very high when the temp slider is all the way down. - The resistance should be very low--only a few ohms (or ~331 at the most) when the slider is all the way up. - Check the intermediate settings--you should see the resistance vary in a nice stead manner (in ~331 ohm steps). ----- All the temp sensors for the HVAC system should be ~10 kohms at ~75- 80 degrees F. And they should be mounted securely--with wiring in tact. The heater core sensor is clipped to the inside of the air distribution housing near the heater core--it is referred to as a fast-acting sensor. If the sensor falls in or is contacting the heater core, it might explain a few things. The outside air temp sensor can be seen if you remove the cowl and look down at the air intake. If it is contacting something hot (somehow) the ECU would likely reduce coolant flow through the heater core and try to rely more on the outside air... The cabin temp sensor's intake is located on the dash just above the glove box. This little vent leads down to a small air horn/venturi. A pressure drop is created and cabin air is drawn in. This is referred to as a slow-acting sensor. The evaporator sensor is mounted in the evaporator's fins. This sensor's output would be used primarily during heavy A/C usage. ----- Hypothetical situation-- You select a warm temperature, press the button with the big RED arrow (floor vent), and turn the blower up. Why? Because you're freakin cold! The engine is at operating temp. The HVAC ECU sees the cabin temp is "freakin cold" and so is the outside air temp. The ECU says "Looks like I'll have to use the heat from the coolant to warm things up". It opens the ground to the coolant valve, and coolant flows through the heater core. Your heater core temp sensor's output is unusually high because it's making direct contact with the heater core or it's getting sprayed with hot coolant... In response, the HVAC ECU says "WOW that heater core sure is a whole lot hotter than it should be... I think I'll reduce coolant flow to it to better regulate the temp in the cabin." The air from the vents starts to cool off, but the ECU is not aware of the air temp at the vents. To determine cabin temp, it uses the cabin temp air sensor--which is a slow reacting sensor. At first the cold air from the vents, while uncomfortable, is not really affecting the actual cabin temp too much. Finally however, the cabin temp begins to drop and the slow reacting cabin temp sensor finally catches up. The ECU says "Holy S@$#, it cooled off in there a whole lot! And the heater core temp is a little low now--let me open up that coolant valve again to warm things up"... Suddenly the air temp from the vents shoots up again. The cycle repeats itself--heat, no heat, heat, no heat... ----- I'm not saying this is happening on your car exactly--I'm just trying to exemplify how the system might react to such a fault. -Joe G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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