WilsonRylan Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 my car has a been running rough for a while now. At first start i have to hold the throttle for about 3-5 mins unitl it warms up, or it will just idle around 500 for a couple seconds and die. The weirdest part about all this is that, this all started after i tried to raplace the bulb in my clock on my dash, went to put it back in and it shorted, sparked like crazy and smoked. after that is when the vehicle started acting up. it almost feels like its missing or not getting complete combustion. sounds crazy i know, but is that possible that a shorted light bulb connector could do that much damage? Also is the adjustable screw the hits a strike plate connected to the throttle linkage on the opositte side of the intake the idle adjustment? What about the copper looking plug on the same side of the throttle linkage? air/fuel mixture? I have attached pictures as well. I also wanted to know what the black box sitting below and in between the overflow tank and brake fluid reservor is and does. Its got too plastic tubes running into it, one is from the intake just below the air filter box and is black, the other is yellow and runs into the firewall on the passenger side you can see the tubes in the back of these pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 The idle screw is on the throttle side, and it's accessible via the hole in the throttle cam. If the plug is still there you can remove it, and then adjust the screw - but fix the problem first. The shorted wires need to be followed back to ensure there are no burned wires in the wiring bundle. When a wire shorts out like that it gets wicked hot and the copper wire melts through the plastic insulation and it can melt into other wires shorting other wires out. First thing is to make sure the wiring is OK. Once that's done - you need to make sure that screw that engages that metal tab is set properly - that tab is on an electrical switch that's tells the ECU that the throttle is in the idle position. When the throttle closes that screw should just touch the tab enough to hear it click - but you should have a ohm meter on the two pins in the connector to make sure it's working. If that switch isn't working that can be your issue as the engine will behave like you describe if the switch isn't set right, and the ECU isn't getting the right signal. (Or the wiring is fired and the signal can't get to the ECU) Once you verify the switch is functional, you should probably use the TPS adjustment procedure to set up the TPS. I went YEARS without paying this much heed as my cars ran good - but does it ever make a huge difference when the TPS is set properly according to spec. http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/316-505-turbo-tps-re-adjustment-procedure/ The part you refer to - can you post a pic of it? If it looks like about the size of a can - I do believe that's the charcoal canister for the fuel system. The yellow hard plastic line goes back to the fuel tank. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WilsonRylan Posted January 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 Thanks Rabin, I checked that switch and its working, adjusted it just enough for it to click, but my car idles so low it dies sometimes. I know this is dumb question but what and where is the TPS located? Also i noticed theres a vacum line missing from what i believe is the fuel pressue regulator, what vacum line is supposed to connect to that ? Do you know the vacum routing for this or a link to a diagram? Hear are some pictures. I appreciate all your help as usual. who ever had this car before me I think just started taking things about or something just for the hell of it. haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted January 17, 2014 Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 Vacuum leak will definitely cause those running issues, and not having the regulator plugged in means the fuel pressure won't rise with boost - so the car could lean out under boost. I'll try to get out to my garage to find out which vacuum connects to it, but it should be easy enough to find. Just locate all the vacuum ports on the intake manifold and make sure they're all connected to something. Any open hoses are a vacuum leak and the engine will idle like crap. With an old engine like this - I HIGHLY recommend getting new vacuum lines and replacing all the ones you can find - especially on the turbo to wastegate. Silicone lines are nice, but even brand new rubber is a huge improvement and it lasts a long time. I've tried silicone and while it's nice, I find it tears easy. Rubber lines are just as good if not better, and it's way cheaper. (I used fuel line for the boost lines as it's reinforced - so little to no expansion under boost.) TPS sensor is on the throttle shaft same side as the switch and has three wires going to it. Once you have all the vacuum lines sorted I think you should be fine, but still do the TPS adjustment to make sure it's set properly. And that part is the charcoal filter for the fuel system... Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WilsonRylan Posted January 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 These are the pictures i took today, one is of the vacum lines. The other is what i believe your talking about is the TPS. correct me if im wrong though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted January 18, 2014 Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 In the first picture - the top most line that is short and looks to be joined to a thicker fuel line - where does that go? I'm pretty sure that short line goes to the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) so not sure what its connected too. Did you change that? Because in the first picture its not hooked up like that? I assume there's a boost gauge plugged in there as well with that white plastic line? Guessing you just installed that as well as its not in the first picture? And yes - that black plastic part has two hex head screws in slotted holes. It takes some trial and error to get the voltage reading exactly right - bit its worth the effort. Did you find any vacuum leaks? Also look for split rubber tubing at connections, if the rubber is cracked cut off the end and refit or replace the whole line with new vacuum line. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WilsonRylan Posted January 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 If your refering too the very short line at the back that connects to a plastic tee, with the plastic white line. it runs to my vac/boost gauge. If your refering to the front line that runs into a thicker line, that runs too my BOV. Both I installed. If you look at the first picture a couple replies back youll notice a vacum line running to the cruise control diaphram, the guy before me must have taken it apart so i just plugged that line. Do you think the first line i ran to my BOV could be the FPR vacum line? I checked for vacum leaks but didnt notice any, a couple of lines were cracked at the tees, so i cut them and put them back on. when the car is warm and at idle the gauge i installed says its reading around 15 vac in. HG, when i accelerate and let off or are coasting down a hill it drops down to about 20 in. HG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted January 19, 2014 Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 The line you ran to the BOV is the FPR line - it routes through the hole in between 2 and 3 intake runners and direct to the FPR. I wouldn't splice that one as the FPR should respond ASAP when the engine is on boost. The other one you can splice into, but I'd look at getting a distribution tree rather than using a bunch of T's. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WilsonRylan Posted January 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 Got it, I dont think that vacum line was ever hooked up to FPR cause i know i wouldnt have removed it from there. I wont splice anything into that line, and your right, ill run up too oreiilys and get a tree for the other vacum line. I ran the TPS test and at closed throttle it was reading 2.3 at open throttle about 9.8. Sound about right to you? Oh and that brass cam you were talking about to adjust the throttle I took it out and it doesnt look like it would adjust the throttle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted January 19, 2014 Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 The TPS test says nothing about the range - it's setting the base voltage when the throttle is in the idle position - follow the directions to the link and post what voltage you had to set it at: TPS adjustment is a long and annoying process. You need to obtain some alligator test leads from RadioShack. The adjustment is performed with the engine off and the TPS disconnected. BTW unless the TPS is *grossly* out of adjustment, the engine will likely idle and handle light-part load just fine. It is unlikely that your problem can be fixed by just adjusting the TPS.- First measure the battery voltage- Multiply this number by 0.166- Remember this number--this is going to be the TPS adjustment voltage, we'll call it "X"- Using the test leads, connect the battery across the resistor portion of TPS. The orange wire goes to (+) and the black wire goes to (-). Use an inline circuit breaker or fuse- Connect the (+) probe of the DVOM to the green wire (wiper)- Connect the (-) probe to the negative battery terminal- Test this setup by watching the meter. With a closed throttle it should be around 2 volts. Open the throttle all the way and it should read almost battery voltage- Loosen the two 3mm screws on the TPS a little and adjust until the reading on the meter is "X"- Carefully and equally tighten the screws--keep an eye on the meter because the adjustment will likely drift as you torque the TPS down. This is annoying part of the procedure Inside that cap should be a flat head / slotted screw head. Turning it should increase or decrease the idle - but I still think you either have a vacuum problem, or the wiring issue you had caused a possible short some where. Does unplugging the contact switch on the throttle body do anything? If that switch isn't working as it should - my cars do the same thing you describe. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stewart Posted January 21, 2014 Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 Right I've got that. Where does the Turbo Flux Encabulator fit in with the adjustment of the Tension to the TPS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted January 21, 2014 Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 LOL - its been years since I've seen that video and its just as funny every time I see it! Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 here's a later version of that same video, also classic http://youtu.be/X22YZ2BPi0w andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.