WilsonRylan

Damn man, I was hoping it wouldnt come to that. you dont think sealeant will limp it along for a awhile longer? I wish i didnt have to move from my house with a garage and driveway to an apartment in a week otherwise id tear it down, I guess Its time to call the salvage yard

Tell me about it man, I loved that car and I just got in my intercooler piping friday, So i was planning on routing that this weekend. As far as the car goes,I guess I shoudnt have posted that the head gasket is bad, because im not entirely sure thats the case. All i know is I left work about 20 miles to my house. About 5 minutes i get onto the freeway the temp gauge jumps up to red, the STOP warning light comes on the dash and its no longer blowing hot air in the cab popped the hood the top Rad hose is hot but the bottom to the water pump is coldi mean not even warm. I pull into the 7-eleven and the radiator is empty, also once i jump on the freeway thick white smoke from tailpipe; steam from my radiator since the wasnt any antifreeze, i was running just straight water. , which made me think head gasket. Makes sense right? Anyways I limp it home do a quick visual dont see any external cracks, however the intake hose to the turbo and the everything else against that side had a shine on it, like oily water. Im no longer thinking it is the head gasket though, I went up and bought a bottle of blue devil head gasket and block sealer.. I know, I know that stuff is frowned upon, but I cant pull the head now, since im moving from house with a garage and driveway to an apartment in about a week. Anyways back to the additive, thermostat works, water pump is good. I flushe the system with cleaner, I followed directions add sealer and top off with water, went to start but it wouldnt just kept cranking, also sometimes it would be have a hard time cranking like i was getting vaporlock. Thats when I notice that all the water plus the $60 additive is leaking out, but its leaking out of the exhaust pipe in the middle of the exhaust system (where my cat used to be) theres a small exhaust leak I missed when i welded in the pipe to replace the cat, thats where all the water was leaking from. I drained the oil (chocolate milk colored) and i could see rainbow in the water in the radiator too. Last night I pulled all the plugs, took off the heat shield and the #1, 2, 3,and 4 were wet, # I and #2 however had oily watery sludge on the points. Three and four didnt have this but were not as wet, which would explain why i couldnt start it. My thinking today was to pull all hoses drain the whole system of water, clean plugs and get a bottle of dye. since there isnt any water to disrupt spark, start the car add dye and see if that will show me where there is a crack. Or repeat same process start car empty then add sealer. What are your thoughts? Im leaning more towards a crack in the water jacket or cylinder, I mean how else would 2 gallons go straight through my exhaust and all of it only leak through there? And the crack be it the block, head, cylinder or cylinders external or internal be leaking puting so much water into my cylinder that i cant even start it now? Thoughts? questions? concerns? I know I went into alot of detail on this but I wanted to make sure you had a good understanding of whats going on with it. Anything of your expert know how of peugeots would be greatly appreciated, because if i can find the leak or crack soon im fixing it right so i can keep on rockin the good ole 505. Thanks Rabin. by the way you can also reach me at [email protected] or by phone at 1-253-273-0027. Thanks again for always responding to when I need help with something. If you ever get anything ford (especially 79-96 cars, trucks and most especially broncos or anything VW especially marK 1's, Im your man. haha

Hey guys, I hate to have to do this. But i wanted to give you all the first oppurtunity to buy my 85. Let me clear though head gasket is blown, would make an awesome extra parts car too have. price negotiable. best way to reach me is through my email at [email protected]. Thanks fellows. I really hate it has to come to this.

Got it, I dont think that vacum line was ever hooked up to FPR cause i know i wouldnt have removed it from there. I wont splice anything into that line, and your right, ill run up too oreiilys and get a tree for the other vacum line. I ran the TPS test and at closed throttle it was reading 2.3 at open throttle about 9.8. Sound about right to you? Oh and that brass cam you were talking about to adjust the throttle I took it out and it doesnt look like it would adjust the throttle.

If your refering too the very short line at the back that connects to a plastic tee, with the plastic white line. it runs to my vac/boost gauge. If your refering to the front line that runs into a thicker line, that runs too my BOV. Both I installed. If you look at the first picture a couple replies back youll notice a vacum line running to the cruise control diaphram, the guy before me must have taken it apart so i just plugged that line. Do you think the first line i ran to my BOV could be the FPR vacum line? I checked for vacum leaks but didnt notice any, a couple of lines were cracked at the tees, so i cut them and put them back on. when the car is warm and at idle the gauge i installed says its reading around 15 vac in. HG, when i accelerate and let off or are coasting down a hill it drops down to about 20 in. HG.

These are the pictures i took today, one is of the vacum lines. The other is what i believe your talking about is the TPS. correct me if im wrong though.

Thanks Rabin, I checked that switch and its working, adjusted it just enough for it to click, but my car idles so low it dies sometimes. I know this is dumb question but what and where is the TPS located? Also i noticed theres a vacum line missing from what i believe is the fuel pressue regulator, what vacum line is supposed to connect to that ? Do you know the vacum routing for this or a link to a diagram? Hear are some pictures. I appreciate all your help as usual. who ever had this car before me I think just started taking things about or something just for the hell of it. haha

my car has a been running rough for a while now. At first start i have to hold the throttle for about 3-5 mins unitl it warms up, or it will just idle around 500 for a couple seconds and die. The weirdest part about all this is that, this all started after i tried to raplace the bulb in my clock on my dash, went to put it back in and it shorted, sparked like crazy and smoked. after that is when the vehicle started acting up. it almost feels like its missing or not getting complete combustion. sounds crazy i know, but is that possible that a shorted light bulb connector could do that much damage? Also is the adjustable screw the hits a strike plate connected to the throttle linkage on the opositte side of the intake the idle adjustment? What about the copper looking plug on the same side of the throttle linkage? air/fuel mixture? I have attached pictures as well. I also wanted to know what the black box sitting below and in between the overflow tank and brake fluid reservor is and does. Its got too plastic tubes running into it, one is from the intake just below the air filter box and is black, the other is yellow and runs into the firewall on the passenger side you can see the tubes in the back of these pictures

yea, I mean not having a valve isnt bad at all really, its staying around the 40 and only getting colder so im not worried, and if i keep the blower all the way down i dont get hot at all. Rabin- I dont see any way of fixing the valve, at least on mine you cant take it apart.

What if I were too just hook up both hoses to the heater core, without the control valve, I know i would have heat all the time even without the fan swith on, but its winter so i wouldnt mind. Any down falls to doing this?

or im thinking the other options are to get a replacment cable heater control valve from autozone with two nipples, use a flange from the hardware store with a nipple to connect to the heater box, run hose off of that to the control valve and plug the hose from the firewall into the other side of the control valve.. Also what if i just connected the two heater hoses to each other and bypassed the heater core altogether, i know i wouldnt have heat but it would keep me running in the mean time i suppose.

Does anyone know of a heater control valve that would fit my 85 turbo, from another vehicle? So i could pick up the part at my local auto parts store.

can anyone tell me what kind of oil and how much it holds for the transmission in my 5-speed 85 505 turbo. thanks guys

Hey guys, does anyone know where i can find a replacement tailight circuit board, mine broke replaceing a bulb, I was able to jerry rig the wires to the different bulbs but now my tailights stay on all the time and i have no brake lights. Also after i i did all that when i turn my headlights on the car stays running even with the ignition turn off and the key out, until i turned off the headlights,Its driving my nuts. any help is as always much appreciated. Thanks guys

dude this thing will not come out, i cant understand why ive rocked it back and forth put a jack undo it ive even used ratchet straps to try to pull it apart

Ive got the transmission all unbolted and its pulled away from the block about an inch but it just wont go any farther, i did take out the bolt to the starter that goes into the bell housing but not the other bolt to take the starter completly out, if the starter isnt out could that hang up the transmission from coming out completly?

Ok ive unbolted and disconected everything possible, the drive shaft the bell housing but i the tranny doesnt want to seem to pull away from the engine, am i missing something its like its stuck, i cant seem to drop it out, any suggestions

thanks alot Rabin, im gonna start on it today, to get it apart that way i can at leaset look inside to see whats goin on. yea im definetly not goin to junk the car over a clutch, it runs too good and i almost got my intercooler plumbed up. any help is greatlly appreciated my friend

Yea it doesnt look like its bendning and i cant see any cracksthe clutch fork was moving about 1 1/2'', on that note i can tack it all about, itll be tough though since i dont have a lift or a pit to work with, just car ramps

yea i had my dad push on the clutch pedal while i was underneath the the rod that operates the clutch fork is moving out and back in, so i guess im gonna have to take the bell housing apart then?

OK so now the squeeling stopped and when you push the clutch pedal now it goes down to the floor with no resistence until about a 1/2 in that bottom it gets a little harder but i cant shift into gear even with it depress all the way down, when the car is off though i cant shift in and out of gears fairly easy

OK the brake fluid is full, the pedal does go all the way to the floor but is really hard to push it that far, the shifter is sloppy in gears. I started it with it in first and the car lurched foreward, then started it again with it in 1st and clutch depressed down and it still lurched forward. But know with the shifter in neutral, i tryed to push the clutch in an i cant get into any gears. also its making a really loud squeeling sound when the clutch pedal isnt pushed in, when you push the pedal in it stops, let it out and it starts squeeling again, the clutch pedal goes down easy for about 2 in then just gets really hard to push it in the rest of the way.

OK guys, for the past couple weeks its been getting harder and harder to shift gears. Yesterday i slowed down to turn out of my neighborhood when i pushed the clutch pedal in it went down about 2 inches and then got really hard and i couldnt shift into any gears, If i push the clutch pedal down and try to shift into first the car will start moving but really slowly. Does anyone know if my clutch is mechanical or hydraulic in my 85 505 turbo. any help is much appreciated. OH i almost forgot got my intercooler all mounted up in the front just gotta plumb it! Rylan

This helps alot i was gonna mount it in the front to bottom left of the passenger, but looks like i could do it just in front, my IC is 3 in thick by 15 in tall and at the top width its 12 inchs and then tapers down

Im thinkin fronts the way to go ill have to cut the bumber to get it up off the ground and the run piping im sure i could make it fit what size piping should i use? i was thinking 2in but if i could run smaller it be easier to plumb it.